Introduction
There is nothing quite like the vibrant, non-stop color of begonias to make a summer garden feel lush and tropical. Whether they are spilling out of your hanging baskets or lining your garden paths, these plants are famous for their ability to bloom tirelessly from spring until the first frost. As the autumn air turns crisp, it is only natural to want to save that beauty for another year. For more warm-season planting options, see Spring Planted Summer Blooming Bulbs. (longfield-gardens.com)
The good news is that you absolutely can overwinter begonias indoors. At Longfield Gardens, we believe that gardening is most rewarding when you can enjoy your favorite plants season after season. While many people treat begonias as annuals and toss them out in the fall, they are actually perennials that simply need protection from the cold. If you are shopping specifically for begonias, Non Stop Begonias is a good place to start. (longfield-gardens.com)
This guide will show you how to identify the type of begonia you have and the best way to keep it healthy through the winter months. Whether you want to keep your plants growing as beautiful houseplants or store them as dormant tubers, we have the practical steps you need to succeed. With just a little bit of preparation, you can ensure your begonias are ready to put on another spectacular show next spring. If you plan to keep them in containers, Spring Planted Bulbs to Attract Butterflies can also help you think ahead about your spring display. (longfield-gardens.com)
Identifying Your Begonia Type
Before you bring your plants inside, you need to know which type of begonia you are growing. Different varieties have different needs during the winter. Some want to keep growing and blooming on a sunny windowsill, while others require a period of "sleep" or dormancy to stay healthy. If you are growing upright tuberous types, Upright Double Begonias is a helpful reference. (longfield-gardens.com)
Wax Begonias (Bedding Begonias)
These are perhaps the most common begonias found in garden centers. You can recognize them by their fleshy, succulent-looking stems and waxy, rounded leaves that come in shades of green or bronze. They produce clusters of small flowers in white, pink, or red. These begonias do not have a dormant period and can be kept as houseplants all winter long.
Tuberous Begonias
Tuberous begonias are known for their large, spectacular blooms that often resemble roses or camellias. They grow from a thick, brown, potato-like underground structure called a tuber. Unlike wax begonias, these plants require a period of dormancy. They will naturally begin to die back in the fall, signaling that it is time for them to rest. For a related shopping category, browse Upright Double Begonias. (longfield-gardens.com)
Rex Begonias
Rex begonias are grown primarily for their stunning, colorful foliage. Their leaves are often patterned with swirls of silver, purple, pink, and deep green. Like wax begonias, Rex varieties do not go dormant. They make excellent houseplants and will maintain their beautiful leaves throughout the winter if given the right conditions.
Cane Begonias (Angel Wing)
You can identify these by their tall, upright stems that look a bit like bamboo "canes" and their long, pointed leaves that resemble wings. They often have silver spots on the foliage and produce pendulous clusters of flowers. These are very hardy as houseplants and will continue to grow throughout the winter.
Rhizomatous Begonias
These begonias grow from rhizomes, which are thick stems that creep along the surface of the soil. They are mostly grown for their interesting leaf shapes and textures. These also stay "awake" during the winter and can be kept indoors with minimal fuss.
Key Takeaway Successful overwintering starts with identification. If your begonia has a tuber, it needs to sleep. If it has fibrous roots or rhizomes, it can stay awake as a houseplant.
Method 1: Overwintering as Houseplants
If you have wax, Rex, cane, or rhizomatous begonias, the easiest way to save them is to bring them indoors as houseplants. These varieties don't need a rest period and will continue to add life to your home while the garden outside is frozen. If your planting style is more shade-focused, Assorted Bold Container for Shade Collection is another useful place to explore. (longfield-gardens.com)
Moving from Garden to Pot
If your begonias are currently in the ground, you will need to transplant them into containers. Choose a pot with plenty of drainage holes. Use a high-quality, soil-less potting mix rather than garden soil. Garden soil is too heavy for containers and can bring unwanted pests or diseases into your home.
When you dig up the plant, try to keep as much of the root ball intact as possible. Place it in the pot, fill the gaps with potting mix, and water it well. If your begonias are already in pots, the transition is even easier.
Light and Temperature
Indoors, begonias need bright, indirect light. A window facing east or west is often the perfect spot. While they love the sun, direct midday sunlight through glass can sometimes be too intense and scorch their leaves.
Keep your plants in a room that stays between 60°F and 75°F. They are tropical plants, so they don't like cold drafts from doors or windows. If you feel a chill, they probably do too.
