How to Overwinter Begonias Indoors

Learn how to overwinter begonias indoors with our expert guide. Follow easy steps to store tubers or keep wax begonias as houseplants for a vibrant spring garden.

Longfield Gardens Team
How to Overwinter Begonias Indoors

Introduction

Begonias are among the most rewarding plants for a summer garden. Their lush foliage and vibrant blooms add a touch of tropical elegance to shaded patios and garden beds alike. At Longfield Gardens, we enjoy watching these plants thrive throughout the warmer months. However, as the first hints of autumn arrive, many gardeners wonder if they can save these beautiful plants for the next season.

The good news is that you can keep your begonias for years by bringing them inside for the winter. Whether you are growing tuberous varieties with dinnerplate-sized flowers or wax begonias with shiny, constant blooms, the process is straightforward. If you’re looking for a place to start shopping, our Upright Double Begonias collection is a strong fit for the large, tuberous types discussed in this guide. (longfield-gardens.com)

This guide is designed for home gardeners who want to protect their investment and enjoy even larger, more spectacular plants next year.

By learning the specific needs of your begonia type, you can ensure they survive the cold months and return with renewed vigor. Saving your begonias is an easy way to build a more mature, beautiful garden over time. For a quick refresher on identifying different begonia forms, see our what does a begonia plant look like? guide. (longfield-gardens.com)

Identifying Your Begonia Type

Before you begin the process of moving plants inside, you must identify which type of begonia you are growing. Different varieties require different care during the winter months. Some begonias need a period of total rest, while others can continue to grow as houseplants.

Tuberous Begonias

Tuberous begonias are famous for their large, showy flowers that often resemble roses or camellias. These plants grow from a thick, fleshy root called a tuber. In the fall, these begonias naturally want to go dormant. They will lose their leaves and stems, and the tuber will rest until spring. Varieties like the "Non-Stop" or "Illumination" series fall into this category. If you want to compare the habit of tuberous types with other begonia forms, our begonia shade plant guide is a helpful next step. (longfield-gardens.com)

Wax Begonias

Wax begonias are common bedding plants. They have succulent stems and shiny, rounded leaves that look like they have been polished with wax. They produce clusters of smaller flowers in red, white, or pink. Unlike tuberous types, wax begonias do not have a dormant period. They can stay green and keep blooming all year if they are kept in the right conditions.

Rex and Foliage Begonias

Rex begonias are grown primarily for their stunning, colorful leaves. They often feature swirls of silver, purple, and deep burgundy. Like wax begonias, these do not go dormant. They are popular as year-round houseplants because their foliage remains beautiful regardless of the season.

Cane-Like and Angel Wing Begonias

These varieties grow tall, woody stems that resemble bamboo or canes. Their leaves are often shaped like wings and may have silver spots or "polka dots." These plants are perennials that continue to grow throughout the winter without a rest phase.

Key Takeaway Check the roots and leaves of your plant. If it has a thick, potato-like tuber at the base, it needs a dormant winter rest. If the roots are thin and fibrous, the plant should stay active as a houseplant.

Overwintering Tuberous Begonias

Tuberous begonias require a period of dormancy to stay healthy. This rest period allows the plant to store energy for the following year’s growth. If you try to keep them growing through the winter, they often become weak and may not bloom well the next summer.

Preparing for Dormancy

The process begins in late summer or early fall. As the days get shorter, you should stop fertilizing your tuberous begonias. We recommend reducing the amount of water you provide as well. This subtle change signals to the plant that the growing season is ending.

When the foliage starts to turn yellow, or after the first light frost has touched the leaves, it is time to act. A light frost will blacken the foliage but usually won't hurt the tuber buried in the soil. However, you must dig them up before a hard, deep freeze occurs, as this can damage the tuber itself.

Digging and Curing

Carefully lift the tubers from the ground or their pots. You can use a small garden fork or a hand trowel. Be gentle to avoid nicking or bruising the fleshy tubers. Once lifted, cut the stems back, leaving about an inch or two of growth attached to the tuber.

The next step is "curing." This is a simple but vital part of the process. Place the tubers in a warm, dry, and well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight. Let them sit for about two weeks. This allows the outer skin to toughen up and any remaining moisture in the stems to dry out. After curing, the remaining stem stubs should fall off easily. You can then gently brush away any loose soil. For broader planting and spacing guidance, our how many begonia plants per pot article is a useful companion. (longfield-gardens.com)

Proper Storage Conditions

Once cured, the tubers are ready for their winter nap. We suggest placing them in a breathable container. A cardboard box or a paper bag works perfectly. To keep the tubers from drying out too much, nestle them into a packing material. Good options include:

  • Peat moss
  • Vermiculite
  • Dry sawdust
  • Shredded paper

Store the container in a cool, dark, and dry place. The ideal temperature is between 40°F and 50°F. An unheated basement, a cool closet, or an insulated garage usually provides the right environment. Avoid areas that might freeze or places with high humidity, which can cause rot.

