Introduction
There is something truly magical about a begonia in full bloom. Whether it is the pendulous, rose-like flowers of a hanging basket or the neon-bright colors of a garden bed, these plants are the undisputed stars of the shade. As the first whispers of autumn arrive and the nights grow crisp, it is natural to want to save that beauty from the coming frost. You might find yourself wondering if these tropical treasures can make the transition from the patio to the living room.
The wonderful news is that you can absolutely keep your begonias through the winter. At Longfield Gardens, we want to help you extend the life of your favorite plants so you can enjoy them year after year. While most begonias are not frost-hardy, they are remarkably resilient when brought inside. The key to success lies in understanding which type of begonia you have and whether it needs a winter nap or a sunny windowsill.
This guide is designed for home gardeners who want to clear up the confusion surrounding begonia care during the cold months. We will cover the different ways to overwinter your plants, from storing dormant tubers to caring for active houseplants. By following a few simple steps, you can ensure your begonias return even stronger and more beautiful next spring.
Identifying Your Begonia Type
Before you bring a single pot inside, you need to know what kind of begonia you are growing. Begonias are a massive family of plants, and they don't all behave the same way when the temperature drops. Treating a tuberous begonia like a wax begonia is one of the most common mistakes beginners make, but it is easy to avoid once you know what to look for.
Tuberous Begonias
These are the showstoppers many gardeners choose for containers and hanging baskets. Popular varieties like the 'Non-Stop' series or the trailing 'Illumination' types fall into this category. They grow from a thick, brown, potato-like underground structure called a tuber. Tuberous begonias are programmed to go dormant in the winter. They will naturally begin to yellow and die back as the days shorten, which is their way of telling you they are ready for a rest.
Fibrous-Rooted and Wax Begonias
Wax begonias are the classic bedding plants often seen in public parks and garden borders. They have succulent stems and shiny, heart-shaped leaves that can be green or bronze. These begonias have a mass of thin, "fibrous" roots rather than a tuber. They do not go dormant and can live indoors as active houseplants all winter if they receive enough light.
Rhizomatous and Rex Begonias
These begonias are primarily grown for their incredible foliage. Rex begonias, in particular, feature swirling patterns of silver, purple, pink, and burgundy. They grow from a thick, horizontal stem called a rhizome that sits just at or below the soil surface. Like wax begonias, these are "evergreen" in the right conditions and will continue to grow indoors throughout the winter without a dormancy period.
Cane-Type Begonias
Commonly known as "Angel Wing" begonias, these plants have upright, bamboo-like stems and long, speckled leaves. They can grow quite tall and produce clusters of delicate flowers. These are also non-dormant and make excellent, long-lived houseplants.
Key Takeaway: If your begonia has a potato-like tuber at its base, it needs a dormant rest in a cool, dark place. If it has thin roots or a creeping rhizome, it can live on your windowsill as a houseplant.
How to Overwinter Tuberous Begonias
Tuberous begonias, such as the 'AmeriHybrid' or 'Sun Dancer' varieties we offer at Longfield Gardens, provide some of the most spectacular blooms in the garden. Because these plants are native to high-altitude regions in the Andes, they have evolved to survive a dry "dormant" season. Trying to keep them growing and flowering indoors all winter usually results in a weak, leggy plant that struggles to perform the following year. Giving them a proper rest is the best way to ensure a great show next summer.
The Curing Process
The transition to dormancy should be gradual. As autumn temperatures begin to dip into the 40s and 50s at night, you will notice the leaves start to turn yellow. This is a sign the plant is moving its energy from the leaves down into the tuber for storage.
Once the first light frost hits—or just before it if you prefer to be proactive—cut the stems back to about two or three inches above the soil line. If the plant is in a pot, move the pot to a dry, frost-free area like a garage or basement. If the plant is in the ground, carefully dig up the tuber, being careful not to nick the "skin."
Leave the tubers in a warm, dry, and airy spot for about one to two weeks. This is called "curing." During this time, the remaining stem pieces will dry up and eventually fall off on their own. Do not tug on them; let nature take its course to avoid creating an open wound on the tuber.
Storing Your Tubers
After curing, gently brush off any excess soil. You don't need to wash them; in fact, keeping them dry is the goal. There are a few easy ways to store them for the next few months:
- Paper Bags: Place individual tubers in small paper bags. This allows for air circulation while keeping them dark.
- Cardboard Boxes: Line a box with slightly damp peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust. Nestle the tubers in the material so they aren't touching each other.
- In the Pot: If the begonias were in containers, you can simply leave the tubers in the dry soil. Move the entire pot to a cool, dark location and do not water it until spring.
