How to Overwinter Begonia Indoors for Beautiful Blooms

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Identifying Your Begonia Type
3. When to Bring Begonias Indoors
4. How to Overwinter Tuberous Begonias
5. Overwintering Wax and Fibrous Begonias as Houseplants
6. Caring for Rex and Angel Wing Begonias
7. Simple Troubleshooting for Indoor Begonias
8. Waking Up Begonias in the Spring
9. Conclusion
10. FAQ

Introduction

There is a special kind of satisfaction in watching your favorite garden plants thrive year after year. Begonias are beloved for their lush foliage and vibrant, persistent flowers, but because they are tropical plants, they cannot survive a typical US winter outdoors. Learning how to overwinter begonia indoors allows you to protect your investment and enjoy even larger, more spectacular displays next season.

At Longfield Gardens, we want to help you make the most of every plant in your yard. Whether you are growing upright tuberous begonias in patio pots or wax begonias in your garden beds, the process of bringing them inside is straightforward and rewarding. This guide will walk you through the different methods for saving your begonias so you can look forward to a head start on spring.

By understanding the specific needs of your begonia type, you can successfully transition these beauties from the garden to the home. For more background on tuberous varieties, see our Tips for Growing Tuberous Begonias.

Identifying Your Begonia Type

Before you start digging or moving pots, you need to know which type of begonia you have. Not all begonias handle winter the same way. Some prefer to go completely dormant and sleep through the cold months, while others can live quite happily as houseplants on a sunny windowsill.

Tuberous Begonias

These are often the stars of the shade garden, known for their large, rose-like blooms and dramatic colors. Tuberous begonias grow from a thick, potato-like root called a tuber. In the winter, these plants naturally want to rest. You will know you have this type if the plant dies back to the ground in the fall and you find a solid, rounded structure just beneath the soil surface.

Wax Begonias (Fibrous)

Wax begonias are common bedding plants with succulent stems and shiny, "waxy" leaves. They have a fibrous root system rather than a tuber. These begonias do not have a dormancy period. They are happy to keep growing and blooming all year long if they stay warm and get enough light.

Rex and Rhizomatous Begonias

Rex begonias are grown primarily for their incredible foliage, which features swirling patterns of silver, purple, and green. Rhizomatous begonias grow from a thick stem that creeps along the surface of the soil. Like wax begonias, these types do not go dormant and can be kept as active houseplants throughout the winter months.

Cane-Stemmed Begonias

Commonly known as Angel Wing begonias, these plants have long, upright stems that resemble bamboo. They often have spotted leaves and dangling clusters of flowers. These are also evergreen and will continue to grow indoors if provided with the right conditions.

Key Takeaway: Identify if your begonia is a tuberous type (needs a nap) or a fibrous/rhizomatous type (wants to stay awake) before you begin the overwintering process.

When to Bring Begonias Indoors

Timing is everything when it comes to protecting tropical plants. Begonias are very sensitive to cold, and a single hard frost can damage the foliage or even the root system. If you want a broader overview of climate timing, Longfield Gardens explains what zones begonias grow in.

For begonias you plan to keep as active houseplants, such as wax or Rex varieties, it is best to bring them inside before the night temperatures consistently drop below 50°F. This prevents the plant from experiencing the shock of a sudden temperature swing. If you wait until it is freezing outside, the transition to a warm, dry house will be much harder on the plant.

Tuberous begonias are a bit different. They actually benefit from the cooling temperatures of autumn. Shorter days and cooler nights signal to the plant that it is time to store energy in the tuber and prepare for dormancy. You can leave tuberous begonias outside until the first light frost kills the top growth, or until the leaves start to turn yellow and look "tired."

How to Overwinter Tuberous Begonias

Overwintering tuberous begonias is a three-step process: curing, cleaning, and storing. Because these plants require a period of rest, you won't be keeping them as green plants in your living room. Instead, you will store the tubers in a cool, dark place. If you are planning to plant them again in a container next spring, you may also want to review how to plant tuberous begonias in containers.

Step 1: Digging and Curing

Once the foliage has been hit by a light frost or has naturally yellowed, it is time to lift the tubers. If the plants are in the ground, use a garden fork to gently lift the entire root ball. If they are in containers, you can simply pull the plant out of the soil.

Cut the stems back, leaving about two to five inches of growth attached to the tuber. Don't worry about cleaning them perfectly yet. Place the tubers in a warm, dry, and protected spot—like a garage or a porch—out of direct sunlight. Let them sit for about one to two weeks. This is called "curing," and it allows the outer skin of the tuber to toughen up and any remaining moisture in the stems to recede.

