Simple Steps for Digging Canna Bulbs This Fall

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Knowing When to Dig Your Cannas
3. Preparing the Plants for Lifting
4. The Right Way to Dig Canna Rhizomes
5. Cleaning and Inspecting Your Harvest
6. The Importance of Curing
7. Should You Divide Now or Later?
8. Choosing the Best Storage Container
9. Selecting a Storage Medium
10. Finding the Perfect Winter Spot
11. Mid-Winter Checkups
12. Moving from Storage to Spring Planting
13. Growing Cannas in Containers
14. Realistic Expectations for Overwintering
15. Why We Love Cannas at Longfield Gardens
16. Summary of the Process
17. FAQ

Introduction

There is nothing quite like the bold, tropical energy that cannas bring to a summer garden. Their towering stems, massive leaves, and vibrant blooms create a vacation-like atmosphere right in your backyard. At Longfield Gardens, we believe every gardener should experience the joy of these high-impact plants. While they are incredibly easy to grow during the warm months, gardeners in cooler climates often wonder what to do when the summer heat begins to fade.

Digging canna bulbs—technically known as rhizomes—is a straightforward task that allows you to save your favorite varieties for next year. It is a satisfying end-of-season ritual that feels more like a rewarding investment than a chore. Whether you are growing the dramatic 'Black Knight' with its dark foliage or the sunny 'City of Portland,' lifting these plants ensures they stay safe and dormant through the winter.

This guide will walk you through the entire process of lifting, cleaning, and storing your cannas. We designed these steps for gardeners of all skill levels, focusing on the simple basics that lead to successful blooming year after year. By following this easy routine, you can build a massive collection of tropical plants from just a few initial bulbs. If you are looking for a convenient way to shop, take a look at our Summer Blooming Bulbs for Containers and Shop Spring Planted Bulbs pages.

Knowing When to Dig Your Cannas

The most important part of digging canna bulbs is the timing. You do not need to rush this process as soon as the calendar turns to September. In fact, cannas benefit from staying in the ground as long as the weather is mild. They spend the late summer and early autumn storing energy in their rhizomes to fuel next year's growth.

The signal to start digging usually comes from the weather. You want to wait for the first light frost of the season. This frost will "burn" the foliage, causing the leaves to turn brown or black. While it might look like the plant is finished, this is actually a helpful cue. Once the leaves have been hit by frost, the plant stops growing and begins its dormant phase. If you are unsure about your climate, check the Hardiness Zone Map.

If you live in a region that does not experience frost until very late in the year, you can simply wait until the foliage begins to yellow and look tired. Generally, most gardeners in USDA hardiness zones 3 through 7 will need to lift their cannas. If you are in zone 8 or warmer, your cannas can often stay in the ground year-round with a thick layer of mulch for protection.

Observation Tips for Timing

• Watch the leaves for a change from vibrant green to a wilted, dark color after a cold night.
• Check your local weather forecast for the first "killing frost."
• If your soil is still workable and not frozen, you are in the perfect window for digging.

Key Takeaway: Wait for the first light frost to blacken the foliage before you begin digging. This natural signal tells the plant it is time to rest and ensures the rhizomes have stored maximum energy for next spring.

Preparing the Plants for Lifting

Before you reach for your shovel, you need to prepare the "top" of the plant. Dealing with six-foot-tall stalks while trying to dig can be clumsy and unnecessary. Removing the bulk of the foliage makes the actual digging much easier and helps you see exactly where the base of the plant is.

Use a pair of clean, sharp garden shears or loppers to cut the stalks down. You should aim to leave about 2 to 4 inches of stem protruding above the soil line. This remaining "handle" is very useful. It helps you identify where the rhizomes are located and gives you something to hold onto as you lift the clump out of the ground.

Once the stalks are cut, you can compost the healthy green material. If you noticed any unusual pests during the growing season, it is better to dispose of the foliage in the trash to keep your garden beds clean. With the tall stalks out of the way, you now have a clear view of the task at hand. For help with order timing, see our Shipping Information.

Preparation Checklist

• Cut stalks down to about 3 inches above the soil.
• Clear away any mulch or fallen leaves from the base of the plant.
• Gather your tools, such as a garden fork or a sturdy spade.

The Right Way to Dig Canna Rhizomes

When it comes time to actually lift the bulbs, your goal is to keep the rhizomes intact. Canna rhizomes grow horizontally and can spread quite a bit during a single summer. If you dig too close to the stem, you might accidentally slice through a healthy bulb.

