Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Identifying Your Begonia Type
- When to Bring Begonias Indoors
- Overwintering Tuberous Begonias for Dormancy
- Transitioning Rex and Wax Begonias to Houseplants
- Caring for Begonias Indoors
- Troubleshooting Common Indoor Issues
- Bringing Begonias Back Outside in Spring
- Why We Love Overwintering Begonias
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Introduction
The vibrant colors and lush textures of begonias are often the highlight of a summer garden. Whether you have the cascading blooms of a hanging basket or the metallic, swirling patterns of a Rex variety, these plants bring a tropical feel to any porch or patio. At Longfield Gardens, we believe that the end of summer doesn’t have to mean the end of your favorite plants. Bringing begonias indoors is a rewarding way to extend your gardening season and ensure your favorite varieties return year after year. If you love the trailing look, browse our hanging begonias.
This guide is designed for any gardener who wants to save their begonias from the first frost. We will cover the different methods for overwintering based on the specific type of begonia you own. You will learn how to transition them from the garden to your living room and how to store tubers so they stay healthy until spring. By following a few simple steps, you can enjoy these beautiful plants through the winter and get a head start on next year’s garden.
Identifying Your Begonia Type
Before you begin moving plants, you need to know which type of begonia you are growing. Begonias are a large family, but for most home gardeners, they fall into three main groups. Each group has a different way of handling the winter months.
Tuberous Begonias
These are famous for their large, rose-like flowers and are often found in the Nonstop or Illumination series. They grow from a thick, potato-like structure called a tuber. Tuberous begonias require a period of dormancy, or rest, during the winter. You cannot keep these growing as active houseplants all year. Instead, you will dig them up and store the tubers in a cool, dark place. For a broader look at these plants, see our All About Begonias guide.
Rex and Rhizomatous Begonias
Rex begonias are grown primarily for their stunning foliage. Their leaves come in a variety of patterns with shades of silver, purple, pink, and deep green. These plants grow from rhizomes, which are thick stems that creep along the soil surface. Rex begonias do not need a dormancy period and make excellent year-round houseplants. If you want indoor-growing details, read How Do You Care for a Begonia Plant Indoors?.
Fibrous and Wax Begonias
Wax begonias are the classic bedding plants seen in borders and pots. They have fleshy stems and waxy leaves. Like Rex begonias, these have fibrous root systems and do not go dormant. You can pot them up and keep them blooming on a sunny windowsill throughout the winter.
Key Takeaway: Always check the root system of your plant. If it has a hard, woody tuber, it needs a winter rest. If it has soft, thread-like roots, it can stay active as a houseplant.
When to Bring Begonias Indoors
Timing is everything when it comes to bringing begonias indoors. These are tropical plants that cannot tolerate freezing temperatures. The exact timing will depend on your local weather and your USDA hardiness zone. You can check your growing region with the USDA Hardiness Zone Map.
For tuberous begonias, many gardeners wait until the first light frost. A light frost will turn the leaves yellow or black, which signals to the plant that it is time to go to sleep. This cold snap encourages the plant to move its energy into the tuber. However, you must dig them up before a hard freeze, which can reach deep into the soil and damage the tuber itself.
For Rex and wax begonias, you should move them inside before the nighttime temperatures consistently drop below 50°F. If you wait too long, the sudden change from cold nights to a warm, dry house can cause the plant to drop its leaves. Moving them in while the weather is still mild helps them adjust more easily.
What to Do Next
- Monitor your local weather forecast starting in late September.
- Identify a bright spot in your home for your houseplants.
- Gather your storage supplies, such as peat moss or paper bags, for tubers.
- Check your garden containers to see which plants need to be repotted.
Overwintering Tuberous Begonias for Dormancy
Tuberous begonias, like those in our Nonstop and Picotee collections, are perennial in warm climates but need help in cooler regions. Preparing them for dormancy is a simple four-step process. If you want to shop that plant style, start with our Upright Double Begonias.
Step 1: Lifting the Tubers
Once the foliage begins to yellow or after the first light frost has touched the leaves, it is time to lift the tubers. Use a small hand trowel to gently dig around the plant. Be careful to give the tuber plenty of space so you do not accidentally nick the skin. Gently lift the plant out of the soil and shake off the excess dirt.
Step 2: Trimming and Cleaning
Cut the stems back to about one inch above the tuber. Do not pull the stems off, as this can damage the "eyes" where next year's growth will begin. If the soil is stubborn and won't shake off, you can leave it for now. It is often easier to remove once it has dried.
Step 3: The Curing Process
Curing is the most important step for preventing rot during the winter. Place your cleaned tubers in a dry, shady area with good air circulation. A garage or a covered porch works well. Let them sit for about a week to ten days. During this time, the outer skin will toughen up, and any remaining soil will dry out. Once they are dry, you can gently brush away any leftover dirt and trim away any small, hairy roots.
