Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Understanding Your Begonia Type
- Overwintering Tuberous Begonias
- Bringing Begonias Indoors as Houseplants
- Common Winter Challenges
- Regional Considerations
- Preparing for Spring
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Introduction
The vibrant, non-stop color of begonias is one of the greatest highlights of the summer garden. Whether they are spilling out of hanging baskets or brightening a shady border, these plants are beloved for their ability to bloom reliably from late spring until the first frost. It is completely natural to want to keep that beauty going, especially when you have found a variety that performs perfectly in your unique landscape.
At Longfield Gardens, we believe that gardening should be a rewarding and sustainable hobby. While many people treat begonias as annuals—plants that live for only one season—most varieties are actually tender perennials. This means they are capable of living for many years if they are protected from the cold. With a little bit of preparation, you can successfully bring your begonias inside to survive the winter.
This guide will help you determine which type of begonia you have and the best method for keeping it safe until spring. If you are still learning the basics, our Types of Begonias guide is a helpful place to start. We will cover everything from storing dormant tubers to caring for begonias as year-round houseplants. By following a few simple steps, you can enjoy your favorite plants season after season.
Understanding Your Begonia Type
Before you pick up a trowel or a pair of pruners, you must identify which type of begonia you are growing. This is the most important step because the method for overwintering depends entirely on how the plant grows. Not all begonias handle the winter the same way; some need a long nap, while others prefer to keep growing on a sunny windowsill. For a broader overview, see All About Begonias.
Tuberous Begonias
Tuberous begonias are famous for their large, rose-like flowers and their ability to thrive in partial shade. Common series like Non-Stop or Illumination fall into this category. These plants grow from a thick, potato-like structure underground called a tuber. In their natural habitat, these plants go through a period of dormancy. This means they shut down for the winter to rest. For these varieties, you will be storing the "bulb" itself rather than keeping the green plant alive.
Wax Begonias (Fibrous Begonias)
Wax begonias are the classic bedding plants often seen in municipal parks and garden borders. They have small, succulent leaves that feel slightly waxy to the touch and clusters of small red, white, or pink flowers. These plants have a fibrous root system rather than a tuber. They do not have a natural dormancy period, so they can be brought indoors and kept as active houseplants throughout the winter. For more on indoor success, see Is a Begonia an Indoor Plant?.
Cane-Like and Rhizomatous Begonias
Cane-like begonias, including the popular "Angel Wing" and "Dragon Wing" types, are known for their tall, bamboo-like stems and decorative foliage. Rhizomatous begonias, such as Rex begonias, are grown primarily for their stunning, colorful leaves. Like wax begonias, these types do not go dormant. They are happy to live indoors as long as they have enough light and humidity. If you want a deeper look at cane forms, How to Grow an Angel Wing Begonia is a useful companion read.
Key Takeaway: The first step to success is knowing your plant. Tuberous begonias need to go dormant and be stored in a cool spot, while wax, cane, and Rex begonias should be kept as active houseplants.
Overwintering Tuberous Begonias
If you are growing tuberous begonias, the goal is to preserve the tuber so it can sprout again next year. This process is very similar to how gardeners handle dahlias or canna lilies. Because these plants are tropical, they cannot survive a frozen winter in the ground, but the tubers are quite hardy once they are tucked away in a dry, frost-free place. If you are checking your planting area for winter timing, our Hardiness Zone Map can help.
When to Start the Process
In late summer or early autumn, you may notice your tuberous begonias looking a bit tired. This is the plant's way of preparing for rest. To help it along, stop fertilizing in August and begin to reduce the amount of water you provide. You want the soil to be on the drier side as the temperatures drop.
Ideally, you should wait until the first light frost kills the top of the foliage, or until the leaves turn yellow and the stems begin to pull away from the tuber. A light frost won't hurt the tuber underground, but it sends a clear signal to the plant that it is time to go to sleep.
Lifting and Cleaning the Tubers
Once the foliage has withered, carefully dig up the tubers. Use a hand trowel to loosen the soil several inches away from the base of the plant to avoid nicking the tuber. Gently lift the clump out of the ground or out of its container.
Shake off the excess soil and trim the stems back so only about an inch or two remains. Don't worry about getting them perfectly clean yet. Move the tubers to a dry, protected area—like a garage or a porch—where they are out of direct sun and rain. Let them "cure" or dry out for about a week. This drying period helps the outer skin toughen up, which prevents rot during storage.
