Introduction
There is nothing quite like the sight of begonias in full bloom. These plants are the undisputed stars of the shade garden, offering lush foliage and brilliant flowers that light up dark corners from early summer until the first frost. Whether you are growing trailing varieties in hanging baskets or upright types in your garden beds, begonias provide a level of color and texture that few other shade-loving plants can match. At Longfield Gardens, we believe every gardener should experience the reward of these versatile plants, and one of the most common questions we hear is whether they will come back to visit the garden next year.
The short answer is that begonias are perennials, but they are "tender" perennials. This means they do not naturally survive freezing temperatures in most parts of the United States. However, with just a little bit of help and the right timing, you can absolutely enjoy your favorite begonias year after year. This guide is for any home gardener who wants to move beyond treating begonias as "one-season" annuals and learn the simple steps to keep them thriving for many seasons to come.
Understanding how begonias grow and what they need during the winter is the secret to a more beautiful and sustainable garden. We will cover the differences between types, how to store them for the winter, and how to wake them up in the spring for another round of spectacular blooms.
Understanding Begonia Growth Habits
To answer the question of whether begonias grow back, we first need to look at how these plants are built. In their native tropical and subtropical habitats, begonias grow all year round. In the United States, we categorize them based on how they survive the winter.
Most begonias you find at the garden center are sold as annuals. This does not mean the plant is programmed to die after one year; it simply means the plant cannot survive a typical North American winter outdoors. If you live in a very warm climate, such as parts of Florida or Southern California (USDA zones 10 and 11), your begonias might stay green and continue growing outside all year. For the rest of us, "growing back" requires a specific overwintering strategy. The Hardiness Zone Map can help you identify your growing zone.
There are three main groups of begonias you likely have in your garden:
- Tuberous Begonias: These grow from a thick, potato-like root called a tuber. They are the easiest to grow back because the tuber acts as a battery, storing energy for the next year.
- Fibrous-Rooted Begonias (Wax Begonias): These have a typical root system and are often used as bedding plants. They do not have a storage organ, so they must be kept as houseplants over the winter if you want them to survive.
- Rhizomatous and Rex Begonias: These are primarily grown for their stunning leaves. They grow from a thick stem (rhizome) that sits on the soil surface. Like wax begonias, they need to stay in a climate-controlled environment to survive the winter.
Key Takeaway: Most begonias are technically perennials, but they need protection from the cold. Tuberous varieties are the most common choice for gardeners who want a plant that can be stored and replanted every spring.
The Secret of Tuberous Begonias
If your goal is to have a plant that "grows back" from a dormant state, tuberous begonias are your best friend. These varieties, including the popular 'Non-Stop' and 'Illumination' series, are designed by nature to go through a rest period.
The tuber is the key. During the summer, the leaves of the plant catch sunlight and turn it into energy, which is then pumped down into the tuber. As the days get shorter and the temperatures drop in the fall, the plant begins to shift its focus. It stops producing new flowers and starts preparing for sleep.
In the spring, that stored energy is what pushes out the first new sprouts. Because the plant starts the season with a pre-charged "battery," tuberous begonias often grow faster and bloom more vigorously in their second and third years than they did in their first.
Why Dormancy Matters
You might wonder why you can't just keep a tuberous begonia growing in a sunny window all winter. While it is possible, it is not ideal for the plant's long-term health. Tuberous begonias actually need a period of dormancy to reset. Without this rest, the plant can become leggy, weak, and more susceptible to pests. Think of dormancy as a long winter nap that allows the plant to come back refreshed and ready to produce those giant, rose-like blooms we love.
How to Overwinter Tuberous Begonias
Successfully getting your tuberous begonias to grow back starts in late summer. You don’t need a greenhouse or fancy equipment—just a cool, dry place and a little bit of patience. For a detailed overview, see this guide to wintering over begonia plants.
Step 1: Prepare for Sleep
In late September or early October, start reducing the amount of water you give your begonias. As the weather cools, the plant will naturally start to look a bit tired. The leaves may turn yellow, and the stems might begin to droop. This is a good sign! It means the plant is moving its nutrients from the foliage into the tuber.
Wait until the first light frost kills the top growth, or until you are expecting a hard freeze. A light touch of frost on the leaves won't hurt the tuber underground, but it serves as a "wake-up call" for the plant to go dormant.
Step 2: Dig and Cure
Carefully lift the tubers from the soil using a garden fork or a small trowel. Be gentle; you don't want to nick or bruise the tuber, as this can lead to rot during storage. Shake off the excess soil, but don't worry about getting them perfectly clean.
Cut the stems back to about an inch or two above the tuber. Then, find a dry, warm spot (like a garage or a porch) where the tubers can "cure" for about a week. This drying period allows the outer skin of the tuber to toughen up, which protects it from drying out too much or rotting while it’s stored.
