Wintering Begonias Indoors: A Simple Guide to Success

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Identifying Your Begonia Type
3. Bringing Begonias Indoors as Houseplants
4. Overwintering Tuberous Begonias Through Dormancy
5. Caring for Your Begonias Throughout the Winter
6. Moving Your Begonias Back Outside in Spring
7. Conclusion
8. FAQ

Introduction

Begonias are among the most versatile and generous plants in the summer garden. Whether you are growing the massive, rose-like blooms of tuberous begonias or the striking, metallic foliage of Rex varieties, these plants bring a tropical flair that is hard to match. One of the greatest joys of growing them is realizing that you do not have to say goodbye when the first frost arrives.

At Longfield Gardens, we want to help you keep your favorite plants healthy and vibrant for years to come. Wintering begonias indoors is a rewarding way to preserve your investment and enjoy a head start on next year’s garden. If you are ready to shop the basics, start with our Begonia flower bulbs. While these plants are sensitive to the cold, they are surprisingly resilient when brought inside for a few months of rest or indoor growth.

This guide will walk you through the simple steps of identifying which type of begonia you have and the best methods for keeping them safe through the winter. Whether you want to keep them growing as houseplants or store them as dormant tubers, we have the practical tips you need. For a broader overview, see our All About Begonias guide. With a little bit of preparation, you can ensure your begonias return even stronger next season.

Identifying Your Begonia Type

Before you bring your plants inside, you need to know which "path" they should take. Begonias are a large family, and different types have different needs during the winter. Some want to keep growing all year long, while others require a period of dormancy, which is a scheduled rest time where the plant stops growing to save energy.

Tuberous Begonias

These are the showstoppers often found in hanging baskets or shady garden beds. They grow from a thick, potato-like underground structure called a tuber. Tuberous begonias, including popular series like Non-Stop Begonias, are programmed to go dormant in the winter. They will drop their leaves and stems, and you will store only the tuber itself.

Fibrous and Wax Begonias

Wax begonias are the classic bedding plants with succulent stems and shiny, rounded leaves. They have a fine, thread-like root system rather than a tuber. These begonias do not go dormant. If you provide them with enough light and warmth, they can be kept as active houseplants throughout the winter.

Cane and Rex Begonias

Cane begonias, such as the famous Angel Wing or Dragon Wing types, have upright, woody stems. Rex begonias are grown primarily for their incredible leaf patterns and colors. Like wax begonias, these types do not need a dormancy period. They are excellent candidates for spending the winter on a sunny windowsill.

Key Takeaway: Identify your begonia type first. Tuberous begonias need to "sleep" (dormancy), while Wax, Cane, and Rex begonias want to stay "awake" as houseplants.

Bringing Begonias Indoors as Houseplants

If you have wax, cane, or Rex begonias, you can enjoy their beauty all winter by treating them as houseplants. The goal is to make the transition from the humid, bright outdoors to the drier, dimmer indoors as smooth as possible. If you want more planting background, the Tips for Growing Tuberous Begonias article is a useful companion.

Preparing Your Plants for the Move

The best time to bring your begonias inside is before the nighttime temperatures consistently drop below 50°F. Tropical plants can feel the stress of cold air even before a frost hits.

Start by inspecting your plants for any unwanted guests. Check the undersides of leaves and the stems for small insects. A gentle spray of water from a garden hose can help wash away dust and most outdoor bugs. If the plant is currently in the ground, you will need to pot it up. Use a high-quality, lightweight potting mix. "Potting mix" or "soil-free mix" is a blend of peat moss or coco coir and perlite that ensures good drainage, which means water leaves the soil quickly so the roots don't sit in mud.

Light and Temperature Requirements

Indoors, begonias appreciate bright, filtered light. An east-facing or west-facing window is usually ideal. While they love light, direct, hot afternoon sun through a window can sometimes scorch their leaves. If you see the leaves turning brown or looking "bleached," move the plant a few feet back from the glass.

Keep your begonias in a room that stays between 60°F and 75°F. Avoid placing them near drafty doors or directly in front of heating vents. The hot, dry air from a furnace can be tough on their foliage.