Storing for the Winter
After the tubers are dry, you can brush off any remaining loose soil. Some gardeners like to dust the tubers with a little bit of sulfur powder to prevent fungal growth, though this isn't always necessary if your storage area is dry.
Place the tubers in a container filled with a dry material that allows for some air circulation. Good choices include:
- Peat moss
- Vermiculite
- Perlite
- Shredded paper
Store the container in a cool, dark, and dry place. A basement, crawl space, or an insulated garage that stays between 40°F and 50°F is perfect. Check on your tubers once a month to make sure they aren't shriveling too much or showing signs of mold. If they look very shriveled, a tiny mist of water can help, but error on the side of keeping them dry.
What to do next:
- Wait for the first light frost to signal dormancy.
- Dig the tubers carefully and trim the stems.
- Dry the tubers in a shaded spot for one week.
- Store in a cool, dry medium like peat moss.
Bringing Begonias Indoors as Houseplants
For wax, Rex, and Angel Wing begonias, you don't want the plants to go dormant. Instead, you want to move them from your patio or garden into your home. This transition can be a bit of a shock for the plants, so a gradual approach is best. If you are choosing a type for indoor culture, Can Begonias Grow Inside? explains the basics well.
The Acclimatization Period
Plants are very sensitive to changes in light and humidity. If you move a begonia directly from a bright, humid garden into a dry, dim living room, it may drop its leaves in protest. To avoid this, start the transition about two weeks before you expect the first frost.
Move your pots to a more shaded area of the yard for a few days to get them used to lower light levels. Then, bring them inside for the night and back out during the day. This "hardening off" in reverse helps the plant adjust its metabolism to the indoor environment.
Preparing the Plant for Indoor Life
Before you bring any plant inside, it is essential to check for hitchhikers. Pests like aphids, spider mites, or fungus gnats love the warm, stable environment of a home.
Give the plant a gentle spray with a garden hose to knock off any visible insects. You can also wash the leaves with a very mild solution of water and a drop of dish soap. If the plant was growing in the ground, you will need to transplant it into a container. Use a high-quality potting mix—which is a "soil-less" blend of peat, perlite, and bark—rather than garden soil. Garden soil is too heavy for containers and often contains pests or diseases that can thrive indoors. For more container care tips, see How to Plant and Care for Begonias.
Winter Care for Indoor Begonias
Once inside, your begonias need three main things to stay happy: light, moisture, and humidity.
Light: Place your begonias near a bright window. An east- or west-facing window usually provides the right amount of indirect light. If you notice the stems getting long and "leggy," the plant is stretching for more light and may need a brighter spot.
Water: Begonias like to be kept moist but never soggy. In the winter, plants grow more slowly and need less water than they do in the summer. Always check the soil with your finger. If the top inch feels dry, it is time to water. Make sure your pot has a drainage hole so excess water can escape. Drainage refers to how quickly water leaves the pot; begonias will rot if they sit in standing water.
Humidity: Our homes become very dry in the winter due to heating systems. Since begonias are tropical, they appreciate extra moisture in the air. You can create a "pebble tray" by filling a shallow tray with small stones and adding water. Set the plant pot on top of the stones, making sure the bottom of the pot isn't actually touching the water. As the water evaporates, it creates a humid microclimate around the leaves.
Key Takeaway: Success with indoor begonias depends on a slow transition. Provide bright indirect light, water only when the top inch of soil is dry, and use a pebble tray to boost humidity.
Common Winter Challenges
Gardening is a learning process, and overwintering begonias can sometimes present small hurdles. The good news is that most issues have very simple solutions.
Leaf Drop
It is very common for begonias to lose a few leaves shortly after moving indoors. This is usually just the plant's way of adjusting to the new light levels. As long as the stems look healthy and you see new growth starting to appear, there is no need to worry. Simply trim away the yellow or fallen leaves to keep the plant tidy.
Preventing Rot
The biggest threat to a dormant tuber or an indoor begonia is too much water. For dormant tubers, rot looks like soft, mushy spots. If you find a small soft spot, you can often cut it away, let the area dry, and save the rest of the tuber. For indoor plants, rot usually shows up as stems turning brown and mushy at the soil line. If this happens, stop watering immediately and let the soil dry out thoroughly.
Managing Pests
If you notice tiny flying insects around your plants, they are likely fungus gnats. These are attracted to consistently wet soil. The easiest way to manage them is to let the soil dry out more between waterings. For other pests like aphids, a simple wipe-down with a damp cloth or a spray of neem oil (following the label instructions) usually does the trick.