Step 3: Proper Storage
Once the tubers are dry and any remaining bits of stem have shriveled up and fallen off, it’s time for long-term storage.
- Containers: Use a cardboard box, a paper bag, or a plastic bin with the lid left slightly ajar.
- Medium: Pack the tubers in dry peat moss, coco coir, sawdust, or even shredded newspaper. This prevents the tubers from touching each other and helps maintain a very slight amount of moisture so they don't turn into shriveled pebbles.
- Temperature: Store the box in a cool, dark, and dry place. A basement or an unheated (but frost-free) closet is perfect. The ideal temperature is between 40°F and 50°F.
What to do next:
- Mark your calendar for late September to start reducing water.
- Gather storage supplies like peat moss and cardboard boxes before the first frost.
- Check your stored tubers once a month during winter to ensure they stay firm and rot-free.
Bringing Wax Begonias Indoors
Wax begonias (fibrous-rooted) do not have tubers, so they cannot be stored in a box in the basement. If you want these to grow back next year, you have to keep them growing as houseplants.
Wax begonias are actually quite happy indoors if they have enough light. They are often sold in small "cell packs" for garden borders, but if you plant them in pots, you can simply move the pots inside when the temperature drops below 50°F.
Light and Water Requirements
Indoors, wax begonias need a very bright window. A south-facing window is usually best during the winter months when the sun is lower in the sky. They prefer "even" moisture—not too wet and not too dry.
Because indoor air is often very dry due to home heating systems, your begonias might appreciate a pebble tray. Simply fill a shallow tray with pebbles and water, and set the pot on top. As the water evaporates, it creates a little pocket of humidity around the leaves.
Pruning for Success
When you bring wax begonias inside, they might look a bit "leggy" or stretched out. Don't be afraid to give them a haircut! Cutting the stems back by about a third will encourage the plant to grow new, bushy foliage. This also makes the plant more manageable for indoor life.
The Unique Case of Rex and Rhizomatous Begonias
Rex begonias are famous for their metallic silver, deep purple, and swirl-patterned leaves. These are almost always grown in containers and are frequently kept as houseplants year-round. However, many gardeners use them as "filler" plants in outdoor summer containers.
Like wax begonias, Rex types will not grow back if they are left outside in the frost. To save them, bring them inside before the first frost. These begonias are particularly sensitive to "wet feet." In the winter, they grow more slowly, which means they need significantly less water than they did during the hot summer months. Always let the top inch of soil dry out before you water them again.
Will Hardy Begonias Grow Back on Their Own?
There is one notable exception to the "begonias are tender" rule: Begonia grandis, also known as the Hardy Begonia. If you want a begonia that truly grows back on its own without you having to dig it up or move it, this is the plant for you.
Hardy begonias are typically reliable in USDA zones 6 through 9. They have beautiful heart-shaped leaves with red undersides and delicate pink flowers that appear in late summer.
- Winter Strategy: They survive the winter by producing tiny "bulbils" (miniature tubers) in the leaf axils. These drop to the ground, and the main root system also stays alive underground.
- Spring Emergence: Be patient with hardy begonias! they are famous for being "late risers." They may not show any signs of life until late May or even June. Many gardeners accidentally dig them up thinking they died, only to realize the plant was just waiting for the soil to truly warm up.
Starting Your Begonias in the Spring
The most exciting part of the process is when you see those first signs of life in the spring. For tuberous begonias, this usually happens in March or April.
Checking the Tubers
Take your tubers out of storage and give them a gentle squeeze. They should feel firm, like a fresh potato. If any feel mushy or hollow, discard them. If they look very shriveled, you can mist them lightly with water to help them rehydrate.
The "Wake-Up" Process
To get a head start on the season, you can start your tubers indoors about 6 to 8 weeks before the last expected frost. For more guidance, see this begonia growing guide.
- Find the Top: Tuberous begonias have a "hollow" or concave side and a rounded side. The hollow side is the top where the sprouts will come from.
- Planting Depth: Place the tubers on top of a tray of moist potting soil. You don't need to bury them deep; just press them into the soil so the top is level with the surface.
- Warmth and Light: Place the tray in a warm spot (about 70°F). You don't need bright light until you see the first pink or green "nubs" poking out. Once they start growing, move them to a sunny window or under a grow light.
Moving Outdoors
Wait until the threat of frost is completely gone and the nights are consistently above 50°F before moving your begonias outside. At our facility in Lakewood, New Jersey, we always wait for the soil to warm up before planting. Begonias love warmth, and putting them out in cold, damp spring soil can stunt their growth or cause the tubers to rot. For seasonal timing and shipping schedules, see Longfield Gardens' shipping information.
