Introduction
Begonias are some of the most versatile and rewarding plants in the garden, offering lush foliage and vibrant blooms that last from early summer right until the first frost. Whether you are growing the massive, rose-like flowers of tuberous begonias or the "polka-dot" leaves of cane-type varieties, it is hard to say goodbye when the weather turns cold. The good news is that you do not have to let the season end your relationship with these beautiful plants.
At Longfield Gardens, we help home gardeners enjoy beauty in every season, and that includes finding ways to keep your favorite plants thriving year-round. While begonias are tropical by nature and cannot survive a freezing winter outdoors, many varieties can transition perfectly to life inside your home. Whether you want to keep them growing as active houseplants or store them away for a fresh start next spring, you have several successful options.
This guide will explain how to identify which type of begonia you have and the best way to bring it indoors. We will cover the specific care requirements for different varieties and provide simple steps to ensure your plants stay healthy through the winter months. You can successfully bring begonias indoors by matching your method to the specific needs of the plant.
Identifying Your Begonia Type
Before you bring a plant inside, you must know what kind of begonia you are handling. Begonias are a massive family of plants, and they do not all behave the same way when the temperature drops. Some are happy to keep blooming on a sunny windowsill, while others require a period of deep sleep to survive until spring.
Tuberous Begonias
These are the showstoppers often found in hanging baskets or shaded garden beds. They grow from a thick, potato-like underground structure called a tuber. Common varieties we offer, such as the Non-Stop or Illumination series, fall into this category. Tuberous begonias are programmed to go dormant in the winter. They will naturally begin to yellow and die back as the days get shorter, signaling that it is time for them to rest.
Fibrous-Rooted and Wax Begonias
Wax begonias are the classic bedding plants often seen in public parks and garden borders. They have succulent, shiny leaves (either green or bronze) and small, prolific flowers. These plants have a traditional root system rather than a tuber. They do not have a dormancy period and can grow as houseplants all winter long if they get enough light.
Rhizomatous and Rex Begonias
Rex begonias are grown primarily for their "electrifying" foliage, which can feature swirls of silver, purple, pink, and deep burgundy. They grow from a thick, fleshy stem called a rhizome that creeps along the surface of the soil. Like wax begonias, these do not go dormant. They make excellent houseplants because they already prefer the lower light levels typically found inside a home.
Cane-Type Begonias
Also known as Angel Wing begonias, these plants have upright, bamboo-like stems and large, asymmetrical leaves often decorated with silver spots. These are very hardy as houseplants and will continue to grow and even flower indoors if placed in a bright spot.
Key Takeaway: If your begonia grows from a bulb-like tuber, it needs a winter nap. If it has a standard root system or a creeping surface stem, it can stay active as a houseplant.
Bringing Begonias Indoors as Houseplants
If you have fibrous, cane-type, or Rex begonias, you can treat them as year-round houseplants. The transition from the humid, bright outdoors to the dry, climate-controlled indoors can be a bit of a shock, but a few simple steps will help them settle in.
Inspect and Clean the Plant
The most important rule for bringing any plant indoors is to leave the bugs outside. Before moving your pots, give each plant a thorough inspection. Check the undersides of leaves and the joints of the stems for any unwanted guests like aphids or spider mites.
We recommend giving the plant a gentle spray with a garden hose to knock off dust and lingering insects. If the plant is small enough, you can even dip the foliage into a bucket of lukewarm water with a tiny drop of mild dish soap. This ensures you aren't starting your indoor garden with a pest problem.
Pruning for the Move
Outdoor plants often grow much larger than their indoor counterparts. When you bring a begonia inside, it will have less energy because there is less light. To help the plant cope, it is a good idea to prune it back by about one-third.
Focus on removing any "leggy" growth or stems that have become too long. Use sharp, clean scissors to make cuts just above a leaf node. This encourages the plant to grow bushier and more compact, which looks better on a shelf or tabletop.
