Introduction
Canna lilies bring a bold, tropical energy to the garden that is hard to match. Their oversized leaves and vibrant, torch-like flowers make every summer day feel like a vacation in your own backyard. These plants are incredibly rewarding to grow, and the best part is that you do not have to buy new ones every spring.
By learning how to store your plants properly, you can enjoy the same beautiful varieties year after year. At Longfield Gardens, we want to help you preserve these garden favorites so they return even bigger and better next season. This guide will show you exactly how to lift, clean, and store your cannas throughout the winter months.
Whether you are a new gardener or have been growing for years, the process is straightforward and satisfying. Saving your canna lilies is an easy way to expand your garden while keeping your favorite colors alive. Follow these steps to ensure your rhizomes stay healthy and ready for a spectacular spring awakening.
Understanding the Canna Lifecycle
Canna lilies are tropical plants that thrive in heat and humidity. In their native environments, they grow year-round without a break. However, in most parts of the United States, winter temperatures drop low enough to freeze the ground. Because canna rhizomes are full of moisture, a hard freeze will turn them into mush.
In USDA hardiness zones 8 and warmer, cannas can often stay in the ground all year with a thick layer of mulch. For those of us in zones 7 and colder, lifting the rhizomes is the best way to guarantee their survival. If you want to double-check your local climate, our Hardiness Zone Map is a helpful place to start. Think of this dormant period as a well-deserved rest for the plant after a busy summer of blooming.
During the summer, the plant stores energy in its rhizomes, which are thick, horizontal underground stems. By the time fall arrives, these rhizomes are packed with the nutrients needed to start growing again in the spring. Our goal during the overwintering process is to keep that stored energy safe and dormant until the soil warms up again.
When to Start the Overwintering Process
The best time to dig up your canna lily bulbs is after the first frost of the season. You will know it has happened because the lush green or bronze foliage will suddenly turn black or dark brown. While it might look a bit sad at first, this is actually a very helpful signal from nature.
The frost tells the plant that the growing season is over and it is time to move into dormancy. If you live in a region where frosts are rare or late, you can still dig them up in late autumn. However, waiting for that first light frost ensures the plant has finished storing as much energy as possible for the winter.
Avoid waiting until the ground actually freezes solid. You want to dig while the soil is still workable and before the deep cold reaches the rhizomes buried beneath the surface. Monitoring your local weather forecast in October and November is the easiest way to time your harvest perfectly.
What to do next:
- Watch for the first frost to blacken the leaves.
- Prepare your garden tools, such as a garden fork or spade.
- Clear a space in a garage or basement for the drying process.
How to Dig and Lift Your Canna Rhizomes
Once the foliage has been hit by frost, you are ready to dig. Start by cutting the stems down to about 4 to 6 inches above the soil line. These remaining stem stubs act as convenient handles and help you keep track of where the center of the plant is located.
Use a garden fork rather than a shovel if possible. A fork is less likely to slice through the rhizomes. Start digging about 12 inches away from the base of the stems. Canna rhizomes grow outward and can spread surprisingly far in a single season. For a broader step-by-step refresher, see How to Dig Up and Store Canna Bulbs. By giving the plant a wide berth, you reduce the risk of accidental damage.
Gently pry the entire clump upward from several sides until it loosens from the soil. Once the clump is free, lift it out carefully. Do not worry if the clump is heavy or if some soil clings to the roots. The goal is to get the main rhizome mass out of the ground in one piece whenever possible.
Cleaning and Preparing the Rhizomes
After lifting the clumps, you will want to remove the excess soil. You can do this by gently shaking the clump or using your hands to brush away the dirt. If your soil is very heavy or clay-based, a light spray from a garden hose can help wash away the stubborn bits.
If you use water to clean them, make sure the rhizomes have plenty of time to dry afterward. Moisture is the biggest challenge during storage, so starting with a dry surface is helpful. At this stage, you can also trim away any long, thin roots trailing from the thick rhizomes. These thin roots will naturally die back during dormancy anyway.
Check the rhizomes for any signs of damage or soft spots. If you see a section that feels mushy or looks diseased, simply cut it away with a clean knife. Healthy rhizomes should feel firm, similar to a fresh potato. Keeping only the healthiest pieces ensures that rot does not spread through your storage container during the winter.
Dividing for More Plants
One of the most exciting parts of growing cannas is how much they multiply. A single rhizome planted in May can turn into a large clump by October. Fall is an excellent time to divide these clumps, though you can also wait until spring if you prefer.
To divide them, look for the "eyes" on the rhizome. These are small, rounded bumps where new stems will emerge. A good division should have at least two or three healthy eyes and a decent piece of the thick rhizome attached. You can often snap these pieces apart by hand, or use a sharp, clean knife for a more precise cut.
