Introduction
The towering height and tropical flair of canna lilies often make them the centerpiece of the summer garden. There is nothing quite like the satisfaction of watching those vibrant, paddle-shaped leaves unfurl or seeing the first brilliant blossoms emerge in the heat of July. These plants bring a lush, exotic energy to any landscape, whether they are planted in large garden beds or used as dramatic focal points in patio containers.
At Longfield Gardens, we want to help you enjoy that tropical beauty year after year. While canna lilies are tender perennials, they are incredibly resilient if you give them a little bit of care as the season winds down. Storing canna lily bulbs—technically known as rhizomes—is a straightforward process that allows you to save your favorite varieties and even expand your garden for the following spring. For timing and delivery planning, see our Shipping Information.
This guide is designed for home gardeners who want to move beyond treating cannas as annuals and instead keep them as long-term garden investments. We will cover everything from the best time to lift them from the ground to the ideal environment for their winter dormancy. If you are checking your climate, the Hardiness Zone Map is a helpful place to start.
Knowing When to Dig Your Canna Lilies
The first step in successfully storing your canna lilies is understanding the timing. Because cannas are tropical plants, they are sensitive to freezing temperatures. However, they are also tougher than they look. You do not need to rush out at the first hint of cool autumn air. In fact, a little bit of cold weather is actually beneficial for the plants.
In most regions of the United States, the signal to start the storage process is the first "killing frost." This is a frost that is cold enough to turn the lush green or bronze foliage of your cannas into a dark, wilted brown. While it might look sad to see your beautiful plants succumb to the cold, this frost serves an important purpose. It tells the plant that the growing season is over and that it is time to move its energy down into the rhizome for winter storage.
Think of the rhizome as a biological battery. Throughout the summer, the leaves have been collecting sunlight and converting it into energy. When the foliage dies back in the fall, the plant finishes the process of tucking that energy away. Waiting until after the first frost ensures that the "battery" is fully charged for next year’s growth. If you want more background on tall, dramatic varieties, our guide to canna heights is a useful companion read.
Hardiness Zones and Your Strategy
Your local climate dictates whether you need to dig up your canna lilies at all. At Longfield Gardens, we generally recommend checking your USDA hardiness zone to determine your plan of action.
- Zones 8 to 10: In these warmer climates, canna lilies can usually stay in the ground year-round. You can simply cut the foliage back to the ground after it yellows and perhaps add a light layer of mulch for aesthetics.
- Zone 7: This is the "swing" zone. In many years, cannas will survive the winter if they are planted in a protected area (like against a south-facing wall) and covered with 6 to 8 inches of mulch, such as straw or shredded leaves. However, if a particularly harsh winter is predicted, digging them up is the safer choice.
- Zones 3 to 6: In these cooler regions, canna lilies will not survive the frozen ground. To keep your plants for next year, you must lift the rhizomes and store them indoors in a frost-free environment.
Key Takeaway: Wait for the first frost to turn the foliage brown before you begin digging. This natural cue ensures the rhizomes have stored enough energy to produce healthy blooms next summer.
Preparing the Plants for Lifting
Once the frost has arrived and the leaves have darkened, you can begin the physical work of lifting. Before you reach for your shovel, you will want to tidy up the plants to make the process easier.
Start by cutting the stems down. Use a sharp pair of bypass pruners or a garden saw if the stalks are particularly thick. You should leave about 2 to 4 inches of the stem attached to the rhizome clump. These short "stubs" serve as a handle when you are lifting the plants and help you identify which way is up when it comes time to replant in the spring.
It is helpful to clear away any mulch or fallen leaves from around the base of the plant. This gives you a clear view of the soil surface so you can see exactly where the clumps begin and end. Canna rhizomes can grow quite large over a single summer, often spreading out much further than the original spot where you planted them. For spacing and garden planning, see How Far Apart to Plant Canna Bulbs.
What to do next:
- Check your local weather forecast for the first frost date.
- Gather your tools: a sharp spade or garden fork, pruners, and a workspace for cleaning.
- Identify and label your varieties if you have different colors planted together.
The Best Way to Lift Canna Rhizomes
When you are ready to dig, the goal is to lift the entire clump without slicing through the fleshy rhizomes. Canna rhizomes are thick and sturdy, but they can be bruised or cut if hit directly with a shovel.
Start by inserting your spade or garden fork into the soil about 8 to 12 inches away from the base of the stems. If you have a large, established clump, you may need to go even wider. Dig straight down into the soil all the way around the plant to loosen the root system.
Once you have circled the plant, use the shovel to gently pry the clump upward. If you feel resistance, don't force it. Move to a different side and loosen the soil further. Usually, the entire mass will pop up relatively easily once the surrounding soil is loose. If you are still in the planning stage for next spring, our when to plant canna bulbs guide can help you map out the season.
