Introduction
Begonias are some of the most rewarding plants in the summer garden. Whether you are growing the massive, rose-like blooms of tuberous begonias or the shimmering, metallic foliage of Rex varieties, these plants bring a tropical flair that is hard to match. The vibrant colors and lush textures create a high-impact look in containers, hanging baskets, and shaded garden beds. At Longfield Gardens, we believe that the joy of gardening comes from seeing these beautiful results year after year.
Because begonias are native to tropical and subtropical climates, they cannot survive freezing temperatures. In most parts of the United States, they are treated as annuals that finish their life cycle when the first frost hits. However, you don't have to start from scratch every spring. With a little bit of preparation, you can save your favorite plants and tubers to enjoy them for many seasons to come.
This guide will show you how to winter over begonia plants based on the specific variety you are growing. We will cover the steps for bringing plants indoors as houseplants and the process for storing dormant tubers. By following these simple methods, you can protect your investment and ensure a head start on a stunning garden next year.
Identify Your Begonia Type
Before you start preparing for winter, you must know which type of begonia you have. This is the most important step because different begonias require different care during the cold months. Some begonias go through a natural dormancy period, while others prefer to keep growing as houseplants.
Tuberous Begonias
These are famous for their large, showy flowers that often resemble roses or camellias. Varieties like the "Non-Stop" or "Illumination" series fall into this category. They grow from a thick, brown, potato-like underground structure called a tuber. Tuberous begonias must go dormant in the winter. They need a rest period to recharge their energy for the next growing season.
Wax Begonias
Commonly used as bedding plants, wax begonias have succulent-like stems and shiny, rounded leaves that can be green or bronze. They produce clusters of small flowers in white, pink, or red. These begonias do not have a tuber and do not go dormant. They can be brought indoors and kept as active houseplants throughout the winter.
Cane and Angel Wing Begonias
These begonias are named for their upright, woody stems that look like bamboo canes. Their leaves are often shaped like wings and may feature beautiful silver spots or streaks. Like wax begonias, these are fibrous-rooted and do not go dormant. They are very happy to spend the winter in a bright window inside your home.
Rex Begonias
Rex begonias are grown primarily for their incredible foliage. The leaves come in swirling patterns of silver, purple, pink, and deep green. They are also fibrous-rooted and will continue to grow through the winter if they are given enough humidity and light.
Key Takeaway: Always check the base of your plant. If you find a thick, woody tuber, the plant needs a dormant rest. If the roots are thin and fibrous, the plant can stay active indoors as a houseplant.
How to Winter Over Tuberose Begonias
Tuberous begonias are the most common type that gardeners want to save. Because these tubers get larger and more productive every year, wintering them over is a great way to get even bigger blooms next summer. The goal here is to guide the plant into a "sleep" state where it can survive the winter without water or light.
Step 1: Start the Dormancy Process
In late summer or early fall, begin to reduce the amount of water you give your tuberous begonias. This signals to the plant that the growing season is ending. As the temperatures drop, the foliage will naturally start to yellow and die back. This is a good thing—it means the plant is moving its energy from the leaves down into the tuber.
Wait until the first light frost kills the top growth, or until the stems naturally begin to pull away from the tuber. If a hard freeze is predicted, do not wait; bring the pots into a protected area like a garage or shed immediately.
Step 2: Lifting and Cleaning
If your begonias are in the ground, carefully dig them up using a hand trowel or garden fork. Be very gentle to avoid nicking or bruising the tuber, as wounds can lead to rot during storage. If they are in pots, you can simply pull the entire root ball out of the container.
Cut the stems back so only about an inch or two remains above the tuber. Don't worry if the stems feel mushy; this is normal as the plant shuts down. Shake off the excess soil, but don't feel the need to scrub them perfectly clean.
Step 3: The Curing Period
Before you pack the tubers away, they need to "cure." This involves letting them dry out so the outer skin can toughen up. Place the tubers in a single layer on a tray or a sheet of newspaper. Put them in a dry, warm, and well-ventilated spot away from direct sunlight.
Leave them to cure for about one to two weeks. During this time, any remaining soil will dry up and fall off easily, and the remaining stem stubs will usually wither and drop off on their own.
Step 4: Storage Conditions
Once the tubers are dry and the stems have fallen off, they are ready for their winter nap. You want to keep them in a place that is cool, dark, and dry. The ideal temperature is between 40°F and 50°F. A cool basement, a root cellar, or an insulated crawl space usually works well. Avoid areas that might freeze, like an uninsulated garage in a cold climate.
