Introduction
One of the most rewarding parts of summer gardening is watching the lush, colorful blooms of begonias fill your pots and garden beds. Whether you love the massive, rose-like flowers of tuberous varieties or the striking, metallic patterns of Rex foliage, it is natural to want to keep that beauty going. Instead of saying goodbye to your plants when the first frost arrives, you can bring them inside to enjoy for another season.
Can you keep begonias over winter? The answer is a definitive yes. Whether you have them in decorative pots, hanging baskets, or garden beds, you can keep begonias over winter by either storing their tubers in a dormant state or bringing the plants indoors as houseplants.
At Longfield Gardens, we want to help you get the most out of every plant you grow. While many people treat begonias as annuals, most are actually tender perennials. This means they are capable of living for many years if they are protected from freezing temperatures. Successfully keeping them through the winter involves a few simple steps, mostly depending on which type of begonia you have in your collection.
This guide is designed for any gardener who wants to save their favorite begonias for next year. We will cover the different methods for overwintering, from storing dormant tubers to growing them as indoor houseplants. By understanding what your specific plant needs during its rest period, you can ensure it returns even bigger and better next summer.
Identifying Your Begonia Type
Before you bring anything indoors, you need to know which type of begonia you are growing. Different species have very different "sleep" schedules. If you treat a plant that wants to grow all winter as if it were dormant, it might struggle. Conversely, trying to force a tuberous begonia to stay awake all year can exhaust the plant.
Tuberous Begonias (Begonia × tuberhybrida)
These are the showstoppers of the shade garden. They grow from a thick, brown, potato-like underground structure called a tuber. Popular varieties like the Non Stop or Illumination series fall into this category. Tuberous begonias naturally want to go dormant in the winter. They will drop their leaves and stems, retreating into the tuber to rest. These are the easiest to overwinter because they can be stored in a box in a cool, dark closet.
Rex and Foliage Begonias
Rex begonias are grown primarily for their incredible leaves, which can feature swirls of silver, purple, and deep red. These begonias do not have a mandatory dormant period. Instead of going to sleep, they can transition into life as a houseplant. They are well-suited for indoor life because they already prefer the lower light levels found inside a typical home.
Rhizomatous Begonias
These begonias grow from a thick, creeping stem called a rhizome that sits near the soil surface. Common varieties like the "Iron Cross" begonia are beloved for their fuzzy textures and bold patterns. Like Rex types, these do not go dormant and are best kept as houseplants over the winter.
Wax and Fibrous Begonias
Commonly used as bedding plants in the landscape, wax begonias have smaller flowers and glossy, succulent-like leaves. They have a fibrous root system rather than a tuber. Like Rex begonias, these do not go dormant. You can pot them up and keep them on a sunny windowsill where they will often continue to bloom throughout the winter months.
It is worth noting that the plant commonly called a strawberry begonia (Saxifraga stolonifera) is not a true begonia at all. It is much hardier and has different care needs, so ensure you have a true Begonia before following these overwintering steps.
Cane and Angel Wing Begonias
Cane begonias, such as the Dragon Wing, are known for their tall, bamboo-like stems and wing-shaped leaves. These are vigorous growers that can become quite large. They are excellent candidates for overwintering as houseplants. While they might grow more slowly in the winter, they provide beautiful vertical interest in an indoor plant collection.
Key Takeaway: Identifying your begonia is the first step. Tuberous types need a "winter nap" in storage, while Rex, Wax, and Cane types prefer to stay awake as houseplants.
Deciding Your Approach: Pots, Baskets, or Ground?
Before you begin the overwintering process, consider where your plant is currently growing to determine your first steps.
- Hanging Baskets and Containers: These are the easiest to transition. You can simply move the entire pot inside for houseplant types. For tuberous types, you can let the soil dry out right in the container before lifting the tubers for storage.
- In-Ground Plants: If your begonias are in garden beds, you will need to lift them. Tuberous types are lifted and cured for storage. For fibrous, cane, or Rex types, you must carefully dig them up and repot them into containers using fresh potting mix before bringing them indoors.
Method 1: Overwintering Tuberous Begonias via Dormancy
If you are growing tuberous varieties like the "On Top" or "Illumination" series, the goal is to store the tuber itself. This process is very similar to how you might save dahlia tubers or gladiolus corms. Because these plants are native to regions with distinct wet and dry seasons, they are genetically programmed to rest.
