Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Understanding Begonia Growth Cycles
- How Different Types of Begonias Overwinter
- The Exception: Hardy Begonia (Begonia grandis)
- Step-by-Step: How to Store Tuberous Begonias
- Caring for Begonias as Indoor Houseplants
- Moving Begonias Back Outside in Spring
- Troubleshooting Common Issues
- The Reward of Repeat Blooms
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Introduction
There is nothing quite like the sight of begonias in full bloom. Whether they are cascading from a hanging basket or filling a shady garden bed with color, these plants are favorites for their reliability and stunning variety. At Longfield Gardens, we enjoy seeing how these tropical beauties transform a garden from late spring all the way through the first frost of autumn.
If you have spent the summer admiring your begonias, you are likely wondering if they will grow again next year. The short answer is yes, but the method depends entirely on the type of begonia you have and your local climate. This guide is for any gardener who wants to save their favorite plants and enjoy them for many seasons to come.
Understanding how to overwinter your begonias is the key to success. Most begonias are tender perennials, meaning they can live for many years if protected from freezing temperatures. By following a few simple steps, you can help your plants transition from the garden to a safe winter home.
Understanding Begonia Growth Cycles
To answer if your begonias will grow again, we first need to look at how they grow. In most parts of the United States, begonias are sold alongside annuals. This leads many people to believe the plants naturally die after one season. In reality, begonias are tropical and subtropical plants that simply do not like the cold.
Annuals vs. Perennials
A true annual plant goes from seed to flower to seed in a single year and then dies. A perennial plant lives for more than two years. Begonias fall into a category called "tender perennials." They want to live for many years, but they lack the internal "antifreeze" that hardy perennials like hostas or daylilies possess.
If you live in a warm climate where frost never occurs, your begonias may stay green and bloom all year. For gardeners in cooler zones, the plants will perish if left outdoors in the winter. However, because they are perennials at heart, you can intervene and save them.
The Role of Dormancy
Some begonias, specifically tuberous varieties, have a built-in survival mechanism called dormancy. As the days grow shorter and the temperatures drop, these plants begin to store energy in their thick, potato-like roots (tubers). They shed their leaves and go to sleep for the winter. Other types, like wax or rex begonias, do not have a dormant period and prefer to keep growing as long as they stay warm.
Key Takeaway: Most begonias are perennials that can live for years, but they require protection from frost to survive until the next growing season.
How Different Types of Begonias Overwinter
Not all begonias are treated the same when the seasons change. Identifying which type you have is the first step in ensuring they grow again next year.
Tuberous Begonias
Tuberous begonias are famous for their large, rose-like flowers and dramatic colors. Varieties like the Non-Stop Begonias series are staples in shade gardens. These begonias grow from a central tuber that sits just at or below the soil surface.
Because they have a tuber, these are the easiest begonias to "recycle" for next year. They naturally want to go dormant in the fall. Once they go to sleep, you can store the tubers in a cool, dry place and replant them in the spring. This is a very reliable way to build a larger and more beautiful garden every year without buying new plants.
Wax or Fibrous Begonias
Wax begonias are the small, mounded plants often used for mass plantings in garden beds. They have shiny, succulent-like leaves that are either green or bronze. These begonias have fibrous root systems rather than tubers.
Wax begonias do not go dormant. If you want them to grow again next year, you must bring the entire plant indoors before the first frost. They can live on a sunny windowsill as houseplants until the weather warms up again in the spring. Many gardeners find it easier to take small cuttings of these plants in late summer to start fresh "babies" for the following year.
Rex and Cane-Type Begonias
Rex begonias are grown primarily for their spectacular foliage, which can feature swirls of silver, purple, and pink. Cane-type begonias, including the popular Angel Wing varieties, have tall, upright stems that resemble bamboo.
Like wax begonias, these types do not have a dormant phase. They are very popular as year-round houseplants. If you have been growing them in containers on your porch, you can simply move the pots inside for the winter. They appreciate the stable temperatures and humidity of a home environment.
What to do next:
- Check the base of your plant: A thick, woody, or bulb-like base usually indicates a tuberous begonia.
- Check the leaves: Waxy, smooth leaves often belong to fibrous bedding begonias.
- Decide your strategy: Will you store tubers or bring the whole plant inside?