To store them, place the tubers in a cardboard box or a paper bag filled with a dry material that allows for some air circulation. Good options include:
- Dry peat moss
- Vermiculite
- Perlite
- Shredded paper
- Clean sawdust
Keep the tubers from touching each other if possible. This prevents a single spoiled tuber from affecting the others.
What to do next:
- Label your storage containers with the variety name and color.
- Check the tubers once a month during the winter.
- If you see any soft spots or mold, remove that tuber immediately.
- If the tubers look extremely shriveled, you can lightly mist the packing material with water, but keep it mostly dry.
Wintering Over Wax and Cane Begonias Indoors
If you have wax begonias or the tall, striking Angel Wing varieties, you don't need to worry about tubers or dormancy. These plants can simply move inside and become part of your indoor decor. However, the transition from the humid outdoors to a dry house can be a shock to the plant.
The Importance of Acclimation
Plants are sensitive to changes in light and humidity. If you move a begonia directly from a shady porch into a heated living room, it may drop many of its leaves. To prevent this, start the move gradually.
About two weeks before you plan to bring them in permanently, move the pots to a more shaded area. Then, start bringing them inside at night and putting them back out during the day. This slow transition helps the leaves adjust to lower light levels.
Preparing the Plant for the Move
Before the plant enters your home, give it a thorough "spa day."
- Pruning: Cut back any leggy growth or spent flowers. This makes the plant more manageable and encourages new, compact growth.
- Cleaning: Wipe down the leaves with a damp cloth to remove dust and outdoor debris.
- Pest Check: Inspect the undersides of leaves and the soil for hitchhikers like aphids or spider mites. A gentle spray with a hose or a treatment with insecticidal soap can solve most issues before they become an indoor problem.
- Repotting: If the plant is in the ground, transplant it into a pot with fresh, high-quality potting soil. Ensure the pot has excellent drainage holes.
Indoor Care Requirements
Once inside, your begonias will need a specific environment to stay healthy until spring.
Light: Place them in a spot with bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is often perfect. Direct afternoon sun through a south or west window might be too intense and could scorch the leaves, so use a sheer curtain if necessary.
Watering: Indoor plants grow more slowly, so they need less water. Wait until the top inch of soil feels dry before watering again. Begonias hate "wet feet," which can cause root rot. When you do water, do it thoroughly until water runs out the bottom of the pot, then empty the saucer.
Humidity: Most homes are very dry in the winter due to heating systems. Begonias love humidity. You can increase the moisture in the air by:
- Grouping plants together to create a microclimate.
- Placing the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water (make sure the pot sits on the pebbles, not in the water).
- Running a small humidifier in the room.
Fertilizer: Since the plant is in a resting phase, you can stop fertilizing or reduce it to a very weak strength once every six weeks.
Managing Rex Begonias in Winter
Rex begonias are slightly more temperamental than wax or cane begonias. They are very sensitive to dry air and soil. If a Rex begonia gets too dry, it may lose all its leaves and appear dead. However, the rhizome (the thick, horizontal stem at the soil surface) is often still alive.
If your Rex begonia drops its leaves, don't throw it away! Reduce watering and keep it in a cool, bright spot. Often, new leaves will begin to emerge as the days get longer in late winter. To keep them looking their best, prioritize high humidity. A bathroom with a window is often a great winter home for a Rex begonia because of the steam from the shower.
Timing and Temperature Considerations
Success with wintering over begonias depends heavily on timing. You are working against the clock of the first frost. In the United States, we use USDA Hardiness Zones to determine when the first frost is likely to occur.
Most begonias are only hardy in Zones 10 and 11. In all other zones, they must be brought in or stored. We ship our begonia tubers at the right time for your specific zone so they can be planted after the danger of frost has passed in the spring.
When wintering your plants over, remember these general temperature rules:
- Below 50°F: Growth slows significantly.
- Below 40°F: Tuberous begonias should be moved toward dormancy.
- 32°F (Freezing): Foliage will be damaged or killed.
- Below 25°F: The tubers themselves may freeze and die if they are not protected.
Key Takeaway: The goal is to get your plants into their winter positions before the thermometer hits 32°F. A light frost is okay for tuberous varieties, but dangerous for Rex and Wax varieties.
Waking Up Your Begonias in the Spring
The most exciting part of wintering over begonias is the moment they begin to wake up. This usually happens in late February or March, as the sun begins to stay in the sky longer.
For Tuberous Begonias
Take your tubers out of storage in early spring. Look for small, pink, or white "eyes" or buds starting to form on the concave (hollowed-out) side of the tuber.