Preparing for Dormancy
In late summer or early fall, you will notice your begonias starting to look a bit tired. This is a natural signal that they are ready for a break. To help them along, start by reducing the amount of water you provide. Let the soil dry out more than usual. This encourages the plant to move its energy from the leaves down into the tuber.
Wait until the first light frost kills the top growth, or until the foliage has turned mostly yellow. A light frost won't hurt the tuber underground, but you must dig them up before the ground freezes hard.
Digging and Curing
Gently lift the plants from the soil using a garden trowel or fork. Be careful not to nick or bruise the tuber, as wounds can lead to rot during storage. Cut the stems back, leaving about an inch or two attached to the tuber.
"Curing" is the process of letting the tuber dry out slightly so it forms a protective skin. Place your tubers in a dry, shaded area—like a garage or a porch—for about a week. Shaking off excess soil once it is dry is much easier than trying to scrub them clean when the soil is wet and muddy.
Storing for the Winter
Once the tubers are dry and the remaining stem stubs have shriveled and fallen off, they are ready for long-term storage.
- Storage Containers: Use a cardboard box, a paper bag, or a plastic bin with the lid left slightly ajar.
- Packing Material: Surround the tubers with a dry, insulating material. Peat moss, vermiculite, or even shredded newspaper works well. This prevents the tubers from touching each other and helps regulate moisture.
- The Right Spot: Place the box in a cool, dark, and dry location. A basement or an unheated (but frost-free) closet is ideal. The temperature should ideally stay between 45°F and 55°F.
Troubleshooting Stored Tubers
- Inspection Frequency: Check your stored tubers once a month. This small habit prevents a single rotting tuber from spoiling the whole batch.
- If a tuber feels soft or mushy: This is rot. Use a clean knife to cut away the soft part until you reach healthy white tissue, then let it air dry. If the rot is extensive, discard the tuber.
- If a tuber looks very shriveled: It has lost too much moisture. Do not soak it; instead, lightly mist the peat moss or packing material to slightly increase the humidity around the tuber.
What to Do Next: Tuber Storage Checklist
- Reduce water in late summer to trigger the rest phase.
- Dig up tubers after the first frost or when leaves turn yellow.
- Cure tubers in a dry spot for 7 days.
- Pack in dry peat moss or vermiculite.
- Store in a cool, dark place (45°F–55°F).
Method 2: Growing Begonias as Houseplants
For Rex, Wax, and Cane begonias, you don’t need to worry about storage boxes. These plants can simply move from your porch or garden bed right into your living room. Because they are tropical plants, they will thrive in the same temperatures that humans find comfortable.
Transitioning Indoors
Moving a plant from the high humidity and bright light of the outdoors to the dry, dimmer environment of a house can be a shock. To make it easier, bring your plants inside before you turn on your home's heating system. This allows them to acclimate while the indoor air is still relatively humid.
Pre-Indoor Pest and Disease Quarantine
Before bringing plants in, perform a thorough inspection to ensure you aren't inviting pests into your home.
- Inspect: Check the undersides of leaves and stem joints for spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, or scale.
- Sanitize: Give the foliage and stems a gentle wash with a garden hose to dislodge hitchhikers.
- Clean Up: Remove any dead leaves or spent blooms where mold or pests might hide.
- Isolate: If possible, keep your "outdoor" plants in a separate room from your existing houseplants for the first two weeks to ensure no hidden issues emerge.
Light and Water Requirements
Indoors, begonias prefer bright, indirect light. An east-facing or west-facing window is usually perfect. If you notice the plant reaching toward the window or becoming "leggy" (having long stems with few leaves), it likely needs more light.
Watering is the most important part of indoor care. "Drainage" is a term gardeners use to describe how fast water leaves the soil. Begonias hate sitting in soggy soil, which can lead to root rot. Wait until the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch before watering. When you do water, do it thoroughly until water runs out the bottom of the pot, then empty the saucer so the plant isn't standing in water.
Winter Maintenance Cadence
During the winter months, your indoor begonias are in a "holding" phase.
