Can You Bring Begonia Plants Inside for the Winter?

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Understanding Your Begonia Type
3. Preparing to Move Begonias Indoors
4. Caring for Begonias as Houseplants
5. How to Overwinter Tuberous Begonias
6. Managing the Transition Back Outdoors
7. Common Challenges and Simple Fixes
8. The Joy of Overwintering
9. FAQ

Introduction

There is a special kind of satisfaction in seeing the vibrant, saturated colors of begonia flower bulbs lighting up a shaded corner of the porch or garden bed. These plants are beloved for their reliable blooms and stunning foliage, often serving as the centerpiece of summer containers. As the days grow shorter and the air turns crisp, many gardeners wonder if they have to say goodbye to these beautiful plants or if they can keep the color going indoors.

The wonderful news is that you certainly can bring begonia plants inside for the winter. While many people treat them as annuals, begonias are actually tropical perennials. With a little bit of preparation and the right care, you can enjoy them as houseplants or store them safely to bloom again next year. At Longfield Gardens, we enjoy helping gardeners extend the life of their favorite plants so they can enjoy a more beautiful landscape year after year.

This guide is designed for home gardeners who want to save their begonias from the first frost. We will cover how to identify which type of begonia you have with help from our Types of Begonias guide, the specific steps for moving them indoors, and how to ensure they thrive until spring returns. By following a few simple steps, you can protect your investment and enjoy these plants for many seasons to come.

Understanding Your Begonia Type

Before you bring your plants inside, it is important to know exactly which type of begonia you are growing. Different begonias have different biological needs during the winter. Some want to keep growing all year long, while others require a period of deep sleep, known as dormancy, to stay healthy.

Fibrous-Rooted Begonias (Wax Begonias)

These are the common "bedding" wax begonias often found in garden centers. They have succulent stems and waxy leaves that are either green or bronze. They produce clusters of small white, pink, or red flowers. These begonias do not have a dormant period. They can transition directly from the garden to a sunny windowsill and continue to grow as houseplants.

Cane-Stemmed Begonias (Angel Wing)

Cane begonias are easily identified by their long, upright stems that look a bit like bamboo. The most popular variety is the Angel Wing begonia, named for its long, pointed leaves that often feature silver spots. Like wax begonias, these do not go dormant. They are very successful as year-round houseplants and can grow quite large over time.

Rex Begonias

Rex begonias are grown primarily for their incredible foliage. Their leaves come in swirls of silver, purple, pink, and deep burgundy. These begonias grow from a thick, horizontal stem called a rhizome that sits right at the soil surface. They prefer high humidity and steady warmth, making them excellent candidates for indoor life, provided you can give them the right environment.

Tuberous Begonias

Tuberous begonias are known for their massive, rose-like blooms and cascading varieties. They grow from a brown, potato-like bulb called a tuber. Unlike the other types, tuberous begonias must go dormant in the winter. They will naturally begin to yellow and die back as the light levels drop in autumn. You cannot keep these growing as green houseplants all winter; they need to rest to produce flowers next year.

Key Takeaway: Always check the root system or stem structure of your plant. If it has a hard, woody bulb at the base, it is tuberous and needs a winter nap. If it has soft roots or a creeping rhizome, it can stay green and grow indoors.

Preparing to Move Begonias Indoors

Success starts with a smooth transition. Plants that have spent all summer outdoors in the fresh air and bright light can experience a bit of shock when moved into a climate-controlled home. The key is to start the process before the weather becomes too extreme.

Timing Your Move

Do not wait for the first frost to bring your begonias inside. Most begonias are tropical and will suffer damage if temperatures drop below 50°F. Ideally, you should bring them in when nighttime temperatures are consistently around 55°F to 60°F. If you want help matching your weather to planting windows, check the Hardiness Zone Map.

The Pest Inspection

The most common mistake gardeners make is bringing "hitchhikers" inside with their plants. Before moving any pot into your living room, give it a thorough inspection. Check the undersides of leaves for aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies.

It is also a good idea to gently spray the foliage with a garden hose to knock off any dust or hidden insects. For potted plants, check the drainage holes to make sure no slugs or ants have made a home in the soil. If you find pests, treat the plant with a mild insecticidal soap according to the label instructions before bringing it inside.