Temperature and Environment
The ideal storage temperature for dormant begonia tubers is between 45°F and 55°F. A cool basement, a crawl space, or an insulated garage usually works perfectly. Avoid areas that drop below freezing, as the water inside the tuber will freeze and destroy the plant. Also, stay away from "hot" spots like a furnace room, which can cause the tubers to shrivel up and dry out completely.
What to do next:
- Stop fertilizing in late August to encourage the plant to slow down.
- Reduce watering in September so the soil is barely moist.
- Cut back foliage after the first light frost.
- Cure the tubers in a dry area for 10–14 days.
- Store in a cool, dark place (45–55°F) for the winter.
Keeping Begonias as Houseplants
If you have wax begonias, Rex begonias, or Angel Wing types, you don't have to worry about dormancy. These plants are happy to move inside and decorate your home. However, the transition from the humid, bright outdoors to the dry, dimly lit indoors can be a shock.
The Great Transition
The most successful way to bring begonias indoors is to do it before you turn on your home's heating system. Forced-air heat creates a very dry environment that begonias find stressful. By bringing them in while the windows are still open and the air is naturally humid, the plants can acclimate slowly.
Before bringing any plant inside, give it a thorough inspection. Check the undersides of leaves and the joints of the stems for "hitchhikers" like aphids, spider mites, or fungus gnats. A gentle spray with a hose can knock off most pests. For a more thorough cleaning, you can wipe the leaves with a damp cloth or use a mild insecticidal soap according to the label instructions.
Light Requirements Indoors
Outdoors, most begonias love filtered light or morning sun. Indoors, the sun is much less intense. To keep your begonias healthy, place them in a spot that receives bright, indirect light. An east-facing or west-facing window is usually ideal.
If your plant starts to look "stretched out" or leggy, with long gaps between the leaves, it is likely reaching for more light. If you don't have a bright enough window, a simple LED grow light can make a world of difference. Keep the light on for about 12 to 14 hours a day to mimic a summer schedule.
Solving the Humidity Problem
The biggest challenge for indoor begonias is dry air. When the humidity drops below 40%, the edges of begonia leaves—especially Rex varieties—will start to turn brown and crispy. While many people reach for a misting bottle, misting only provides a few minutes of relief and can actually encourage fungal issues on the leaves.
A more effective method is the "pebble tray." Fill a shallow tray with decorative stones and add water until it is just below the top of the pebbles. Set your begonia pot on top of the stones. As the water evaporates, it creates a small microclimate of humidity right around the foliage. Just make sure the bottom of the pot isn't sitting in the water, as this can lead to root rot.
Key Takeaway: Indoor begonias crave humidity but hate soggy soil. Use a pebble tray and a bright window to keep them happy until spring.
Watering and Feeding During Winter
Watering is where many well-intentioned gardeners go wrong during the winter months. Because the days are shorter and the plants are growing more slowly, they need significantly less water than they did during the hot days of July.
The Finger Test
Instead of watering on a set schedule, use the "finger test." Stick your finger into the soil up to the first knuckle. If the soil feels dry, it is time to water. If it still feels cool and damp, wait a few more days. For Rex and rhizomatous begonias, it is often best to let the top inch of soil dry out completely before adding more water.
When you do water, try to avoid getting the foliage wet. Water at the base of the plant or use a bottom-watering method by sitting the pot in a bowl of water for 20 minutes. This helps prevent powdery mildew, a common winter fungal disease that looks like white flour dusted on the leaves.
Pause the Fertilizer
In the garden, we often feed begonias every two weeks to keep the blooms coming. In the winter, you should stop fertilizing entirely. The plant is in a "slow-growth" phase, and forcing new growth with high-nitrogen fertilizer can result in weak, spindly stems that are more susceptible to pests. Wait until you see the first signs of vigorous new growth in early spring before you resume your feeding routine.
Common Winter Challenges
Even with the best care, you might run into a few hiccups while your begonias are indoors. Don't worry—most of these issues are easy to fix if you catch them early.
Leaf Drop
It is very common for a begonia to drop several leaves shortly after moving inside. This is usually just a reaction to the change in light and humidity. As long as the stems look firm and there is still some green growth, the plant will likely recover. Clean up the fallen leaves promptly to prevent mold from growing on the soil surface.
Powdery Mildew
This looks like white, circular spots on the leaves. It usually happens when the air is stagnant and the humidity is high, or when leaves stay wet. To fix this, improve the air circulation around your plants by giving them more space. You can also use a small fan to keep the air moving gently. If the problem persists, a copper-based fungicide or a simple mixture of baking soda and water can help manage the spread.
