Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Understanding Tuberous Begonias
- Selecting the Right Varieties
- Timing and Starting Tubers Indoors
- Choosing the Perfect Location
- Planting Outdoors
- Ongoing Care and Maintenance
- Managing Plant Health
- Overwintering and Storage
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Introduction
There is something truly magical about walking into a shaded corner of the garden and finding it filled with glowing, rose-like blooms. While many shade-loving plants focus on foliage, tuberous begonias offer some of the most spectacular flowers in the plant world. These tropical beauties produce large, vibrant blossoms in a wide range of colors, from soft pastels to fiery oranges and reds. Whether you are looking to brighten a dark porch with hanging baskets or add elegance to a garden bed, these plants are a rewarding choice.
At Longfield Gardens, we want to help you bring this level of beauty to your home with ease. Tuberous begonias are surprisingly simple to grow once you understand a few of their basic preferences. This guide will walk you through everything from starting your tubers indoors to caring for them throughout the summer and storing them for next year. By following these straightforward steps, you can enjoy a season full of lush, continuous color.
Understanding Tuberous Begonias
Tuberous begonias are tender perennials that grow from a thickened, underground stem called a tuber. They are native to tropical regions of South America and southern Africa, which explains their love for warmth and humidity. Unlike the small wax begonias often used as bedding plants, tuberous varieties are known for their massive, intricate flowers that can reach up to six inches across.
One of the most interesting things about these plants is that they are monoecious. This means a single plant produces both male and female flowers. The male flowers are usually the "showstoppers"—large, double, and very ornate. The female flowers are smaller and typically single, appearing on either side of the male bloom. Together, they create a full, balanced look that lasts from midsummer right up until the first frost.
We categorize tuberous begonias into two main growth habits: upright and cascading. Upright varieties are perfect for garden borders, window boxes, and large pots where they can stand tall and show off their blooms. Cascading or "Pendula" types are specifically bred to spill over the edges of hanging baskets, creating a waterfall of color.
Selecting the Right Varieties
Choosing the right begonia depends on where you plan to grow it. Because we maintain a trial garden to evaluate performance, we have seen firsthand how different varieties shine in different settings.
Upright Begonias for Beds and Pots
If you want big, bold flowers that look like roses or camellias, upright varieties are the way to go.
- Roseform: These produce exceptionally large, double flowers with petals that whorl toward the center, much like a classic rose. Begonia Upright Double Roseform Pink
- Ruffled or Fimbriata: These have unique, fringed edges on the petals, giving them a frilly, carnation-like appearance.
- Nonstop Series: A favorite for many gardeners, these plants are bred to bloom early and continue "nonstop" through the heat of summer. They have a compact habit and stay tidy in containers. Non-Stop Begonias
- Marmorata: These stunning bicolors feature white or light-colored petals with "marbled" edges in shades of red or pink.
Cascading Begonias for Hanging Baskets
To create a lush, overflowing look in a hanging planter, look for varieties labeled as "Pendula" or cascading.
- Illumination Series: These are famous for their long, trailing stems and an abundance of smaller, double flowers. They create a very full, rounded shape in a basket.
- Odora: If you want a sensory experience, some cascading types are lightly fragrant, adding a sweet scent to your porch or patio.
Key Takeaway: Match the growth habit to your container. Use upright types for pots and garden beds, and choose cascading types for hanging baskets to get that beautiful trailing effect.
Timing and Starting Tubers Indoors
Tuberous begonias have a relatively long growing season. If you wait until the weather is warm enough to plant them directly outside, you might not see flowers until late summer. For the most color, we recommend starting your tubers indoors about 8 to 12 weeks before the last expected frost in your area.
When to Start
In most parts of the US, this means starting the tubers in February or March. This head start allows the plant to develop a strong root system and several sets of leaves so it is ready to bloom shortly after it moves outside. If you live in a warm climate (Zones 9-11), you can plant them later or directly outdoors, but an indoor start is still beneficial for earlier flowers. Hardiness Zone Map
How to Pre-Sprout Tubers
Starting your begonias is a simple process that requires just a shallow tray and some moist potting mix.
- Identify the top: A begonia tuber looks like a small, brown, cupped disk. The indented or "hollow" side is the top. This is where the sprouts will emerge. The rounded side is the bottom, where the roots grow.
- Prepare the tray: Fill a shallow tray with 2 to 3 inches of moist, well-draining potting soil or peat moss.
- Place the tubers: Press the tubers into the soil so the tops are level with the surface. You do not need to bury them deeply at this stage. Space them about 2 inches apart.
- Provide warmth and light: Place the tray in a warm spot (around 70°F) with bright, indirect light. A top-of-the-fridge spot or a room with a sunny window works well.
