Introduction
There is nothing quite like the vibrant splash of color that begonias bring to a summer garden. Whether it is the cascading flowers of an Illumination begonia or the bold, upright blooms of the Non Stop begonias series, these plants are true showstoppers. It is always a little bittersweet when the first hint of autumn chill arrives, but at Longfield Gardens, we see this as the start of an exciting new phase. Instead of saying goodbye to your favorite plants, you can easily save them to enjoy again next year.
Overwintering begonias is a rewarding and simple way to get more value and beauty out of your garden. By taking a few practical steps, you can keep your plants safe from the winter cold and give them a head start on the following spring. This guide is designed for home gardeners who want to ensure their begonias return bigger and better every season. We will cover the different methods for each type of begonia, from those that need a long winter nap to those that prefer to spend the season as cheerful houseplants. For a deeper dive into tuber care, see our Tips for Growing Tuberous Begonias.
With the right timing and a little bit of care, you can preserve the health and vigor of your begonia collection for years to come.
Identifying Your Begonia Type
Before you pick up your garden trowel, the most important step is knowing which type of begonia you are growing. Begonias are a diverse family, and they have different needs when the weather turns cold. Some are essentially tropical perennials that can live indoors, while others grow from a thick, potato-like bulb called a tuber and require a period of dormancy to thrive.
Tuberous Begonias
Tuberous begonias are the most common type for overwintering. These plants are beloved for their large, rose-like flowers and their ability to brighten up shady corners. If you planted varieties like the On Top or Non-Stop series, you are likely dealing with a tuberous begonia. These plants store their energy in a firm, rounded tuber beneath the soil. In the winter, these plants naturally want to go dormant. This rest period is essential for the plant's health, allowing it to recharge its energy for a spectacular display the following summer.
Fibrous-Rooted and Wax Begonias
Wax begonias are the classic bedding plants often seen in garden borders and containers. They have smaller flowers and waxy, succulent-like leaves that come in green or bronze. Unlike tuberous types, wax begonias have a fibrous root system. They do not go dormant. In frost-free climates, they grow all year long. For most gardeners in the US, this means bringing them indoors to live as houseplants during the winter months.
Cane-Type and Rex Begonias
Cane begonias, including the popular Angel Wing and Dragon Wing varieties, are known for their tall, bamboo-like stems and attractive foliage. Rex begonias are grown primarily for their electrifying leaf patterns and colors. Like wax begonias, these types do not have a dormant period. They are quite happy to stay in their pots and move inside when the temperatures drop.
Key Takeaway: Always check the root system or the variety name before you start. Tuberous types need to sleep in a cool, dry place, while fibrous and cane types need to stay active and green in a warm, bright room.
How to Overwinter Tuberous Begonias
If you have tuberous begonias, the goal is to protect that precious tuber from freezing. Begonias are tropical at heart and cannot survive a hard frost. However, they are very easy to store once you understand the process of "curing" and storage.
Step 1: Triggering Dormancy
As autumn approaches, you can help your begonias prepare for their rest. In late September or early October, start by reducing the amount of water you give them. This mimics the end of the growing season in their native habitats. When the leaves begin to turn yellow, or if a light frost has nipped the foliage, it is time to act. A light frost will blacken the leaves but will not harm the tuber protected by the soil. This is often the signal gardeners use to know it is time to dig.
Step 2: Digging and Cleaning
Use a hand fork or a small spade to gently lift the plant from its container or the garden bed. Be careful not to nick or bruise the tuber, as any damage can lead to rot during storage. At this stage, do not worry about removing all the soil. Simply shake off the loose bits and leave the stems attached for now.
Step 3: Curing the Tubers
Curing is the process of letting the tubers dry out so they are less likely to mold or rot in storage. Place your lifted plants in a dry, frost-free area like a garage, basement, or garden shed. They should be out of direct sunlight and have good air circulation.
Let them sit for about two to three weeks. During this time, the remaining nutrients in the stems will move down into the tuber, and the outer skin will toughen up. After a few weeks, the stems will become brittle and should pull away from the tuber easily with a gentle tug. If they do not come away easily, give them another week.
Step 4: Final Cleaning and Inspection
Once the stems are gone, brush away any remaining dry soil and trim off any long, wispy roots. Inspect each tuber carefully. You want them to feel firm and heavy for their size. If you find any soft spots or signs of damage, it is best to discard those tubers so they do not affect the healthy ones. At this point, some gardeners like to lightly dust the tubers with a fungicidal powder as an extra layer of protection, though this is not strictly necessary if your storage area is dry.
Step 5: Storage Medium and Environment
The best way to store begonia tubers is to nestle them in a material that allows them to breathe while preventing them from drying out completely. We recommend using dry peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust.
- Place a layer of your chosen material in a cardboard box or a paper bag.
- Arrange the tubers so they are not touching each other.
- Cover them with more material.
- Store the box in a cool, dark, and dry place.
The ideal temperature for storage is between 40°F and 50°F. An unheated basement, a cool closet, or an insulated crawl space usually works perfectly. Avoid spots that might freeze or areas with high humidity, like a damp laundry room.
