Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Understanding Canna Rhizomes
- When to Dig Up Canna Bulbs
- How to Dig Cannas Carefully
- Cleaning and Curing for Success
- Choosing the Best Storage Medium
- The Ideal Storage Environment
- Managing Your Cannas During Winter
- Storing Potted Cannas
- Dividing Rhizomes for More Plants
- Preparing for Spring Planting
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Introduction
Canna lilies bring a bold, tropical energy to the garden that few other plants can match. Their oversized leaves and vibrant flowers create a stunning focal point from midsummer all the way into autumn. At Longfield Gardens, we love how these easy-to-grow plants transform a backyard into an island paradise. The best part is that you do not have to buy new ones every year. With a little bit of care, you can save your favorite varieties to plant again next spring.
Learning the best way to store canna bulbs is one of the most rewarding skills for a home gardener. While cannas are tropical plants, they are surprisingly resilient if you follow a few simple steps. This guide will help you understand when to dig them up, how to prepare them for their winter nap, and where to keep them so they stay healthy. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced gardener, these practical tips will ensure your cannas come back bigger and better next season.
Proper winter storage is the key to maintaining a beautiful and cost-effective garden year after year.
Understanding Canna Rhizomes
Before we talk about storage, it is helpful to know what we are actually digging up. Although most gardeners call them "bulbs," cannas grow from "rhizomes." A rhizome is a fleshy, horizontal underground stem. It acts as a storage tank for the plant, holding all the energy needed to sprout new leaves and flowers.
Because these rhizomes are full of moisture, they cannot survive in frozen ground. In USDA hardiness zones 8 and warmer, the soil usually stays warm enough for cannas to stay in the garden year-round. However, for those of us in zones 7 and colder, the winter frost will damage or destroy the rhizome if it is left outside.
Choosing to store your cannas is an exciting way to build your collection. Over the summer, a single rhizome will often grow and produce "offsets," which are smaller new rhizomes. By the time fall arrives, your original plant has likely turned into a large clump. Storing these clumps allows you to have more plants to share with friends or to fill more space in your garden next year.
When to Dig Up Canna Bulbs
Timing is the most important factor when it is time to bring your cannas inside. You want to give the plant as much time as possible to store energy, but you must act before the ground freezes solid.
The First Frost Signal
The best time to dig up cannas is right after the first light frost of autumn. You will know it has happened when the lush green or bronze leaves turn black or brown and look wilted. This frost is a helpful signal from nature. It tells the plant that the growing season is over and it is time to go dormant.
If you live in an area where frost comes very late, you can still dig them up in late October or early November. The goal is to wait until the plant stops active growth but before the deep, "hard" freezes arrive. A hard freeze is when the temperature stays below 28°F for several hours, which can potentially damage the rhizomes near the soil surface.
Preparing for the Move
If you see a frost in the weather forecast, you can get ahead of the work by cutting the stalks back. Use sharp garden shears to cut the stems down to about 4 to 6 inches above the soil line. Leaving a small "handle" of the stem makes it much easier to lift and move the clumps without damaging the fleshy rhizomes.
Key Takeaway: Wait for the first frost to turn the foliage brown before digging. This ensures the rhizome has stored maximum energy for next year.
How to Dig Cannas Carefully
When you are ready to dig, the most important rule is to be gentle. Canna rhizomes are tough, but if you slice them with a shovel, they become more likely to rot in storage.
Choosing Your Tools
A garden fork is often the best tool for this job. The tines of the fork can lift the soil without the broad, sharp edge of a spade. If you only have a shovel, that works too. Just make sure to give the plant plenty of space.
The Lifting Process
Start by digging a circle about 10 to 12 inches away from the base of the plant. This ensures you are clear of the main rhizome mass. Dig straight down and then gently pry upward to loosen the soil. Work your way around the entire plant until the whole clump feels loose.
Once the clump is loose, use your hands or the handle of the fork to lift it out of the hole. Shake the clump gently to remove large chunks of soil. Do not bang the rhizomes against a hard surface to get the dirt off, as this can bruise the "eyes" or growing points.
What to Do Next: Digging Steps
- Cut foliage to 4–6 inches.
- Dig a wide circle around the plant.
- Lift the clump gently from underneath.
- Shake off loose excess soil by hand.
Cleaning and Curing for Success
Once the rhizomes are out of the ground, they need a short "rest" before they go into long-term storage. This process is called curing. Curing allows the outer skin of the rhizome to toughen up, which acts as a natural barrier against mold and drying out.
To Wash or Not to Wash?
There are two schools of thought on cleaning cannas. Some gardeners prefer to wash all the soil off with a garden hose. This makes it easier to see the health of the rhizome and spot any pests. Others prefer to let the soil dry and simply brush it off.
If you choose to wash them, do it gently. Avoid using high-pressure sprayers that could skin the rhizome. If you do wash them, it is even more important to let them dry thoroughly before storing. Any trapped water between the rhizomes can lead to rot.
The Curing Process
Place your cleaned rhizomes in a dry, well-ventilated area. A garage, a shed, or even a covered porch works well, provided the temperatures stay above freezing. Spread them out on a layer of newspaper or a screen so air can circulate around them.
Let the rhizomes dry for about 2 to 7 days. You will notice the exterior feeling a bit firmer and any remaining soil turning into a dry dust that easily falls away. If you have cut any rhizomes during the digging process, curing allows these "wounds" to callous over, which is vital for preventing disease.
Choosing the Best Storage Medium
The goal of winter storage is to keep the rhizome dormant. This means keeping it in a state where it is not growing, but also not dying. To do this, the rhizome needs a tiny bit of moisture so it doesn't shrivel, but enough air so it doesn't rot.
