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Longfield Gardens

Can I Plant Begonias in the Ground?

Table of Contents

  1. Introduction
  2. Choosing the Right Begonia for Your Garden Beds
  3. Selecting the Perfect Planting Site
  4. Preparing Your Soil for Success
  5. When to Plant Begonias in the Ground
  6. How to Plant Begonia Tubers and Bedding Plants
  7. Designing with Begonias in the Landscape
  8. Ongoing Care for In-Ground Begonias
  9. End of Season: What to Do in Fall
  10. Conclusion
  11. FAQ

Introduction

Imagine a shady corner of your garden transformed into a sea of vibrant blossoms that last from early summer until the first frost. While many people think of these flowers only as residents of hanging baskets or porch pots, you can absolutely enjoy them directly in your landscape. Planting begonias in the ground is one of the easiest ways to add consistent, high-impact color to garden beds where other flowers might struggle.

At Longfield Gardens, we enjoy seeing how these versatile plants can brighten up even the quietest corners of a yard. Whether you are looking to create a lush border or fill a woodland garden with texture, begonias are a reliable choice for gardeners of all experience levels. This guide will help you understand which types work best for the ground, how to prepare your soil, and the simple steps to ensure a season full of flowers.

This article is designed for home gardeners who want to expand their landscape options with summer-blooming bulbs and annuals. We will cover site selection, soil preparation, and the specific planting techniques for different begonia varieties. By the time you finish reading, you will know exactly how to turn your garden beds into a tropical-inspired retreat.

Choosing the Right Begonia for Your Garden Beds

The first step to success is choosing the right plant for your specific needs. Not all begonias are the same, and some are better suited for ground planting than others. Most begonias we use in the landscape fall into three main categories.

Tuberous Begonias for Dramatic Color

Tuberous begonias are the "show-stoppers" of the family. These plants grow from a firm, brown tuber and produce large, rose-like flowers in brilliant shades of red, orange, pink, yellow, and white. They are famous for their ability to bloom continuously without needing much extra help. See the Non Stop Begonias collection for a classic example.

If you want to plant these in the ground, look for upright varieties like the Non-Stop series or Fimbriata types. These have sturdy stems that can support heavy blooms. Because they grow to a predictable height and width, they are perfect for the front of a flower bed or along a walkway. We find that their lush, green foliage provides a beautiful backdrop for their intense flower colors all summer long.

Wax Begonias for Reliable Borders

Wax begonias are fibrous-rooted plants usually grown as annuals in most parts of the United States. They have small, succulent leaves that look like they have been polished with wax, which is where they get their name. These are the workhorses of the bedding plant world. For a broader look at begonia types, see our All About Begonias guide.

They are incredibly tough and can handle a bit more sun than their tuberous cousins. If you have a long border to fill, wax begonias are an excellent choice. They stay relatively short and compact, creating a neat, colorful edge for your garden. Their flowers are smaller, but they produce them in such high numbers that the plants often look like a solid carpet of color.

Hardy Begonias for Permanent Landscapes

While most begonias are tropical and need to be brought inside for winter, there is one notable exception. Begonia grandis, also known as the hardy begonia, is a perennial in USDA zones 6 through 9. This plant looks a bit different, with heart-shaped leaves that have striking red veins on the underside.

Hardy begonias are wonderful for naturalizing in woodland gardens. They slowly spread to create a colony of plants that return year after year. They bloom later in the season, usually in late summer and fall, providing a fresh burst of pink or white flowers just as other plants are starting to fade.

Key Takeaway: Tuberous begonias offer the largest, most dramatic flowers for garden beds, while wax begonias are ideal for creating low-maintenance, colorful borders.

Selecting the Perfect Planting Site

To get the most out of your begonias, you need to match the plant to the right location. This is what we call the "right plant, right place" rule. Begonias have a few specific preferences that will make the difference between a plant that just survives and one that truly thrives.

Understanding Light and Shade

Most begonias are famous for their love of shade, but they do need some light to produce flowers. For more shade-loving options, see our Summer Flowers for Shade collection.

If your garden gets direct sun, try to make sure it is morning sun. Morning light is cool and gentle. The hot, intense rays of the afternoon sun can sometimes scorch the leaves, causing them to turn brown at the edges. If you have a very sunny spot, wax begonias with bronze-colored leaves are often more tolerant of the heat than those with green leaves.

Protecting Your Plants from Wind

Begonias have thick, succulent stems that are full of water. While this makes them great at handling short dry spells, it also makes the stems a bit brittle. Strong winds can snap the heavy stems of upright tuberous begonias.

When planting in the ground, look for a spot that is somewhat sheltered. Planting near a fence, a wall, or a group of sturdy shrubs can provide a windbreak. If you are planting a taller variety, such as a large-flowered AmeriHybrid type, you might consider using a small bamboo stake for extra support, though most ground-planted begonias stay low enough to be fine on their own.

Preparing Your Soil for Success

The secret to a beautiful garden is almost always in the soil. Begonias are not overly picky, but they do require two things: good drainage and plenty of organic matter.

