How to Winterize Begonia Plants

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Identifying Your Begonia Type
3. How to Winterize Tuberous Begonias
4. Winterizing Wax and Cane Begonias Indoors
5. Care for Rex and Rhizomatous Begonias
6. Essential Supplies for Success
7. Timing and Local Conditions
8. Troubleshooting Winter Issues
9. Transitioning to Spring
10. Conclusion
11. FAQ

Introduction

The lush, colorful blooms of begonias are often the highlight of a summer garden. Whether they are spilling over the edges of a hanging basket or brightening a shaded border, these begonias provide a tropical flair that is hard to match. At Longfield Gardens, we know how rewarding it is to see these plants thrive, and the good news is that you do not have to say goodbye to them when the weather turns cold.

Learning how to winterize begonia plants is a simple way to preserve your favorite varieties and enjoy them year after year. If you love trailing plants, our Hanging Begonias collection is a natural fit. This process allows the plants to rest and recharge during the winter months so they are ready to put on another spectacular show next spring. This guide is designed for home gardeners who want clear, practical steps to protect their begonias from the frost.

We will cover the different methods for winterizing based on the specific type of begonia you are growing. Whether your plants need a cozy spot on a windowsill or a dark corner in the basement, we have the information you need to keep them safe until spring. With a little bit of preparation, you can ensure your begonias remain a vibrant part of your landscape for many seasons to come.

Identifying Your Begonia Type

Before you start the winterization process, you must determine which type of begonia you have. Begonias are a diverse group of plants, and they do not all handle winter the same way. Some types prefer to go completely dormant, while others can live quite happily as houseplants throughout the colder months.

Tuberous Begonias

Tuberous begonias are famous for their large, rose-like flowers and are often grown from a potato-like root called a tuber. These plants are true "summer bulbs" and require a period of dormancy. This means they need to shut down and rest in a cool, dry place during the winter. Popular series like Non-Stop Begonias fall into this category.

Picotee White is another tuberous variety. If you see a thick, woody base at the soil line, you are likely dealing with a tuberous variety.

If you love that classic rose-like form, the Upright Double Begonias collection is also worth a look.

Wax and Fibrous Begonias

Wax begonias are the classic bedding plants often seen in garden borders. They have shiny, succulent-like leaves and smaller, more frequent flowers. These plants have fibrous root systems rather than tubers. Unlike their tuberous cousins, they do not go dormant. If you want to keep them over the winter, you will need to bring them indoors as active houseplants.

Rex and Rhizomatous Begonias

Rex begonias are mostly grown for their stunning foliage. Rex begonias feature swirling patterns and metallic colors, while rhizomatous begonias grow from thick stems that creep along the soil surface. Like wax begonias, these do not require a dormant period. They are often kept as year-round houseplants, but they may need a little extra care to transition from the outdoor patio to the indoor living room.

Cane-Type Begonias

Commonly known as Angel Wing begonias, these plants have upright, bamboo-like stems and attractive, wing-shaped leaves. They are very sturdy and, like fibrous types, stay active all winter. They simply need a bright spot indoors to keep growing.

What to do next:

• Check the base of your plant for a tuber or fibrous roots.
• Look at the leaf shape and texture to confirm the variety.
• Group your plants by type so you can follow the correct winterizing method for each.

How to Winterize Tuberous Begonias

Tuberous begonias are tropical plants that cannot survive a freeze. In most parts of the United States, the best way to keep them safe is to lift the tubers from the ground or pots and store them indoors. This process mimics their natural cycle of resting during the dry season in their native habitats. For a broader look at the family, see All About Begonias.

Step 1: Wait for the Right Temperature

Timing is everything when it comes to lifting tubers. You want to wait until the foliage starts to turn yellow or until the first light frost has touched the leaves. A light frost will blacken the foliage but won't harm the tuber underground. This signal tells the plant to move its energy down into the tuber for winter storage. If you live in a region where frost is rare, simply wait until the plant naturally begins to look tired and the leaves start to yellow in late autumn.

Step 2: Digging and Lifting

Carefully dig up the tubers using a garden fork or a small trowel. Be sure to start several inches away from the stem to avoid nicking the tuber. If your begonias are in containers, you can gently tip the pot over and slide the root ball out. Once the plant is out of the soil, shake off the excess dirt, but do not worry about getting them perfectly clean just yet.

Step 3: The Curing Process

Curing is just a fancy word for air-drying. Before you put your tubers away for the winter, they need to dry out to prevent rot. Place the lifted tubers in a protected, dry area out of direct sunlight. A garage, porch, or shed works well. Let them sit for about a week. As they dry, the remaining stems will become brittle and eventually fall off on their own. Once the stems are dry, you can gently brush away any remaining loose soil.

Step 4: Preparing for Storage

After the tubers are dry and clean, it is time to pack them away. We recommend placing each tuber in its own small paper bag or wrapping it in newspaper. This provides a bit of insulation and ensures that if one tuber happens to develop a soft spot, it won't affect the others in the box.