Step 2: Cleaning the Tubers

After the curing period, the remaining stems should be dry and brittle. They will usually fall off with a gentle touch. If they don't, you can carefully trim them away. Gently brush off any loose soil from the tubers using your hands or a soft brush.

At this stage, it is a good idea to inspect each tuber. You want them to feel firm and heavy for their size. If you find any that are soft, mushy, or showing signs of mold, it is best to discard them so they don't affect the healthy ones.

Step 3: Proper Storage

The goal of storage is to keep the tubers dormant, dry, and cool, but never freezing.

• Packing material: Place the tubers in a cardboard box, paper bag, or plastic bin with holes for ventilation. Surround them with a dry material like peat moss, vermiculite, perlite, or even shredded newspaper. This prevents the tubers from touching each other and helps regulate moisture.
• Location: Store the box in a dark place where temperatures stay between 40°F and 50°F. A cool basement, a root cellar, or an insulated crawl space usually works well.
• Monthly check-in: Once a month, take a quick peek at your tubers. If they look shriveled, you can lightly mist the packing material with a tiny bit of water. If any look like they are rotting, remove them immediately.

What to do next

• Wait for the first light frost to trigger dormancy.
• Cure tubers in a dry spot for two weeks.
• Store in dry peat moss or vermiculite.
• Keep in a cool, dark place (40-50°F).

Overwintering Wax and Fibrous Begonias as Houseplants

If you have wax, Rex, or Angel Wing begonias, you don't need to put them to sleep. These varieties can brighten up your home all winter long. The key to success is making the transition from the humid, bright outdoors to the drier, dimmer indoors as smooth as possible.

Acclimating Your Plants

Moving a plant directly from a shady garden spot into a heated living room can cause the plant to drop its leaves in protest. To avoid this, try to acclimate the plant over a week or two. Bring the pot inside at night and move it back out during the day, gradually increasing the time it spends indoors.

If your begonias are planted in the ground, you will need to pot them up. Choose a container with good drainage holes and use a high-quality, soil-free potting mix. We recommend avoiding garden soil in pots, as it is too heavy and can harbor pests.

Light and Temperature

Indoors, begonias need bright, indirect light. A window facing east or west is usually ideal. If you only have a north-facing window, you might find that the plant becomes "leggy" as it reaches for the sun. South-facing windows can sometimes be too hot and may scorch the leaves, so keep the plant a few feet back from the glass if the sun is very intense.

Keep your begonias away from cold drafts (like near an entry door) and away from direct heat sources (like radiators or heating vents). They prefer the same temperatures we do—roughly 60°F to 75°F.

Watering and Humidity

This is where most indoor gardeners run into trouble. Indoor air in the winter is notoriously dry, and begonias love humidity. However, they do not like to sit in soggy soil.

• Watering: Wait until the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch before watering. When you do water, do it thoroughly until water runs out of the bottom of the pot, then empty the saucer.
• Humidity: To boost the moisture in the air, you can place your pots on a pebble tray. Fill a shallow tray with small stones and add water until it is just below the tops of the stones. Set your pots on the stones. As the water evaporates, it creates a humid microclimate around the foliage.
• Avoid Misting: While it seems helpful, misting begonia leaves can actually encourage fungal issues like powdery mildew. Stick to the pebble tray or a small humidifier.

Key Takeaway: Wax and foliage begonias thrive indoors when given bright indirect light, consistent moisture, and a boost in humidity via a pebble tray.

Caring for Rex and Angel Wing Begonias

Rex begonias and Angel Wing types are particularly popular for indoor growing because their foliage is so decorative. While their basic care is similar to wax begonias, they have a few specific preferences. For more on houseplant-style care, see Can Tuberous Begonias Be Grown as House Plants?

Rex begonias are very sensitive to overwatering. Their rhizomes store water, so they can handle a bit of dryness much better than they can handle wet feet. If a Rex begonia gets too wet, the stems can quickly rot at the base. Always use a light, well-draining mix and a pot that isn't much larger than the root ball.

Angel Wing begonias are faster growers. During the winter, they may not need much fertilizer because their growth slows down, but they still appreciate bright light. If the stems get too long and sparse, you can pinch back the tips to encourage a bushier shape. These plants are also very easy to propagate; if a piece breaks off during the move indoors, you can often root it in a glass of water.