Fixing Drainage Issues

"Drainage" simply refers to how fast water leaves the soil after it rains or after you water. Begonias hate "wet feet." If the soil stays soggy for too long, the roots or the tubers can rot.

To test your drainage, dig a small hole and fill it with water. If the water disappears in a few minutes, your drainage is excellent. If it sits there for an hour, you have heavy soil that needs a little help. You can improve drainage by mixing in some compost or leaf mold. These organic materials create spaces between soil particles, allowing water to move through more easily.

Adding Nutrients with Compost

Begonias are hungry plants because they are constantly producing new leaves and flowers. Before you plant, it is a good idea to work a two-inch layer of compost into the top six inches of your garden bed. Compost provides a slow release of nutrients and helps the soil hold just the right amount of moisture.

If you don't have compost, you can use a high-quality bagged garden soil. Avoid using "potting mix" in the ground, as it is designed for containers and can dry out too quickly in a landscape setting.

What to do next:

  • Observe your garden for a day to find the spots with filtered light.
  • Dig a small test hole to check how quickly your soil drains.
  • Mix a few shovels of compost into the planting area to give your begonias a head start.

When to Plant Begonias in the Ground

Timing is everything when it comes to tropical plants. Because begonias are very sensitive to cold, you must wait until the right moment to move them into the garden.

Monitoring Soil Temperature

In many parts of the country, the air might feel warm, but the soil is still chilly. Begonias will sit still and refuse to grow if the soil is cold. For the best results, wait until the soil temperature reaches about 60°F. You can also check the USDA hardiness zone map.

A simple way to tell if it is time is to look at your local weather forecast. If the nighttime temperatures are consistently staying above 50°F, the soil is likely warm enough. In most northern states, this happens in late May or early June. In the South, you may be able to plant much earlier.

The Danger of Frost

Even a light frost can turn a beautiful begonia into a pile of mush. Do not be tempted to plant as soon as the first warm day arrives. Check your local "last frost date" and wait at least a week after that date has passed. If an unexpected late frost is predicted after you have planted, you can protect your begonias by covering them with a light cloth or an inverted bucket for the night.

How to Plant Begonia Tubers and Bedding Plants

Once the weather is warm and your soil is ready, it is time to get your hands in the dirt. For more detail, see our Tips for Growing Tuberous Begonias.

The method you use will depend on whether you are starting with dormant tubers or young plants from a nursery.

Planting Tuberous Begonias Step-by-Step

Many gardeners prefer to buy begonia tubers because they are easy to ship and offer a wider variety of flower styles. Here is how to plant them directly in the ground:

  1. Find the "Up" side: Look at the tuber. One side will have a slight depression or "bowl" shape. This hollow side should face up toward the sky. The rounded side should face down.
  2. Dig a shallow hole: You don't need a deep hole for begonias. Dig just deep enough so that the top of the tuber will be covered by about one inch of soil.
  3. Space them out: Tuberous begonias need room for their leaves to spread. Space the tubers about 6 to 12 inches apart. This ensures they have plenty of air circulation, which helps prevent leaf diseases.
  4. Cover and settle: Gently cover the tuber with soil. You don't need to pack it down hard; just a light pat will do.
  5. Water carefully: Give the area a light watering to settle the soil. Be careful not to overwater at this stage. The tuber is still "sleeping" and doesn't need much moisture until it starts to grow.

Planting Wax Begonias for Borders

If you are using wax begonias that are already growing in small plastic packs, the process is even simpler:

  1. Prepare the hole: Dig a hole that is the same depth as the container the plant is currently in.
  2. Gently remove the plant: Squeeze the sides of the plastic pot and slide the plant out. Try not to pull on the stem.
  3. Set the plant: Place it in the hole and fill in around the sides with soil. The top of the root ball should be level with the surrounding garden soil.
  4. Space for impact: For a solid carpet of color, space wax begonias about 8 to 10 inches apart.

Key Takeaway: Getting the planting depth right—one inch deep for tubers—is the simplest way to ensure your begonias sprout successfully.

Designing with Begonias in the Landscape

Begonias are wonderful team players in the garden. Because they stay relatively low and love shade, they can be used in several creative ways.

Best Companion Plants

When choosing neighbors for your begonias, look for plants that share their love for dappled light and moist soil.

  • Hostas: The broad, textured leaves of hostas provide a perfect contrast to the bright flowers of begonias.
  • Ferns: The delicate, lacy fronds of ferns add an airy feel to a begonia border.
  • Astilbe: These plants offer tall, feathery plumes of flowers that rise above the mounded shape of begonias.
  • Caladiums: If you love color, caladiums offer heart-shaped leaves in shades of white, pink, and red that look stunning next to begonias.

Creating Color Patterns

Because begonias come in so many distinct colors, you can use them to create specific moods. For a calm, elegant look, try a "monochromatic" scheme using only white begonias against dark green hostas. For a high-energy look, mix bright orange and yellow tuberous begonias. We often see these used to brighten up a dark walkway or to draw the eye to the base of a large tree.

Ongoing Care for In-Ground Begonias

Once your begonias are established, they are quite low-maintenance. A little bit of regular attention will keep them blooming until the end of the season.