Place the wrapped tubers into a sturdy cardboard box. To keep the moisture levels stable, you can surround them with slightly damp peat moss, vermiculite, or even clean wood shavings. The goal is to keep them from drying out completely without making them wet.

Step 5: Finding the Perfect Spot

Store your box of tubers in a cool, dark, and dry place. An unheated basement, a root cellar, or a cool closet is ideal. The temperature should ideally stay between 40°F and 50°F. Avoid areas that might freeze, like an uninsulated attic, and keep the box away from heat sources like a furnace.

Key Takeaway: Winterizing tuberous begonias is a process of helping the plant transition into dormancy. By drying and storing the tubers in a cool, dark place, you protect them from the cold and set them up for a healthy start in the spring.

Winterizing Wax and Cane Begonias Indoors

Because wax and cane-type begonias do not go dormant, winterizing them involves bringing the entire plant indoors to live as a houseplant. This is a great way to keep your home feeling green and bright during the snowy months.

Moving Day Preparation

Before you bring any plant indoors, it is important to give it a thorough inspection. Look under the leaves and along the stems for any hitchhiking insects. A quick spray with a garden hose can help wash away dust and any lingering pests. It is much easier to manage these things while the plant is still outside.

Choosing the Right Pot

If your begonias are already in decorative containers, you can simply bring the whole pot inside. If they are growing in the garden bed, you will need to transplant them. Use a high-quality potting mix that drains well. "Drainage" is simply how fast water leaves the soil; begonias dislike "wet feet," so a mix with plenty of perlite or peat moss is helpful. Ensure your indoor pots have drainage holes at the bottom.

Light and Temperature Needs

In the garden, begonias often enjoy filtered light or partial shade. Indoors, they will need as much bright, indirect light as you can provide. A south-facing or east-facing window is usually the best spot. If you notice the plant becoming "leggy"—meaning the stems are getting very long with few leaves—it is likely searching for more light. For more on placement, see Where to Plant Begonias: Sun or Shade?.

Keep the plants away from cold drafts near doors or windows, as well as the dry heat coming from floor vents. They prefer a steady room temperature that feels comfortable to you.

Adjusting Water and Humidity

Indoor air in the winter is notoriously dry. You can help your begonias feel at home by increasing the humidity around them. A simple "pebble tray" is an easy win. Fill a shallow tray with small stones and add water until it is just below the top of the stones. Set your begonia pot on the stones. As the water evaporates, it creates a small zone of moist air around the plant.

When it comes to watering, follow the "deep, then dry" rule. Water the plant until it runs out the bottom of the pot, then wait until the top inch of soil feels dry before watering again. During the winter, begonias grow more slowly, so they won't need as much water as they did during the heat of July.

Care for Rex and Rhizomatous Begonias

Rex begonias are prized for their dramatic foliage, but they can be a bit more sensitive to the change in seasons. These plants are particularly fond of high humidity. If the edges of the leaves start to turn brown and crispy, the air in your home is likely too dry. For a closer look at their light preferences, see Are Begonias Low Light Plants?.

Aside from the pebble tray mentioned earlier, grouping several plants together can help create a small microclimate of higher humidity. Rex begonias also prefer to be kept consistently moist but never soggy. Think of a damp sponge that has been wrung out—that is the level of moisture they like in their soil.

Rhizomatous begonias are a bit tougher. Because they store some energy in their thick, creeping stems, they can handle slightly drier conditions than Rex varieties. They still enjoy bright, indirect light and will often reward you with sprays of delicate flowers in the late winter or early spring if they are happy in their indoor spot.

Essential Supplies for Success

Having the right tools on hand makes the winterization process much smoother. You likely already have most of these items in your home or garden shed.

• Trowel or Garden Fork: For lifting tubers without damage.
• Cardboard Boxes: For storing dormant tubers.
• Paper Bags or Newspaper: To wrap individual tubers.
• Storage Medium: Peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings to maintain humidity for tubers.
• Potting Mix: A fresh, lightweight mix for those plants moving indoors.
• Labels and Markers: This is a step many gardeners skip, but it is very helpful. Label each bag or pot with the variety and color so you know what you are planting next spring.
• Watering Can: With a narrow spout for precise watering of indoor plants.

Timing and Local Conditions

The exact date for winterizing your begonias depends on where you live and the current weather patterns. If you are planning an order, our Shipping Information page explains how timing works by zone. Nature does not always follow a calendar, so it is important to observe your plants and the local forecast.

The Frost Factor

In most regions, the first frost is the ultimate deadline. For tuberous begonias, a light frost is actually helpful as it triggers the dormancy phase. However, for wax, Rex, and cane begonias, you should aim to bring them indoors before night temperatures consistently dip below 50°F. These plants are native to tropical regions and can become stressed by the cold even before a freeze occurs.

Regional Variations

If you live in a very warm climate (Zones 9-11), you may be able to leave your begonias in the ground or in pots outdoors all year. Even in these areas, it is a good idea to move pots to a sheltered location or mulch garden beds heavily if an unusual cold snap is predicted. If you are not sure where you fit, check the Hardiness Zone Map. At our trial gardens, we often observe how different varieties respond to temperature shifts, and we find that providing a little extra protection always pays off.

