How to Winter Begonias Indoors

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Identifying Your Begonia Type
3. How to Winter Tuberous Begonias
4. Wintering Begonias as Houseplants
5. Regional Variations for Winter Care
6. Waking Up Your Begonias in Spring
7. Conclusion
8. FAQ

Introduction

There is a special kind of magic in the way begonias light up a shady corner of the garden. Whether you love the massive, rose-like petals of tuberous begonias or the electrifying foliage of a Rex variety, these plants bring a tropical flair that is hard to match. At Longfield Gardens, we want to help you keep that beauty alive year after year. Learning how to winter begonias indoors is one of the most rewarding skills you can add to your gardening toolkit.

This guide is designed for home gardeners who want to save their favorite plants from the winter chill. We will cover how to identify which type of begonia you have and the simple steps needed to keep them healthy until spring. Whether your begonia needs a cozy spot on a windowsill or a quiet winter nap in a box of peat moss, the process is straightforward and achievable. For more general care basics, see our How to Plant and Care for Begonias. Successfully wintering your plants ensures they return even stronger and more beautiful next season.

Identifying Your Begonia Type

Before you start preparing for the cold, you need to know which type of begonia you are growing. Begonias are a diverse family, and they do not all handle winter the same way. Some prefer to keep growing as houseplants, while others require a period of total rest, known as dormancy.

Tuberous Begonias

Tuberous begonias are famous for their large, showy flowers that can look like roses or camellias. These plants grow from a thick, brown, potato-like underground structure called a tuber. Common varieties include the Non-Stop series, Illumination, and On Top. These begonias are "sleepers"—they must go dormant in the winter to survive and bloom again.

Cane and Bedding Begonias

Cane begonias, often called Angel Wing begonias because of their leaf shape, have upright, woody stems with distinct joints. Bedding begonias are the smaller, bushy plants frequently used in garden borders. Both types have fibrous roots rather than tubers. They do not go dormant. You can bring these indoors to live as houseplants during the winter months.

Rex Begonias

Rex begonias are grown primarily for their incredible foliage. Their leaves feature swirls of silver, purple, pink, and deep green. Like cane begonias, Rex varieties do not go dormant. They are tropical plants that appreciate a warm, humid environment. They can be sensitive to dry indoor air, but they make stunning winter houseplants when given the right care. For a closer look at this foliage type, see our How to Grow Rex Begonia guide.

Rhizomatous Begonias

These begonias have a thick stem called a rhizome that creeps along the surface of the soil. They are often grown for their interesting leaf textures and late-winter flowers. Like the Rex and Cane types, they stay active through the winter and should be kept as houseplants rather than stored away.

Key Takeaway: Success begins with identification. Tuberous begonias must go dormant and be stored dry. Cane, Rex, and Bedding begonias should stay active and move indoors as houseplants.

How to Winter Tuberous Begonias

Tuberous begonias are the most common type that gardeners choose to overwinter. Because they are sensitive to frost, they need to be moved inside before the ground freezes. The goal is to mimic their natural cycle by letting them rest in a cool, dry place.

Timing the Harvest

The best time to start the process is in late autumn as the weather begins to cool. You may notice the leaves starting to turn yellow or the plant looking less vigorous. This is a natural signal that the plant is ready to rest. While a very light touch of frost on the leaves will not kill the tuber, it is best to move your plants before a hard freeze occurs.

If your begonias are in the ground, use a garden trowel to gently lift the entire root ball. If they are in pots, you can move the pots to a protected area like a porch or garage to begin the drying process.

The Curing Process

Once you have lifted the plants, you need to let them "cure." This simple step allows the tuber to toughen its outer skin. This prevents rot during storage and keeps the tuber healthy.

• Reduce Water: Stop watering the plants entirely. Let the soil dry out until it feels like dust.
• Cut Back Stems: Once the foliage has wilted and turned yellow, cut the stems back to about one inch above the tuber. Do not pull the stems off. Let them naturally wither and fall away over the next week.
• Clean the Tubers: Gently shake off any loose soil. You do not need to scrub them or wash them with water. Keeping them dry is the priority.
• Air Dry: Place the tubers on a tray in a dry, shaded area for about two weeks. This ensures no lingering moisture is trapped against the tuber.