What to Do Next

  1. Stop fertilizing in late August.
  2. Dig tubers after the first light frost.
  3. Cure the tubers in a dry spot for two weeks.
  4. Pack them in peat moss or vermiculite.
  5. Store in a cool, dark location until spring.

Overwintering Wax and Rex Begonias as Houseplants

Non-tuberous begonias, such as wax, rex, and angel wing varieties, do not go dormant. Because they are tropical plants, they cannot survive freezing temperatures. To keep them alive, you must bring them inside to live as houseplants. If you want more background on the different growth habits, our begonia size guide can help you match plant type to space. (longfield-gardens.com)

The Acclimation Process

Moving a plant from the humid, bright outdoors to a dry, climate-controlled home can be a shock. We recommend starting the transition before the heater is turned on for the season.

About two weeks before you plan to bring them inside, move your pots to a more shaded area. This helps the plant adjust to lower light levels. If your begonias are planted in the garden, carefully transplant them into pots using a high-quality, well-draining potting mix. For more growing basics, see ideal growing conditions for begonias. (longfield-gardens.com)

Pest Inspection and Cleaning

It is much easier to deal with garden hitchhikers before they enter your home. Before bringing any plant indoors, inspect it thoroughly. Look under the leaves and along the stems for aphids, spider mites, or fungus gnats.

You can give the plants a gentle bath with a spray of lukewarm water to wash away dust and insects. Some gardeners use a mild insecticidal soap as a preventative measure. Ensure the pot and the saucer are also clean.

Light and Water Requirements

Once inside, place your begonias near a bright window. They prefer bright, indirect light. A window facing east or west is often ideal. If the light is too dim, the plants may become "leggy," meaning they grow long, thin stems as they reach for the sun.

Watering needs will change indoors. The air inside a home is usually drier, but the plants grow more slowly in the winter. Check the soil frequently. Only water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. It is better to keep the soil slightly on the dry side than to let the plant sit in soggy dirt, which can lead to root rot.

Managing Humidity

Most begonias thrive in high humidity, which is rare in a heated winter home. You can help your plants by creating a "pebble tray."

  1. Fill a shallow tray with small stones or pebbles.
  2. Add water until it is just below the top of the stones.
  3. Place your potted begonia on top of the stones.

As the water evaporates, it creates a small zone of moisture around the foliage. This prevents the leaf edges from turning brown and crispy. Avoid misting the leaves directly, as this can encourage fungal issues like powdery mildew.

Key Takeaway Indoor begonias need bright, indirect light and a boost in humidity. Use a pebble tray and avoid overwatering to keep them healthy until spring.

Overwintering Begonias in Containers

If your begonias are already growing in pots, you have a head start. Container-grown plants are often easier to manage because their root systems are already contained.

For Tuberous Begonias in Pots

You do not necessarily have to dig the tubers out of the pot. Once the foliage has died back, you can simply move the entire pot to a cool, dry location. Stop watering entirely. The soil will dry out, and the tuber will go dormant right in the container. In the spring, you can remove the tuber, refresh the soil, and begin the growing cycle again.

Moving Foliage Begonias

For wax or rex begonias in containers, the move is even simpler. Follow the acclimation steps mentioned earlier and bring the pot into your living space. If the plant has grown significantly over the summer, this is a good time to give it a light trim. Removing a few inches of growth can help the plant stay compact and manageable indoors.

Common Winter Challenges

Gardening involves observing and responding to the needs of your plants. Even with the best care, you may run into a few common issues while overwintering begonias indoors.

Leaf Drop

It is very common for begonias to drop a few leaves shortly after moving indoors. This is usually just a reaction to the change in light and humidity. Do not panic or overwater the plant to compensate. Simply tidy up the fallen leaves and give the plant time to adjust. New leaves that grow indoors will be better adapted to the lower light levels of your home.

Spindly Growth

If your begonias are stretching toward the window and looking thin, they need more light. You can move them to a brighter spot or use a simple LED grow light to supplement the natural sunshine. You can also pinch back the tips of the stems to encourage the plant to grow more side branches and stay bushy.

Monitoring Stored Tubers

If you are storing tubers in a box, check them once a month. You want them to stay firm. If a tuber feels soft or looks fuzzy, it may be rotting. Remove any damaged tubers immediately so the rot doesn't spread to the healthy ones. If the tubers look very shriveled, you can lightly mist the packing material (not the tuber itself) with a tiny amount of water to provide a hint of moisture. If you need a refresher on where begonias belong in the garden, our shade plant guide is a helpful reference. (longfield-gardens.com)

Waking Begonias Up in the Spring

As the days get longer in late winter or early spring, your begonias will begin to sense the change. This is the most exciting part of the process.