- Fertilizing: We recommend stopping all fertilizing from October through February. The plants are not growing actively enough to use the extra nutrients, and salt buildup in the soil can damage the roots.
- Pinching Back: If your cane or wax begonias start to look sparse, use your fingers to pinch back the tips of the stems. This encourages the plant to branch out and stay bushy.
Managing Humidity
Standard indoor air in the winter is very dry, which can cause the edges of begonia leaves to turn brown and crispy. You can help your plants by creating a "mini-greenhouse" effect without much effort.
- Pebble Trays: Fill a shallow tray with small stones and add water until it is just below the tops of the stones. Set your plant pot on top of the stones. As the water evaporates, it creates a humid microclimate around the leaves.
- Grouping Plants: Plants naturally release moisture through their leaves. By grouping several plants together, they help keep the air humid for one another.
- Avoid Misting: While it seems helpful, misting leaves can sometimes encourage fungal issues like powdery mildew. The pebble tray method is much more effective for long-term humidity.
Key Takeaway: Most non-tuberous begonias make excellent houseplants. Focus on bright indirect light, careful watering, and boosting humidity to keep them happy until spring.
Timing and Temperature: The Golden Rules
Success with begonias often comes down to timing. These are heat-loving plants that have no "anti-freeze" in their systems. This means that even a single night of temperatures below 32°F can cause significant damage to the foliage.
When to Bring Them In
We recommend keeping a close eye on your local weather forecast starting in mid-September. Most begonias will stop growing when night temperatures consistently drop below 50°F. This is the ideal time to move your "houseplant" types indoors. If you wait until it is 35°F outside, the transition to a 70°F house will be much harder on the plant.
The Hardy Begonia Exception
While most begonias are tropical, Begonia grandis (specifically Begonia grandis subsp. evansiana) is a notable exception. This species is hardy to Zone 6. In these climates, you can actually leave the plant in the ground over winter. Simply cut back the foliage after it has been killed by frost and apply a 3-inch layer of mulch for protection. For all other premium varieties, indoor protection is the only way to ensure survival.
USDA Hardiness Zones
In the United States, your "zone" tells you how cold your winters get. Most begonias are only hardy in Zones 9 or 10, where it rarely freezes. If you live in Zone 7 or colder, you must overwinter them indoors. In Zone 8, some gardeners have success with heavy mulching, but for the varieties we carry at Longfield Gardens, bringing them inside is the safest bet.
What to Do Next: Indoor Transition Tips
- Bring plants in when night temperatures hit 50°F.
- Wash the leaves and check for pests before they enter the house.
- Use a pebble tray to combat dry indoor air.
- Place near an east-facing window for gentle morning sun.
Common Challenges and Easy Wins
Gardening should be a relaxing hobby, not a source of stress. If you encounter a problem while overwintering your begonias, remember that most issues have a very simple fix.
Leaf Drop
It is very common for a begonia to drop a few leaves shortly after moving indoors. Don't panic! The plant is simply adjusting to the lower light levels. It is shedding the leaves it no longer has enough energy to support. As long as the stems look firm and healthy, new leaves that are better adapted to indoor light will grow back soon.
Leggy Growth
If your cane or wax begonias are growing tall and skinny with lots of space between the leaves, they are "stretching" for light. You can simply pinch back the tips of the stems with your fingers. This encourages the plant to grow bushier rather than taller. Moving the plant a few inches closer to the light source will also help.
Preventing Rot
The biggest threat to a dormant tuber or an indoor begonia is too much water. For dormant tubers, "dry" is the keyword. If the packing material feels damp, it can cause the tuber to mold. For indoor plants, always use the "finger test" before watering. If the soil is still moist, wait another day. It is always better to underwater a begonia slightly than to overwater it.
Waking Up Your Begonias in Spring
One of the most exciting moments for a gardener is seeing the first signs of life in the spring. If you have stored tubers, you can give them a head start by "waking them up" indoors about 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date in your area.
Starting Stored Tubers
Take your tubers out of their storage box in late February or March. Look for small, pinkish buds (often called "eyes") on the concave (hollowed-out) side of the tuber.
- Place the tubers in a shallow tray filled with damp potting mix.
- Position the tuber so the hollow side faces up and is just barely covered with soil.
- Keep the tray in a warm, bright spot.