The best tool for this job is often a garden fork. Unlike a solid spade, the tines of a fork can slide into the soil with less resistance and are less likely to sever the rhizomes. If you only have a spade, that works too—just be sure to give the plant plenty of space.

Start by inserting your tool into the soil about 10 to 12 inches away from the center of the stalk. Push the tool straight down and gently pry upward. Work your way around the entire plant in a circle, loosening the soil as you go. You will feel the "clump" start to give way. Once the soil is loose all the way around, use the stem "handle" to gently lift the entire mass out of the ground.

Simple Steps for Lifting

• Dig a wide circle around the plant to avoid cutting the rhizomes.
• Losen the soil on all sides before trying to lift.
• Lift the whole clump at once rather than trying to pull individual pieces out.

Cleaning and Inspecting Your Harvest

Once the canna clumps are out of the ground, you will notice they are covered in soil. It is tempting to grab a hose and spray them clean, but this is usually not necessary and can lead to excess moisture issues during storage. Instead, use your hands to gently brush away the largest chunks of soil.

If your soil is very heavy or wet, you can let the clumps sit on the lawn or a garden bench for an hour or two. As the mud dries slightly, it becomes much easier to shake off. You don't need the rhizomes to be perfectly clean; a little bit of clinging soil won't hurt anything.

While you are cleaning, take a moment to inspect the health of your bulbs. Healthy canna rhizomes should feel firm, similar to a potato. If you find any parts that feel soft, mushy, or look like they are beginning to decay, simply snap those pieces off and discard them. This keeps the rest of the clump healthy during its winter nap.

Key Takeaway: Gently shake or brush off excess soil rather than washing the bulbs with water. Firm, healthy rhizomes are the goal, so remove any soft spots before moving to the next step.

The Importance of Curing

Curing is a fancy gardening term for letting the bulbs air-dry before they go into long-term storage. This is a vital step because it allows the "skin" of the rhizome to toughen up. A properly cured bulb is much more resistant to rot and mold during the winter months.

Find a spot that is dry, out of direct sunlight, and protected from frost. A garage, a garden shed, or even a basement works perfectly. Spread the canna clumps out in a single layer. You can place them on top of old newspapers or pieces of cardboard to catch any remaining soil that falls off.

Let the cannas sit for about 3 to 7 days. You are looking for the exterior of the rhizome to feel dry to the touch and for any remaining soil to turn dusty. If the weather is particularly humid, they might need an extra day or two. Once they feel "cured," they are ready for their final winter home.

What to Look for During Curing

• A dry, slightly toughened outer skin.
• Any remaining cut stems should look shriveled and dry.
• The bulbs should still feel heavy and firm, not light or hollow.

Should You Divide Now or Later?

One of the best things about cannas is how much they multiply. A single bulb planted in the spring will often turn into a large clump by autumn. You might be wondering if you should break these clumps apart into individual bulbs before you store them.

At Longfield Gardens, we usually suggest waiting until spring to do your major dividing. Keeping the clump together during the winter helps protect the inner rhizomes from drying out too much. Large clumps tend to survive the storage process better than tiny, individual pieces. If you want more options for planting groups, browse our Assorted Spring Planted Bulb Combinations and Shop All - Shop Spring Planted Bulbs.

However, if a clump is simply too large to fit into your storage container, you can certainly break it into two or three smaller sections. Use your hands to pull them apart at the natural "joints" or use a clean knife to make a sharp cut. If you do cut them, make sure to let the cut ends dry for an extra day before packing them away.

Choosing the Best Storage Container

Your choice of container depends on how many cannas you have and how much space you have in your home. The goal is to provide a dark, cool environment where the bulbs won't freeze but also won't get so warm that they start growing prematurely.

Cardboard boxes are a classic choice because they are breathable. Plastic storage bins also work well, provided you do not snap the lid on tight. Leaving the lid slightly ajar or drilling a few small holes in the sides allows for a tiny bit of air circulation, which prevents moisture from building up and causing rot. If you are still building your collection, our Collections page is a helpful place to browse.

Some gardeners prefer to use paper grocery bags for smaller collections. These are easy to tuck away on a shelf. Whatever you choose, make sure the container is sturdy enough to hold the weight of the bulbs and any packing material you add.

