How to Overwinter Begonia Plants for Next Year

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Identifying Your Begonia Type
3. Overwintering Tuberous Begonias
4. Overwintering Wax, Cane, and Rex Begonias
5. Winter Care and Monitoring
6. Waking Up Begonias in the Spring
7. Simple Steps for Overwintering Success
8. Troubleshooting Common Winter Issues
9. Conclusion
10. FAQ

Introduction

The lush, vibrant blooms of begonias are often the highlight of a summer garden. Whether you have trailing begonias cascading from hanging baskets like Begonia Hanging Golden Balcony or upright varieties tucked into shaded garden beds, their continuous color is hard to beat. At Longfield Gardens, we believe that the joy of these plants shouldn't have to end when the first frost arrives. Learning how to overwinter begonia plants is a simple and rewarding way to keep your favorite varieties for another season.

This guide is designed for home gardeners who want to save their begonias instead of buying new ones every spring. We will cover how to identify which type of begonia you have, the specific steps for storing tubers, and how to keep non-tuberous varieties growing as houseplants through the winter. By taking a few easy steps now, you can enjoy even larger and more impressive displays next year. Saving your begonias is a straightforward process that rewards your effort with a head start on the next growing season.

Identifying Your Begonia Type

Before you start preparing for winter, you must know which type of begonia you are growing. Different begonias have different winter needs. Some require a period of complete rest, while others can stay green and active all year long. Identifying your plant correctly ensures you give it the right care to survive the cold months. If you need help sorting them out, Types of Begonias is a helpful overview.

Tuberous Begonias

Tuberous begonias are famous for their large, rose-like flowers. They grow from a thick, fleshy root called a tuber, which looks like a dark, flattened brown bulb or a lumpy potato. These begonias are deciduous, meaning they naturally want to go dormant in the winter. Varieties like the "Non-Stop" or "Illumination" series fall into this category. For more rose-like options, browse Upright Double Begonias. If your begonia has spectacular, large blooms and the foliage begins to yellow as the days get shorter, it is likely a tuberous type.

Fibrous-Rooted and Wax Begonias

Wax begonias are the classic bedding plants often used in garden borders. They have smaller, succulent-looking leaves that are either green or bronze and clusters of small flowers. Unlike tuberous types, these have a mass of thin, fibrous roots. They do not go dormant and are often treated as annuals, but they can be brought indoors to live as houseplants. For a broader overview, see All About Begonias.

Cane and Rex Begonias

Cane begonias, such as the popular "Dragon Wing" or angel-wing type varieties, have upright, segmented stems that resemble bamboo. Rex begonias are grown primarily for their stunning, colorful foliage rather than their flowers. Both of these types have fibrous or rhizomatous roots and do not require a dormant period. They are excellent candidates for overwintering on a sunny windowsill.

Key Takeaway: Successful overwintering starts with identification. Tuberous begonias need a dry, dormant rest, while wax, cane, and Rex begonias need to stay active as houseplants.

Overwintering Tuberous Begonias

Tuberous begonias are among the most popular plants to save because the tubers actually grow larger each year. A larger tuber translates to a more vigorous plant with more flowers next summer. The goal with these plants is to mimic their natural cycle by letting them go to sleep for the winter.

Step 1: Initiating Dormancy

In late summer or early fall, you should start preparing the plant for its rest. Stop fertilizing in late August to signal that the growing season is winding down. As the temperatures cool, reduce the amount of water you provide. You want the soil to be on the drier side, which encourages the plant to move its energy from the leaves down into the tuber.

Step 2: Timing the Lift

Wait until the foliage begins to turn yellow or until the first light frost has touched the leaves. A very light frost will not hurt the tuber buried in the soil, but it will tell the plant that winter is here. Do not wait for a hard, ground-freezing freeze, as this can damage the tuber and cause it to rot later in storage.

Step 3: Digging and Cleaning

If your begonias are in the ground, use a garden fork to gently lift the entire root mass. Be very careful not to nick or bruise the tuber, as wounds can lead to fungal issues. If they are in pots, you can simply tip the pot over and gently slide the plant out.

Cut the stems back to about one or two inches above the tuber. Do not pull the stems off, as they will naturally dry and fall away during the curing process. Gently brush off the bulk of the soil with your hands, but do not wash the tubers with water. Moisture at this stage can lead to rot.

Step 4: The Curing Process

Curing is a vital step that allows the outer skin of the tuber to toughen up. Place the cleaned tubers in a dry, shaded, and well-ventilated area. An indoor spot like a garage or a basement works well, as long as it stays between 60°F and 70°F.

Leave the tubers to dry for about two weeks. During this time, the remaining stem pieces will shrivel and eventually drop off. Once the tubers feel firm and dry to the touch, they are ready for long-term storage.