Key Takeaway: Waking begonias up indoors gives them a massive head start. By the time the weather is warm enough for them to be outside, they will already have several leaves and perhaps even their first flower buds.
Right Plant, Right Place for Best Returns
If you want your begonias to be healthy enough to grow back year after year, you need to make sure they are happy during the summer. A stressed plant won't store enough energy in its roots to survive the winter. Browse summer flowers for shade for plants suited to lower-light garden locations.
- Light: Most begonias prefer filtered light or morning sun. If they are in the scorching afternoon sun, their leaves will burn. If they are in deep, dark shade, they will become leggy and won't bloom well.
- Drainage: This is the most important rule for begonias. They must have soil that drains quickly. Whether in a pot or the ground, if the roots sit in water, they will rot. "Drainage" simply means how fast water leaves the soil; for begonias, it should disappear almost immediately after watering.
- Airflow: Begonias can be prone to powdery mildew (a white fuzzy coating on the leaves) if the air is stagnant. Give them a little breathing room by not crowding them too closely with other plants.
Troubleshooting: Why Didn't My Begonias Grow Back?
Even with the best care, sometimes a plant doesn't return. If your begonias failed to grow back, it is usually due to one of three things:
- The Tuber Rotted in Storage: This usually happens if the tuber was put away while it was still wet or if the storage area was too humid. Make sure they are "cured" (dried) for a full week before packing them away.
- The Tuber Dried Out Completely: If the storage area is too dry or too warm, the tuber can lose all its moisture and turn into a hard, dead "stone." Using a packing medium like slightly damp peat moss helps prevent this.
- Planted Too Early in Spring: If you move your begonias outside while the ground is still cold and soggy, the tuber may rot before it has a chance to start growing. Wait for the "sweet spot" of warm days and mild nights.
Simple Gardening Rules for Begonias
At Longfield Gardens, we want to make your gardening experience as successful as possible. Keeping begonias for multiple years is a great way to build a collection of large, impressive plants without having to buy new ones every season.
Remember the basics:
- Match the method to the type: Box and store tuberous types; keep wax and Rex types as houseplants.
- Watch the temperature: 50°F is the "magic number." Below this, begonias start to get uncomfortable.
- Water with care: Deep watering followed by a period of drying is better than keeping the soil constantly saturated.
The Rewarding Cycle of Begonia Care
There is a special satisfaction in seeing a begonia tuber that you saved yourself begin to sprout in the spring. It turns gardening from a series of one-off purchases into a rewarding, multi-year relationship with your plants.
As your tubers get older, they will naturally grow larger. A tuber that started out the size of a quarter might be the size of a grapefruit after three or four years. These larger tubers produce massive plants with hundreds of flowers, creating a "flower power" impact that is hard to achieve with brand-new nursery starts.
Conclusion
Begonias are among the most versatile and beautiful plants you can add to your home and garden. While most varieties won't survive a cold winter outdoors on their own, the process of helping them grow back is simple and achievable for any gardener. By understanding whether you have a tuberous, fibrous, or rhizomatous variety, you can choose the right overwintering strategy to ensure another season of spectacular color. We invite you to explore the begonia varieties available at Longfield Gardens and start your own tradition of year-after-year blooms.
- Identify your begonia type before the first frost.
- Store tuberous begonias in a cool, dry place in peat moss.
- Bring foliage and wax begonias inside to live as houseplants.
- Start tubers indoors in early spring for the best summer display.
Waking up a stored begonia tuber is one of the first signs that spring has truly arrived. It’s a simple, low-cost way to ensure your garden is even more beautiful this year than it was last.
FAQ
Do all begonias come back every year?
Technically, all begonias are perennials, but they are only hardy enough to stay outdoors year-round in very warm climates (Zones 10–11). In most of the U.S., tuberous begonias must be dug up and stored, while other types must be brought indoors as houseplants to survive the winter.
When should I dig up my begonia tubers?
You should dig up your tuberous begonias in late fall, usually after the first light frost has blackened the foliage. This frost signals to the plant that it is time for dormancy, but you must lift the tubers before a hard freeze reaches the root zone.
Can I leave begonias in the ground over winter?
Only the "Hardy Begonia" (Begonia grandis) can stay in the ground in zones 6 through 9. For all other common garden begonias, the freezing winter temperatures will turn the plants and tubers to mush, so they must be brought into a frost-free environment.
How do I know if my begonia tuber is still alive?
A healthy begonia tuber should feel firm and heavy for its size, similar to a fresh potato. If the tuber is mushy, it has rotted; if it is extremely light, shriveled, and brittle, it has likely dried out completely and will not grow back.