Choosing a Storage Medium

To keep your tubers healthy, you should store them in a material that breathes but provides a little insulation. Popular choices include:

• Peat Moss: Excellent for holding just a tiny bit of ambient moisture without staying wet.
• Vermiculite or Perlite: These are lightweight and very clean options.
• Wood Shavings: These provide great airflow.
• Cardboard Boxes or Paper Bags: Avoid plastic containers. Plastic traps moisture, which leads to rot.

Final Storage Conditions

Place your cured tubers in a box filled with your chosen medium. Make sure the tubers are not touching each other. This prevents a single issue from spreading to the rest of the collection.

Store the box in a cool, dark, and dry location. A basement, root cellar, or an attached garage that stays above freezing is perfect. The ideal temperature is between 40°F and 50°F. Check on them once a month. If a tuber feels mushy, remove it immediately. If they look extremely shriveled, you can give the storage medium a very light mist of water, but it is usually better to keep things dry.

For timing help by region, check the Hardiness Zone Map and the Shipping Information page.

What to do next:

• Identify your tuberous varieties before the first frost hits.
• Stop watering and allow the foliage to yellow naturally.
• Cure the tubers in a dry, protected spot for two weeks.
• Pack them in dry peat moss or paper bags inside a cardboard box.
• Store in a cool (40–50°F), dark place until spring.

Wintering Begonias as Houseplants

If you have Rex, Cane, or Bedding begonias, your winter strategy is different. These plants do not want to go to sleep. They want to stay warm. Bringing them indoors allows you to enjoy their foliage all winter long.

Bringing Them Indoors

Before you bring any plant inside, give it a thorough inspection. Look under the leaves and along the stems for any hitchhiking insects. A gentle spray of water can help remove dust and unwanted guests. It is often helpful to prune the plants back by about a third. This makes them easier to manage indoors and encourages full, bushy growth once they adjust to their new home.

Light and Temperature

Indoors, begonias need bright, indirect light. A window facing east or west is usually ideal. Avoid placing them in direct, harsh afternoon sun, which can scorch the leaves. They prefer standard household temperatures. If you are comfortable in the room, they likely are too. Keep them away from cold drafts or heating vents, as sudden temperature swings can stress the plant. For more light guidance, see Where to Plant Begonias: Sun or Shade?.

The Humidity Factor

The biggest challenge for indoor begonias is dry air. Our home heating systems strip moisture from the air, which can cause the edges of begonia leaves to turn brown. You can easily fix this with a pebble tray.

Fill a shallow tray with small stones and add water until it is just below the top of the stones. Place your begonia pot on top of the stones. As the water evaporates, it creates a small zone of humidity right around the plant. Avoid misting the leaves directly. Trapped water on the leaves can lead to fungal issues in still indoor air. If you want more indoor care tips, try How to Take Care of a Begonia Plant.

Watering and Fertilizer

Plants grow much more slowly in the winter, so they need less water and no supplemental food.

• Watering: Wait until the top inch of soil feels dry before watering again. Begonias do not like "wet feet." This means the soil should never be soggy. Ensure your pot has a drainage hole so excess water can escape.
• Feeding: Stop fertilizing in late fall. Wait until you see new growth in the spring before you start a regular feeding schedule again.

For a broader look at indoor and outdoor placement, see our Are Begonias Inside or Outside Plants? guide.

Regional Variations for Winter Care

Your local climate plays a big role in how you handle winter care. While the basics remain the same, your location determines your timing and storage needs.

Northern and Cold Climates

In the North, the window for moving plants is shorter. You must be vigilant about the first frost date. Because winters are long, storing tuberous begonias in a basement is the most reliable way to save them. If you keep begonias as houseplants, the humidity tray is essential because indoor air gets very dry during long, cold winters.

Southern and Warm Climates

In warmer regions (typically USDA Zones 9 and 10), begonias may stay green almost all year. However, even in the South, tuberous begonias benefit from a rest period. If you live in an area where the ground does not freeze, you might be tempted to leave them in the garden.

The risk here is not the cold, but the rain. Dormant tubers in wet winter soil will rot quickly. If your winters are rainy, it is still better to dig the tubers or move pots to a dry, covered porch. This allows you to control the moisture levels and ensure the tubers survive until the next growing season.