Starting Tubers Indoors

For stored tubers, we suggest starting them indoors about 8 to 12 weeks before the last frost date. Place the tubers in a shallow tray of moist potting soil. Position them with the hollow side (the "bowl" shape) facing up. They should be just barely covered with soil or even left slightly exposed at the top.

Place the tray in a warm spot with bright light. Within a few weeks, you should see small pink or green buds emerging. Once the sprouts are a few inches tall, you can transplant them into their permanent summer pots.

Transitioning Back Outdoors

Whether your begonias spent the winter as houseplants or dormant tubers, they need to be "hardened off" before moving back outside. This means getting them used to the wind, sun, and temperature swings of the outdoors.

Wait until the danger of frost has passed and night temperatures are consistently above 50°F. Start by placing the plants in a protected, shady spot for a few hours a day. Gradually increase their time outside and their exposure to light over the course of a week or two. This slow introduction prevents the leaves from getting "sunburned" and helps the plant stay strong.

Practical Tips for Success

Overwintering is a skill that gets easier with practice. Here are a few simple rules we follow to ensure the best results.

  • Label Everything: It is easy to forget which tuber is which when they are all sitting in a box of peat moss. Use waterproof labels to note the variety and color.
  • Use Fresh Soil: When replanting in the spring, always use fresh potting mix. This provides a clean environment and a fresh supply of nutrients for the new growing season.
  • Watch the Temperature: Begonias are truly tropical. Even a single night of temperatures in the 30s can damage non-dormant varieties. If a surprise cold snap is predicted, bring them inside immediately.
  • Patience is Key: Stored tubers can sometimes be slow to sprout in the spring. As long as the tuber is firm, give it time. Warmth is the most important factor in "waking" them up. If you are unsure about shipping timing or zone-based delivery, our shipping information page explains how Longfield schedules orders by USDA zone. (longfield-gardens.com)

Summary of Spring Steps

  • Pot up tubers 8-12 weeks before the last frost.
  • Keep sprouts in a warm, bright location.
  • Harden off all plants gradually when nights stay above 50°F.
  • Use fresh potting soil for the new season.

FAQ

How do I tell if my begonia tuber is still alive?

A healthy tuber should feel firm and heavy, similar to a potato. If you gently scratch the surface with a fingernail and see light green or white underneath, the tuber is alive. If it feels mushy, hollow, or very light, it has likely rotted or dried out completely and should be discarded.

Can I leave my begonias in the ground if I live in a warm climate?

In USDA zones 9 and 10, some begonias can stay in the ground year-round. However, even in warm areas, tuberous begonias benefit from a dry rest period. If your winter is very rainy, the tubers may rot in the ground. In those cases, it is often safer to dig them up or ensure they are in a spot with exceptional drainage. For more detail on planting them outdoors, see can begonias be planted in the ground?. (longfield-gardens.com)

My wax begonia is flowering less indoors. Is this normal?

Yes, it is very common for flowering to slow down during the winter months. Lower light levels and shorter days tell the plant to focus on maintaining its foliage rather than producing new blooms. Once the plant moves back outside in the spring and receives more sunlight, the heavy blooming will return.

Should I fertilize my begonias during the winter?

If your begonias are dormant tubers, do not fertilize them at all. For wax or rex begonias growing as houseplants, we recommend stopping or significantly reducing fertilizer. Since the plant is growing slowly, it doesn't need the extra nutrients. Resume a regular feeding schedule in the spring when you see active new growth. If you want to compare indoor versus outdoor growing habits, our begonia growth guide has more context. (longfield-gardens.com)

Conclusion

Overwintering begonias indoors is a practical and satisfying way to extend the life of your favorite plants. Whether you choose to let your tuberous varieties rest in a cool basement or keep your foliage begonias bright on a windowsill, the effort is well worth it. By following these simple steps, you can enjoy larger displays and more beautiful blooms year after year.

At Longfield Gardens, we believe that gardening should be an enjoyable journey. Saving your plants from one season to the next is one of the many ways to deepen your connection with your garden. With a little bit of preparation and care, your begonias will be ready to shine again as soon as the warm weather returns.

  • Identify if your begonia is tuberous (dormant) or fibrous (active).
  • Store tubers in a cool, dry, dark place packed in peat moss.
  • Keep non-dormant varieties in bright, indirect light with extra humidity.
  • Wait for warm spring nights before moving plants back outside.

Saving your begonias for next year is a simple, rewarding process that helps you create a more established and vibrant landscape. We are here to support you with quality plants and the practical advice you need for a successful garden.