Humidity and Watering Indoors

The air inside most homes during winter is much drier than the air outdoors. Begonias, especially Rex varieties, love humidity. You can easily increase the moisture in the air around your plants by using a pebble tray. Simply fill a shallow tray with small stones and add water until it is just below the top of the stones. Place your pot on the stones, ensuring the bottom of the pot does not touch the water. As the water evaporates, it creates a humid "mini-climate" for the plant.

When it comes to watering, the most important rule is to let the soil dry out slightly between waterings. Stick your finger an inch into the soil; if it feels dry, it is time to water. If it feels damp, wait a few more days. Overwatering is the most common cause of trouble for indoor begonias, as it can lead to root rot.

What to do next:

• Inspect plants for pests and wash leaves with a gentle spray.
• Pot up garden plants using a lightweight potting mix.
• Find a spot with bright, indirect light and consistent temperatures.
• Set up a pebble tray to help with indoor humidity.

Overwintering Tuberous Begonias Through Dormancy

Tuberous begonias need a different approach. Because they have a storage organ (the tuber), they prefer to shut down and rest for a few months. This process is very similar to how you might store dahlia tubers or gladiolus corms.

When to Start the Process

In the late summer or early fall, you may notice your tuberous begonias beginning to look a bit tired. The leaves may start to yellow, and the plant might stop producing as many flowers. This is your cue to reduce watering.

You can leave tuberous begonias outdoors until the first light frost. A light frost will blacken the foliage but won't harm the tuber buried in the soil. This "cold snap" actually tells the plant that it is time to store all its energy in the tuber for the winter. Once the tops have wilted, it is time to bring them in.

Digging and Curing the Tubers

If your begonias are in pots, simply bring the whole container into a dry area like a garage or shed. If they are in the ground, carefully dig them up with a garden fork, being sure to stay several inches away from the stem to avoid bruising the tuber.

Cut the stems back to about one or two inches above the tuber. Don't worry if the stems feel a bit watery or mushy; this is normal after a frost. Let the tubers sit in a warm, dry, and shaded spot for about a week. This is called "curing." Curing allows the outer skin to toughen up and any remaining moisture in the stem stub to dry out, which helps prevent rot during storage.

The Best Way to Store Begonia Tubers

Once the tubers are dry to the touch and any remaining soil can be easily brushed off, they are ready for their winter nap.

• Choose a storage medium: Place the tubers in a box or breathable bag filled with dry peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust. This keeps the tubers from touching each other and helps maintain a very low level of moisture so they don't shrivel up completely.
• Find the right temperature: Store the box in a cool, dark, and dry place. The ideal temperature is between 40°F and 50°F. An unheated basement, a crawl space, or a cool closet usually works well.
• Check periodically: Every month or so, take a quick peek at your tubers. If you see any soft spots, remove that tuber so it doesn't affect the others. If they look very shriveled, you can give the storage medium a tiny mist of water, but keep it very minimal.

Key Takeaway: Tuberous begonias are cured by drying for a week and then stored in a cool, dark place in dry peat moss or vermiculite.

Caring for Your Begonias Throughout the Winter

Whether your begonias are growing as houseplants or resting as tubers, they require very little attention during the darkest months of the year. For the houseplants, this is a time of slow growth. If you want more background on buying and growing options, our Begonia flower bulbs page is a good place to browse.

Hold the Fertilizer

You do not need to fertilize your begonias during the winter. Because there is less natural sunlight, the plants are not working as hard to grow new leaves. Adding fertilizer can actually stress the plant by forcing growth when it wants to rest. Wait until you see vigorous new growth in the spring before you begin a regular feeding schedule.

Watch the Water

As mentioned earlier, the "dry and soak" method is best. During the winter, plants use water much more slowly. You might find that you only need to water your indoor begonias once every 10 to 14 days. Always check the soil first rather than watering on a strict schedule. If your house stays very cool, they will need even less water.

Managing Leaf Drop

Don't be alarmed if your Rex or Cane begonias drop a few leaves shortly after you bring them inside. This is a normal reaction to the change in light and humidity. As long as the stems remain firm and you see small green buds or new growth at the tips, the plant is doing just fine. It is simply adjusting its "equipment" to match its new indoor environment.