Growing in Containers vs. the Ground

It is much easier to winterize begonias grown in pots. You can simply move the entire container into a garage to let it dry out. If your begonias are in the ground, you have to be more careful when digging to avoid nicking the tubers. A small cut can become an entry point for disease. We often recommend starting begonias in pots for this very reason. It makes the end-of-season transition much smoother. If you want a ready-made shade combination, take a look at the Assorted Bold Container for Shade Collection.

Waking Up Your Begonias in Spring

The excitement of a new gardening season begins when you see those first signs of life from your stored tubers. In early spring, usually about 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost, it is time to wake up your dormant begonias.

Checking the Tubers

Take your tubers out of storage and give them a quick inspection. They should feel firm and heavy for their size. If you see small, pinkish buds (called "eyes") starting to emerge, your plant is already waking up.

Starting Tubers Indoors

To get a head start on the season, plant your tubers in small pots with fresh potting soil. For a product option that stays in the begonia family, see Begonia Upright Double Roseform Pink.

1. Placement: Identify the "hollow" or indented side of the tuber. This is the top.
2. Depth: Place the tuber on the soil surface and cover it with just a half-inch of soil.
3. Water: Give them a light watering to settle the soil.
4. Heat and Light: Place the pots in a warm spot (about 70°F) with bright, indirect light.

Be patient. It can take several weeks for the first stems to break through the soil. Once they do, keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy.

Moving Back Outdoors

Wait until the danger of frost has completely passed and the nights are consistently above 50°F before moving your begonias back outside. Start by placing them in a sheltered, shady spot for a few hours a day. This "hardening off" process helps the plants adjust to the wind and brighter light of the outdoors without getting stressed.

For planting timing and zone-based shipping, revisit the Shipping Information page.

Spring Transition Checklist:

• Inspect tubers for firm texture and new buds in early spring.
• Pot tubers with the indented side facing up.
• Provide warmth and bright light to encourage growth.
• Hardened off plants gradually before moving them to their permanent summer home.

Conclusion

Wintering begonias indoors is a simple and rewarding way to preserve the beauty of your garden. By identifying whether your plant needs a dry winter nap or a cozy spot as a houseplant, you can ensure it thrives year after year. Remember that success comes down to a few basic steps: timing your move before the frost, managing moisture levels, and providing the right light.

At Longfield Gardens, we believe that gardening should be an enjoyable journey. Saving your begonias is not just about saving money; it is about the satisfaction of watching a beloved plant return even bigger and better each spring. If you want to explore more begonia options, browse the full Begonia collection.

• Identify your begonia type to choose the right winter path.
• Keep tuberous types cool and dry.
• Provide humidity and bright light for indoor houseplants.
• Start tubers indoors in early spring for the best summer display.

Growing begonias is a wonderful way to bring color to the shade, and keeping them through the winter makes the experience even more fulfilling. With these simple steps, you are ready to enjoy your begonias for many seasons to come.

FAQ

Can I leave my begonias in the ground over winter?

In most parts of the United States, begonias cannot survive the winter outdoors. If you live in a cold climate where the ground freezes, the tubers or roots will perish. Even in warmer southern zones, excessive winter rain can cause dormant tubers to rot in the ground, so lifting them or protecting them from moisture is highly recommended. For help choosing the right planting window by region, see the Hardiness Zone Map.

Why is my begonia dropping leaves after I brought it inside?

It is very common for begonias to drop a few leaves when they move from the outdoors to the indoors. This is usually a reaction to the change in light levels and lower humidity. To help your plant adjust, place it in a bright spot and use a pebble tray to increase the moisture in the air around the foliage. You can also review our begonia care guide for more general troubleshooting.

Do I need to water my stored begonia tubers during the winter?

Generally, no. Tuberous begonias in dormancy need to stay dry to prevent rot. You should only add a tiny bit of moisture if the tubers look severely shriveled or "shrunken." In most cases, the ambient moisture in a cool basement or garage is enough to keep them healthy until spring. If you are planning a spring order, the Shipping Information page explains how Longfield schedules shipments by zone.

When is the best time to bring my begonias indoors?

You should move your begonias inside before the first hard frost of autumn. While some varieties can handle a very light chill, a freeze will damage the foliage and can potentially harm the tuber or root system. Monitoring your local weather forecast in late September or October is the best way to time your move perfectly. For help matching your timing to your region, check the Hardiness Zone Map.