Introduction
Begonias are a favorite for many gardeners because they bring a brilliant splash of color to the shady corners of the yard. Whether you love the massive, rose-like blooms of tuberous varieties or the shimmering, textured leaves of Rex begonias, these plants are remarkably rewarding. At Longfield Gardens, we enjoy how begonias can transform a simple patio or window box into a lush, tropical-looking retreat with very little effort, especially when you start with a proven selection like Begonia Non Stop Mix - Bulk Offer.
The question of whether begonias will grow back is one of the most common things we hear from home gardeners as the seasons change. Because these plants are native to tropical and subtropical climates, they are sensitive to the cold, but that does not mean they have to be treated as disposable annuals. With a little bit of care and the right timing, you can enjoy the same plants year after year. If you want a broader look at planting and care basics, All About Begonias is a helpful place to start.
This guide will explain which types of begonias can return in the spring, how to protect them through the winter months, and the simple steps you can take to ensure they wake up healthy and ready to bloom. Most begonias are actually tender perennials that can live for many years if you give them a safe place to rest during the winter.
Understanding Your Begonia Type
To know if your begonia will grow back, you first need to identify which type you are growing. Begonias are a diverse family, and each group has a different way of handling the change in seasons. While they all share a love for warmth, their "survival strategy" for winter varies.
Tuberous Begonias
These are the showstoppers of the begonia world, known for their large, dramatic flowers that come in shades of red, pink, yellow, and orange. Popular series like Non-Stop or the cascading Illumination varieties fall into this category. These plants grow from a thick, potato-like structure called a tuber. In most parts of the United States, tuberous begonias will not survive a freeze in the ground, but they are designed to go dormant. You can lift these tubers and store them indoors to grow back next year.
Wax Begonias (Fibrous-Rooted)
Commonly used as bedding plants in garden borders, wax begonias have succulent stems and shiny, rounded leaves that are either green or bronze. They have a fine, fibrous root system rather than a tuber. These are typically grown as annuals in cooler climates because they do not have a natural dormant phase. However, they can grow back if you bring the entire plant indoors before the first frost and keep it as a houseplant.
Rex and Rhizomatous Begonias
These types are grown primarily for their stunning foliage. Rex begonias feature swirls of silver, burgundy, and purple on their leaves. They grow from rhizomes—thick stems that creep along the surface of the soil. Like wax begonias, they do not go dormant. To see them grow back next year, you must move them inside to a bright, warm spot during the winter.
Cane Begonias (Angel Wing)
Named for their tall, bamboo-like stems and wing-shaped leaves, cane begonias are upright growers. They are often kept as houseplants year-round, but many gardeners move them outside for the summer. They will continue to grow and bloom as long as the temperature stays above 50°F.
Key Takeaway: Tuberous begonias are the easiest to "save" because they naturally want to sleep through the winter. Other types must stay in active growth indoors to survive until spring.
How Tuberous Begonias Grow Back
Tuberous begonias are the most common variety that gardeners choose to overwinter. These plants are built for a cycle of growth and rest. During the summer, the tuber stores energy from the sun and nutrients from the soil. As the days grow shorter and the air turns crisp in the fall, the plant begins to transition into a resting state.
In USDA hardiness zones 9 through 11, tuberous begonias may stay in the ground year-round if the soil stays dry and does not freeze. If you are not sure which zone you garden in, the Hardiness Zone Map can help you check. However, for most of the country, the tuber must be removed from the garden. Think of this dormant period as a long nap. The plant sheds its leaves and stems, focusing all its life force into the tuber.
When you provide the right storage conditions—somewhere dark, dry, and cool—the tuber remains alive but inactive. Once the warmth of spring returns and you provide moisture and light, the "eyes" on the tuber will sprout, and the plant will grow back, often larger and more vigorous than the previous year.
Step-by-Step Guide to Overwintering Tubers
Lifting and storing begonia tubers is a simple afternoon project that can save you the cost of buying new plants every spring. The goal is to keep the tuber firm and dry until it is time to plant again.
1. Watch the Weather
The best time to start the process is after the first light frost has touched the foliage, or when the leaves begin to turn yellow naturally in the fall. A light frost will usually blacken the leaves but won't hurt the tuber underground. This is the plant’s signal that it is time to go to sleep.
2. Dig and Clean
Gently lift the tubers from the soil using a garden fork or a trowel. Be careful not to nick or bruise the tuber, as wounds can lead to rot during storage. Shake off the excess soil. At this stage, the stems may still be attached. You can trim them back to about an inch or two above the tuber, but don't force them off; they will eventually dry up and fall off on their own.