- Water sparingly until you see green shoots poking through the soil. Once the shoots are a few inches tall, you can move them into their permanent summer pots.
Acclimatizing Houseplants
For the begonias you kept as houseplants, spring is the time to start a regular fertilizing routine. We recommend using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer at half-strength once every two weeks to encourage new growth.
When the weather warms up and nights stay above 55°F, you can begin moving your plants back outside. This should be a gradual process called "hardening off." Put them in a shady, sheltered spot for a few hours a day, slowly increasing their time outdoors over a week or two. This prevents the leaves from getting "sunburned" by the intense outdoor light.
What to Do Next: Spring Revival Steps
- Check stored tubers for pink "eyes" in early spring.
- Plant tubers in shallow trays with the hollow side up.
- Increase watering and start fertilizing indoor plants as days get longer.
- Wait for warm nights (55°F+) before moving plants back outside.
The Joy of Multi-Year Begonias
There is a unique satisfaction in seeing a plant you saved from the winter bloom again the following year. Not only do you save money by not having to buy new plants every spring, but begonias actually tend to get better with age. Tuberous varieties will grow larger tubers each year, which in turn produce more stems and more flowers.
At Longfield Gardens, we have seen this firsthand in our trial gardens. A three-year-old tuber can produce a plant that is significantly more impressive than a first-year seedling. By following these simple overwintering steps, you are investing in a more beautiful future for your garden.
Gardening is a journey of learning what works best in your unique home and climate. Whether you choose the simplicity of storing a box of dormant tubers or the daily enjoyment of an indoor Rex begonia, you are taking a step toward becoming a more confident gardener.
Conclusion
Overwintering begonias is a simple and rewarding way to extend the life of your favorite plants. By identifying whether your variety needs a dormant rest or can thrive as a houseplant, you take the guesswork out of winter care. Remember that success comes from getting a few basics right: timing your move indoors, managing moisture carefully, and providing the right light.
We are here to support you in creating a garden that brings you joy season after season. If you ever have questions about your plants or need advice on which varieties are best for your space, our team is always ready to help.
Your begonias are more resilient than they look. With a little protection from the cold and a bit of patience, they will be ready to brighten your garden again next summer.
Next Steps:
- Check your local frost date to plan your indoor move.
- Gather storage supplies like peat moss and cardboard boxes.
- Visit our website to explore new begonia varieties to add to your collection next spring.
FAQ
Can I overwinter all types of begonias the same way?
No, the method depends on the root system. Tuberous begonias (like Non-Stop) prefer to go dormant and have their tubers stored in a cool, dry place. Fibrous, Rex, Rhizomatous, and Cane begonias do not go dormant and should be brought indoors as houseplants where they can continue to grow in bright, indirect light.
How do I know if my begonia tuber is still healthy during winter?
Check your stored tubers once a month. A healthy tuber should feel firm, like a fresh potato. If you notice any soft or mushy spots, those are signs of rot and should be cut away or the tuber discarded. If the tuber looks very shriveled, you can lightly mist the packing material (not the tuber itself) to add a tiny bit of moisture.
When is it safe to move my begonias back outside in the spring?
Begonias are very sensitive to cold. You should wait until the danger of frost has completely passed and night temperatures are consistently above 55°F. Moving them out too early can stunt their growth or damage the tender new leaves. Always remember to "harden them off" by gradually increasing their time outdoors over 7–10 days.
Why are my begonia leaves turning brown on the edges indoors?
This is usually caused by low humidity or inconsistent watering. Indoor air in winter is often very dry because of home heating. To fix this, place your plant on a pebble tray with water or group it with other plants to increase the local humidity. Also, ensure you are watering only when the top inch of soil is dry to avoid both underwatering and root rot.
Should I fertilize my indoor begonias during the winter?
We recommend stopping all fertilization during the winter months while the plants are in their slower growth phase. Start fertilizing again in early spring once you see active new growth appearing and daylight hours begin to increase.
Can I leave my begonias in the ground if I live in a warm climate?
In USDA Zones 9 and 10, many begonias can survive in the ground year-round. In Zone 8, some gardeners have success with heavy mulching. However, Begonia grandis is the only variety truly considered hardy down to Zone 6. For all other types in cooler zones, they must be brought indoors.