Leggy Growth
If your Angel Wing or wax begonias are getting too tall and thin, don't be afraid to give them a "haircut." Pruning the tops back encourages the plant to branch out and become bushier. You can even take those cuttings, strip off the bottom leaves, and stick them in a glass of water to grow new roots. It's an easy way to get "free" plants for the spring.
Safety for Pets and Children
While begonias are beautiful, it is important to remember that they are not edible. Begonias contain calcium oxalate crystals, which can be irritating if chewed or swallowed. This applies to both the leaves and the tubers.
If you have curious cats, dogs, or small children, it is best to keep your indoor begonias on a high shelf or in a room where pets don't have unsupervised access. If you suspect a pet has nibbled on a begonia, look for signs of drooling or oral irritation and consult your veterinarian. When storing dormant tubers, keep them in a labeled box or bag in a secure area so they aren't mistaken for food or toys.
Preparing for Spring
As the days grow longer in late February or March, you will notice your indoor begonias starting to wake up. This is the most exciting time for a gardener!
Waking Up Tubers
If you stored tubers in a box or bag, check them for "eyes"—small, pinkish bumps that look like the sprouts on a potato. When you see these, it's time to pot them up. Use a fresh, well-draining potting mix.
A simple gardening rule for tuberous begonias is to plant them with the hollowed-out side facing up. Don't bury them too deep; the top of the tuber should be just barely covered or even slightly exposed. Place the pots in a warm, sunny window and water them lightly. Once you see green shoots, you can begin watering more regularly and start using a diluted liquid fertilizer.
Refreshing Houseplants
For your Rex and Angel Wing begonias, spring is the perfect time for a refresh. If the plant has become root-bound (roots circling the inside of the pot), move it to a pot that is one size larger. Fresh potting soil provides a boost of nutrients and better drainage, which will help the plant kick off a new season of growth.
Hardening Off
Don't rush your begonias back outside at the first sign of sun. They need to be "hardened off," which means gradually getting them used to the wind and intense sunlight of the outdoors. Start by putting them in a shaded, protected spot for an hour or two a day, gradually increasing their time outside over the course of a week. Only leave them out overnight once the danger of frost has completely passed and night temperatures are consistently above 50°F.
Conclusion
Bringing begonias indoors for the winter is a rewarding way to preserve your garden favorites and save money on next year's planting. Whether you are tucking tuberous begonias into a cool basement for a well-deserved rest or enjoying the vibrant patterns of a Rex begonia on your dining room table, these plants are more than happy to wait out the cold with you.
Gardening is a journey of observation and care, and learning how your plants respond to the changing seasons is part of the fun. With a bit of attention to light, humidity, and the "finger test" for watering, your begonias will thrive throughout the winter months. We at Longfield Gardens are proud to provide the high-quality plants that make these seasonal transitions so worthwhile.
- Identify your begonia type to determine if it needs dormancy.
- Store tuberous begonias in a cool, dry, dark place (45–55°F).
- Keep foliage begonias in bright, indirect light with a humidity tray.
- Reduce watering and stop fertilizing during the winter.
"The secret to a beautiful spring garden often starts in the quiet months of winter. Giving your begonias the right care now ensures a spectacular display of color when the warmth returns."
We invite you to explore our selection of begonias and other summer-blooming bulbs to find the perfect additions to your home and garden. Happy gardening!
FAQ
Can I leave my begonias in the ground over winter?
In most parts of the United States, begonias will not survive the winter in the ground. They are tropical plants that are very sensitive to frost. Unless you live in a frost-free climate (typically USDA Zone 10 or higher), you must dig up tuberous begonias or bring potted foliage begonias indoors to keep them alive until spring.
Why are the leaves on my indoor begonia turning brown and crispy?
The most common cause of brown, crispy leaf edges is low humidity. Indoor air during the winter is often very dry due to heating systems. To fix this, place your plant on a pebble tray with water, group plants together to create a humid microclimate, or use a room humidifier. Avoid placing your begonia near drafty windows or heat vents.
How often should I water my begonia during the winter?
Watering needs decrease significantly in the winter. Instead of following a calendar, check the soil with your finger. For most begonias, water only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. It is better to keep the soil slightly on the dry side than to overwater, which can cause the roots or tubers to rot in the cooler, lower-light conditions.
My tuberous begonia didn't sprout new leaves; is it dead?
Check the tuber by gently pressing on it. If it feels firm and heavy, it is likely still healthy and just needs more time, warmth, or light to wake up. If the tuber feels light, shriveled, or soft and mushy, it has likely dried out too much or rotted. Healthy tubers often take several weeks to show signs of life once they are moved into the light in spring.