Step 5: Final Storage

Once cured, place your tubers in a container that allows for some air circulation. Cardboard boxes, paper bags, or open trays are ideal. Many gardeners find success by nesting the tubers in a dry material like peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust. This helps regulate moisture and prevents the tubers from touching each other, which stops the spread of any potential rot. For more tuber-saving advice, read Tips for Growing Tuberous Begonias.

Store the container in a cool, dark, and dry place. The ideal temperature for storage is between 40°F and 50°F. A cool basement, a root cellar, or an insulated crawl space is perfect. Avoid areas that might freeze, and keep them away from heating vents.

What to Do Next:

• Stop fertilizing by late August.
• Wait for a light frost or yellowing leaves before lifting.
• Cure tubers in a dry spot for two weeks.
• Store in dry peat moss or paper bags in a cool, dark location.

Overwintering Wax, Cane, and Rex Begonias

Unlike the tuberous varieties, fibrous-rooted begonias do not have a dormant phase. To save these, you must bring them inside and treat them as houseplants. This is a wonderful way to keep your garden color alive through the snowy months.

Bringing Plants Indoors

The transition from the humid outdoors to the dry air of a heated home can be a shock to plants. It is best to bring your begonias inside before the nights drop below 50°F. This gives them time to adjust while the indoor and outdoor temperatures are still relatively similar.

Before bringing any plant inside, inspect it thoroughly for hitchhiking insects. Look under the leaves and along the stems. You can give the foliage a gentle rinse with a garden hose to knock off any dust or pests. If the plant was growing in the ground, you will need to pot it up using a high-quality, well-draining potting mix.

Light Requirements

Indoors, begonias need bright, indirect light. A south-facing window is often the best choice, provided the light is filtered by a sheer curtain to prevent leaf scorch. If you notice your plant becoming "leggy"—with long, weak stems and few leaves—it is likely not getting enough light. In these cases, a simple LED grow light can provide the extra boost they need to stay compact and healthy. For more shade-loving combinations, browse Summer Flowers for Shade.

Humidity and Watering

The biggest challenge for indoor begonias is the dry air caused by home heating systems. Begonias thrive in humidity. You can create a more favorable microclimate by placing your pots on a pebble tray. Simply fill a shallow tray with small stones and add water until it is just below the tops of the pebbles. As the water evaporates, it increases the moisture in the air directly around the plant.

Watering should be done carefully. Use the "finger test" to check the soil moisture. Stick your finger about an inch into the soil; if it feels dry, it is time to water. If it feels damp, wait a few more days. Overwatering is the most common cause of trouble for indoor begonias, so it is better to stay on the slightly dry side.

Pruning and Maintenance

It is normal for a begonia to drop a few leaves as it adjusts to its new indoor home. Don't worry—this is just the plant's way of balancing its energy. You can prune back long stems to encourage a bushier shape. Use sharp, clean scissors or snips to make cuts just above a leaf node.

Key Takeaway: Fibrous begonias should be brought inside before the first frost. Provide bright light, avoid overwatering, and use a pebble tray to maintain humidity.

Winter Care and Monitoring

Whether your begonias are sleeping in a box or growing on your windowsill, they still need a little bit of attention during the winter. A quick monthly check can prevent small issues from becoming big problems.

Checking Stored Tubers

Once a month, peek into your storage box. The tubers should feel firm and heavy for their size. If you find one that feels soft or mushy, remove it immediately so it doesn't affect the healthy ones. If the tubers look shriveled, you can very lightly mist the packing material with water, but be careful not to make it wet. The goal is just enough moisture to prevent total dehydration.

Managing Indoor Plants

For the begonias you are keeping as houseplants, remember that they grow much more slowly in the winter. Because they aren't working as hard, they don't need much food. We recommend stopping all fertilizer from November through February. Resume a light feeding schedule in early March when you see new growth starting to appear.

Keep an eye out for common indoor pests like fungus gnats or spider mites. Fungus gnats are small black flies that hover near the soil surface; they usually appear if the soil is kept too wet. Spider mites are tiny and create fine webbing on the leaves. If you see these, a gentle wipe with a damp cloth or a treatment with insecticidal soap (following the label instructions) usually clears them up.

Waking Up Begonias in the Spring

As the days grow longer and the sun feels warmer, it’s time to get your begonias ready for their return to the garden. This transition should be gradual to ensure the plants stay strong.

Starting Tubers Indoors

In March or early April, bring your stored tubers out of their cool dark spot. You may already see tiny pink or green buds starting to poke out from the concave (indented) side of the tuber.

Fill a small pot with fresh, damp potting soil. Place the tuber on the surface with the indented side facing up. Press it down slightly, but don't bury it deep—only about half an inch of soil should cover the top. Place the pots in a warm, bright spot. Do not water again until you see green stems emerging, as a tuber without roots cannot absorb much water and may rot. If you want a refresher on planting and spacing, see How Do You Plant Begonias: A Simple Step-by-Step Guide.