3. The Curing Process
Curing is a fancy word for letting the tubers dry out. Place the cleaned tubers on a tray or a layer of newspaper in a warm, dry, and well-ventilated spot. Keep them out of direct sunlight. Let them dry for about one to two weeks. During this time, the outer skin will toughen up, and any remaining bits of stem will become brittle and easy to remove.
4. Pack for Storage
Once the tubers are dry to the touch, it is time to pack them away. You want to surround them with a material that breathes but offers some insulation.
- Materials to use: Dry peat moss, sawdust, sand, or shredded paper.
- Containers: Cardboard boxes or paper bags work best. Avoid plastic bins or sealed bags, as they trap moisture and cause the tubers to rot.
- Spacing: Ensure the tubers aren't touching each other. This prevents a single bad tuber from spreading rot to its neighbors.
5. Find the Right Spot
Store your box of tubers in a cool, dark, and dry place. A basement, a heated crawlspace, or a closet in a cool room is ideal. The temperature should ideally stay between 45°F and 55°F. It must stay above freezing, but it should be cool enough that the tubers don't try to sprout too early.
What to do next:
- Check your stored tubers once a month during the winter.
- If a tuber feels soft or mushy, discard it immediately.
- If a tuber looks shriveled, you can lightly mist the packing material with water, but keep it very minimal.
Saving Wax and Rex Begonias as Houseplants
Since wax, Rex, and cane begonias do not go dormant, they will only grow back if they are kept in an active growing state. The most successful way to do this is by bringing them indoors before the nighttime temperatures drop below 50°F. If you are trying to match a variety to the right growing conditions, Are Begonias Sun or Shade Plants? is a useful companion guide.
Begonias make wonderful houseplants, but they do need to adjust to the transition. When you bring a plant from the humid, bright outdoors to the drier, dimmer air inside your home, it may experience some "stress." It is common for a few leaves to turn yellow and fall off. Don't worry—as the plant acclimates to your home, new growth will appear.
Light and Water Indoors
Indoors, begonias prefer bright, indirect light. A window facing east or west is usually perfect. Avoid placing them directly in front of a drafty door or a heating vent, as the sudden changes in temperature can be hard on the foliage. For more detailed placement advice, Begonia Indoor Light covers window and indoor-light options.
Watering is the most important part of indoor begonia care. Because the air inside a heated home is dry, the soil might seem to dry out quickly on top. However, begonias are prone to root rot if they sit in soggy soil. Wait until the top inch of soil feels dry before watering again.
Boosting Humidity
Rex begonias, in particular, love humidity. If your home is very dry, you can place the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and a little water. As the water evaporates, it creates a mini-climate of moisture around the leaves. Just make sure the bottom of the pot is sitting on the pebbles, not in the water itself.
The Hardy Begonia: A Year-Round Garden Resident
While most begonias are tender, there is one notable exception that can grow back in the garden without being lifted: Begonia grandis, also known as the Hardy Begonia. This plant is a hidden gem for shade gardeners in USDA zones 6 through 9.
Hardy begonias look very similar to their tropical cousins, with beautiful winged leaves that often have a red underside and delicate sprays of pink or white flowers in late summer. Unlike other varieties, these plants can withstand freezing temperatures.
In the late fall, the top of the plant will die back to the ground. To help it grow back successfully:
- Apply a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch (like shredded leaves or bark) over the crown of the plant once the ground freezes. This acts as a blanket to protect the roots from extreme temperature swings.
- Be patient in the spring. Hardy begonias are "late sleepers" and often don't emerge from the ground until late May or early June, once the soil is truly warm.
Waking Up Your Begonias in Spring
The most exciting part of the process is seeing those first green nubs appear on your stored tubers. At our trial garden, we find that giving begonias a "head start" indoors produces much earlier blooms than if you wait to plant them directly outside.
Timing the Start
About 6 to 8 weeks before the last expected frost in your area, take your tubers out of storage. Look for the "eyes" or small pinkish buds on the hollow (concave) side of the tuber. This is the top.
The First Planting
Place the tubers in a shallow tray filled with moist potting soil. Press them into the soil so the tops are level with the surface—do not bury them deeply. Place the tray in a warm spot (about 70°F) with bright, indirect light. If you are deciding when to move them outdoors, When Can I Plant My Begonias Outside? gives practical timing guidance.
Water sparingly at first. You want the soil to be moist like a wrung-out sponge, but not wet. Too much water before the roots have formed can cause the tuber to rot. Within a few weeks, you will see stems and leaves beginning to reach upward.
Moving Outdoors
Begonias are very sensitive to cold soil. Wait until the danger of frost has completely passed and the nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F before moving them to their summer home.
Before they go out permanently, "harden them off" by placing them in a sheltered, shady spot for a few hours each day, gradually increasing their time outside over the course of a week. This helps the leaves toughen up for the outdoor environment.