- Water carefully: Keep the soil moist but never soggy. Avoid getting water inside the hollow "cup" of the tuber, as this can cause it to rot.
Within a few weeks, you will see small pink or red buds, often called "pinkies," appearing in the hollow of the tuber. Soon after, green stems will begin to grow.
Choosing the Perfect Location
Success with tuberous begonias depends heavily on "right plant, right place." Because they are tropical understory plants, they have specific needs regarding light and temperature. Is a Begonia a Shade Plant?
Light Requirements
Tuberous begonias thrive in filtered light or dappled shade. They love the morning sun but need protection from the harsh, direct rays of the afternoon.
- Morning Sun: 2 to 4 hours of morning sun is often ideal.
- Bright Shade: If you don't have morning sun, a spot with bright, indirect light (like under a high tree canopy or on a north-facing porch) works beautifully.
- Avoid Deep Shade: While they are "shade plants," they still need light to produce flowers. In very deep, dark shade, the stems may become leggy and the plant will produce fewer blooms.
Soil and Drainage
The single most important rule for growing begonias is that they must have excellent drainage. The tubers are sensitive to excess moisture and will rot if they sit in waterlogged soil.
- In Containers: Always use a high-quality, lightweight potting mix. Ensure your pots have plenty of drainage holes. How Many Begonia Plants Per Pot?
- In Garden Beds: If your soil is heavy clay, it is best to grow begonias in raised beds or containers. You can also improve drainage by mixing in compost or leaf mold.
Protection from the Elements
Begonias have somewhat brittle stems and very large, heavy flowers. This makes them vulnerable to wind. Choose a spot that is sheltered from strong gusts to prevent the stems from snapping. If you are growing them in a garden bed, a spot near a fence or house wall provides a helpful windbreak.
Planting Outdoors
Once the danger of frost has passed and the nighttime temperatures stay consistently above 50°F, it is safe to move your begonias outside. Moving them too early can stunt their growth or cause the foliage to turn yellow. Shipping Information
Hardening Off
Before moving your plants permanently, give them about a week to adjust to the outdoors. Set them in a protected, shady spot for a few hours each day, gradually increasing their time outside. This "hardening off" process prevents transplant shock.
Planting Depth and Spacing
When you are ready to plant your sprouted tubers into their final homes, follow these simple rules:
- Depth: Set the tuber so it is covered by about 1 inch of soil. This provides enough stability for the stems while keeping the tuber near the warmth of the surface.
- Spacing in Pots: For a 10-inch pot, one large tuber is usually sufficient. In a 12-inch or 14-inch container, you can plant three tubers for a very full look.
- Spacing in the Garden: Space upright begonias about 8 to 12 inches apart. This allows for plenty of air circulation, which is vital for preventing disease.
What to Do Next:
- Check the 10-day forecast for nighttime lows above 50°F.
- Prepare your containers with fresh, well-draining potting mix.
- Gently transplant sprouted tubers, covering them with one inch of soil.
- Water lightly to settle the soil around the roots.
Ongoing Care and Maintenance
Once your begonias are established, they are relatively low-maintenance, but they do appreciate consistent care to keep the flower show going.
Watering Correctly
Watering is the most important part of begonia care. The goal is to keep the soil evenly moist—like a wrung-out sponge—but never saturated.
- Check the soil: Stick your finger an inch into the soil. If it feels dry, it is time to water.
- Water at the base: Avoid splashing water on the leaves and flowers. This helps keep the foliage dry and reduces the risk of fungal issues. How to Water Your Plants
- Adjust for weather: In the heat of midsummer, containers (especially hanging baskets) may need water every day. In cooler or humid weather, you may only need to water every few days.
Fertilizing for Max Blooms
Because tuberous begonias bloom so prolifically, they are heavy feeders. They need a steady supply of nutrients to keep producing those large flowers.
- Start slow: Once the plants have several sets of leaves, begin using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer.
- Regular feeding: We recommend fertilizing every two weeks. Using a liquid fertilizer at half-strength is a safe way to provide consistent nutrients without over-stimulating the plant.
- Switching focus: In mid-to-late summer, you can switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus (the middle number on the label) to encourage even more flower production.
Staking Upright Varieties
The flowers on some upright varieties, such as the Roseform Scarlet, can become so large and heavy that they cause the stems to lean or break.
- Provide support: Use a small bamboo stake or a specialized plant support.
- Placement: Insert the stake a few inches away from the main stem to avoid hitting the tuber.
- Tie loosely: Use soft garden twine or plant clips to gently secure the stem to the stake.