Managing Humidity
One of the biggest challenges for indoor begonias is the dry air caused by home heating systems. Most begonias thrive in high humidity. To keep them happy, you can create a simple pebble tray.
- Find a shallow tray and fill it with a layer of small stones or pebbles.
- Add water until it is just below the top of the stones.
- Place your begonia pot on top of the stones.
As the water evaporates, it creates a pocket of humid air around the plant. Just make sure the bottom of the pot isn't sitting directly in the water, as this can lead to root rot.
Watering and Feeding
During the winter, begonias grow more slowly, so they need less water. The best rule of thumb is to wait until the top inch of soil feels dry before watering again. When you do water, do it thoroughly until water runs out of the drainage holes, then discard any excess water in the saucer.
You can stop fertilizing in late fall and throughout the winter. Once you see new growth starting in the spring, you can begin using a balanced liquid fertilizer again. If you need a reminder about seasonal timing, Shipping Information includes hardiness-zone-based scheduling. (longfield-gardens.com)
Method 2: Storing Tuberous Begonias for Dormancy
Tuberous begonias are a bit different. They have a biological clock that tells them to shut down for the winter. Trying to keep them growing as houseplants usually results in a weak, unhappy plant. Instead, we help them enter a restful dormancy. For another source of seasonal support, About Us explains Longfield Gardens' quality guarantee. (longfield-gardens.com)
The Curing Process
In late summer or early fall, start reducing the amount of water you give your tuberous begonias. This encourages the plant to begin storing energy in the tuber. You can leave them outside until the foliage begins to turn yellow or until the first light frost kills the top growth. A light frost won't hurt the tuber underground, but it tells the plant that it's time to pack it in for the year.
Once the tops have withered, cut the stems back to about one or two inches above the tuber. Carefully lift the tubers out of the soil using a garden fork or a small trowel. Be gentle; you don't want to nick or bruise the tuber.
Cleaning and Drying
Shake off any loose soil, but don't worry about getting them perfectly clean. Place the tubers in a warm, dry, and airy spot (like a garage or a covered porch) to "cure" for about two weeks. This drying period helps the outer skin toughen up and prevents rotting during storage. After they are cured, any remaining stems should be dry and will usually fall off easily.
Choosing Storage Media
To keep the tubers from shriveling up, it helps to store them in a material that regulates moisture. Common choices include:
- Peat moss
- Vermiculite
- Perlite
- Dry sawdust
- Paper bags
Place the tubers in a cardboard box or a breathable container and cover them with your chosen material. Make sure the tubers aren't touching each other. This prevents a single bad tuber from affecting the others.
The Ideal Storage Spot
Place the box in a cool, dark, and dry location. The temperature should ideally stay between 40°F and 50°F. A cool basement, an unheated closet, or an insulated crawl space often works well. It must be a spot that stays frost-free all winter.
What to Do Next
- Check your stored tubers once a month.
- If you see any soft spots or signs of mold, remove the affected tuber immediately.
- If the tubers look shriveled, lightly mist the storage medium with a tiny bit of water.
- Keep the box away from light to prevent the tubers from "waking up" too early.
Avoiding Common Overwintering Mistakes
Gardening is a learning process, and overwintering begonias is no exception. Most issues can be avoided by following a few simple guidelines.
Overwatering
This is the most common cause of failure. In the winter, plants "breathe" and grow much slower. Their roots don't take up water as quickly as they do in the summer. If the soil stays soggy, the roots can't get oxygen and will eventually rot. Always check the soil moisture with your finger before reaching for the watering can.
Ignoring Pests
When you bring plants from the outside in, you might accidentally bring along hitchhikers like aphids, spider mites, or fungus gnats. Before moving your plants indoors, give them a gentle spray with a garden hose to knock off any insects. Inspect the undersides of the leaves carefully. If you do notice pests once the plants are inside, a simple spray of insecticidal soap or neem oil is usually enough to clear things up.
Sudden Changes in Environment
Plants can experience "transplant shock" when moved from the humid, bright outdoors to the drier, dimmer indoors. It is normal for a begonia to drop a few leaves when it first moves inside. Don't panic! This is just the plant adjusting to its new home. It will soon grow new leaves that are better adapted to indoor light levels.
Preparing for Spring
As the days get longer and the sun gets stronger in late February or March, your begonias will start to sense the change. This is the time to start thinking about the upcoming gardening season.