The Acclimation Period
Plants are sensitive to sudden changes in light and temperature. If possible, move your begonias to a porch or a more shaded area for a week before bringing them all the way inside. This helps the leaves adjust to lower light levels gradually.
Once they are inside, do not be surprised if a few leaves turn yellow or drop off. This is a normal reaction to the change in environment. As long as the stems remain firm and new growth eventually appears, your plant is doing just fine.
What to Do Next
- Check the soil for pests or hitchhiking weeds.
- Wipe down the outside of the pot to remove dirt and spiderwebs.
- Prune back long stems to create a compact shape.
- Find a spot with bright, indirect light away from cold drafts.
Essential Care for Indoor Begonias
Once your begonias are settled inside, their needs will change. The goal for the winter months is "maintenance" rather than "maximum growth." Because the sun is lower in the sky and the days are shorter, the plants will naturally slow down.
Light Requirements
Begonias love light, but they are not fans of the scorching midday sun. Indoors, the best spot is usually an east-facing window where they get gentle morning sun. A west-facing window is also good, provided there is a sheer curtain to filter the strongest rays. If you notice your plant's leaves turning brown or looking "crispy" on the edges, it might be getting too much direct sun. If the stems become very long and thin, it is likely reaching for more light.
Watering Correct, Not Constantly
Overwatering is the most common reason indoor plants struggle. Begonias have succulent stems that store water, which means they can handle a little bit of drying out. Use the "finger test" to check the soil. Stick your finger an inch into the dirt; if it feels dry, it is time to water. If it feels moist, wait a few more days.
Always water at the base of the plant. Begonia leaves are susceptible to mildew if they stay wet, so avoid splashing the foliage. Ensure your pot has a drainage hole so excess water can escape. We recommend emptying the saucer after watering so the plant never sits in a pool of water.
Managing Humidity
Our homes become very dry in the winter due to heating systems. Most begonias, especially Rex varieties, thrive in humidity levels between 40% and 60%. Since you cannot turn your living room into a tropical rainforest, a pebble tray is the perfect solution.
Fill a shallow tray with small stones or pebbles and add water until it is just below the top of the stones. Place your begonia pot on top of the pebbles. As the water evaporates, it creates a small zone of humid air right around the leaves. This is much more effective than misting, which only provides a few minutes of moisture and can encourage fungal diseases.
Skip the Fertilizer
During the winter, begonias go through a resting phase. They do not need the same boost of nutrients they required during the peak of summer. Stop fertilizing your plants in late fall and do not start again until you see vigorous new growth in the spring. Feeding a resting plant can lead to weak growth or a buildup of salts in the soil.
"Indoor begonia care is about balance. Give them bright light and steady humidity, but let the soil dry out slightly between waterings to keep the roots healthy."
Overwintering Tuberous Begonias
Tuberous begonias, like our Pendula or Picotee varieties, cannot stay active all winter. They are programmed to go dormant, and trying to force them to grow through the winter often leads to a weak, sickly plant. Instead, you can store the tubers and "wake them up" next year.
Timing the Dormancy
As fall approaches, stop fertilizing your tuberous begonias and begin to reduce the amount of water you give them. You will notice the leaves starting to turn yellow and the stems becoming a bit soft. This is exactly what should happen.
If your begonias are in the ground, wait until the first light frost has blackened the foliage. This light frost signals the plant to send all its energy down into the tuber for storage. If your begonias are in containers, you can simply move them to a garage or shed where they won't freeze but will stay cool.
Lifting and Cleaning Tubers
Once the foliage has died back, carefully dig up the tubers. If they are in pots, you can gently tip them out. Use your hands to brush off the excess soil, but be careful not to bruise the "skin" of the tuber.
Cut the stems off about an inch above the tuber. Do not pull the stems off, as this can damage the growing point (the "eye") of the plant. Let the cleaned tubers sit in a dry, room-temperature spot for about a week. This "curing" process helps the outer skin toughen up, which prevents rot during storage.