What to do next:
- Reduce watering in late September.
- Lift tubers after the first light frost.
- Cure in a dry, shady spot for 2–3 weeks.
- Store in dry peat moss at 45°F.
Overwintering Begonias as Houseplants
For wax begonias, Rex begonias, and cane-type varieties, the process is even simpler. These plants do not need to go dormant. In fact, keeping them growing indoors allows you to enjoy their foliage and occasional flowers all winter long.
Transitioning Indoors
The key to success with indoor begonias is a smooth transition. Don't wait for a hard freeze to bring them inside. Begonias prefer to come in when the nighttime temperatures are still above 50°F. If the change in temperature and light is too sudden, the plant may drop some leaves. This is normal behavior as the plant adjusts to lower light levels. New leaves will soon grow that are better suited to your home's environment.
Pest Prevention
Before bringing any plant inside, it is a good idea to give it a thorough inspection. Check the undersides of leaves and the stems for any hitchhikers. A gentle spray of water can help remove dust and most common outdoor insects. For plants in pots, you might want to soak the pot in a bucket of water for 20 minutes to encourage any soil-dwelling insects to exit.
Light and Temperature Requirements
Indoors, begonias appreciate bright, filtered light. A window facing east or west is often ideal. Avoid placing them in direct, harsh afternoon sun, which can scorch their leaves, especially for the thinner-leaved Rex varieties. Most begonias thrive in the same temperatures humans enjoy—roughly 65°F to 75°F during the day and slightly cooler at night. Keep them away from drafty doors or hot air vents, as sudden temperature swings can cause stress.
Humidity and Watering
Our homes tend to be very dry in the winter due to heating systems. Begonias, particularly Rex and cane types, love humidity. You can create a more comfortable environment by using a simple pebble tray. Fill a shallow tray with small stones and add water until it is just below the top of the pebbles. Set your plant pot on the stones. As the water evaporates, it creates a pocket of humid air around the foliage.
When it comes to watering, the "less is more" rule applies. In the winter, plants grow more slowly and need less water. Wait until the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch before watering again. For most home environments, this means watering about once a week. Be careful not to let the plant sit in standing water, as this can lead to root rot.
Feeding During Winter
Since the plant's growth slows down in the winter, you can pause your regular fertilizing routine. Starting in late February or early March, when you notice new growth beginning to pick up as the days get longer, you can resume feeding with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer at half strength.
Key Takeaway: Treat fibrous and cane begonias like houseplants. Provide bright light, use a pebble tray for humidity, and let the soil dry out slightly between waterings to keep them happy until spring.
Timing and Regional Considerations
Gardening is always a partnership with the weather. While we can provide general guidelines, your local conditions will dictate the exact timing for overwintering. At Longfield Gardens, we want you to feel confident in your timing regardless of where you live.
Following the Frost Dates
In northern climates (USDA zones 3-6), the first frost can arrive as early as September. It is important to have your storage supplies ready and your indoor spaces cleared by late summer. If you have a busy schedule, you can dig your tuberous begonias a bit early, as long as the tubers have reached a decent size.
In southern climates (USDA zones 8-10), begonias may stay green and blooming well into December. If you live in a region where the ground does not freeze, you may be tempted to leave your begonias in the soil. However, wet winter soil can cause tubers to rot even if it doesn't freeze. If your winters are particularly rainy, it is still a good idea to lift and store your tubers to ensure they stay dry and healthy. For shipping timing by zone, see our Shipping Information.
Microclimates in Your Home
Every home has different "zones." A basement that stays at a steady 45°F is a gold mine for storing dormant tubers. If you live in an apartment without a basement, look for the coolest spot you have—perhaps a north-facing closet or a corner of the utility room. For the houseplant method, remember that light levels drop significantly in the winter. If your windows don't provide enough light, a simple LED grow light can make a big difference in keeping your begonias lush.
Waking Up Begonias in the Spring
The most exciting part of overwintering is seeing those first signs of life in the spring. For tuberous begonias, this usually happens around March or April, about 8 to 10 weeks before the last expected frost in your area.
Starting Tuberous Begonias
Take your tubers out of storage and inspect them once more. You may even see tiny pink or white buds, often called "eyes," beginning to sprout. This is a sign the plant is ready to grow.
- Fill small pots (4–5 inches) with a high-quality, well-draining potting mix.
- Place the tuber on the soil surface with the hollow or indented side facing up.
- Press it gently into the soil, but do not bury it deeply; the top should be just at or slightly below the soil line.
- Water sparingly at first. Too much water before the roots have developed can cause the tuber to rot.
- Place the pots in a warm, bright spot. A sunny windowsill or under grow lights is perfect.
Once you see stems and leaves emerging, you can begin watering more regularly and provide a light dose of fertilizer.
Moving Back Outdoors
Wait until all danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F before moving your begonias back outside. This is a critical step. Tropical plants like begonias can be stunted by cold soil and chilly nights, even if it doesn't freeze.
"Hardening off" is the process of gradually acclimating your plants to the outdoor environment. Start by placing them in a sheltered, shady spot for a few hours a day, gradually increasing their time outside over the course of a week. This prevents the leaves from getting sunburned or wind-whipped after their winter indoors.