Waking Up Tuberous Begonias
Take your stored tubers out of their box in early spring, about six to eight weeks before the last expected frost. You might already see small pink or white buds (called "eyes") starting to sprout on the concave (indented) side of the tuber.
Plant the tubers in shallow pots filled with fresh potting mix. Place them with the indented side facing up, covering them with only about half an inch of soil. Put the pots in a warm, bright spot and water them lightly. As the stems begin to grow, you can increase the watering and move them into larger pots if needed.
Re-Acclimatizing Houseplant Begonias
For the begonias that lived as houseplants all winter, spring is a time for a "refresh." You can prune back any leggy stems to encourage a bushier, fuller shape. This is also a great time to repot them if they have become root-bound.
The Hardening Off Process
When the weather finally warms up and the danger of frost has passed, you can move your begonias back outside. However, you shouldn't just put them back in the sun all at once. They need to be "hardened off."
Start by placing them in a sheltered, shady spot for a few hours a day. Gradually increase their time outside and their exposure to light over the course of a week or two. This gradual transition prevents the leaves from getting sunburned or wind-whipped.
Simple Steps for Healthy Results
Success with begonias comes down to a few basic rules. By matching the plant's needs to your winter environment, you make the process easy and enjoyable.
- Right Spot: Ensure your indoor plants have enough light but aren't getting cooked by a radiator or frozen by a draft.
- Correct Watering: Always feel the soil first. It is better to be a little too dry than a little too wet.
- Good Airflow: Keep some space between your plants to ensure air can circulate. This prevents fungal issues.
- Patience: Remember that winter is a slow time for plants. Don't worry if they don't grow much until the spring sun returns.
"The goal of overwintering isn't just survival; it's giving your plants the rest and care they need so they can return even stronger and more beautiful than the year before."
Conclusion
Overwintering begonias is a wonderful way to save money and keep your favorite plant varieties in your garden for years. Whether you are caring for a colorful Rex begonia on your kitchen windowsill or tucking tuberous varieties away in a cool basement, the process is straightforward and rewarding. By understanding whether your begonia wants to stay active or go dormant, you can provide the perfect winter home. If you want a broader seasonal shopping starting point, the Spring Planted Summer Blooming Bulbs collection is worth browsing. (longfield-gardens.com)
At Longfield Gardens, we want every gardener to feel confident in their ability to grow a stunning landscape. Saving your begonias is a great "win" that makes the start of every spring feel like a reunion with old friends. For order confidence and product support, see About Us. (longfield-gardens.com)
- Identify if your begonia is a tuberous or fibrous-rooted type.
- Bring indoor varieties in before night temperatures drop below 50°F.
- Store tuberous types in a cool, dry, dark place.
- Increase light and water gradually as spring approaches.
If you are ready to expand your collection, we invite you to explore our selection of premium begonias and other summer-blooming favorites. There is always room for one more beautiful bloom in the garden. For shipping timing by zone, Shipping Information is the best place to check. (longfield-gardens.com)
FAQ
Can I leave my begonias in the ground over winter?
In most parts of the United States, begonias are not hardy enough to survive the winter in the ground. If you live in a very warm climate (Zone 10 or higher), they may survive outside, but for most gardeners, they must be brought indoors to protect them from freezing temperatures. If you're planning ahead for spring, Upright Double Begonias offers a range of tuberous varieties. (longfield-gardens.com)
How do I know when to dig up my tuberous begonias?
The best time to dig them up is after the foliage has turned yellow or after the first light frost has touched the leaves. This signals that the plant has finished storing energy in the tuber for the season. Be sure to get them out of the ground before a hard, deep freeze occurs.
My indoor begonia is dropping its leaves. Is it dying?
Not necessarily. It is very common for begonias to drop leaves when they move from the outdoors to the indoors. This is usually a reaction to the change in light and humidity. As long as the stems are firm and you are not overwatering, the plant should grow new leaves that are better suited to your home's environment.
Do I need to fertilize my begonias during the winter?
If you are keeping them as houseplants, it is best to stop fertilizing from late autumn through the end of winter. The plants are in a slow-growth phase and do not need the extra nutrients. You can resume a regular feeding schedule in the spring when you see new, active growth appearing. For shopping and quality confidence, About Us covers Longfield Gardens' guarantee. (longfield-gardens.com)