Key Takeaway: Success with begonias depends more on temperature than any special trick. Warm soil and frost-free nights are the keys to a healthy spring start.
Factors That Influence Success
While begonias are generally easy-going, their ability to grow back depends on a few environmental factors. Understanding these can help you manage your expectations and adjust your care.
Drainage is Essential
The number one reason begonias fail to grow back is rot. Whether the tubers are in storage or the plants are in pots, they must have excellent drainage. In the garden, this means using loose, organic-rich soil. In pots, it means using a high-quality potting mix and ensuring there are plenty of drainage holes. If water can't leave the soil, the roots or tubers will eventually suffocate.
Soil Temperature
Begonias are tropical at heart. If you plant them out too early in the spring while the soil is still chilly (below 60°F), they may sit dormant and refuse to grow, or they may even rot. We always recommend waiting for the soil to feel warm to the touch. In the gardening world, timing usually beats tricks every time.
Space to Breathe
Good air circulation is a quiet winner for begonia health. Because they like moist, shady spots, they can sometimes be prone to powdery mildew (a white, dusty-looking fungus on the leaves). Giving your plants enough space so that air can move freely between them helps keep the foliage dry and healthy.
Consistency
Begonias appreciate a steady environment. Drastic swings between bone-dry soil and soaking wet soil can cause the plant to drop its flowers. Similarly, moving a plant suddenly from a dark corner to bright afternoon sun can burn the leaves. Small, consistent steps in care lead to the most beautiful results.
Summary of Begonia Care Cycles
| Begonia Type | Winter Strategy | Growth Habit |
|---|---|---|
| Tuberous | Lift tubers and store in a cool, dry place. | Goes dormant; dies back to the ground. |
| Wax / Bedding | Bring indoors as a houseplant or take cuttings. | Stays active; no natural dormancy. |
| Rex / Foliage | Keep indoors in a bright, humid spot. | Stays active; focus on leaf health. |
| Hardy (B. grandis) | Leave in ground with a layer of mulch. | Perennial; regrows from roots in late spring. |
Conclusion
Saving your begonias and watching them grow back each year is one of the simple joys of gardening. It turns a seasonal purchase into a long-term investment and allows you to grow massive, impressive specimens that get better with age. Whether you are tucking tubers away in a box of peat moss or finding a sunny windowsill for your favorite Rex variety, the process is straightforward and deeply satisfying.
At Longfield Gardens, we believe that gardening should be a rewarding and accessible activity for everyone. By understanding the natural rhythm of your plants and providing them with the protection they need during the winter, you ensure your garden will be filled with vibrant color and lush foliage for many summers to come. For shipping details and seasonal timing, see our Shipping Information page.
- Identify if your begonia has a tuber or fibrous roots.
- Protect all begonias from frost and temperatures below 50°F.
- Store tuberous varieties in a cool, dark, and dry environment.
- Start your plants indoors in early spring for the longest blooming season.
"The secret to begonias is simply matching their tropical needs to your local environment. Give them warmth, shade, and a dry place to rest in the winter, and they will reward you with beauty year after year."
If you’re ready to start your begonia journey, the best next step is to choose a variety that fits your light conditions and get your pots ready for a beautiful season of growth. If you’d like to learn more about the plants behind our selection, About Us & Our Guarantee explains our quality promise.
FAQ
How do I know if my begonia tuber is still alive?
A healthy begonia tuber should feel firm and heavy for its size, similar to a fresh potato. If you gently press on it, there should be no "give" or soft spots. If a tuber feels hollow, light, or mushy, it has likely dried out or rotted and will not grow back.
Can I leave my begonias in their pots over the winter?
If you have tuberous begonias in pots, you can leave them in the soil for the winter if the pot is stored in a frost-free, dry location like a basement. Stop watering entirely once the foliage dies back. In the spring, it is usually best to repot the tuber in fresh soil to provide new nutrients for the growing season. For related container timing, Begonia Hanging Golden Balcony is a good example of a hanging type you can grow in a basket.
Why didn't my begonia grow back in the spring?
The most common reasons begonias fail to return are rot during winter storage or being planted too early in cold, wet soil. If the tuber was stored in a place that was too damp or if it froze, it will not sprout. Always wait for warm weather and use well-draining soil to give them the best chance.
Do I need to fertilize begonias while they are indoors for the winter?
If you are keeping wax or Rex begonias as houseplants, you should reduce or stop fertilizing during the winter months. Because there is less light, the plants grow more slowly and don't need the extra nutrients. Resume a regular fertilizing schedule in the spring once you see active new growth. If you want more ideas for indoor placement, Begonia Hanging Begonias is a useful starting point for trailing varieties.