Potting Up Garden Plants

If your begonias are planted directly in the ground, you will need to lift them and put them into containers. For a step-by-step approach, see our How Do I Plant Begonias? guide. Use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix. Begonias have relatively shallow root systems, so choose a pot that is only slightly larger than the root ball.

1. Dig a wide circle around the plant to keep the roots intact.
2. Gently shake off excess garden soil.
3. Place the plant in a pot and fill in the gaps with fresh potting mix.
4. Water the plant well to settle the soil.

Caring for Begonias as Houseplants

Once your wax, cane, or Rex begonias are inside, they will need to adjust to their new environment. For more tips on keeping them happy indoors, see our Are Begonias Indoor Plants? guide. Indoor air is usually drier and the light is much less intense than it is outdoors.

Finding the Right Light

Outdoors, begonias often thrive in filtered shade. Indoors, "shade" is usually too dark. Place your plants in a spot that receives bright, indirect light. An east-facing or west-facing window is usually perfect. If you only have a south-facing window, place the plant a few feet back from the glass or use a sheer curtain to prevent the leaves from scorching. If the stems start to look "leggy" or stretched out, it is a sign that the plant needs more light.

Managing Humidity

One of the biggest challenges for begonias indoors is the dry air caused by home heating systems. Rex begonias, in particular, are sensitive to low humidity and may develop brown, crispy edges on their leaves.

To help your plants feel at home, place the pots on a pebble tray. Fill a shallow tray with small stones and add water until it is just below the tops of the pebbles. Set the pot on top of the stones. As the water evaporates, it creates a small zone of humidity around the leaves. Avoid misting the leaves directly, as this can encourage fungal issues like powdery mildew.

Watering and Fertilizing

Indoor plants grow more slowly in the winter, so they need less water and food. Use the "finger test" before watering: stick your finger about an inch into the soil. If it feels dry, give the plant a drink. If it feels moist, wait a few more days. Always ensure the pot has drainage holes so the roots never sit in standing water.

Stop fertilizing your begonias in late autumn. They do not need the extra nutrients while they are in their slow-growth winter phase. You can resume a regular feeding schedule in the spring when you see new, vigorous growth appearing.

What to do next:

• Choose a bright window away from cold drafts or heating vents.
• Set up a pebble tray to boost humidity naturally.
• Adjust your watering schedule to match the slower indoor growth.

How to Overwinter Tuberous Begonias

If you are growing tuberous begonias, such as the Non-Stop or Illumination varieties we carry at Longfield Gardens, your process will look a little different. These plants need to go dormant to recharge their energy for next summer’s display.

Step 1: Initiating Dormancy

In late summer or early fall, stop fertilizing your Non-Stop tuberous begonias. As temperatures cool and days get shorter, the plant will naturally start to look a bit tired. This is normal. When the first light frost hits and blackens the foliage, or when the leaves have turned mostly yellow, it is time to act.

Step 2: Digging the Tubers

Cut the stems back to about two or three inches above the soil line. If the plant is in a container, you can simply bring the whole pot into a dry, frost-free area like a garage or basement. If the plant is in the ground, use a garden fork to gently lift the tuber. Be careful not to nick or bruise it, as damaged tubers are more likely to rot.

Step 3: Curing and Cleaning

Before storing the tubers, they need to "cure" or dry out. Place them in a warm, dry, and shaded spot for about a week. This allows the outer skin to toughen up. Once they are dry, the remaining bits of stem should fall off easily. Gently brush away any loose soil, but do not wash them with water. Keeping them dry is essential for preventing rot.

Step 4: Winter Storage

Store your tubers in a cool, dark, and dry location where temperatures stay between 40°F and 50°F. A cool basement or an attached garage that doesn't freeze is ideal.

To keep the tubers from shriveling, pack them in a breathable container like a cardboard box or a paper bag. Fill the container with a dry insulating material such as:

• Peat moss
• Vermiculite
• Wood shavings
• Dry sand

Make sure the tubers are not touching each other. This prevents a single bad tuber from spreading rot to the others. Check on them once a month during the winter. If a tuber feels soft or mushy, discard it immediately.

Managing the Transition Back Outdoors

When spring arrives and the threat of frost has passed, it is time to wake your begonias up. This is an exciting moment for any gardener, as it signals the start of a new growing season.