Step 4: Storage Conditions
Choose a storage medium that allows the tubers to breathe while keeping them from drying out completely. Many gardeners use dry peat moss, wood shavings, or even simple paper bags. Place the tubers in a single layer so they are not touching each other. This prevents a single moldy tuber from ruining the entire batch.
Store the container in a cool, dark, and dry place. The ideal temperature is between 40°F and 50°F. An unheated basement or a cool closet is usually perfect. Check on your tubers once a month. They should feel firm and heavy. If they look shriveled, you can lightly mist the storage medium with a tiny bit of water.
Key Takeaway: Curing the tubers for a week before storage is the secret to preventing rot and ensuring a healthy start in the spring.
Transitioning Rex and Wax Begonias to Houseplants
If you have Rex or wax begonias, you can enjoy their beauty all winter long. These plants do not need a rest period and will continue to grow as long as they have enough light and warmth.
Potting and Soil
If your begonias are currently in the ground, you will need to dig them up and put them in pots. Choose a container that is only slightly larger than the root ball. Begonias actually prefer to be a little bit "root-bound," meaning they like their roots to feel snug. Use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix. Drainage refers to how fast water leaves the soil; begonias hate sitting in soggy dirt, so a light mix with perlite or peat moss is best.
Checking for Pests
Before you bring any plant inside, it is vital to check for "hitchhikers." Look under the leaves and along the stems for common garden pests like aphids, mealybugs, or spider mites. A quick spray with a garden hose can often knock off most insects. For a more thorough cleaning, you can wash the leaves with a gentle mixture of water and a few drops of dish soap. We recommend doing this a few days before the move so the plant is dry and clean.
The Acclimation Period
Moving from the humid, bright outdoors to a dry, indoor environment can be stressful for a plant. To minimize shock, move your pots to a shaded area of your porch for a few days first. This helps them get used to lower light levels. Once they are inside, place them in a bright spot but away from direct heat sources like radiators or heating vents. If you want more background on seasonal timing, see our shipping information.
What to Do Next
- Select pots with drainage holes at the bottom.
- Wash the outside of the pots to keep your home clean.
- Inspect the undersides of leaves for tiny insects.
- Group your begonias together to help maintain higher humidity.
Caring for Begonias Indoors
Once your begonias are settled into their indoor home, their needs will change. The indoor environment is usually much drier and darker than the garden, so you must adjust your care routine.
Light Requirements
Indoors, begonias love bright, indirect light. An east-facing or west-facing window is usually the best location. If the light is too low, the plant will become "leggy," meaning the stems get long and thin as they reach for the sun. If you don't have a bright window, you can use a simple LED grow light to keep them happy.
Watering Correctly
Watering is where most indoor gardeners run into trouble. Because the air is cooler and there is less sun, the soil stays moist for much longer than it does outside. Always use the "finger test." Stick your finger about an inch into the soil. If it feels dry, go ahead and water. If it still feels damp, wait another day or two.
Always water the soil, not the leaves. Getting water on the foliage can lead to fungal issues like powdery mildew. Make sure the excess water can drain out of the bottom of the pot. Never let your begonia sit in a saucer of standing water, as this leads to root rot.
Boosting Humidity
Modern heating systems dry out the air in our homes, which can cause the edges of begonia leaves to turn brown and crispy. You can easily boost the humidity by using a pebble tray. Fill a shallow tray with small stones and add water until it is just below the tops of the pebbles. Set your pot on top of the stones. As the water evaporates, it creates a pocket of moist air around the plant.
Feeding and Pruning
In the winter, begonias grow very slowly. You do not need to fertilize them from November through February. When you see new growth starting in the spring, you can begin using a balanced liquid fertilizer at half-strength once a month.
If your plant starts to look a bit wild or messy, don't be afraid to prune it. Pinching off the tips of the stems will encourage the plant to grow bushier and fuller. You can even use these clippings to start new plants! For more indoor care help, visit our begonia plant indoors guide.
Troubleshooting Common Indoor Issues
Even with the best care, you might encounter a few minor setbacks. The key is to catch them early and make small adjustments.
Dropping Leaves
It is very common for a begonia to drop a few leaves right after moving inside. This is usually just the plant adjusting to the lower light. As long as the stems are firm and there is new growth at the tips, the plant will be fine. If the leaf drop continues, move the plant to a brighter spot.
Brown Leaf Edges
This is almost always a sign of low humidity. Move the plant away from any heating vents and ensure you are using a pebble tray. You can also group several plants together to create a microclimate with higher humidity.
Yellowing Leaves
Yellow leaves are often a sign of overwatering. If the soil feels soggy, stop watering immediately and allow it to dry out. Ensure the pot's drainage holes are not blocked. In some cases, yellow leaves can also mean the plant needs more light.