Dividing the plants makes them much easier to store and manage. Instead of one giant, heavy mass, you will have several smaller pieces that fit neatly into boxes. This is also a great way to get extra plants to share with friends or to fill new areas of your garden next year.
The Importance of Curing
Curing is a simple but vital step that many gardeners overlook. After cleaning and dividing, the rhizomes need to dry out slightly before they go into long-term storage. This process allows the "wounds" from digging or dividing to callous over, creating a protective barrier against rot.
Spread your rhizomes out in a single layer on newspaper or a dry surface. Choose a spot that is out of direct sunlight but has good air circulation, such as a porch, garage, or shed. Let them sit for two to seven days depending on the humidity in your area.
The skin of the rhizome will toughen up slightly, and any remaining soil will become bone-dry. You are not looking to shrivel the plant entirely, just to ensure there is no surface moisture left. Think of it like air-drying a sweater—you want it dry to the touch but not damaged by heat.
Key Takeaway: Curing your canna rhizomes for a few days before storage creates a protective "skin" that prevents rot and helps the plant survive the winter in peak condition.
Choosing the Right Storage Containers
The goal of storage is to keep the rhizomes dormant, cool, and just barely moist enough so they do not turn into wood. Avoid using airtight plastic containers or sealed bags. These trap moisture and almost always lead to mold or rot.
Instead, use breathable containers such as:
- Cardboard boxes
- Paper grocery bags
- Plastic bins with the lids left off
- Burlap sacks or wooden crates
Cardboard boxes are a favorite choice at Longfield Gardens because they are inexpensive and allow for excellent air exchange. If you use a plastic bin, simply leave the lid off or drill many large holes in the sides to ensure the plants can breathe.
Selecting a Storage Medium
While some gardeners store cannas bare, using a packing material helps regulate moisture and protects the rhizomes from temperature fluctuations. The ideal material should be loose and slightly insulating.
The most popular options include:
- Peat Moss: Excellent at holding just enough moisture without being "wet."
- Pine Shavings: Often sold as animal bedding, these provide great airflow.
- Vermiculite or Perlite: These are clean and help prevent the rhizomes from touching each other.
- Shredded Paper: An easy, recycled option that works well in dry basements.
To pack them, place a layer of your chosen material in the bottom of the box. Arrange the rhizomes in a single layer so they are not touching. Cover them with more material and repeat until the box is full. Keeping the rhizomes separated prevents a single bad spot from spreading to the rest of the batch.
Finding the Perfect Winter Location
Location is everything when it comes to overwintering. You need a spot that stays consistently cool but never freezes. The ideal temperature range is between 40°F and 50°F. If the area is too warm, the cannas might try to start growing in the dark, which wastes their stored energy. If it is too cold, they will freeze.
Common successful storage spots include:
- An unheated basement or cellar
- A crawlspace
- A cool closet in a mudroom
- A heated garage that stays above freezing
Avoid storing your boxes directly on a concrete floor, as concrete can pull cold and moisture into the box. Instead, place the boxes on a shelf or a wooden pallet. This small gap provides extra insulation and keeps the temperature more stable.
Checking Your Rhizomes During Winter
Overwintering is not a "set it and forget it" task. It is a good idea to check on your stored cannas about once a month. This only takes a few minutes but can save your entire collection.
Open the boxes and feel a few of the rhizomes. If they feel extremely light and look shriveled, they may be getting too dry. You can give them a very light misting of water with a spray bottle—just enough to settle the dust, not to make the packing material wet. If you are planning to order replacements or compare spring shipping timing, our Shipping Information page is also useful.
If you find a rhizome that feels soft or smells sour, remove it immediately. This prevents any issues from spreading to the healthy plants. Most of the time, you will find they are sitting perfectly happy in their boxes, waiting for the days to get longer.
Winter Check-up List:
- Inspect for soft spots or mold.
- Feel for excessive shriveling (mist lightly if needed).
- Ensure the storage area has not become too warm or too cold.
- Remove any damaged pieces right away.
Starting Cannas in the Spring
When the weather begins to turn in early spring, you will likely see small white or pink sprouts beginning to emerge from your stored rhizomes. This is an exciting sign that they are ready to grow! You have two main options for getting them back into the garden.
The first option is to "pot them up" indoors. This is done about 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date. By planting the rhizomes in pots and placing them in a sunny window, you give them a head start. This results in much earlier blooms once they are moved outside. If you want a container-focused refresher, see How to Plant Canna Lily Bulbs in Pots. Use a standard potting mix and keep it lightly moist.