The Exception: Hardy Begonia (Begonia grandis)
While most begonias are tender, there is one notable exception that can stay in the ground in many US gardens. Begonia grandis, often called the hardy begonia, is a tough relative that can survive outdoors in USDA Hardiness Zones 6 through 9.
This plant looks very much like its tropical cousins, with lush green leaves and dainty pink flowers that bloom in late summer. Instead of needing to be dug up, it survives the winter by producing tiny "bulbils" (small clones) that drop to the ground and grow the following spring. If you live in a compatible zone, this is the most hands-off way to ensure begonias return to your garden every year.
Step-by-Step: How to Store Tuberous Begonias
If you have tuberous varieties like the Roseform Pink or Pendula types, storing them is a straightforward process. Following these steps ensures your tubers stay healthy and ready to sprout when spring arrives.
1. Reduce Water and Fertilizer
In late summer or early fall, stop fertilizing your begonias. As the temperatures start to cool, begin to reduce the amount of water you provide. This signals to the plant that the growing season is ending and it is time to start moving energy down into the tuber.
2. Monitor for the First Frost
Tuberous begonias can handle a very light, "black" frost that singes the leaves, but they cannot handle a hard freeze that penetrates the soil or the pot. Many gardeners prefer to wait until the foliage begins to yellow or until the first light frost kills the top growth. This ensures the plant has finished its job for the year.
3. Lift the Tubers
Carefully dig up the tubers using a small garden fork or trowel. Be careful not to nick or cut the tuber, as wounds can lead to rot during storage. If the begonias are in pots, you can simply lift the entire root ball out of the container.
Cut the stems back to about an inch above the tuber. Do not pull the stems off; they will eventually dry up and fall off on their own during the curing process.
4. Curing and Cleaning
Place the tubers in a warm, dry, and well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight. Let them dry for about one to two weeks. This "curing" period allows the outer skin to toughen up. Once they are dry, gently brush off any loose soil with your hands or a soft brush. If the old stems haven't fallen off yet, they should be dry enough to be easily removed now.
5. Proper Storage
Place the clean tubers in a breathable container. A cardboard box, a paper bag, or a plastic bin with holes works well. Pack them in a dry material that will help regulate moisture and keep the tubers from touching each other. Good options include:
- Dry peat moss
- Vermiculite or perlite
- Wood shavings or sawdust
- Shredded newspaper
Store the box in a cool, dark, and dry place. A basement, unheated closet, or crawl space is ideal. Aim for temperatures between 40°F and 50°F. Do not let them freeze.
Key Takeaway: Success with tuberous begonias comes down to "clean and dry." Ensuring the tubers are cured and stored in a breathable medium prevents rot and keeps them viable for spring.
Caring for Begonias as Indoor Houseplants
For wax, rex, and cane-type begonias, the best way to ensure they grow again is to treat them like houseplants. This transition is usually very successful if you follow a few simple rules.
Timing the Move
Don't wait for the frost to bring these begonias inside. They are most comfortable when moved indoors while the outdoor temperatures are still similar to the temperature inside your home. Aim to move them when night temperatures are consistently around 50°F to 60°F.
Pest Inspection
Before bringing any plant inside, give it a thorough inspection. Check the undersides of leaves and the stems for any hitchhiking insects. A quick spray with a garden hose can help wash away dust and some pests. You may also want to repot the plant in fresh potting soil if it was growing in the ground to avoid bringing soil-dwelling insects into your home.
Light and Humidity Requirements
Indoors, begonias need bright, indirect light. A window facing east or west is often perfect. Avoid placing them in direct, harsh afternoon sun, which can scorch their leaves.
Homes can be very dry in the winter due to heating systems. Begonias love humidity, so consider placing the pots on a "pebble tray." This is simply a tray filled with pebbles and a little water. The bottom of the pot should rest on the pebbles, not in the water. As the water evaporates, it creates a humid microclimate around the plant.
Watering Indoors
Begonias need less water in the winter because they grow more slowly. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out before watering again. Overwatering is the most common reason begonias fail indoors, as it leads to root rot. If the leaves start to drop, it is often a sign that the plant is adjusting to the new environment or that the soil is too wet.
Moving Begonias Back Outside in Spring
Whether you stored tubers or kept plants as houseplants, the return to the garden is an exciting time. However, rushing this process can be a mistake.
For Stored Tubers
Start your stored tubers about 6 to 8 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area. This gives them a "head start."
- Place the tubers in a shallow tray of damp potting soil.
