Introduction
Begonias are among the most rewarding plants in the summer garden. Their lush foliage and vibrant blooms provide a tropical feel that lasts from late spring until the first chilly nights of autumn. At Longfield Gardens, we believe that the end of the growing season doesn't have to mean the end of your favorite plants. With a few simple steps, you can keep your begonias healthy and ready to shine again next year.
Bringing begonias indoors is a practical way to protect your investment and enjoy their beauty year-round. This guide is designed for home gardeners who want to understand the different methods of overwintering, whether you want to keep your plants growing as houseplants or store them as dormant tubers. We will walk you through the process of identifying your begonia type, preparing them for the move, and providing the care they need during the winter months.
Success with begonias in winter comes down to understanding what each specific variety needs to thrive. By following a clear, step-by-step approach, you can ensure your begonias survive the frost and return even stronger in the spring.
Know Your Begonia: The Key to Winter Success
Before you start moving pots or digging up tubers, you must identify which type of begonia you are growing. Not all begonias handle winter the same way. People often ask, "can begonias be brought inside for the winter?" and the answer is almost always yes—but the how depends entirely on the variety. Some are happy to continue growing on a sunny windowsill, while others require a period of complete rest. If you want a deeper overview of begonia types, see our All About Begonias guide.
Wax Begonias (Begonia semperflorens)
Wax begonias, or Begonia semperflorens, are the classic bedding plants often found in garden borders and hanging baskets. They have succulent, shiny leaves that are either green or bronze. These plants are fibrous-rooted and do not form a tuber. Because they do not have a natural dormancy period, they can be brought inside and grown as houseplants throughout the winter.
Tuberous Begonias
Tuberous begonias, such as the popular Non-Stop or Illumination series, are known for their large, rose-like flowers. These plants grow from a thick, fleshy underground structure called a tuber. Tuberous begonias must go dormant in the winter. Trying to keep them growing actively indoors all winter can exhaust the plant and lead to poor performance the following year.
Rex and Foliage Begonias
Rex begonias are grown primarily for their stunning, multi-colored leaves rather than their flowers. Like wax begonias, Rex begonias do not go dormant. They are actually very popular year-round houseplants. They enjoy high humidity and indirect light, making them perfect candidates for a decorative indoor display during the cold months. For more on light preferences, read our Where Do Begonias Grow? guide.
Rhizomatous Begonias
Rhizomatous begonias are similar to Rex types but are characterized by their thick, creeping stems (rhizomes) that grow along the soil surface. These varieties are exceptionally diverse in leaf shape and texture. Like Rex and cane types, they do not go dormant and make excellent year-round indoor companions.
Cane Begonias (Angel Wing and Dragon Wing Begonia)
Cane begonias are characterized by their tall, bamboo-like stems and wing-shaped leaves. These are tough plants that can grow quite large. The popular Dragon Wing begonia is a well-known example of this group. They do not go dormant and can be kept as active houseplants. Because they can become leggy, winter is often a great time to manage their shape with light pruning.
Your Winter Decision Tree
To simplify your begonia care, follow this logic:
- Active Houseplants: Wax (semperflorens), Rex, Rhizomatous, Cane, and Dragon Wing types.
- Dormant Storage: Tuberous types (Non-Stop, Cascading, Upright Double).
Key Takeaway: Identify your plant first. Fibrous, rhizomatous, and cane types stay active as houseplants, while tuberous types must be stored as dormant bulbs.
How to Bring Active Begonias Indoors
If you have wax, Rex, or cane-type begonias, your goal is to transition them from the outdoor garden to your indoor living space. This change in environment can be a bit of a shock to the plants, so a gradual approach works best.
The Pre-Move Sanitation Checklist
Indoor environments are often warmer and drier than the outdoors, which can make plants more susceptible to common pests. Before bringing any plant inside, we recommend following this strict sanitation checklist:
- Inspect for Hitchhikers: Thoroughly check the undersides of leaves, the leaf axils, and the stems. Look specifically for mealybugs (which look like small cottony tufts), aphids, or spider mites.
- Wash the Foliage: Give the plants a gentle spray with a garden hose to knock off dust and lingering insects. You can also wash the foliage with a mild solution of water and a few drops of dish soap.
- Prune for Health: Remove any dead, yellowing, or diseased leaves. If the plant has grown very large, feel free to prune back the top growth by about a third to make the transition easier for the root system.
- Repot if Necessary: If the begonias are planted in the ground, carefully transplant them into pots using a high-quality, soil-free potting mix. We recommend avoiding garden soil in containers, as it is too heavy and can harbor soil-borne pests. For more indoor-care ideas, see our Can Begonias Be Indoor Plants? guide.
Acclimatizing Your Plants
The light and humidity levels inside a home are significantly lower than they are in a garden. To help your begonias adjust, move them to a shaded area on a porch or patio for about a week before bringing them all the way inside. This "halfway house" step allows the plant to adapt to lower light levels gradually.
Once they are inside, place them in a spot that receives bright, indirect light. A window facing east or west is usually ideal. Avoid placing them directly in front of a south-facing window where the intense afternoon sun might scorch their leaves.