Handling the Clumps
Lift the clump out of the hole and gently shake it to remove the largest chunks of soil. At this stage, you will notice that the rhizomes have multiplied. What started as a single small piece in the spring might now be a heavy, dense mass of several interconnected rhizomes.
It is perfectly fine to leave the soil on the rhizomes for a few hours while you finish digging the rest of your garden. However, do not leave them exposed on the surface of the ground if another hard freeze is expected overnight.
Cleaning and Curing the Rhizomes
Cleaning is a vital part of the storage process because it allows you to inspect the health of the rhizomes and prevents soil-borne diseases from hitching a ride into storage.
You have two options for cleaning: shaking or rinsing. If your soil is loose and sandy, you can often just use your hands to brush away the excess dirt. If you have heavy clay soil, a gentle spray from a garden hose can help wash away the mud so you can see the white or pinkish-tan skin of the rhizomes.
Why Curing Matters
After cleaning, the rhizomes need to "cure." Curing is simply a fancy word for letting the outer skin dry and toughen up. This process helps prevent rot during the long winter months.
To cure your cannas, place the cleaned clumps in a well-ventilated area that is out of direct sunlight and protected from rain and frost. A garage, shed, or covered porch works well. Spread them out in a single layer rather than stacking them.
Let the rhizomes air dry for about 2 to 4 days. During this time, any remaining soil will dry up and fall off, and the cut ends of the stems will begin to callus over. If the weather is particularly humid, you might need an extra day or two. The rhizomes should feel dry to the touch, but they should still feel heavy and firm—not shriveled.
Key Takeaway: Proper cleaning and a short curing period are the best defenses against mold and rot. Ensuring the exterior is dry before packing them away keeps the rhizomes healthy until spring.
To Divide or Not to Divide?
One of the most exciting parts of growing canna lilies is that they are the "gift that keeps on giving." Because they multiply underground, you will almost always have more plants in the fall than you started with in the spring.
You can choose to divide the clumps now, or you can wait until the spring.
Dividing in the Fall
Many gardeners prefer to divide in the fall because it makes the rhizomes easier to pack into storage containers. To divide them, look for the natural "joints" in the clump. You can usually snap them apart by hand or use a clean, sharp knife.
Each division should have at least one or two "eyes." These are the small, pointed buds that will eventually grow into new stems. Larger divisions with three to five eyes will typically produce a bigger, more impressive plant in their first year.
Waiting Until Spring
If you aren't sure where you want to plant them next year, or if you are short on time, you can store the clumps whole. The advantage of this is that the inner parts of the clump are better protected from drying out. You can then break them apart in March or April just before you start them indoors or plant them outside.
Choosing Your Storage Containers
There are several ways to store canna lily bulbs, and the "best" way often depends on what materials you have on hand and the humidity levels in your home. We have seen success with various methods, but they all share one goal: keeping the rhizome dormant without letting it dry out completely or get so wet that it rots.
The Plastic Bin Method
This is one of the most popular methods for home gardeners. Use a plastic storage tote but do not snap the lid on tightly. In fact, many people prefer to leave the lid off or drill several large holes in the sides of the bin to allow for air circulation.
Layer the rhizomes in the bin, covering them with a packing medium. We recommend using slightly damp peat moss, vermiculite, or coarse sawdust. These materials act as insulation and help maintain a consistent moisture level.
The Cardboard Box Method
If you have a basement or cellar with decent humidity, a cardboard box is a great option. Line the box with a few layers of newspaper, place the rhizomes inside, and cover them with more newspaper or dry peat moss. The cardboard allows the rhizomes to "breathe," which significantly reduces the risk of mold.
The Paper Bag Method
For those with only a few rhizomes, large brown paper grocery bags work well. Place a few rhizomes in the bag with some wood shavings or peat moss, fold the top over loosely, and store them on a shelf.
The "Potting Up" Method
If you grew your cannas in containers, you have the easiest option of all. Once the frost hits, cut the foliage back to the soil level and move the entire pot into a cool, dark place like a basement or crawlspace. You don't even need to dig them up. The soil in the pot acts as the perfect storage medium. Just keep the soil dry throughout the winter.
Finding the Perfect Storage Location
The environment where you keep your containers is just as important as how you pack them. Cannas need a spot that mimics a "refrigerator" environment—cool and dark, but never freezing.
Temperature is Key
The ideal temperature range for storing canna lily bulbs is between 40°F and 50°F.
- Too Warm: If the storage area is consistently above 55°F or 60°F, the rhizomes may think it is spring and start to sprout prematurely. This uses up their stored energy too early.
- Too Cold: If the temperature drops below freezing (32°F), the water inside the fleshy rhizomes will freeze, causing the cells to burst. This results in a mushy, dead rhizome that will not grow.
