Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Understanding the Canna Rhizome
- When to Begin the Saving Process
- Preparing the Plants for Lifting
- How to Lift Canna Rhizomes Without Damage
- Cleaning and Inspecting Your Harvest
- The Importance of Curing
- Creating the Ideal Winter Storage Environment
- Saving Cannas Grown in Containers
- Dividing for a Bigger Garden
- Checking in on Your Rhizomes
- Replanting in the Spring
- Where Can You Leave Them in the Ground?
- A Note on Quality and Performance
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Introduction
There is nothing quite like the sight of a canna lily in full midsummer glory. With their towering heights, tropical foliage, and vibrant blooms in shades of red, orange, and yellow, Tall Cannas transform any backyard into a lush getaway. When the season begins to cool, many gardeners wonder if they can keep that tropical magic alive for the following year.
The wonderful news is that you absolutely can save canna lily bulbs—which are technically called rhizomes—to enjoy again and again. At Longfield Gardens, we love helping home gardeners realize that these impressive cannas are much easier to manage than they might appear. Whether you live in a chilly northern climate or a mild southern one, saving your cannas is a rewarding way to build a bigger, more beautiful garden every year.
In this guide, we will walk you through the simple process of lifting, storing, and dividing your canna rhizomes. By following a few straightforward steps, you can ensure your favorite varieties return even stronger next summer.
Understanding the Canna Rhizome
Before we jump into the steps of saving your plants, it is helpful to understand what you are working with. While most gardeners call them "bulbs," cannas actually grow from rhizomes. A rhizome is a thick, fleshy underground stem that stores energy for the plant.
When you look at a canna rhizome, you will see small bumps or points called "eyes." These eyes are where the new stems will emerge in the spring. Because these structures are designed to store nutrients and water, they are incredibly resilient. This natural storage system is exactly what allows us to save them through the winter months.
Saving your rhizomes is more than just a way to save money. As a canna lily grows through the summer, its rhizome expands and produces new sections. By lifting and saving them, you are essentially collecting a larger "battery" of energy for next year’s growth. This often results in taller plants and more abundant flowers in subsequent seasons.
When to Begin the Saving Process
Timing is the most important factor when it comes to successfully saving canna lilies. In most parts of the United States, cannas are treated as tender perennials. This means they love the heat of summer but cannot survive a deep freeze in the soil.
The best time to act is right after the first "blackening frost." You will know it has happened when the lush green or bronze leaves of your cannas suddenly turn dark brown or black after a cold night. While this might look a bit sad at first, it is actually a helpful signal from nature.
The frost tells the plant that the growing season is over. Once the foliage dies back, the energy from the leaves travels down into the rhizome. We recommend waiting a few days after this first frost before you start digging. This short waiting period allows the rhizomes to finish absorbing those final nutrients, which helps them stay healthy during their winter nap.
Key Takeaway: Wait for the first light frost to turn the foliage brown before you begin the lifting process. This ensures the rhizome has stored maximum energy for the winter.
Preparing the Plants for Lifting
Once the foliage has been nipped by frost, it is time to prepare the plants for their move into storage. Start by cutting the stalks back. You can use a pair of sharp garden shears or a small saw if the stalks are particularly thick.
Aim to cut the stems about three to four inches above the soil line. Leaving this small "handle" makes the rhizomes much easier to grab and move around. It also helps you keep track of which side is "up" when it comes time to replant in the spring.
After cutting back the foliage, clear away any mulch or debris from around the base of the plant. This gives you a clear view of the soil so you can see where the rhizomes are located. Cannas tend to spread horizontally, so the rhizomes might be several inches away from the main stalk.
What to do next:
- Identify the plants you want to save.
- Cut the stalks down to 3–4 inches above the ground.
- Clear away any surface mulch or fallen leaves.
- Gather your tools: a garden fork or spade and a pair of gloves.
How to Lift Canna Rhizomes Without Damage
Lifting the rhizomes is a gentle process. While they are sturdy, you want to avoid slicing through them with your shovel, as open wounds can lead to rot during storage.
Instead of a traditional shovel, we recommend using a garden fork. A fork allows you to loosen the soil around the plant without the high risk of cutting the fleshy rhizomes. Start digging about 6 to 10 inches away from the base of the stems. Dig straight down and gently pry upward to loosen the soil.
Work your way around the entire clump in a circle. Once the soil is loose, you should be able to lift the entire mass of rhizomes out of the ground by grasping the stem handles you left behind. Do not worry if the clump is large and heavy; cannas are vigorous growers and often double or triple in size over a single summer.