The second option is to plant them directly into the ground once the soil has warmed up to at least 60°F. Cannas love warm soil, so there is no rush to get them in the ground while the earth is still chilly. Waiting for consistent warmth ensures the rhizomes wake up quickly and start growing vigorously.
Planting for Success
When it is finally time to plant your overwintered cannas, choose a spot with full sun. These plants need at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight to produce those famous, vibrant flowers. They are also heavy feeders, so mixing some compost into the planting hole will give them the nutrients they need for a strong start.
Plant the rhizomes about 4 or 5 inches deep. If you can see the eyes or sprouts, make sure they are pointing upward. For a precise depth guide, see How Deep Do You Plant Canna Lily Bulbs?. Space the plants about 1 to 2 feet apart, depending on the variety. Larger types need more room to breathe and show off their foliage.
Water them in well after planting to settle the soil around the roots. Within a few weeks, you should see those iconic pointed shoots poking through the soil. Before you know it, your garden will once again be filled with the tropical beauty of the cannas you worked so hard to save.
Encouraging Realistic Expectations
Every gardening season is a bit different. Your success with overwintering can depend on the humidity in your basement or how cold the winter gets. If a few rhizomes do not make it through the winter, do not be discouraged. Even professional growers lose a few pieces now and then.
The health of the plant during the summer also plays a role. Plants that received plenty of water and sun will have more energy stored in their rhizomes, making them more resilient during dormancy. By following the steps in this guide, you are giving your cannas the best possible chance to thrive.
Remember that cannas are naturally vigorous. Even a small piece of rhizome that looks a bit dry can often surprise you with a burst of growth once it hits warm soil. If you are shopping for a bigger display next season, browse Canna Assorted Mix - Bulk Offer for a ready-made group planting. Gardening is a journey of observation, and over time, you will find the perfect rhythm for overwintering in your specific home and climate.
Summary of the Overwintering Process
Saving your canna lilies is a rewarding way to participate in the full lifecycle of your garden. It connects you to the seasons and allows you to build a collection of plants that grow more impressive every year. We believe that with just a little bit of care, anyone can successfully keep these tropical treasures from year to year.
The process boils down to a few simple basics: timing your harvest with the frost, keeping the rhizomes dry and clean, and finding a cool, dark place for them to sleep. By protecting that stored energy, you are ensuring a vibrant, colorful display for the following summer.
Key Takeaways for Storage
- Wait for the frost: Let nature tell you when the plant is ready for dormancy.
- Cure before packing: Dry the rhizomes for a few days to prevent rot.
- Use breathable containers: Avoid plastic bags; choose cardboard or paper instead.
- Monitor the temperature: Keep them cool (40–50°F) but never let them freeze.
We invite you to explore the many beautiful varieties available at Longfield Gardens to add even more color to your summer landscape. If you want a taller garden backdrop next year, Tall Cannas is a great place to start. With these overwintering skills in your toolkit, your garden will continue to grow in beauty and scale every single year.
Your next step: After the first frost, set aside an afternoon to lift and clean your cannas. Getting them tucked away early ensures you can relax and enjoy the winter months knowing your garden's stars are safe.
FAQ
Can I leave my canna lilies in the ground if I live in Zone 7?
It depends on the severity of the winter and your specific microclimate. In Zone 7, cannas can often survive if they are planted in a protected area, like against a south-facing wall, and covered with 6 to 8 inches of mulch. However, since an unusually cold winter can still kill them, many gardeners in this zone choose to dig them up just to be safe. If you are comparing where different canna types ship and when they can be planted, the Shipping Information page can help.
Should I wash the dirt off the rhizomes with a hose?
You can use a hose to wash away heavy soil, but it is not always necessary. If you do use water, it is critical to let the rhizomes dry completely during the curing phase before putting them in boxes. Most gardeners find that simply brushing off the loose soil by hand or with a soft brush is sufficient and reduces the risk of trapped moisture. For a potting refresher, How to Plant Canna Lily Bulbs in Pots covers container basics.
What happens if I don't wait for a frost to dig them up?
You can dig up canna lilies before the first frost, especially if you know a hard freeze is coming or your schedule won't allow you to do it later. The frost is simply a helpful signal that the plant has finished its growth cycle. If you dig them early, just make sure to cut the foliage back and follow the same curing and storage steps. For more on climate timing, the Hardiness Zone Map is a useful reference.
Why did my stored canna lilies turn into mush last year?
The most common cause of "mushy" rhizomes is excess moisture. This usually happens if the rhizomes weren't cured (dried) enough before storage, or if they were stored in airtight plastic containers that trapped humidity. To prevent this, always use breathable containers like cardboard boxes and check them once a month to remove any pieces that show early signs of decay. If you are preparing for spring planting, How Deep Do You Plant Canna Lily Bulbs? is a helpful follow-up.