Watering Rules

The goal with begonias is "deep, then dry." This means you should water the plants thoroughly so the moisture reaches the roots, and then wait until the surface of the soil feels dry to the touch before watering again.

Avoid giving them a light "sprinkle" every day. This only wets the leaves and doesn't help the roots. When you water, try to aim the hose at the base of the plant. Keeping the leaves dry helps prevent problems like powdery mildew, which can happen if the foliage stays wet for too long in humid weather.

Fertilizing for Constant Blooms

Flowers require energy. To keep the blooms coming, it helps to give your begonias a little extra food. A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer works best. You can apply this every two to four weeks throughout the summer.

We have found that begonias respond very well to fish emulsion early in the season to help them grow strong stems. Once you see the first flower buds, you can switch to a fertilizer with a higher middle number (phosphorus), which is specifically designed to encourage more blossoms. Always follow the directions on the label for the best results.

Grooming and Deadheading

"Deadheading" is just a gardening word for removing old, faded flowers. On tuberous begonias, the old flowers will often fall off on their own, but picking them off by hand keeps the garden looking tidy. Removing the old flowers also encourages the plant to put its energy into making new ones.

You may notice that tuberous begonias produce two types of flowers on the same plant: large, double blossoms (the males) and smaller, single blossoms (the females). Both are beautiful, but if you want the largest possible show, some gardeners remove the smaller single flowers. However, this isn't necessary for a healthy, happy plant.

What to do next:

  • Water at the base of the plant to keep the leaves dry.
  • Use a balanced fertilizer every few weeks to keep the colors bright.
  • Take a walk through your garden once a week to snip off any faded blooms.

End of Season: What to Do in Fall

As the summer ends and the nights get cool, your begonias will naturally start to slow down. In most parts of the US, begonias are not hardy enough to survive the winter in the ground.

Digging and Storing Tubers

If you have planted tuberous begonias, you don't have to buy new ones every year. You can save the tubers and replant them next spring!

Wait until the first light frost has touched the leaves. This signals the plant to go dormant. Carefully dig up the tubers with a garden fork, being careful not to nick the "skin." Leave the stems attached for now and let the tubers sit in a dry, frost-free place for about two weeks.

Once the stems have dried out, they will easily pull away from the tuber. Brush off any loose soil and wrap each tuber in a piece of newspaper. Store them in a cardboard box in a cool, dark, and dry place—like a basement or a closet—where the temperature stays around 50°F. Next spring, they will be ready to start the cycle all over again.

Handling Wax Begonias

Wax begonias are usually treated as annuals. When the frost hits, they can be pulled up and added to your compost pile. However, if you have a favorite plant, you can dig it up in early fall, pot it, and bring it inside to live as a houseplant on a sunny windowsill until spring.

Conclusion

Planting begonias in the ground is a simple, rewarding way to bring long-lasting color to the shady parts of your landscape. By choosing the right varieties, preparing your soil with compost, and waiting for the warmth of late spring, you can ensure a successful growing season. These versatile plants ask for very little—just a bit of shade, well-drained soil, and regular water—and in return, they provide a spectacular display from summer through fall.

Whether you are bordering a path with wax begonias or creating a focal point with large-flowered tuberous varieties, the results are always worth the wait. We hope these tips help you feel confident as you plan your next garden project. If you have questions about which variety is right for your zone, our team at Longfield Gardens is always here to help you grow a more beautiful home.

  • Wait for warm soil (60°F) before planting outdoors.
  • Choose a spot with dappled shade and protection from strong winds.
  • Plant tubers with the hollow side facing up, one inch below the soil surface.
  • Water deeply when the soil surface feels dry.

"Gardening is about enjoying the process. Begonias make it easy by providing some of the most reliable and brilliant color you can find for the shade."

Ready to start your shade garden? Explore our selection of premium begonia tubers and find the perfect colors for your garden beds today.

FAQ

Can I plant begonias in a spot that gets full sun?

While most begonias prefer shade, wax begonias—especially those with bronze-colored leaves—can handle more sun than tuberous varieties. In cooler northern climates, tuberous begonias may tolerate more sun, but in the South, they must have afternoon shade to prevent the leaves and flowers from scorching.

How far apart should I space begonias in a garden bed?

Spacing depends on the variety you are planting. Tuberous begonias generally need 6 to 12 inches between plants to allow for leaf spread and air circulation. Small wax begonias used for borders can be spaced closer together, about 8 to 10 inches apart, to create a lush, continuous row of color.

Why are the flowers falling off my begonias in the ground?

The most common reason for flower drop is a change in moisture. If the soil becomes too dry, the plant may drop its blooms to conserve energy. Similarly, very high temperatures or extremely soggy soil can cause stress that leads to flower loss. Keep the soil consistently moist but not wet to prevent this.

Do I really need to dig up the tubers every year?

If you live in USDA zones 8 or warmer, begonia tubers can often stay in the ground year-round if the soil stays relatively dry in winter. However, in zones 3 through 7, the ground freezes, which will destroy the tropical tubers. In those cooler regions, you must dig them up and store them indoors to save them for the following year. For a quick check, see the USDA hardiness zone map.

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