Introduction
As the crisp air of autumn begins to settle over the garden, many of us look at our vibrant begonia displays and feel a bit of reluctance to let them go. Whether you have cascading tuberous begonias in hanging baskets or striking Rex begonias in patio pots, these plants provide a lush, tropical feel that is hard to match. The good news is that you don’t have to treat these beauties as one-season wonders. If you’re looking to add more to your own display, start with the begonia collection.
At Longfield Gardens, we believe that gardening is a year-round journey of discovery. Many begonias can be successfully brought indoors to either continue growing as houseplants or to rest quietly until the warmth of spring returns. This guide will help you identify which type of begonia you have and provide the simple steps needed to keep them safe throughout the cold months. For a broader care overview, our begonia planting and care guide is a helpful companion read.
Identifying Your Begonia Type
Before you bring a single pot across the threshold, it is important to know which kind of begonia you are growing. Begonias are a diverse family, and different types have different requirements for the winter. Some prefer to stay green and active all year, while others need a "nap" to stay healthy.
Tuberous Begonias
Tuberous begonias are famous for their large, rose-like blooms and dramatic colors. They grow from a thick, potato-like underground structure called a tuber. Common varieties include the upright Non-Stop series and various trailing types perfect for shade-loving baskets. These begonias are deciduous, meaning they naturally want to go dormant for the winter. You will notice their stems becoming a bit brittle and leaves yellowing as the days get shorter. If you love this group, take a look at Non Stop begonias.
Fibrous and Wax Begonias
Wax begonias (Begonia semperflorens) are the hardy workers of the garden, often seen in bedding displays or small pots. They have fleshy, succulent-like leaves that can be green or bronze. These begonias have a fibrous root system rather than a tuber. They do not have a natural dormancy period, so they are excellent candidates for living on a sunny windowsill through the winter. For a broader overview of indoor-ready options, browse shop indoor flower bulbs.
Rhizomatous and Rex Begonias
Rex begonias are grown primarily for their incredible foliage, featuring swirls of silver, purple, pink, and emerald. These plants grow from a rhizome—a thick stem that creeps along the surface of the soil. Like wax begonias, Rex and other rhizomatous types don’t usually go dormant. They appreciate a consistent environment and can make a stunning addition to your indoor plant collection. For practical winter care, see the best growing conditions for begonias.
Cane-Stemmed Begonias
Often called "Angel Wing" begonias because of their long, pointed leaves, these plants grow on tall, bamboo-like stems. They are very sturdy and can grow quite large. These are tropical evergreens that will happily bloom indoors if given enough light and humidity.
Key Takeaway: Determining if your plant has a tuber or a fibrous root system is the first step. Tuberous begonias need a rest, while fibrous, cane, and Rex begonias prefer to keep growing.
Bringing Tuberous Begonias Indoors for Dormancy
Tuberous begonias are perhaps the most popular varieties we offer at Longfield Gardens because of their spectacular floral performance. These plants are not frost-hardy, but they are very easy to overwinter if you follow a simple process to help them enter dormancy. If you need a quick reference for weather timing, the hardiness zone map is a useful tool.
The Natural Signal
In late September or October, you will notice your tuberous begonias starting to look a little tired. This is natural. As temperatures drop and daylight hours decrease, the plant begins moving energy from the leaves and stems down into the tuber. To help this process along, start by reducing the amount of water you give the plant.
Handling the First Frost
Tuberous begonias can actually benefit from a very light touch of frost. A light frost that nips the foliage tells the plant it is officially time to sleep. However, do not leave them out for a hard freeze, as this can damage the tuber itself. Once the foliage has turned yellow or has been blackened by a light frost, it is time to act.
Lifting and Storing Tubers
- Cut the stems: Use a clean pair of garden snips to cut the stems back to about one or two inches above the tuber.
- Dig carefully: If the begonias are in the ground, lift them gently with a garden fork, taking care not to bruise or nick the tuber. If they are in pots, you can simply pull the tuber out of the soil.
- Curing: Place the tubers in a cool, dry, and shaded spot (like a garage or basement) for a few days. This allows the outer skin to toughen up and any remaining stem bits to dry up and fall off naturally.
- Cleaning: Gently brush off excess soil, but do not wash them with water. Keeping them dry is essential to prevent rot.
- Storage: Place the tubers in a cardboard box or a paper bag filled with slightly damp peat moss, perlite, or vermiculite. This keeps them from drying out completely without making them wet.
Winter Placement
Store your box of tubers in a cool, dark place where the temperature stays between 45°F and 55°F. A cool closet or an insulated crawlspace often works well. Check them once a month to ensure they aren't shriveling or showing signs of mold. If they look very shriveled, a tiny spritz of water on the packing material is all they need.
What to do next:
- Watch for yellowing leaves in early October.
- Stop fertilizing tuberous begonias by late August.
- Find a cool, frost-free spot in your home for winter storage.