Transitioning Houseplants

For the begonias that spent the winter as houseplants, spring is a great time to give them a "haircut" and a fresh start. Prune back any lanky growth to encourage new, thick stems. You can also repot them into a slightly larger container if the roots have filled the current one.

Hardening Off

"Hardening off" is the process of getting plants used to the outdoor environment. Start by placing your plants outside in a sheltered, shady spot for just an hour or two during a warm day. Gradually increase their time outside over the course of 10 to 14 days.

Only move your begonias to their permanent outdoor home once the threat of frost has completely passed and the nighttime temperatures stay reliably above 50°F. Begonias are tropical at heart and love warm soil and warm air.

Simple Steps for Overwintering Success

Overwintering may seem like a lot of steps, but it really comes down to a few basic principles. If you follow these simple rules, you will find that begonias are among the most resilient plants in your collection.

• Match the method to the root: Tubers get stored dry and cool; fibrous roots stay in pots and keep growing.
• Drainage is essential: Whether in storage or in a pot, begonias hate "wet feet." Use light soil and keep storage media only slightly damp.
• Watch the thermometer: Don't let tubers freeze, and don't put plants back outside until the nights are warm.
• Be patient: Tubers can take a few weeks to wake up in the spring. As long as they are firm, they are working on growing roots beneath the surface.

Troubleshooting Common Winter Issues

Even with the best care, you might run into a few hurdles. Most begonia issues are easy to solve once you know what to look for.

Soft or Mushy Tubers

If a tuber feels soft, it has likely been exposed to too much moisture or a freeze. If only a small spot is soft, you can sometimes save the tuber by cutting out the mushy part and letting the healthy tissue dry and "callus" over. However, if the whole tuber is soft, it’s best to compost it and start fresh with a new one in the spring.

Leggy Growth on Indoor Plants

This is almost always a sign that the plant needs more light. Move it to a brighter window or bring the light source closer. You can also pinch back the growing tips of the stems with your fingernails. This redirects the plant's energy to the side buds, creating a fuller, more attractive plant.

Brown Leaf Edges

This is common in the winter and is usually caused by low humidity. While it might look a bit messy, it generally doesn't hurt the long-term health of the plant. Increase the humidity with a pebble tray or by grouping several plants together, which creates a small humid zone.

What to Do Next:

• Check stored tubers monthly for firmness.
• Prune leggy indoor plants to keep them bushy.
• Start tubers indoors 6–8 weeks before the last frost.
• Wait for warm nights before moving anything outside.

Conclusion

Overwintering your begonias is a wonderful way to connect with the cycle of the seasons. It turns a temporary summer display into a long-term part of your garden's history. At Longfield Gardens, we love seeing how these plants flourish when given the chance to grow larger and stronger year after year. Our 100% Quality Guarantee helps make that effort worthwhile. Whether you are tucking tubers away in a basement or enjoying the cheerful leaves of a Rex begonia on your kitchen windowsill, you are ensuring a more beautiful garden for the coming spring.

• Identify if your begonia is tuberous (dormant) or fibrous (houseplant).
• Store tubers in a cool, dark place in dry packing material.
• Keep indoor begonias in bright, indirect light with plenty of humidity.
• Always wait for warm weather before moving plants back outdoors.

The effort you put in now will pay off when those first warm days of spring arrive. There is a special kind of satisfaction in seeing the first pink buds emerge from a tuber you saved yourself. If you ever have questions about your plants or need a few new varieties to add to your collection, Contact Us and we are always here to help you grow your most beautiful garden yet.

"The secret to overwintering begonias is simple: respect their need for rest if they are tuberous, and provide them with light and humidity if they are not. A little bit of care in the fall leads to a spectacular show in the spring."

FAQ

Can I leave my begonias in the ground over winter?

In most parts of the United States, begonias cannot survive the winter in the ground. They are tropical plants that are very sensitive to frost. If you live in a region where the ground freezes, you must lift the tubers or bring the plants indoors to save them for next year. If you're unsure of your climate, check the Hardiness Zone Map.

How often should I water my begonias while they are indoors?

Indoor begonias should be watered only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. They prefer to stay moderately moist but never soggy. During the winter months, they grow more slowly and will require less frequent watering than they did during the summer.

Why are the leaves falling off my begonia after I brought it inside?

It is very common for begonias to drop leaves when they transition from outdoors to indoors. This is usually a reaction to the change in light levels and humidity. As long as the stems remain firm and you see new growth starting to appear, the plant is simply adjusting to its new environment.

Do I need to fertilize my begonias during the winter?

If you are storing tubers, do not fertilize them at all. For begonias kept as houseplants, it is best to stop fertilizing from late autumn through the end of winter. Wait until you see vigorous new growth in the spring before you begin a regular feeding schedule again.