What to do next:
- Complete the sanitation checklist to prevent pest outbreaks.
- Acclimate plants in a shaded outdoor spot for 7 days.
- Position plants in bright, indirect light once moved indoors.
- Monitor for initial leaf drop, which is a normal sign of transition stress.
Overwintering Tuberous Begonias as Dormant Bulbs
Tuberous begonias require a different strategy. These plants need a "rest" period to recharge for the next blooming season. In most regions of the United States, this means lifting the tubers and storing them in a frost-free location.
Timing the Harvest
Wait for the first light frost to hit your garden. This frost will usually turn the foliage black or yellow, which is a signal to the plant that it is time to move its energy down into the tuber. Do not worry; a light frost won't hurt the tuber underground, but you should act quickly before the ground freezes hard.
Carefully dig up the tubers, being mindful not to nick or bruise them with your shovel. Leave a few inches of the stem attached for now. At this stage, the tubers will be covered in soil and may feel quite heavy.
The Curing Process
Curing is a fancy word for letting the tubers dry out so they don't rot in storage. Place the tubers in a cool, dry area out of direct sunlight. A garage or a covered porch works well. Let them sit for about two weeks. If you're deciding whether to keep them or replace them next season, our Are Begonias Indoor or Outdoor Plants? guide can help clarify the best approach.
As the tubers dry, the remaining stems will eventually wither and fall off naturally. Once the stems are gone and the soil on the tubers has dried to a powder, you can gently brush the excess dirt away. We find that a soft paintbrush is an excellent tool for cleaning the tubers without damaging their skin. To prevent fungal issues during the long winter months, some gardeners choose to lightly dust the tubers with a fungicide powder before final storage.
Ideal Storage Conditions and Monitoring
To keep the tubers healthy until spring, they need to stay cool, dark, and slightly insulated. Pack the cleaned tubers into a sturdy cardboard box or a paper bag, filling it with an insulating material like peat moss, perlite, or wood shavings. Store the container in a location that stays between 40°F and 50°F, such as a cool basement or an unheated (but frost-free) closet. If you plan to order more plants for spring, see our Shipping Information page for timing details.
It is important to check your stored tubers once a month. Look for these signs:
- Shriveling: If the tubers look very wrinkled or feel light and hollow, the environment is too dry. Lightly mist the storage medium (not the tuber directly) to add a touch of moisture.
- Mushy Spots or Mold: This indicates excess moisture and rot. Immediately remove and discard any tubers that feel soft or show fuzzy growth to prevent the rot from spreading to healthy neighbors.
Key Takeaway: For tuberous begonias, let the first frost trigger dormancy, then dry the tubers for two weeks before storing them in peat moss at 40-50°F.
Caring for Begonias as Houseplants
For the begonias that stay active all winter, your job is to mimic their preferred tropical environment as closely as possible. Proper begonia care indoors requires balancing light, temperature, and moisture while the plant is in a slower growth phase.
Managing Light and Temperature
Inside the home, begonias thrive in temperatures between 65°F and 75°F. They are sensitive to cold drafts, so keep them away from exterior doors or poorly insulated windows. Similarly, keep them away from heat vents or fireplaces, as the hot, moving air will dry out their leaves very quickly.
If your home is particularly dark during the winter, you might notice your begonias becoming "leggy," meaning they grow long, thin stems as they reach for the light. If this happens, you can provide a little extra help with a simple LED grow light. For more growing tips by exposure, see our Are Begonias Shade or Sun Plants? guide.
Water Correctly, Not Constantly
Overwatering is the most common reason begonias struggle indoors. During the winter, plants grow more slowly and use less water than they do in the summer. Always check the soil before adding water. Stick your finger about an inch into the potting mix; if it feels dry, it is time to water. If it feels moist, wait a few more days.
When you do water, do so thoroughly until water runs out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Then, let the soil dry out slightly before the next session. This "deep then dry" method encourages healthy root growth and prevents the rot that comes from sitting in soggy soil. Reduce fertilizer use during this time; a half-strength balanced fertilizer once every 6-8 weeks is usually plenty.
Boosting Humidity Without Misting
The air in a heated home can be as dry as a desert. Begonias love humidity, but we recommend avoiding direct misting of the leaves, as trapped moisture can lead to powdery mildew or other fungal diseases. Instead, create a humid microclimate by grouping your plants together or using a pebble tray.
To make a pebble tray, fill a shallow tray with small stones or pebbles and add water until it is just below the top of the stones. Place your begonia pot on top of the pebbles. As the water evaporates, it increases the moisture in the air immediately surrounding the leaves. Just make sure the bottom of the pot isn't sitting directly in the water.
What to do next:
- Position plants in bright, indirect light away from drafts.
- Only water when the top inch of soil feels dry and reduce feeding.
- Create a pebble tray to increase local humidity while avoiding leaf misting.
- Rotate the pots once a week so all sides receive equal light.
Troubleshooting Winter Begonia Problems
Even with the best care, begonias can experience stress during the winter move. Here is how to handle common issues:
- Leaf Drop: If your begonia drops a large number of leaves shortly after moving inside, it is likely adjusting to lower light levels. Move it to a slightly brighter spot and ensure it isn't in a draft.