Simple Troubleshooting for Indoor Begonias

Even with the best care, you might notice a few changes as your begonias adjust to life indoors. Most of these issues are easily fixed by adjusting one variable at a time. For broader begonia care basics, Longfield Gardens also has a helpful growing begonias guide.

Leaf Drop

If your begonia drops a significant number of leaves shortly after coming inside, don't panic. This is often just a reaction to the lower light levels and drier air. Continue providing bright light and keep the soil lightly moist. Usually, the plant will stabilize and begin growing new leaves that are better adapted to the indoor environment.

Yellow Leaves

Yellowing leaves are often a sign of overwatering. In the winter, plants grow more slowly and use less water than they do in the heat of summer. Always check the soil with your finger before reaching for the watering can. If the soil is already damp, wait a few more days.

Brown Leaf Edges

Crispy, brown edges on the leaves usually mean the air is too dry. This is common in homes with forced-air heating. Moving the plant to a more humid room, like a bathroom or kitchen, or using a pebble tray should help resolve the issue.

Leggy Growth

If your begonia starts to look tall, thin, and "stretched out," it isn't getting enough light. Move it to a brighter window or consider adding a small LED grow light to supplement the natural sunshine.

Waking Up Begonias in the Spring

As the days get longer and the sun gets stronger in late February or March, it is time to start thinking about the garden again.

Restarting Tuberous Begonias

Take your stored tubers out of their box about 6 to 8 weeks before the last expected frost. Inspect them again to make sure they are still firm.

Fill a shallow tray or individual small pots with a light potting mix. Place the tubers on the soil surface with the hollow (indented) side facing up. Do not bury them deep; just press them halfway into the soil. Water them lightly and place them in a warm, bright spot. If you want a more detailed planting reference, see How Deep to Plant Tuberous Begonias for Best Blooms.

Once you see small pink or green "eyes" or buds sprouting, you can begin watering more regularly and give them a bit of balanced liquid fertilizer. Wait until the nights are reliably 50°F or warmer before moving them outside.

Moving Indoor Plants Back Out

For the begonias that spent the winter as houseplants, the move back outside should be gradual. This is called "hardening off."

Start by placing them in a sheltered, shady spot for a few hours a day. Gradually increase their exposure to outdoor light and wind over the course of 7 to 10 days. Just like in the fall, wait until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up before planting them back in the ground or leaving them on the patio overnight.

Conclusion

Overwintering begonia indoors is a simple and rewarding way to keep your garden's most beautiful residents safe until spring. By recognizing the difference between the dormant needs of tuberous begonias and the active needs of fibrous and rhizomatous types, you can ensure a successful transition. Whether you are tucking tubers away in a cool basement or enjoying the colorful leaves of a Rex begonia in your kitchen, you are giving your plants the best chance to thrive for years to come.

• Identify your begonia type to choose the right overwintering method.
• Bring indoor types inside before night temperatures hit 50°F.
• Cure and store tuberous types in a cool, dark, frost-free area.
• Use pebble trays to provide the humidity indoor begonias crave.
• Acclimate plants slowly when moving them between the house and the garden.

Success with begonias comes from matching your care to the plant’s natural rhythm. Whether they are sleeping or growing, a little attention to light and water goes a long way.

We invite you to explore our selection of premium begonias and other summer-blooming bulbs at Longfield Gardens' begonia collection and our summer bulbs for shady gardens. With a bit of winter planning, your garden will be more beautiful and vibrant every single year.

FAQ

Can I leave my begonias in the ground over winter?

In most parts of the United States, begonias cannot stay in the ground because they are tropical perennials that will freeze and die. Unless you live in a very warm, frost-free climate (USDA zones 10 or 11), you must either lift the tubers for storage or bring the plants indoors to keep them alive. You can also check shipping information and timing details by zone when planning spring orders.

Do I need to water my begonia tubers while they are in storage?

Generally, no. The goal of storing tuberous begonias is to keep them dormant and dry to prevent rot. However, if the tubers look extremely shriveled during your monthly inspection, you can very lightly mist the packing material (like peat moss) with water, but the tubers themselves should stay dry.

Why is my indoor begonia losing all its flowers?

It is normal for a begonia to drop its flowers when it first moves indoors. The change in light and humidity is a significant shift for the plant. Once it acclimates to your home's environment, it will likely begin producing new buds, provided it has enough bright, indirect light.

When is the best time to pot up my stored tubers in the spring?

You should start your stored begonia tubers about 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date in your area. This gives them plenty of time to sprout and grow strong stems indoors so they are ready to bloom shortly after you move them into the garden for the summer.