- Make sure the hollow side (the "bowl" part) is facing up.
- Keep them in a warm spot (around 70°F) with bright light.
- Water sparingly until you see sprouts emerging.
Once the sprouts are a few inches tall and the danger of frost has passed, you can move them into their permanent garden pots or beds.
The Hardening Off Process
Plants that have spent the winter indoors—whether as houseplants or newly sprouted tubers—need time to adjust to the outdoors. This is called "hardening off."
Start by placing them in a shaded, protected spot outside for an hour or two during a warm day. Gradually increase their time outdoors over the course of a week or two. This prevents the leaves from being "sunburned" or damaged by wind. Once they have acclimated, they are ready to grow and bloom all summer long.
What to do next:
- Check your local frost dates to plan your spring start.
- Prepare fresh potting soil and clean containers.
- Observe the first sprouts for signs of healthy, vigorous growth.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even with the best care, you might run into a few hurdles when trying to make begonias grow again. Most of these have very simple fixes.
Tubers Feeling Soft or Mushy
If you check your stored tubers and they feel soft or look shriveled, rot has likely set in. This usually happens if the tubers were not dried enough before storage or if the storage area was too damp. In the future, ensure the curing process is thorough and use a drier packing medium like vermiculite.
No Sprouts in Spring
If your tubers aren't sprouting after several weeks in a warm spot, they may be too deep in the soil or the room may be too cold. Tuberous begonias need warmth to "wake up." Try moving the tray to a warmer area, such as the top of a refrigerator or near a heat vent (but not directly on it).
Leggy Growth
Plants kept as houseplants over the winter often get "leggy," meaning they have long, thin stems with few leaves. This is usually caused by a lack of light. In the spring, you can simply prune these stems back to a node (the point where a leaf meets the stem). This encourages the plant to grow bushier and stronger as it moves back outside.
The Reward of Repeat Blooms
There is a unique satisfaction in seeing a plant you saved from last year begin to bloom again. It connects the seasons and allows you to enjoy larger, more established plants over time. At Longfield Gardens, we believe that gardening should be a rewarding and sustainable hobby. By learning the simple rhythms of your begonias, you turn a one-season display into a long-term investment in your landscape’s beauty.
Whether you are tucking tubers into a box of peat moss or finding the perfect windowsill for an Angel Wing begonia, you are participating in the wonderful cycle of the garden. With a little patience and these practical steps, your begonias will indeed grow again next year, brighter and more beautiful than ever.
Conclusion
Making your begonias grow again next year is one of the easiest ways to expand your garden. By identifying whether you have tuberous, fibrous, or foliage begonias, you can choose the right method to keep them safe through the winter. Remember that these plants are naturally resilient; they simply need a little help to escape the cold.
- Tuberous begonias are best stored as dry tubers in a cool, dark place.
- Wax and Rex begonias can spend the winter as beautiful houseplants.
- Timing is everything—always bring your plants or tubers inside before the first hard freeze.
- Patience in spring ensures your plants are strong and ready for the sun.
"Saving your begonias is a simple way to bring a piece of your summer garden into the next year, making each season feel like a continuation of the last."
We invite you to explore the many varieties of begonias we offer at Longfield Gardens and start your own collection today. With a little care, these stunning flowers will be a part of your garden for many years to come.
FAQ
Can I leave my begonias in the ground over winter?
Only the hardy begonia (Begonia grandis) can stay in the ground in USDA Zones 6–9. For all other types, such as tuberous or wax begonias, the freezing winter temperatures will kill the root system, meaning they will not grow back the following year unless they are dug up or moved indoors.
How do I know if my begonia is the tuberous type?
You can check by gently moving a bit of soil away from the base of the plant. Tuberous begonias grow from a thick, brown, somewhat flat or bowl-shaped structure. If the plant has a mass of thin, hair-like roots instead, it is a fibrous or wax begonia.
When is the best time to dig up begonias for storage?
The best time is usually in late autumn, just after the first very light frost has touched the leaves. This light frost signals the plant to go into dormancy, but you must lift the tubers before a "hard" freeze occurs, which could damage the tuber itself.
Do I need to water begonias while they are in winter storage?
No, tuberous begonias that are stored as dry tubers should not be watered at all. They are in a state of deep sleep and do not need moisture. If you are keeping wax or rex begonias as houseplants, however, you should water them sparingly whenever the top inch of soil feels dry.