Regional Considerations
Depending on where you live, your winter strategy might vary slightly. At our facility in Lakewood, New Jersey, we experience cold winters that require all begonias to come inside. However, your local climate plays a role in the timing. If you are placing an order, our Shipping Information page explains how timing works by zone.
Northern Climates
In colder regions (USDA Zones 3-7), you must be vigilant about the first frost. Keep a close eye on the weather forecast starting in September. It is always better to bring your plants in a few days early than to let them get caught in a sudden freeze. Because northern winters are long, you may need to provide supplemental light, such as a simple LED grow light, to keep indoor begonias from becoming too thin and weak.
Southern and Warm Climates
If you live in a warmer region (Zones 8-10), you may be able to leave certain begonias in the ground. For tuberous begonias, the main challenge is keeping them dry during winter rains to prevent rot. Many gardeners in the south choose to grow begonias in containers year-round so they can simply move the pots to a covered porch or garage during the occasional cold snap. If you leave them in the ground, a thick layer of mulch (like wood chips or straw) can help protect the roots from fluctuating temperatures. For a broader look at growing habits, Are Begonias Annual or Perennial Plants? is a useful read.
Preparing for Spring
The most exciting part of overwintering is seeing your plants "wake up" as the days grow longer. This usually happens in late February or March.
Re-starting Tuberous Begonias
In early spring, check your stored tubers for small pink or green "eyes" (buds). This is the sign that they are ready to grow. Pot them up in fresh potting mix, placing the tuber about an inch deep with the hollow side facing up. Put the pots in a warm, bright spot and water them lightly. As soon as you see green stems breaking the surface, you can begin watering more regularly and adding a balanced liquid fertilizer.
Moving Plants Back Outside
Don't rush the move back to the garden! Begonias are very sensitive to cold nights. Wait until the danger of frost has completely passed and nighttime temperatures are reliably above 50°F.
Just as you did in the fall, you must acclimate the plants to the outdoors. Put them in a shaded, protected spot for a few hours a day, gradually increasing their time outside and their exposure to sunlight over a week or two. This prevents the leaves from getting "sunburned" and helps the plant build the strength it needs for a full season of blooming.
What to do next:
- Watch for new growth in late winter.
- Pot up tubers with the hollow side facing up.
- Wait for warm nights (above 50°F) before moving plants out.
- Acclimatize plants slowly to the outdoor sun.
Conclusion
Overwintering begonias is a wonderful way to save money and grow even larger, more impressive plants each year. Whether you choose to store tubers in a cool basement or enjoy the lush foliage of a Rex begonia in your living room, the process is straightforward and highly rewarding. By understanding the needs of your specific variety and focusing on the basics of light, water, and temperature, you can bridge the gap between growing seasons with ease. If you are just getting started, our Begonia collection is a good place to explore your options.
We are here to help you succeed in every stage of your gardening journey. At Longfield Gardens, our goal is to provide the quality plants and practical advice you need to create a beautiful landscape. Remember that gardening is an experiment, and every season is an opportunity to learn something new about your plants. For general support, you can also use our begonia growing guide.
Give overwintering a try this year. You will find that there is a special kind of satisfaction in seeing a plant you cared for all winter burst back into bloom when the spring sun finally returns.
FAQ
Can I leave tuberous begonias in their pots over the winter?
Yes, if you grew your begonias in containers, you can leave the tubers in the soil. Simply move the entire pot to a cool, dry, and frost-free location like a basement. Stop watering entirely and let the soil dry out. In the spring, you can remove the tuber to give it fresh soil and a head start.
Why are my begonia leaves turning yellow after I brought them inside?
This is usually a sign of the plant adjusting to lower light levels or a change in humidity. It can also happen if the soil is staying too wet. Ensure the plant is in a bright spot, trim off the yellow leaves, and only water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
Is it okay to use garden soil for my begonias when I pot them for the winter?
It is best to avoid garden soil for indoor containers. Garden soil is often too heavy, which prevents proper drainage and can lead to root rot. It may also contain insect eggs or fungus that can become a problem in the warmth of your home. Use a fresh, high-quality "soil-less" potting mix instead.
How cold can begonias get before they die?
Most begonias are tropical and will suffer damage if temperatures drop below 40°F. While tuberous begonias can survive a very light, brief frost because their tubers are underground, the foliage will die. To be safe, it is best to bring all begonias indoors once nighttime temperatures consistently hit 45°F to 50°F. If you need help planning by climate, the Hardiness Zone Map is a useful reference.