Cleaning and Inspecting Your Harvest
Once the rhizomes are out of the ground, shake off as much loose soil as possible. You can use your hands to gently brush away dirt from the nooks and crannies between the rhizomes.
Some gardeners like to wash their rhizomes with a garden hose to get them perfectly clean. This is fine to do, but it is not strictly necessary unless you have very heavy clay soil that sticks to the roots. If you do use water, it is vital that the rhizomes are allowed to dry completely before going into storage.
As you clean, take a moment to inspect your harvest. You are looking for firm, healthy rhizomes. If you find any sections that feel soft, mushy, or show signs of significant insect damage, simply snap them off and discard them. Healthy rhizomes should feel heavy and solid, much like a fresh ginger root from the grocery store.
Key Takeaway: Only store firm, healthy rhizomes. Removing damaged or soft sections now prevents rot from spreading to the rest of your collection during the winter.
The Importance of Curing
Curing is a simple but essential step that many beginners overlook. Curing is the process of letting the outer "skin" of the rhizome dry and toughen up before it goes into long-term storage. This creates a protective barrier that helps prevent moisture loss and discourages mold.
To cure your cannas, place the cleaned rhizomes in a dry, frost-free location for about two to three days. A garage, a covered porch, or a basement floor works perfectly. Avoid placing them in direct sunlight, as this can dry them out too quickly.
During this time, any remaining soil will dry up and fall off, and the cut ends of the stems will begin to callus over. Once the exterior feels dry to the touch and the rhizomes no longer feel "tacky," they are ready for their winter home.
Creating the Ideal Winter Storage Environment
The goal of winter storage is to keep the rhizomes dormant—neither growing nor rotting. To achieve this, you need to balance three things: temperature, moisture, and airflow.
Temperature
Cannas should be stored in a cool, dark place. The ideal temperature range is between 40°F and 50°F. If the area is too warm (above 60°F), the rhizomes might try to start growing too early. If it is too cold (below 35°F), they risk freezing, which will turn them into mush. Unheated basements, crawl spaces, or insulated garages are usually the best spots.
Packing Material
While you can store rhizomes loose in a box, they tend to stay healthier if they are nestled in a packing medium. This medium helps regulate moisture levels so the rhizomes don't shrivel up. Popular choices include:
- Peat moss
- Vermiculite
- Perlite
- Wood shavings (like those used for pet bedding)
- Dry sand
Storage Containers
Plastic storage bins, cardboard boxes, or even paper bags can work. If you use a plastic bin, do not snap the lid on tight. Leave it slightly ajar or drill a few small holes in the sides to allow for airflow. If the air is completely stagnant, moisture can build up and cause mold.
Layer the packing material in the bottom of your container, place the rhizomes on top (not touching each other if possible), and then cover them with more material. If you have different varieties, such as the striped Pretoria, this is the perfect time to label them.
With the dark-leaved Tropicanna, simply write the name on the box or tie a tag to the stem handle.
Saving Cannas Grown in Containers
If you enjoy growing canna bulbs in containers on your patio, the process is even simpler. You have two main options for saving them.
The first option is to treat them exactly like garden-grown cannas. After the frost hits, cut back the foliage, tip the pot over, and harvest the rhizomes from the soil. This is the best choice if the pot has become "root-bound," meaning the rhizomes have filled up all the available space.
The second option is to store the entire pot. If you have a cool, frost-free space like a basement, you can simply cut the stems back and move the entire container indoors. Stop watering the pot completely. The soil will dry out, and the rhizomes will go dormant inside the container. In the spring, you can bring the pot back out, give it fresh soil and water, and it will begin to grow again.
Dividing for a Bigger Garden
One of the best reasons to save canna lily bulbs is the opportunity to multiply your collection for free. Over the course of a summer, a single rhizome can grow into a large clump with many new "eyes."
Divide and store canna bulbs in spring, just before you are ready to plant them back outside. Using a clean, sharp knife, you can cut the large clumps into smaller sections.
The rule of thumb for dividing is simple: ensure every piece has at least one or two "eyes" (the small growing points). Each of these sections will grow into a full-sized, blooming plant by midsummer. At Longfield Gardens, we find that dividing every two to three years keeps the plants vigorous and prevents the clumps from becoming too crowded.
What to do next:
- Inspect your stored rhizomes in early spring.
- Use a clean knife to cut large clumps into smaller sections.
- Ensure each section has at least one visible eye.
- Let the cut edges dry for a day before planting to prevent rot.
Checking in on Your Rhizomes
Gardening is a journey of observation, and that includes the winter months. It is a good idea to check on your stored cannas once every month.
Open the boxes and feel a few of the rhizomes. If they feel very shriveled and light, they might be getting too dry. You can use a spray bottle to lightly mist the packing material with water. You don't want it wet—just slightly damp, like a wrung-out sponge.