- Powdery Mildew: This appears as white, flour-like spots on leaves. It is often caused by high humidity with poor airflow. Improve air circulation and keep foliage dry.
- Mealybugs: If you see white, waxy clusters, use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to dab the pests away.
- Leggy Growth: This is a clear sign the plant needs more light. Prune back the thin stems and move the plant closer to a window or under a grow light.
Pruning and Propagation: An Indoor Bonus
Winter is an excellent time to tidy up your begonias. If your cane or wax begonias are getting too large for their indoor space, do not be afraid to prune them back. This encourages the plant to grow fuller and bushier.
The best part about pruning is that you can use the cuttings to start brand-new plants. Begonias root very easily in either water or moist potting mix. Simply cut a stem that is 4 to 5 inches long, remove the lower leaves, and place it in a glass of water. In a few weeks, you will see white roots beginning to form. This is a wonderful way to "back up" your favorite varieties just in case the parent plant struggles.
Our team at Longfield Gardens often uses this method to expand our own collections. It is a simple, cost-effective way to turn one beautiful plant into several that you can share with friends or plant back in the garden once the weather warms up. If you want a related overview of where begonias fit in the home and garden, see How to Care for a Begonia Plant Indoors.
Transitioning Your Begonias Back Outside
When the days start getting longer and the threat of frost has passed, your begonias will be eager to get back into the fresh air. However, moving them back outside requires just as much care as bringing them in.
Waking Up Tuberous Begonias
In late February or March, start checking your stored tubers for small pink or green "eyes" or buds. This is your cue to wake them up.
- Potting: Place the tubers in small pots with fresh potting mix. The hollow side should face upward and be positioned just at or slightly below the soil surface.
- Watering: Give them a light watering to settle the soil. Wait to water again until you see active growth.
- Feeding: Once stems are a few inches tall, increase watering and start using a balanced liquid fertilizer at half-strength every two weeks.
Hardening Off All Types
Whether they are newly sprouted tubers or plants that lived as houseplants all winter, every begonia needs to be "hardened off." This process prevents shock from the sun, wind, and temperature fluctuations.
- Day 1-3: Place them outside in a fully sheltered, shady spot for 2 hours during the warmest part of the day, then bring them back in.
- Day 4-7: Gradually increase their time outside by 1-2 hours each day, moving them into very dappled light.
- Day 8-14: Continue extending their time until they are out all day.
- Final Move: Once nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F and the plants are used to the conditions, they can stay outside permanently. For a fuller beginner's overview, browse our Begonia Flower Bulbs for Sale collection.
Key Takeaway: Transition plants back outside slowly over two weeks once nighttime temperatures stay above 50°F to avoid shock.
Conclusion
Bringing begonias indoors for winter is a simple and rewarding way to extend the life of these beautiful plants. Whether you choose to keep them growing as vibrant houseplants or store them as dormant tubers, the effort you put in now will pay off with a spectacular show next summer. By identifying your plant type and following the basic rules of light, water, and humidity, you can enjoy your begonias for many years to come.
Remember these three keys to success:
- Identify whether your plant needs a dormant rest or active growth.
- Acclimatize plants slowly when moving them between environments.
- Monitor moisture levels closely to avoid overwatering or storage rot.
Gardening is a continuous cycle of learning and growth. We hope these tips help you feel confident as you prepare your garden for the change of seasons. For more inspiration and premium plants for your next project, visit us at Longfield Gardens. If you want to shop the most specific begonia styles available, start with our Hanging Begonias collection or return to Upright Double Begonias.
Success in the winter garden is about working with the plant's natural rhythm. By giving your begonias the right environment to rest or grow, you are setting the stage for a magnificent spring.
FAQ
When should I bring my begonias inside for the winter?
You should bring your begonias inside before the first hard frost. For wax and cane begonias that will stay active, it is best to move them in when nighttime temperatures start dipping into the 50s. For tuberous begonias, you can wait until the first light frost kills back the foliage before digging them up for storage. For shipping and seasonal timing, see our Shipping Information page.
Do I need to fertilize my begonias during the winter?
If your begonias are growing as houseplants, you can fertilize them occasionally, but use a much weaker solution than you would in the summer. If you have stored your tuberous begonias as dormant bulbs, they do not need any fertilizer or water until you begin to wake them up in the spring.
Why are my begonia leaves falling off after I brought the plant inside?
It is common for begonias to drop some leaves as they adjust to the lower light and humidity of your home. This is the plant's way of balancing its energy needs with the new environment. As long as you provide bright indirect light and correct watering, the plant should stabilize and eventually grow new leaves adapted to the indoor conditions. For more help matching begonia types to light, see Are Begonias Shade or Sun Plants?.
Can I store wax begonias as bare tubers like tuberous begonias?
No, wax begonias have a fibrous root system and do not form the thick tubers required for dormant storage. If you want to keep wax begonias through the winter, you must bring them inside as active plants and grow them in pots near a bright window.