Proper Storage Conditions
Store your cured tubers in a breathable container. A cardboard box or a paper bag works well. To keep the tubers from drying out completely, nestle them in a layer of dry peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust.
Place the box in a cool, dark, and dry location. A basement or an unheated closet that stays between 40°F and 50°F is ideal. Check on them once a month. If a tuber feels shriveled, you can give the packing material a very light mist of water. If you see any soft spots or rot, remove that tuber immediately so it doesn't spread to the others.
What to Do Next
- Wait for the first light frost to trigger dormancy.
- Cut stems to one inch and clean off the soil.
- Cure the tubers in a dry spot for 7 days.
- Pack in peat moss and store in a cool, dark place.
Growing Begonias from Cuttings
If you have a massive begonia plant that is simply too big to fit on your windowsill, or if you want to share your favorite variety with a friend, taking cuttings is a wonderful option. This is an easy way to "save" a plant without bringing the entire heavy pot inside.
Taking the Cutting
Look for a healthy, vigorous stem on your begonia. Using a clean knife or scissors, cut a 4-to-6-inch section of the stem. Ensure your cutting has at least two or three leaf nodes (the bumps where leaves grow from the stem). Remove the lower leaves so that you have a bare section of stem to insert into the soil.
Rooting the Stem
You can root begonia cuttings in either water or a light potting mix.
- Water Method: Place the cutting in a glass of clean water, ensuring no leaves are submerged. Change the water every few days. Once roots are about an inch long, transplant the cutting into a small pot with fresh soil.
- Soil Method: Dip the end of the cutting into rooting hormone (optional) and poke it into a small pot filled with a mix of potting soil and perlite. Keep the soil consistently moist and place the pot in a warm, bright spot.
Cuttings taken in late summer or early fall will have plenty of time to establish roots before the depth of winter. By spring, you will have a brand-new, healthy plant ready to go back into the garden.
Choosing the Right Containers and Soil
The success of your indoor begonias often comes down to the environment provided by their pot and soil. If you are moving a plant from the garden into a pot, or repotting a container plant for the winter, keep these basics in mind.
Drainage is Essential
Begonias have very delicate roots that can easily rot if they stay submerged in water. This is why drainage is your best friend. Always choose a pot with at least one drainage hole. If you find a beautiful decorative pot that doesn't have a hole, use it as a "cachepot." Keep the begonia in a plain plastic nursery pot with holes, and simply set that inside the pretty decorative one.
Using Fresh Potting Mix
Never use garden soil for indoor plants. Garden soil is too heavy and often contains pests, fungus, or weed seeds that will thrive in the warmth of your home. Instead, use a high-quality, peat-based potting mix. These mixes are designed to be "fluffy," providing plenty of air space for roots to breathe while still holding onto the right amount of moisture. If your potting mix feels a bit dense, you can mix in a handful of perlite or coarse sand to improve the drainage.
Pot Size Matters
It is tempting to give a plant a "big house" by choosing a large pot, but begonias actually prefer to be slightly snug. A pot that is too large holds onto too much water, which the plant cannot use up quickly enough. This leads to soggy soil and root issues. When moving a begonia to a pot, choose one that is only about an inch or two wider than the root ball.
Key Takeaway: Match the pot size to the root ball and always use a light, well-draining potting mix. Drainage is the secret to a happy indoor begonia.
Common Indoor Challenges and Easy Fixes
Gardening should be a rewarding experience, and most begonia issues have very simple solutions. If your plant looks a little "off" after a month indoors, do not worry. It is usually just asking for a small adjustment in its environment.
Brown Leaf Edges
If the edges of your begonia leaves are turning brown and crispy, the air is likely too dry. This is common in homes with forced-air heating. Check your pebble tray to make sure it still has water. You might also move the plant away from any heating vents or radiators, which blow hot, drying air directly onto the foliage.