Leggy Stems
If your begonia looks like it is stretching and has long gaps between the leaves, it needs more light. Move it closer to a window or supplement with a grow light. You can also prune the long stems back to encourage a more compact shape.
Key Takeaway: Most indoor begonia problems can be solved by adjusting light or watering. Change one thing at a time and observe the plant for a week to see if it improves.
Bringing Begonias Back Outside in Spring
As the days get longer and the weather warms up, you can start thinking about moving your begonias back into the garden. This transition should be gradual to avoid "sunburn" on the leaves.
Restarting Tuberous Begonias
In March or early April, you can bring your stored tubers out of their winter nap. Place them in a shallow tray filled with damp peat moss or potting soil. Keep them in a warm, bright spot. When you see small pink or green sprouts emerging from the "cup" of the tuber, it is time to pot them up. Plant the tuber about an inch deep with the hollow side facing up.
Hardening Off
Whether they were stored as tubers or kept as houseplants, all begonias need to be "hardened off." This means slowly getting them used to the outdoor environment. Start by placing them in a sheltered, shady spot for an hour or two during the warmest part of the day. Over the course of a week, gradually increase their time outside and their exposure to light.
Do not plant them in the garden until all danger of frost has passed and the nighttime temperatures are reliably above 50°F. For many regions, this is the same time you would plant your tomatoes. If you are comparing indoor and outdoor care, our begonia indoor care article is a helpful companion.
Why We Love Overwintering Begonias
At Longfield Gardens, we see overwintering as more than just a money-saving trick. It’s a way to build a deeper connection with your garden. There is a great sense of satisfaction in seeing a tuber you saved all winter sprout into a massive, blooming plant in the summer. It allows you to grow larger, more impressive specimens that aren't always available at local garden centers.
Gardening is a year-round journey, and bringing begonias indoors is a perfect way to keep that journey going. It turns the "off-season" into a time of quiet observation and preparation. With very little effort, you can turn a seasonal purchase into a long-term investment in your landscape’s beauty. You can also review our All About Begonias guide for a broader planning refresher.
Conclusion
Bringing begonias indoors is a simple and rewarding way to protect your favorite plants from the winter cold. Whether you choose to keep them as active houseplants or store them as dormant tubers, the process is straightforward and achievable for gardeners of all skill levels. By understanding the specific needs of your begonia type and providing the right light, water, and humidity, you can ensure a successful transition.
The effort you put in now will pay off in the spring with larger plants and earlier blooms. It is one of those gardening "easy wins" that makes the hobby so enjoyable. We hope this guide helps you feel confident in preserving your begonias for many seasons to come.
- Identify if your begonia is tuberous (dormant) or fibrous/Rex (houseplant).
- Move plants inside before temperatures drop below 50°F.
- Cure tubers for a week before storing them in a cool, dark place.
- Use the "finger test" to avoid overwatering your indoor plants.
We are here to help you grow a more beautiful garden. If you're looking to add to your collection, we offer a wide variety of premium begonia tubers and plants that are shipped directly to your door at the right time for planting in your zone. Start with our hanging begonias or Upright Double Begonias.
"Overwintering is the bridge between last year's successes and next year's blooms. It turns a summer favorite into a permanent part of your garden story."
FAQ
Can I keep wax begonias as houseplants all year?
Yes, wax begonias are actually perennials in tropical climates and can live for several years if kept indoors. They need bright light and regular watering to stay healthy. They may even continue to produce small flowers throughout the winter if they get enough sun from a south-facing or east-facing window. For detailed indoor care, see How Do You Care for a Begonia Plant Indoors?.
My begonia tubers have a little bit of white mold on them in storage. Are they ruined?
Not necessarily. If you find a small amount of surface mold, wipe it off with a dry cloth and check that the tuber is still firm. Move the tubers to a spot with better air circulation or a slightly drier storage medium. However, if the tuber feels soft or mushy, it has likely rotted and should be discarded to prevent the rot from spreading to healthy tubers.
Why did my Rex begonia lose all its leaves when I brought it inside?
This is usually caused by "environmental shock." The air inside our homes is much drier and the light is much lower than it is outdoors. If the plant loses its leaves but the stems remain firm, don't worry. It will likely grow new leaves that are better adapted to the indoor conditions within a few weeks. Keep the soil lightly moist and provide plenty of indirect light.
Do I need to fertilize my begonias while they are indoors for the winter?
No, it is best to stop fertilizing during the winter months. Because there is less natural light, the plants grow very slowly and cannot use the extra nutrients. Adding fertilizer during this time can lead to a buildup of salts in the soil, which can damage the roots. Wait until you see vigorous new growth in the spring before you begin a regular feeding schedule.