What to do next:
- Check tubers for sprouts in early spring.
- Pot them up in fresh soil with the "cup" side up.
- Keep them in a warm, bright spot indoors.
- Move outside only when nights stay above 50°F.
Troubleshooting Common Overwintering Issues
Even the most experienced gardeners run into a few hiccups now and then. If things don't go exactly as planned, don't worry. Most issues are easy to fix once you know what to look for.
Soft or Shriveled Tubers
If you check your stored tubers and find they are very shriveled, they may have lost too much moisture. You can try misting the storage medium slightly to add a tiny bit of humidity, but be careful not to make it wet. On the other hand, if a tuber is soft or mushy, it has likely succumbed to rot. Remove any soft tubers immediately so the rot does not spread to the others. This is usually caused by the storage area being too damp or the tubers not being cured long enough before storage.
Leggy Indoor Growth
If your indoor begonias are growing very long, thin stems with few leaves, they are "stretching" for more light. This is a common issue in the dark months of January and February. Simply move the plant to a brighter window or supplement with an inexpensive grow light. You can also pinch back the tips of the stems to encourage the plant to grow more full and bushy. If you want more indoor-growing pointers, our Growing Wax Begonias guide covers the basics.
Mold on Soil Surface
If you see a white, fuzzy mold on the surface of your indoor pots, it is usually a sign of poor air circulation or overwatering. Scrape off the mold and allow the soil to dry out further between waterings. Increasing the air movement with a small fan can also help keep the plants healthy.
Leaf Drop
As mentioned earlier, begonias often drop leaves when they move from the humid, bright outdoors to the drier, dimmer indoors. If your plant is dropping leaves but the stems still look firm and healthy, just be patient. Reduce your watering slightly and let the plant adjust. It will likely reward your patience with new growth in a few weeks.
Why Overwintering is Worth the Effort
You might wonder if it is worth the time to dig and store these plants when you could simply buy new ones in the spring. While we love providing fresh bulbs every year, there is a special satisfaction in overwintering.
First, tuberous begonias actually get better with age. As the tuber grows larger each year, it has more energy to produce more stems and more flowers. A three-year-old tuber will often produce a much more impressive display than a brand-new one.
Second, it allows you to keep specific varieties that you truly love. If you found the perfect shade of salmon or a particularly vigorous trailing variety, overwintering ensures you have that exact plant ready to go for the next season. If you're deciding whether to keep begonias as seasonal plants or bring them through winter, our Is Begonia an Outdoor Plant? guide can help.
Finally, gardening is about the cycle of the seasons. There is a quiet joy in tucking your plants away for the winter and a genuine thrill in seeing those first green shoots emerge in the spring. It connects you to the rhythm of your garden in a way that buying new plants every year simply cannot match.
Conclusion
Overwintering begonias is a simple, effective way to keep your garden's beauty alive year after year. Whether you choose to store tubers in a cool basement or keep foliage begonias as indoor companions, the process is accessible for gardeners of all skill levels. By matching your care to the specific type of begonia you have, you ensure the best possible results.
At Longfield Gardens, we take pride in helping you find success with every plant you grow. From selecting the highest quality tubers to providing the practical support you need for year-round care, we are here to ensure your yard and garden are more beautiful than ever. We encourage you to give overwintering a try this year—you might be surprised at how easy and rewarding it is to see your favorite begonias return for another season of spectacular color.
Final Tips for Success:
- Identify if your begonia is tuberous (needs dormancy) or fibrous (stays green).
- Protect all begonias from frost; they are tropical plants.
- Use a cool, dry spot for storage and a bright, humid spot for indoor growth.
- Be patient in the spring and wait for warm nights before moving plants back outside.
FAQ
Can I leave my begonias in the ground over winter?
In most parts of the US, begonias will not survive the winter if left in the ground. They are extremely sensitive to frost and freezing soil. If you live in a very warm climate (Zone 10 or higher) where it never freezes, you might be able to leave them outdoors, but in most regions, they must be brought inside to survive. For more on outdoor growing, see our Begonia outdoor planting guide.
How often should I water my stored begonia tubers?
You should not water stored tubers at all during the winter. The goal is to keep them dormant and dry to prevent rot. The storage medium (like peat moss or sawdust) should be dry or only very slightly damp. If the tubers look extremely shriveled in mid-winter, you can lightly mist the packing material, but never soak it.
Why did my begonia lose all its leaves when I brought it inside?
This is a common reaction to the change in environment. The air inside our homes is much drier and the light is much dimmer than outdoors. The plant drops its "outdoor" leaves and will eventually grow new ones that are better adapted to indoor life. To help, use a pebble tray for humidity and place the plant in your brightest window.
When is the best time to start my begonia tubers in the spring?
The best time is usually about 8 to 10 weeks before the last expected frost in your area. This gives the tubers plenty of time to sprout and grow into sturdy little plants before it is warm enough for them to go back outside. In most northern states, this means starting them indoors in March or early April. If you want a step-by-step refresher, our Tips for Growing Tuberous Begonias article is a helpful companion.