Yellowing Leaves and Soft Stems
This is almost always a sign of overwatering. If the soil feels like a wet sponge, stop watering immediately. Allow the soil to dry out completely until the top two inches are bone-dry. If the plant doesn't recover, you may need to check the roots for rot and repot it into fresh, dry soil. Remember, in winter, less is more when it comes to the watering can.
Stretching or "Leggy" Growth
If your begonia is growing very long, thin stems with lots of space between the leaves, it is telling you it needs more light. Move it to a brighter window or supplement with a simple LED grow light. You can also pinch back the tips of the long stems to encourage the plant to grow more leaves lower down on the plant.
Sudden Leaf Drop
If you just moved your plant inside and it drops several green leaves, it is likely just "acclimation shock." The plant is shedding leaves it grew for high-light outdoor conditions so it can grow new leaves adapted to the lower light of your home. Keep the care consistent, and you should see new growth within a few weeks.
Preparing for the Return to the Garden
As the days get longer in late February and March, your indoor begonias will start to wake up. This is an exciting time for any gardener! You will see tiny new leaves appearing at the tips of the branches or "eyes" beginning to sprout on your stored tubers.
Waking Up Stored Tubers
In early spring, about 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost, take your stored tubers out of their box. Place them on a tray in a warm, bright room. You can lightly mist them with water to encourage them to sprout.
Once you see small pink or green "eyes" growing, plant them in pots with the concave (hollowed out) side facing up. Don't bury them too deep; the top of the tuber should be just at or slightly below the soil surface. Keep them in a sunny window until the weather outside is consistently warm.
Hardening Off
Just as the move indoors required an adjustment period, so does the move back outside. When the nights are safely above 50°F, start taking your pots outside for a few hours a day. Put them in a shaded, protected spot first. Gradually increase their time outside and their exposure to light over a week or two. This "hardening off" process prevents the leaves from getting sunburned or wind-whipped.
Conclusion
Bringing begonias indoors is a simple and effective way to extend the life of your favorite plants. Whether you choose to keep them as vibrant houseplants or store them as dormant tubers, the process is straightforward and very rewarding. By understanding whether your variety needs a winter nap or a sunny windowsill, you can ensure that the beauty of your garden continues year-round.
At Longfield Gardens, we want every gardener to feel confident and successful. We stand behind the quality of our plants with a 100% quality guarantee. We ensure our bulbs and plants are true to variety and arrive in prime condition for planting. If you ever have a question about your begonias or need help with the overwintering process, our team is here to provide practical support.
- Identify if your begonia is tuberous (needs dormancy) or fibrous (stays active).
- Use pebble trays to maintain humidity for indoor houseplants.
- Store tuberous varieties in a cool, dry, dark place until spring.
- Always use the "finger test" before watering to prevent root rot.
Bringing begonias inside is not just about saving money; it is about keeping the joy of gardening alive during the coldest months of the year.
If you are looking to add more variety to your collection, we invite you to browse our selection of premium begonia tubers and start planning your most beautiful garden yet.
FAQ
Can I keep wax begonias as houseplants all year?
Yes, wax begonias are excellent candidates for indoor growing. They do not require a dormancy period and will continue to produce small flowers and glossy foliage throughout the winter if placed in a bright window.
When should I dig up my tuberous begonias for the winter?
The best time to dig them up is shortly after the first light frost has blackened the foliage. This ensures the plant has finished storing energy in the tuber but prevents the tuber itself from freezing, which would cause it to rot.
Why are the leaves on my indoor begonia falling off?
This is usually caused by a sudden change in environment, such as moving the plant from outdoors to indoors. As long as you provide bright, indirect light and avoid overwatering, the plant should stabilize and grow new leaves within a few weeks.
Do begonias need a special type of fertilizer while indoors?
During the winter, it is best to avoid fertilizer entirely while the plant’s growth slows down. In the spring, once you see active new growth, you can use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer at half-strength once a month.