Transitioning Begonias as Houseplants
If you have wax, Rex, or cane-stemmed begonias, you don’t need to put them to sleep. You can bring them inside to enjoy their foliage and occasional blooms all winter long. The goal here is to make the move from the great outdoors to the indoor environment as smooth as possible. For more general growing help, the begonia care and propagation guide is a useful next step.
The "In-Between" Phase
Plants experience a bit of shock when they move from the humid, bright outdoors to the drier, dimmer indoors. To minimize this, bring your plants inside before you turn on your home's heating system. This allows the plant to adjust to the lower light levels before it has to deal with the dry air of a heated house.
Pest Inspection and Cleaning
Before you bring any plant inside, give it a thorough inspection. Check the undersides of leaves and the joints of stems for "hitchhikers" like aphids, mealybugs, or spider mites. A gentle spray with a garden hose can knock off most pests. You might also want to wipe the leaves with a damp cloth or use a mild insecticidal soap if you see any persistent visitors.
Pruning for Success
Outdoor begonias often grow quite large and lush. When you bring them inside, they may struggle to maintain all that growth with less light. It is often helpful to prune the plant back by about one-third. This makes the plant more manageable and encourages it to grow new leaves that are better adapted to indoor light levels.
Repotting Considerations
If your begonia has been growing in the ground, you will need to pot it up. Choose a container that is only slightly larger than the root ball. Begonias generally prefer to be a little bit "snug" in their pots. Use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix. If the plant is already in a pot, simply wash the outside of the container to keep your indoor space clean.
Key Takeaway: Moving plants indoors is easier on the plant if done gradually. Pruning and pest checks ensure your begonias stay healthy and look great in your living space.
Creating the Perfect Indoor Environment
Once your begonias are inside, they will need a little extra attention to thrive. Indoor conditions are quite different from the garden, but a few simple adjustments can make your begonias feel right at home.
Light Requirements
Light is the most important factor for indoor begonias. While they love shade outdoors, the "shade" inside a house is often too dark.
- Wax and Cane Begonias: These prefer bright, indirect light. An east-facing or west-facing window is usually ideal.
- Rex Begonias: These can handle slightly lower light but still need a bright room to keep their vivid colors.
- Signs of light issues: If your begonia starts "reaching" for the window or the stems become very thin and weak, it needs more light. If the leaves start to look bleached or scorched, it might be getting too much direct afternoon sun.
Temperature and Drafts
Begonias appreciate the same temperatures that humans do. They are most comfortable between 65°F and 75°F during the day. At night, they don't mind if it gets a little cooler, but try to keep them away from temperatures below 55°F. Be careful not to place your plants near cold drafts from doors or windows, and keep them away from the direct blast of heating vents, which can dry them out very quickly.
Solving the Humidity Challenge
The biggest struggle for indoor begonias is the dry air of a heated home. This is especially true for Rex begonias, which crave moisture in the air.
- Pebble Trays: This is a classic and effective trick. Fill a shallow tray with pebbles and add water until it is just below the tops of the stones. Sit your begonia pot on the pebbles. As the water evaporates, it creates a little "micro-climate" of humidity around the plant.
- Grouping Plants: Plants naturally release moisture through their leaves. By grouping several plants together, you can create a pocket of higher humidity.
- Avoid Misting: While it seems helpful, misting begonia leaves can sometimes lead to fungal issues like powdery mildew. It’s better to increase the humidity in the air rather than getting the leaves wet.
Watering and Feeding
In the winter, begonias grow more slowly, which means they need less water and food.
- The Finger Test: Before watering, stick your finger about an inch into the soil. If it feels dry, go ahead and water. If it feels moist, wait a few more days.
- Drainage is Key: Never let your begonias sit in a saucer of standing water. This can lead to root rot.
- Fertilizer: Most begonias don't need fertilizer during the winter. Stop feeding them in late autumn and resume in the spring when you see new growth starting to pick up.
What to do next:
- Place your plants in an east or west window.
- Set up a pebble tray to boost humidity.
- Water only when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Managing Realistic Expectations
When you bring begonias inside, it is normal for them to go through an adjustment period. You might see a few leaves turn yellow and drop off during the first two weeks. Don't worry—this is just the plant's way of balancing itself as it adapts to lower light.
As long as you see healthy stems and the occasional new leaf, your plant is doing fine. If a plant looks a bit "leggy" or stretched out by mid-winter, don't be afraid to give it a little trim. Begonias are very resilient and usually respond to pruning with fresh, bushy growth.
Regional Timing and Zone Tips
For our friends in warmer climates, such as USDA zones 9 and 10, some begonias can actually stay outside all year round if they are in a protected spot. However, for the majority of the United States, begonias must come in before the first hard freeze.
We ship our begonias at the proper planting time for your specific zone, ensuring they arrive when the soil is ready. For details on timing and delivery, see our shipping information. When bringing them back in for the winter, a good rule of thumb is to monitor your local nighttime temperatures. When they consistently dip below 50°F, it is time to start the moving process.
Simple Troubleshooting for Winter Begonias
If your indoor begonia doesn't look its best, the solution is usually one of a few simple things. We always recommend changing one variable at a time to see how the plant responds.