Humidity and Light
The storage area should be dark to keep the plants in a deep state of dormancy. A bit of humidity is also helpful to keep the rhizomes from turning into "mummies" (shriveling up). Unheated basements, root cellars, or a cool corner of a crawlspace are usually the best spots. Avoid storing them in an attic (which gets too hot) or a garage that isn't insulated (where they might freeze during a cold snap). If you have questions about timing or orders, our Contact Us page is the quickest way to reach us.
Winter Maintenance and Troubleshooting
Storing canna lily bulbs isn't exactly a "set it and forget it" task. To ensure the highest success rate, you should check on your "babies" about once a month.
When you check them, look for two things: rot and shriveling.
Dealing with Rot
If you find a rhizome that feels soft, mushy, or has a foul smell, it is beginning to rot. This usually happens if the rhizomes were too wet when they were packed or if there isn't enough air circulation. Immediately remove any rotting pieces so the decay doesn't spread to the healthy rhizomes. If only a small part of a large clump is soft, you can cut that section off with a clean knife and let the healthy part air dry for a day before putting it back.
Dealing with Shriveled Rhizomes
If the rhizomes feel very light and the skin looks wrinkled like a prune, they are drying out too much. This is common in homes with very dry winter air. To fix this, simply use a spray bottle to lightly mist the packing medium (the peat moss or sawdust) with water. You don't want it to be soaking wet—just slightly damp to the touch. This provides enough ambient moisture to plump the rhizomes back up.
What to do next:
- Set a monthly reminder on your calendar to check your stored bulbs.
- Keep a spray bottle of water near your storage bins for quick adjustments.
- If you see early sprouts in late winter, move the bins to an even cooler (but still frost-free) spot.
Replanting in the Spring
As the days get longer and the ground begins to warm, your stored canna lilies will naturally start to wake up. You may see small white or pink tips beginning to emerge from the eyes of the rhizomes. This is your signal that it’s nearly time to get back into the garden.
In most areas, you can plant cannas directly into the ground once the danger of frost has passed and the soil has reached at least 60°F. Because they are tropical, they love warm soil. If you want a head start on the season, you can "start" your rhizomes indoors in pots about 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost date. This gives you much larger plants by the time June rolls around.
When replanting, place the rhizomes about 4 to 6 inches deep with the "eyes" or stubs pointing upward. Space them about 1 to 2 feet apart, depending on the variety’s ultimate size. Give them a good drink of water to settle the soil, and then wait for those first magnificent leaves to break through the surface. If you are curious about broader plant selection by climate, our Hardiness Zone Map can help.
Enjoying the Cycle of the Garden
Gardening is a practice of patience and observation, and there is a deep sense of accomplishment in successfully overwintering your plants. By taking the time to store your canna lily bulbs, you are participating in a tradition that gardeners have practiced for generations. It saves money, allows you to preserve rare or favorite colors, and gives you a head start on a lush, tropical landscape every single year.
At Longfield Gardens, we believe that every gardener can have success with these vibrant plants. Whether you are storing a single pot of cannas or an entire border’s worth of rhizomes, the process is rewarding and straightforward. With the right timing and a cool, dark corner for the winter, your cannas will be ready to dazzle you all over again when the summer heat returns. For more gardening inspiration, explore our Learn page.
Key Takeaway: Success in storing canna lilies comes down to three things: waiting for the frost, curing the rhizomes properly, and keeping them in a cool, dark, frost-free spot. A little monthly check-up ensures they stay healthy until spring.
We are here to support your gardening journey with quality plants and practical advice. If you ever have questions about your bulbs or need help planning your next garden layout, our team is always ready to help you grow your best garden yet. You can also learn more about our 100% Guarantee.
FAQ
Can I store canna lilies without digging them up?
In USDA hardiness zones 8 and warmer, you can leave cannas in the ground. In zone 7, you can often leave them if you apply a thick layer of mulch (6-8 inches) to protect them from freezing. In zones 6 and colder, the ground freezes deep enough to kill the rhizomes, so they must be dug up and stored indoors in a frost-free area.
Should I wash the dirt off the rhizomes before storing them?
Yes, it is generally better to wash or brush off the excess soil. Cleaning the rhizomes allows you to inspect them for pests or soft spots and prevents soil-borne fungi from causing rot during the winter. Just make sure to let the rhizomes "cure" or air dry for a few days after washing before you pack them into storage containers.
What is the best material to pack canna rhizomes in for the winter?
Slightly damp peat moss, vermiculite, or coarse sawdust are the most effective materials. These media help maintain a consistent, low level of moisture around the rhizome, which prevents it from shriveling up without being so wet that it causes mold. Shredded newspaper or wood shavings can also work well in humid basements.
What should I do if my stored canna bulbs start to sprout in February?
If you see sprouts early in the year, it usually means your storage area is too warm. Move the containers to a cooler spot, such as a lower shelf or a different part of the basement, to slow down the growth. If the sprouts are already several inches long, you may need to pot them up in soil and keep them in a sunny window until it is warm enough to move them outside.