Grooming Your Plants
Tuberous begonias are generally self-cleaning, meaning they will eventually drop spent blooms on their own. However, removing wilted flowers and yellowing leaves keeps the plant looking tidy and improves airflow. Simply snap off the flower stem where it meets the main branch.
Managing Plant Health
The biggest challenge with tuberous begonias is usually related to humidity and airflow. Because they love moist environments, they can sometimes be prone to fungal issues like powdery mildew.
Promoting Air Circulation
Powdery mildew looks like a light dusting of white flour on the leaves. The best way to prevent this is to ensure your plants aren't overcrowded. Good spacing allows air to move freely around the leaves, which helps moisture evaporate. If you notice mildew starting, you can use a mild organic fungicide or a spray made of one tablespoon of baking soda mixed into a gallon of water.
Monitoring for Pests
While begonias are generally resistant to deer and rabbits, they can occasionally attract small insects like aphids or mealybugs. If you see tiny pests or a sticky residue on the leaves, a gentle spray of insecticidal soap usually solves the problem. Always follow the label instructions and apply it in the evening when the sun is low to avoid burning the foliage.
Overwintering and Storage
In most of the United States, tuberous begonias cannot survive the winter outdoors. However, you don't have to buy new ones every year. You can save the tubers and replant them the following spring. Many gardeners find that their tubers grow larger and produce even more flowers as they age. Learn
Entering Dormancy
In late summer or early fall, your begonias will naturally start to slow down. The leaves may begin to yellow, and the plant will produce fewer flowers. This is the signal that it is moving toward dormancy.
- Reduce water: Stop fertilizing in late August and begin to reduce watering.
- Wait for frost: You can leave the plants outside until the first light frost kills the top growth. The cold tells the plant to store all its energy back into the tuber.
- Lift the tubers: Carefully dig up the tubers or remove them from their pots. Cut the stems back to about 1 inch.
Curing and Storing
Before you put the tubers away for the winter, they need to "cure."
- Dry them out: Lay the tubers in a single layer in a dry, protected spot (like a garage or porch) for about a week. This allows the outer skin to toughen up.
- Clean them: Once dry, gently brush off any remaining soil. The rest of the stem should easily pull away from the tuber at this point.
- The storage container: Place the tubers in a box filled with dry peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust. This keeps them from drying out completely while preventing rot.
- The ideal temperature: Store the box in a cool, dark, frost-free place. A temperature between 45°F and 50°F is perfect. Check them once or twice during the winter to make sure they aren't shriveling or rotting.
Key Takeaway: Overwintering is a simple way to save money and grow even bigger plants each year. Just remember: cool, dry, and dark are the keys to winter storage success.
Conclusion
Growing tuberous begonias is one of the most effective ways to transform a shady yard into a vibrant, colorful retreat. By providing these plants with well-drained soil, filtered light, and consistent moisture, you can enjoy months of spectacular blooms that rival any sunny garden. Whether you choose the elegant upright Roseform types or the lush, cascading Pendula varieties, these plants are sure to become a highlight of your summer landscape. Garden Basics Design
- Start tubers indoors 8-12 weeks before frost for the longest bloom season.
- Choose a spot with morning sun and protection from strong winds.
- Keep soil consistently moist and fertilize every two weeks.
- Lift and store tubers in a cool, dry place to enjoy them again next year.
We invite you to explore the different colors and textures available at Longfield Gardens. With a little bit of care, you’ll find that growing these tropical treasures is a rewarding and enjoyable part of your gardening routine. How to Plant and Care for Begonias
"The secret to beautiful begonias is simple: keep their feet dry and their heads in the shade."
FAQ
Do tuberous begonias like sun or shade?
Tuberous begonias prefer a balance of both, usually described as partial shade or filtered light. They thrive with 2 to 4 hours of morning sun but need protection from the hot afternoon sun, which can scorch their leaves and wilt the flowers. In very deep shade, they will grow leaves but may fail to produce many flowers.
How often should I water my tuberous begonias?
You should water them whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. This could be daily during the height of summer for plants in hanging baskets, or every few days for those in larger pots or garden beds. Always water at the base of the plant to keep the foliage dry, which helps prevent fungal diseases.
Why are the flowers falling off my begonia?
Flower drop is usually caused by environmental stress, most often related to watering. If the soil is either bone-dry or consistently waterlogged, the plant may drop its blooms. Extreme heat or a sudden change in temperature can also cause this; ensuring the plant is in a sheltered, cool spot can help stabilize flower production.
Can I leave my begonia tubers in the ground over winter?
Only if you live in USDA hardiness zones 9 through 11 where the ground does not freeze. In zones 8 and colder, the tubers will be killed by freezing temperatures. In these regions, you must dig them up after the first frost and store them in a cool, dry place indoors until spring.