Waking Up Tubers

In March or April, about six to eight weeks before the last expected frost, you can start your stored tubers indoors. For a fuller walkthrough, see our How to Start Tuberous Begonias Indoors guide. Place them in a shallow tray filled with damp potting mix, with the hollow side of the tuber facing up. Keep them in a warm spot with bright light. Once you see sprouts that are an inch or two tall, you can move them into their permanent pots.

Hardening Off Houseplants

For the begonias that spent the winter as houseplants, you cannot simply move them directly into the hot sun. They need to be "hardened off." This is the process of gradually acclimating them to outdoor conditions.

1. Start by placing them in a sheltered, shady spot for a few hours a day.
2. Gradually increase their time outside over the course of 7 to 10 days.
3. Slowly introduce them to the level of sunlight they will receive in their final summer location.
4. Keep a close eye on watering, as plants dry out much faster outdoors than they do inside.

Common Challenges and Simple Fixes

Gardening is a learning process, and bringing plants inside can sometimes present small hurdles. Most issues have very simple solutions.

Dropping Leaves

It is very common for a begonia to drop a few leaves shortly after moving inside. This is usually just the plant adjusting to lower light levels. Don't panic and don't overwater. Simply trim off the yellow leaves and give the plant time to settle. New leaves that grow indoors will be better adapted to the lower light.

Leggy Growth

If your cane or wax begonias are growing very long, thin stems with few leaves, they are reaching for light. Move them to a brighter window or consider using a simple LED grow light. You can also pinch back the tips of the stems to encourage the plant to grow bushier rather than taller.

Powdery Mildew

If you see a white, flour-like dust on the leaves, it is likely powdery mildew. This is caused by poor air circulation and high humidity. To fix this, make sure your plants aren't crowded too closely together. You can also use a small fan to keep the air moving gently around your indoor garden.

Key Takeaway: Most winter begonia problems are caused by too much water or too little light. When in doubt, let the soil dry out and move the plant closer to a window.

The Joy of Overwintering

Taking the time to bring your begonias inside is a rewarding practice that connects the seasons. It turns a summer flower into a year-round companion and saves you the cost of buying new plants every spring. Whether you are keeping a lush Angel Wing begonia on your desk or storing Non-Stop tubers in the basement, you are participating in a timeless gardening tradition.

At Longfield Gardens, we believe that gardening should be an enjoyable, accessible activity for everyone. Our 100% Quality Guarantee reflects that commitment and helps gardeners move forward with confidence. Successfully overwintering your plants is a great "easy win" that builds confidence and helps you create a more mature, beautiful garden over time.

Final Action Plan:

• Identify your begonia type (Tuberous vs. Non-tuberous).
• Bring non-tuberous types inside before temperatures hit 50°F.
• Dig and cure tuberous types after the first light frost.
• Keep care simple: bright light, moderate water, and no winter fertilizer.

FAQ

Can I leave my begonias in the ground over winter?

In most parts of the United States, begonias will not survive the winter in the ground because they cannot tolerate freezing temperatures. If you live in a frost-free climate (USDA zones 9 or 10), some varieties may survive outdoors, but for most gardeners, bringing them inside or storing the tubers is necessary to keep them alive.

Should I prune my begonias before bringing them inside?

It is a good idea to do some light pruning. Removing dead or damaged leaves and spent flowers helps prevent mold and pests. For very large cane begonias, you can trim them back by about a third to make them more manageable for indoor spaces. This also encourages the plant to grow new, healthy foliage that is better adapted to indoor light.

How often should I water stored begonia tubers?

Stored tubers should not be watered at all. The goal is to keep them dormant and dry to prevent rot. The packing material (like peat moss or vermiculite) should be dry or only very slightly damp. If the tubers look extremely shriveled in mid-winter, you can give the packing material a very light misting of water, but the tubers themselves should stay dry.

Why is my Rex begonia losing its color indoors?

The intense colors of Rex begonias are often fueled by light. If the leaves are turning mostly green or looking dull, the plant likely needs more light. Move it to a brighter window, but keep it out of direct, hot afternoon sun, which can burn the delicate foliage. Providing a bit of supplemental light from a grow light can also help maintain those vibrant patterns.