Troubleshooting Winter Issues

Even with the best care, you might encounter a few hiccups during the winter. Most of these issues have simple, positive solutions.

Leaf Drop on Indoor Plants

It is very common for begonias to drop a few leaves when they first move indoors. This is simply the plant's way of adjusting to the lower light levels of your home. It isn't a sign of failure; it is just a transition. Keep providing consistent light and water, and you will soon see new growth that is adapted to the indoor environment.

Soft Spots on Tubers

When you check on your stored tubers (which we recommend doing once a month), you might find one that feels soft or mushy. This is usually caused by too much moisture. If the spot is small, you can sometimes cut it away with a clean knife and let the tuber dry out again. If the whole tuber is soft, it is best to discard it so it doesn't affect the others in the box.

Leggy Growth

If your indoor begonias are growing long, thin stems with lots of space between the leaves, they are telling you they need more light. Move them to a brighter window or consider using a simple LED grow light to supplement the natural sunshine. You can also pinch back the tips of the stems to encourage the plant to grow fuller and more compact.

Lack of Blooms Indoors

Don't be discouraged if your begonias stop blooming in the middle of winter. The shorter days and lower light levels make it hard for them to produce flowers. Focus on keeping the foliage healthy. As the days get longer in February and March, the plants will naturally start to produce new buds.

What to do next:

• Check your indoor plants once a week for soil moisture.
• Peek at your stored tubers once a month to ensure they stay firm.
• Rotate your indoor pots every two weeks so all sides of the plant get equal light.

Transitioning to Spring

As winter fades and the days grow longer, your begonias will start to wake up. This is an exciting time for any gardener.

Waking Up Tubers

In late February or early March, you can bring your stored tubers out of their dark corner. Place them in a shallow tray filled with moist potting soil, with the hollow side of the tuber facing up. Keep them in a warm, bright spot. For an earlier start next season, see How to Start Tuberous Begonias Indoors.

Once you see small pink or green sprouts emerging, you can move them into individual pots.

Hardening Off

Whether you have overwintered tubers or kept plants as houseplants, they need a gradual transition back to the outdoors. This process is called "hardening off." Start by placing the plants outside in a shaded, protected spot for just an hour or two on a mild day. Gradually increase their time outside over the course of 7 to 10 days. For more on the move outdoors, read When to Plant Begonias Outside for the Best Blooms. This allows the leaves to toughen up and get used to the wind and brighter sun.

Conclusion

Winterizing your begonias is a rewarding task that bridges the gap between gardening seasons. By understanding whether your plant needs a dormant rest or a sunny indoor window, you can preserve the beauty you worked so hard to cultivate during the summer. Whether you are lifting tubers for the first time or moving a favorite Angel Wing begonia to your living room, these steps ensure your plants stay healthy and strong.

The joy of gardening often comes from these small acts of care. Taking the time to protect your begonias today means you will have larger, more established plants to enjoy next year. It is a cycle of growth that makes every season special.

• Identify if your begonia is tuberous (needs dormancy) or fibrous (stays active).
• Lift and dry tubers after the first light frost.
• Store tubers in a cool, dark place in a dry medium like peat moss.
• Bring indoor-active begonias inside before night temps hit 50°F and provide bright light and humidity.

We invite you to explore our selection of begonia flower bulbs and helpful resources at Longfield Gardens to help your garden thrive in every season. Our goal is to make gardening successful and enjoyable for everyone, one bloom at a time.

"Success in winterizing begonias isn't about perfection; it's about providing the basic conditions the plant needs to rest and recover. Every tuber you save is a head start on next year's beauty."

FAQ

Should I cut back my begonias before bringing them inside?

For wax or cane begonias moving indoors as houseplants, you do not need to cut them back significantly. You can trim away any dead or damaged leaves to keep the plant tidy, but keeping the healthy stems intact allows the plant to continue growing. For tuberous begonias, you should wait until the stems are dry and brittle during the curing process before removing them.

Can I store my tuberous begonias in the pots they grew in?

Yes, you can overwinter tuberous begonias in their pots if the soil is allowed to dry out completely. Move the entire pot to a cool, frost-free area like a basement. In the spring, you can simply tip the pot, refresh the top few inches of soil, and start watering again to wake up the tuber.

My indoor begonia is losing all its leaves; is it dying?

Not necessarily. Rapid leaf drop is usually a reaction to a sudden change in environment, such as a drop in humidity or a move from bright outdoor sun to a darker indoor room. As long as the stems remain firm and green, the plant is likely just adjusting. Increase the humidity with a pebble tray and ensure it is in the brightest spot possible.

How often should I check on my stored begonia tubers?

It is a good habit to check your stored tubers about once a month. Gently feel them to ensure they are still firm. If they feel extremely shriveled, you can lightly mist the storage medium with water. If you find any that are soft or showing signs of rot, remove them immediately to protect the rest of the collection.