Container Options

• Cardboard boxes (excellent breathability).
• Plastic bins (durable, but leave the lid cracked).
• Paper bags (good for small quantities or individual varieties).

Selecting a Storage Medium

While you can store canna bulbs "naked" in a box, they often do better when tucked into a packing medium. This material helps regulate moisture. It keeps the bulbs from drying out into shriveled husks while also absorbing any excess dampness that might lead to mold.

The most popular choices are peat moss, vermiculite, or coarse wood shavings (like the kind used for pet bedding). These materials are lightweight and easy to handle. Some people even use shredded newspaper or dry sand.

To pack your bulbs, start by placing a two-inch layer of your chosen medium in the bottom of the box. Place your canna clumps on top, making sure they aren't squeezed too tightly together. Cover them with more medium until the bulbs are completely nestled. You don't need to pack it down; a loose covering is perfect.

Popular Packing Materials

• Peat Moss: Holds a tiny bit of moisture to prevent shriveling.
• Wood Shavings: Provides great air circulation and is very affordable.
• Vermiculite: A clean, mineral-based option that resists mold.

Finding the Perfect Winter Spot

The location where you store your boxes is just as important as the boxes themselves. Cannas need to stay cool, but they cannot survive being frozen. If the rhizomes freeze, the cells inside will burst, and the bulb will turn into a mushy mess when it thaws.

The ideal temperature for canna storage is between 40°F and 50°F. For most people, an unheated basement, a crawl space, or an attached garage that stays above freezing is the best bet. Avoid spots near a furnace or water heater, as the heat will dry out the bulbs too quickly or trick them into thinking it is springtime.

If you are storing multiple varieties, this is a great time to label your boxes. It is very easy to forget which box contains the 'Musifolia' and which has the 'City of Portland' by the time April rolls around! A simple piece of masking tape and a marker will save you a lot of guesswork later.

Storage Location Tips

• Keep the boxes off cold concrete floors by placing them on a pallet or a shelf.
• Check the temperature of the room occasionally during extreme cold snaps.
• Keep the area dark to ensure the plants stay in deep dormancy.

Mid-Winter Checkups

Even though your cannas are dormant, it is a good idea to peek at them once or twice during the winter. This "quick check" allows you to catch any minor issues before they become big problems. Most of the time, you will find them resting peacefully, but a little bit of attention goes a long way.

Open your boxes and feel a few of the rhizomes. If they feel extremely shriveled or lightweight, they might be getting too dry. You can fix this by lightly misting the packing medium with a spray bottle of water. You don't want it to be wet—just a tiny bit of humidity is enough to plump them back up.

Conversely, if you see any signs of fuzzy mold or smell a "sour" odor, the bulbs might be too damp. Remove any affected pieces immediately. Leave the lid off the box for a few days to let the excess moisture evaporate. Adjusting these small things ensures you have a high success rate when planting season returns.

Key Takeaway: Check your bulbs once in January and once in March. A quick misting if they are dry, or more airflow if they are damp, keeps them in prime condition for spring.

Moving from Storage to Spring Planting

When the days start to get longer and the soil begins to warm, the excitement of a new garden season begins. You can typically start checking your stored cannas for signs of life in late March or April. You might see small, pale "eyes" or sprouts beginning to emerge from the rhizomes. This is a great sign!

In cooler zones, many gardeners like to give their cannas a head start by planting them in pots indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost. This "pre-starting" method means you will have large, leafy plants ready to go into the ground as soon as the weather is warm. If you prefer to keep it simple, you can wait until the soil is at least 60°F and plant the rhizomes directly into your garden beds.

When you are ready to plant, this is the perfect time to divide those large clumps. Each piece of rhizome only needs one or two "eyes" (the small bumps where sprouts grow) to produce a full, beautiful plant. Simply pull or cut the clumps into smaller sections, and you will find that your canna collection has grown significantly over the winter.

Spring Transition Steps

• Inspect bulbs for new sprouts (eyes).
• Divide large clumps into smaller sections with at least one eye each.
• Wait for warm soil (60°F) before planting outdoors.

Growing Cannas in Containers

If you grew your cannas in large pots or patio containers, the digging process is even easier. In fact, you don't necessarily have to "dig" at all in the traditional sense. You can simply move the entire pot into a frost-free area for the winter.