Moving Your Begonias Back Outside in Spring

The transition back to the garden is an exciting time, but it must be done carefully to avoid shocking the plants. If you want to compare care notes before spring planting, revisit our All About Begonias guide.

Waking Up Dormant Tubers

In late February or early March, you can start "waking up" your stored tubers. Take them out of their storage box and place them on a tray of damp potting mix in a warm, bright room. Position the tubers so the hollow (concave) side is facing up.

Once you see small pink or green sprouts beginning to grow, you can pot them up into individual containers. Keep them on a sunny windowsill and water sparingly until the leaves are well-developed.

The Hardening Off Process

For both your houseplants and your newly sprouted tubers, you must "harden them off" before they live outside full-time. This means gradually introducing them to the outdoor elements.

When the daytime temperatures are consistently above 60°F, set your plants outside in a shaded, protected spot for an hour or two. Each day, increase the amount of time they spend outside and the amount of light they receive.

Final Planting Timing

Patience is a virtue when it comes to begonias. These are truly tropical plants that love warmth. Do not plant them in the ground or leave them out overnight until you are certain the danger of frost has passed and the nighttime temperatures stay reliably above 50°F. If the soil is still cold and clammy, the plants will sit still and may even struggle. Waiting for warm soil and warm nights will result in much faster growth and better blooms.

What to do next:

• Start tubers indoors 8-12 weeks before the last frost for early blooms.
• Gradually introduce indoor plants to the outdoors over 7-10 days.
• Wait for warm nights (above 50°F) before permanent outdoor placement.

Conclusion

Successfully wintering begonias indoors is a simple skill that pays off with bigger, more beautiful plants every year. By matching your care to the specific type of begonia you own, you can enjoy their stunning foliage as houseplants or preserve their tubers for a spectacular spring comeback. We at Longfield Gardens believe that gardening should be a rewarding and accessible hobby for everyone, and saving your favorite plants is a great way to build confidence in your green thumb. For more company information and our promise to gardeners, see our About Us and Quality Guarantee.

Remember that every home and every growing season is a little different. Don't be afraid to observe your plants and make small adjustments to their light or water as needed. With these straightforward steps, you are well on your way to enjoying your begonias for many seasons to come.

Wintering begonias is a simple way to extend the life of your garden. Whether they are resting in a cool basement or brightening a sunny windowsill, these plants are hardy enough to return with vigor when the warm weather returns.

To start your begonia collection or find more helpful tips, we invite you to explore our selection and resources at Longfield Gardens. Happy gardening!

FAQ

How do I know if my begonia is tuberous or fibrous?

The easiest way is to look at the base of the plant. A tuberous begonia grows from a thick, brown, potato-like lump just at or below the soil surface. Fibrous begonias, like the common wax begonia, have a cluster of thin, thread-like roots. Tuberous begonias usually have much larger, more dramatic flowers, while fibrous begonias have smaller, more constant blooms and shiny, succulent leaves. For more growing ideas, our Non-Stop Begonias collection is a helpful place to compare types.

Can I leave my tuberous begonias in their pots over the winter?

Yes, you can store tuberous begonias right in their pots if the soil is completely dry. Once the foliage has died back after a light frost, cut the stems and move the entire pot to a cool, dry, frost-free location like a basement. In the spring, you can gently remove the tuber to check its health and replant it in fresh potting soil to give it a fresh start. If you are shopping for more tubers, the Begonia Nonstop Mix is a classic choice.

Why are the leaves falling off my begonia after I brought it inside?

This is a very common reaction to the change in environment. The air inside a home is typically much drier and the light is less intense than it is outdoors. The plant may drop its "outdoor" leaves as it prepares to grow new leaves that are better adapted to indoor conditions. To help the plant, increase humidity with a pebble tray and ensure it is in a bright spot away from heater vents.

Do I need to water my begonia tubers while they are in storage?

Generally, no. The goal of storing tubers in a medium like peat moss or vermiculite is to keep them dry so they do not rot. However, you should check them once a month. If the tubers look extremely shriveled or feel very light, you can lightly mist the storage medium with a tiny bit of water. The goal is to keep them from drying out completely without making them wet enough to grow mold.