To start them:
- Fill a shallow tray or small pots with moist potting soil.
- Place the tubers on the surface with the hollow side facing up.
- Press them halfway into the soil, but don't bury them completely.
- Keep them in a warm (about 70°F), bright spot.
- Water sparingly until you see green shoots appearing.
Once the shoots are a few inches tall and the weather has warmed up, you can move them into their final garden containers or beds.
For Indoor Houseplant Begonias
As spring approaches, your indoor begonias will show signs of renewed vigor. This is the time to:
- Increase your watering frequency slightly.
- Start using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer at half-strength every two weeks.
- Prune back any winter-weary stems to make room for fresh growth.
- Begin the acclimation process to move them back outside once nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced gardeners run into trouble sometimes. Most issues with wintering over begonias come from too much of a good thing—usually water.
Overwatering Dormant Tubers: This is the fastest way to lose your begonias. If the soil or storage medium is too wet, the tuber will rot. It should feel like a dry sponge, not a wet one.
Storing in the Wrong Temperature: If the storage area is too warm (above 60°F), the tubers may try to grow in the dark, resulting in weak, white sprouts that waste the plant's energy. If it's too cold (below freezing), the cells in the tuber will burst and the plant will die.
Skipping the Pest Check: Bringing one infested plant indoors can lead to an outbreak that spreads to all your other houseplants. Always inspect your plants carefully before the move.
Planting Too Early: It is tempting to put your beautiful begonias outside on the first warm day of April. However, a single cold night can ruin months of work. Be patient and wait until the soil and air are truly warm.
Creating a Low-Stress Routine
Gardening should be a source of relaxation, not a chore list that causes stress. If saving every single begonia feels overwhelming, choose just one or two of your absolute favorites to winter over.
We at Longfield Gardens focus on making the process simple. By breaking the task down into small steps—identifying the type, prepping the plant, and finding a cool spot—you can successfully keep your plants alive without much effort.
The beauty of begonias is that they are quite resilient once you understand their basic needs. Whether you are tucking a tuber into a box of peat moss or placing a colorful Rex begonia on your kitchen windowsill, you are participating in a rewarding cycle of growth.
Key Takeaway: Success with begonias isn't about complex techniques; it's about matching your care to the plant's natural rhythm. Let tuberous types sleep and let fibrous types stay bright.
Conclusion
Wintering over begonia plants is a simple and satisfying way to extend the life of your garden. By identifying whether your plant needs a dormant rest or a cozy spot indoors, you can ensure that its beauty returns year after year. From the careful curing of tubers to the gentle acclimation of houseplants, these small steps pay off in a big way when spring arrives.
- Identify if your begonia is tuberous (needs dormancy) or fibrous (stays active).
- Store tuberous types in a cool, dry, dark place in a breathable medium.
- Move indoor begonias to bright, indirect light and maintain humidity.
- Wait for warm weather before moving any begonias back outside in the spring.
The next time you see a spectacular begonia in full bloom, remember that it can be the start of a multi-year friendship. We invite you to explore our selection at Longfield Gardens to find new varieties that will bring color to your home and garden for seasons to come.
FAQ
How do I know if my begonia is dead or just dormant?
If the plant is a tuberous type, the stems falling off and the foliage yellowing is a natural part of dormancy, not a sign of death. Check the tuber itself; if it is firm and heavy, it is healthy and resting. If it is mushy, hollow, or crumbles when touched, it has likely succumbed to rot or disease.
Can I leave my tuberous begonias in their pots over the winter?
Yes, you can leave them in their pots if the soil is allowed to dry out completely. Move the entire pot to a cool, frost-free area like a basement. In the spring, you can remove the tuber to give it fresh soil, or simply start watering again once you see new growth emerging. For additional guidance, see this guide to growing tuberous begonias in pots.
Why is my begonia dropping its leaves after I brought it inside?
This is usually caused by a sudden change in environment. The lower light levels and lower humidity of a house can shock the plant. To help it recover, make sure it is in a bright spot, increase the humidity with a pebble tray, and avoid overwatering while it adjusts to the new conditions. The indoor begonia care guide covers these adjustments in more detail.
Do I need to fertilize my begonias during the winter?
Tuberous begonias in storage should never be fertilized as they have no leaves or roots to process the nutrients. For begonias kept as houseplants, it is best to stop fertilizing or use a very weak solution until late winter when you see active new growth starting again. Over-fertilizing in winter can lead to weak, "leggy" stems.