Wait for the frost to hit the foliage, cut the stalks down, and then move the pot into your garage or basement. The soil in the pot acts as a natural insulator and packing medium. You won't need to water it at all during the winter; just let the soil dry out completely.

In the spring, you can tip the pot over, shake out the soil, and you will find a massive clump of healthy rhizomes ready to be divided and replanted with fresh potting mix. This is a very convenient method for city gardeners or those with limited garden space.

Container Storage Benefits

• Less mess than digging in the garden.
• The pot provides a built-in storage container.
• Easy to move and organize in a garage or shed.

Realistic Expectations for Overwintering

While digging and storing cannas is a very successful practice, it is important to remember that these are living things. Every winter is a bit different, and factors like humidity and storage temperature play a role in how many bulbs survive.

It is normal to lose a bulb or two to rot or over-drying during the winter. This is why we recommend keeping your clumps large and dividing them in the spring; it gives the plant more "buffer" against the elements. If you started with five clumps and four of them come through the winter perfectly, you have done an excellent job.

The beauty of cannas is their resilience. Even if a rhizome looks a bit shriveled and uninspiring in April, it often "wakes up" and grows vigorously once it hits warm, moist soil. Gardening is a journey of observation, and each year you store your bulbs, you will get a better feel for the specific microclimate of your storage space. For more general growing tips, visit our Learn page.

Why We Love Cannas at Longfield Gardens

At Longfield Gardens, we are passionate about helping you create a garden that feels like a sanctuary. Cannas are one of the most rewarding plants we offer because they provide so much "bang for your buck." They grow quickly, resist most pests, and offer a color palette that ranges from soft pastels to fiery oranges and reds. If you want to browse by color, our Spring Planted Bulbs By Color page makes it easy.

By taking the time to dig your bulbs each fall, you are participating in a timeless gardening tradition. It allows you to preserve specific varieties that you love and share your extra bulbs with friends and neighbors. There is a special kind of pride that comes from seeing a massive, blooming canna in July and knowing you helped it through the winter yourself.

We are here to support you with quality bulbs and practical advice every step of the way. Whether you are planting your first canna or your fiftieth, the process of digging and storing is a simple skill that will serve your garden well for years to come.

Key Takeaway: Digging canna bulbs is a simple, high-reward task. With just a little bit of autumn effort, you can enjoy these tropical beauties year after year, expanding your garden's footprint each season.

Summary of the Process

Lifting your cannas doesn't have to be a complicated project. If you focus on a few key steps, you will have great results.

• Wait for the Cue: Let the first frost turn the leaves brown before you start.
• Cut and Dig: Remove the tall stalks and lift the clumps with a garden fork, giving the roots plenty of space.
• Cure and Clean: Brush off the soil and let the bulbs dry in a protected area for several days.
• Pack and Store: Place the bulbs in a breathable container with peat moss or wood shavings.
• Stay Cool: Keep the boxes in a dark, frost-free spot between 40°F and 50°F.

Digging canna bulbs is one of the easiest ways to ensure your garden remains a tropical paradise every summer. It is a simple investment of time that pays off in massive blooms and lush foliage year after year.

FAQ

How deep should I dig to avoid hitting the bulbs?

Canna rhizomes are usually found quite close to the surface, typically only 2 to 5 inches deep. However, they can grow quite wide. It is best to start your digging about 10 to 12 inches away from the main stem and angle your fork or spade toward the center to lift the entire mass from underneath. For planting questions, see our How Deep Do You Plant Canna Bulbs? Expert Planting Guide.

Can I store cannas in a refrigerator?

While a refrigerator is cool, it is often too cold and too dry for canna rhizomes. Most refrigerators are set below 40°F, which can edge too close to freezing temperatures for these tropical plants. A basement or a cool closet is usually a much better environment for successful overwintering.

Do I need to wash the dirt off before storing?

It is actually better not to wash them. Using water can introduce excess moisture into the "nooks and crannies" of the rhizome clump, which can lead to rot during storage. Simply brushing off the loose soil after it has had a chance to dry is the safest approach for the health of the bulb.

What happens if I forget to dig my cannas?

If you live in a cold climate (Zone 7 or lower) and leave your cannas in the ground without significant protection, the frozen soil will likely kill the rhizomes. They will turn into a soft, watery mush in the spring. If you realize you forgot to dig them and the ground isn't frozen yet, you can still lift them as long as the bulbs themselves haven't frozen.