Dropping Leaves
This is the most common issue. If it happens right after moving the plant inside, it's likely just adjustment. If it happens later in the winter, the plant might be too dry or sitting in a cold draft. Check your watering schedule and move the plant to a more stable location.
Crispy Leaf Edges
If the edges of the leaves are turning brown and crispy, your begonia is likely thirsty for humidity. Move it to a bathroom (where showers provide steam) or refresh the water in your pebble tray. Ensure it isn't sitting directly in front of a heater.
Mold or Mildew on Leaves
If you see white, fuzzy spots on the leaves, the air might be too stagnant or the leaves are getting too wet. Increase the air circulation by moving the plant to a larger room or using a small fan nearby. Remove any affected leaves to prevent the spread.
Leggy Growth
If the stems are long and bare with only a few leaves at the top, the plant is telling you it needs more light. Move it to a brighter window. You can also pinch back the tips of the stems to encourage the plant to grow more leaves lower down on the branches.
Key Takeaway: Most winter begonia issues are related to light, water, or humidity. Small adjustments usually result in a much happier plant.
Taking Cuttings: The Backup Plan
If you have a very large begonia that won't fit in your house, or if you are worried about moving a whole pot, taking cuttings is a wonderful "insurance policy." This is a fun and easy way to save your favorite varieties.
- Select a stem: Look for a healthy, green stem with at least two or three leaves.
- Cut: Use a clean knife or scissors to cut a 4-inch piece of the stem.
- Prepare: Remove the bottom leaves so you have a bare section of stem.
- Root: You can place the stem in a small jar of water or directly into a pot of moist vermiculite or perlite.
- Wait: In a few weeks, you will see small white roots forming. Once the roots are about an inch long, you can plant the cutting in a small pot of soil.
Cuttings take up very little space on a windowsill and will grow into full-sized plants by the time spring arrives. This is also a great way to "bank" your plants; if the original plant struggles, you have several young backups ready to go.
Transitioning Back to Spring
When the days begin to lengthen in March and April, your begonias will start to wake up. This is an exciting time!
- For Tuberous Begonias: Bring the tubers out of storage and place them in a bright, warm spot. You can start them in small pots with fresh soil about 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date. Place the tuber with the "hollow" side facing up, just at the soil surface.
- For Houseplant Begonias: Start increasing your watering and give them a light feeding with a balanced liquid fertilizer. This gives them the nutrients they need for a big burst of spring growth.
- Moving Outside: Wait until the nighttime temperatures are reliably above 50°F before moving your plants back to the patio or garden. Just like when you brought them in, move them out gradually. Start with an hour or two in a shaded spot and slowly increase their time outdoors over a week. If you want more seasonal shopping ideas, browse our Learn page.
Conclusion
Bringing your begonia plants inside for the winter is a rewarding way to extend the life of your garden and enjoy beautiful greenery year-round. Whether you choose to let your tuberous varieties rest in a cool basement or keep your Rex begonias glowing on a sunny windowsill, the process is straightforward and achievable for every gardener.
At Longfield Gardens, our mission is to help you grow a more beautiful world, one season at a time. We stand behind the quality of our plants with a 100% Quality Guarantee, and we are here to support you as your garden evolves from the bright days of summer to the quiet beauty of winter. With just a little bit of care, those favorite begonias will be ready to dazzle you again next year.
Next Steps for Winter Success:
- Identify whether your begonias are tuberous or fibrous rooted.
- Prepare a storage box for tubers or a bright windowsill for indoor plants.
- Reduce watering and stop fertilizing as the weather cools.
- Check out our selection of premium begonias at Longfield Gardens for your next spring display!
FAQ
Can I leave my tuberous begonias in their pots for the winter?
Yes, you can leave the tubers in their pots if the soil is allowed to dry out completely. Simply cut the stems back and move the entire pot to a cool, frost-free area like a garage. In the spring, you can gently remove the tuber, refresh the soil, and start watering again. For more help with timing, revisit the hardiness zone map.
Why did my Rex begonia lose all its leaves after I brought it inside?
Rex begonias are particularly sensitive to changes in humidity and light. If the environment is too dry, they may drop their leaves as a defense mechanism. Keep the soil lightly moist and use a pebble tray to increase humidity. Often, the plant will grow new leaves that are better suited to your indoor conditions.
Do I need to use a grow light for my begonias in the winter?
While not strictly necessary if you have a very bright east or west window, a grow light can be very helpful in northern climates where winter days are short. A simple LED shop light or a dedicated grow bulb can help prevent your begonias from becoming leggy and keep their colors vibrant. If you want a quick reminder about zone timing, see our shipping information.
How often should I water my dormant begonia tubers?
Dormant tubers should not be watered in the traditional sense. The goal is to keep them from drying out into "mummies" without making them wet enough to rot. If the packing material (like peat moss) feels bone-dry, give it a very light misting once a month. If the tubers feel firm, they are doing just fine.