On the other hand, if you see any signs of fuzzy mold or smell a sour odor, the environment is too moist. Remove any affected rhizomes immediately to save the rest of the batch. Leave the lid off the box for a few days to let the excess moisture evaporate.
Key Takeaway: A quick monthly check ensures that small issues with moisture don't become big problems. Consistency is the secret to healthy spring starts.
Replanting in the Spring
When the days begin to lengthen and the threat of frost has passed, it is time to bring your cannas back into the light. Cannas love warm soil, so wait until the ground has warmed to at least 60°F before planting them directly into the garden.
If you live in a region with a short growing season, you can give your cannas a "head start" by potting them up indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date. Place the pots in a sunny window or under grow lights. By the time the weather is warm enough to move them outside, you will already have several inches of green growth.
When planting, place the rhizomes horizontally in the soil, about 4 to 5 inches deep. Space them about 1 to 2 feet apart to give their large leaves plenty of room to expand. Give them a good drink of water to wake them up, and then wait for the magic to happen.
Where Can You Leave Them in the Ground?
Whether you must save your cannas by lifting them depends entirely on your USDA hardiness zone map.
If you live in Zone 8, 9, or 10, cannas are generally hardy enough to stay in the ground year-round. In these warmer climates, the ground does not freeze deep enough to damage the rhizomes. You can simply cut the foliage back in late autumn and apply a thick layer of mulch (about 4 to 6 inches) to provide a little extra insulation.
For gardeners in Zones 7 and colder, lifting is the safest way to ensure your plants survive. While some Zone 7 gardeners have success leaving cannas in the ground with very heavy mulching and a well-protected microclimate, it can be a bit of a gamble if a particularly harsh winter arrives.
A Note on Quality and Performance
At Longfield Gardens, we prioritize providing high-quality rhizomes that are true to variety and arrive in prime condition. We stand behind our plants with a 100% guarantee. If your rhizomes arrive damaged or there is a labeling issue, we ask that you contact us promptly.
It is important to remember that while the steps above are very effective, factors like unusual weather patterns, soil drainage, and local microclimates can all influence how well a plant performs. Gardening is an enjoyable experiment, and each year provides a new opportunity to learn what works best in your specific yard.
Conclusion
Saving your canna lily bulbs is one of the most satisfying "easy wins" in the garden. By following the simple rhythm of the seasons—lifting after the frost, storing in a cool spot, and dividing in the spring—you can turn a few beautiful plants into a spectacular tropical display that grows larger every year. This process allows you to enjoy your favorite colors and patterns season after season without starting from scratch.
- Wait for the first frost to signal the end of the season.
- Store rhizomes in a cool, dry place between 40°F and 50°F.
- Divide and store canna bulbs in the spring to multiply your collection for free.
- Start indoors early if you want flowers sooner in the summer.
"Saving your garden’s treasures through the winter is a wonderful way to connect with the cycle of growth. With just a little bit of care, your cannas will reward you with bigger and bolder displays year after year."
We invite you to explore our Spring-Planted Summer-Blooming Bulbs as you plan your next tropical oasis.
For more canna color and texture, browse the Canna Assorted Mix - Bulk Offer. Happy gardening!
FAQ
Do I have to wash the dirt off the canna rhizomes before storing them?
While you don't have to get them perfectly clean, it is a good idea to remove the majority of the soil. Soil can hold excess moisture, which might lead to rot during the winter. Simply brushing off the loose dirt after it has dried for a few hours is usually enough for a successful storage season.
What happens if I forget to lift my canna lilies before a hard freeze?
A light frost that only kills the leaves is fine, but a "hard freeze" where the ground itself freezes can damage the rhizomes. If you forget to lift them and the ground freezes, the rhizomes may turn mushy and will not grow in the spring. If you catch it quickly after the first freeze, dig them up immediately to see if any firm sections remain.
Can I store my canna rhizomes in the refrigerator?
It is generally not recommended to store canna rhizomes in a refrigerator used for food. Refrigerators are often too cold (usually around 35°F-38°F) and lack the necessary airflow. Additionally, some fruits release ethylene gas which can interfere with the dormancy of the rhizomes. A cool basement or garage is a much better environment.
Why did my stored canna rhizomes turn soft and mushy over the winter?
Mushy rhizomes are almost always a result of too much moisture or temperatures that dropped below freezing. If the packing material was too wet or if there wasn't enough airflow in the container, rot can set in. To prevent this next time, ensure the rhizomes are cured (dried) for a few days before storage and check them monthly to ensure they stay dry and firm.