Popular Packing Materials
We recommend using a breathable storage medium to insulate the rhizomes and regulate moisture. Here are the most effective options:
- Peat Moss: This is a classic choice because it holds a small amount of moisture but stays fluffy enough to allow air to reach the rhizomes.
- Vermiculite: This mineral is excellent for moisture control. It is sterile, which helps prevent the spread of fungus.
- Wood Shavings or Sawdust: Avoid fine sawdust, which can pack too tightly. Larger wood shavings (like those used for pet bedding) are great for airflow.
- Newspaper: Simply wrapping each rhizome in a few sheets of newspaper is a low-cost, effective method. The paper absorbs excess moisture while providing a protective layer.
The Container
You can use cardboard boxes, plastic bins, or even paper bags. If you use plastic bins, do not put the lid on tight. Plastic traps moisture, and without airflow, your cannas may rot. Cardboard boxes are often the best choice because the material "breathes" naturally.
Key Takeaway: Curing for a few days and using a breathable storage medium like peat moss or newspaper is the best way to prevent rot.
The Ideal Storage Environment
Location is everything when it comes to overwintering plants. You are looking for a spot that mimics a cave: cool, dark, and slightly humid.
Temperature Ranges
The "sweet spot" for canna storage is between 40°F and 55°F. If the temperature is too warm (above 60°F), the rhizomes might think it is spring and start to sprout prematurely. If the temperature drops below freezing, the water inside the rhizome will turn to ice and destroy the plant cells.
Common locations that work well include:
- Unheated basements
- Attached garages that stay above freezing
- Root cellars
- Cool closets or crawl spaces
Lighting and Airflow
Keep the storage area dark. Light can encourage the rhizomes to wake up too early. Also, ensure there is some air movement in the room. Stagnant air combined with moisture is the primary cause of mold growth during the winter months.
Managing Your Cannas During Winter
Storage is not a "set it and forget it" task. To ensure the highest success rate, you should check on your "sleeping" cannas about once a month. This small effort can save your entire collection if a problem starts.
Checking for Moisture
When you check your rhizomes, look at their condition.
- If they look shriveled or feel light: They are losing too much moisture. Use a spray bottle to lightly mist the packing material (not the rhizome directly). You want it to be barely damp, like a wrung-out sponge.
- If they feel soft or slimy: This is a sign of rot. Rot can spread quickly from one rhizome to another. Remove any soft pieces immediately and discard them. If only a small part of a large clump is soft, you can cut that part away and let the healthy portion air dry before putting it back.
Troubleshooting Success
Don't be discouraged if you lose a few rhizomes over the winter. Even professional growers expect a small percentage of loss. By checking them monthly, you can catch issues early and adjust the moisture or temperature of your storage spot.
What to Do Next: Winter Maintenance
- Set a monthly reminder on your calendar.
- Inspect for soft spots or mold.
- Discard any diseased rhizomes immediately.
- Mist the packing material if it feels bone-dry.
Storing Potted Cannas
If you grow a container-friendly canna in large containers, the process is even easier. You don't necessarily have to dig them out of the soil.
When the first frost hits, cut the foliage down to the soil level just as you would for garden-grown plants. Move the entire pot into a cool, frost-free area like a basement or garage. Stop watering the pot entirely. The soil will dry out, and the cannas will go dormant right in the container.
In the spring, you can move the pot back outside, give it a fresh layer of compost or fertilizer, and start watering again. Every two or three years, you will still need to empty the pot to divide the rhizomes, as they will eventually become "root-bound" and run out of space to grow.
Dividing Rhizomes for More Plants
One of the most exciting parts of growing cannas is how much they multiply. A single rhizome planted in May can easily become a clump of five or six by October. You can divide these clumps either in the fall before you store them or in the spring before you plant them.
How to Divide
Look for the "eyes" on the rhizome. These look like small, rounded bumps or points. These are the spots where the new stems will grow. When you divide a clump, make sure each piece has at least one or two healthy eyes and a good section of the fleshy root.
If you divide in the fall, be sure to let the cut pieces cure for an extra day or two so the cut surfaces can dry and seal. This prevents pathogens from entering the plant while it is in storage.
Preparing for Spring Planting
As the days get longer and the weather warms up, it is time to think about bringing your cannas back into the garden.
Waking Them Up
About 4 to 6 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area, you can bring your boxes out of storage. Check the rhizomes one last time for health. This is a great time to divide them if you didn't do it in the fall.
If you want a head start on the season, you can "pre-start" your cannas indoors. Plant the rhizomes in pots with some moist potting soil and place them in a sunny window or under grow lights. This gives them a few weeks of growth so they are already several inches tall by the time the weather is warm enough to move them outside.
Moving to the Garden
Cannas love warm soil. Wait until the danger of frost has passed and the soil temperature has reached about 60°F. Plant the rhizomes about 4 inches deep with the eyes pointing up. With plenty of sun and water, they will quickly grow into the tropical giants you remember from last year.
"The best way to store canna bulbs is to balance moisture and temperature. By keeping them cool, dark, and slightly protected, you are giving them the perfect environment to recharge for a spectacular summer show."
Conclusion
Storing canna rhizomes is a simple and rewarding way to expand your garden. By following the natural signals of the season and providing a cool, dry place for your plants to rest, you ensure that your landscape remains vibrant year after year. At Longfield Gardens, we believe that gardening is most enjoyable when it is straightforward and successful. Taking these few steps in the fall means you can look forward to another season of lush foliage and tropical blooms without having to start from scratch.
- Wait for the first frost to trigger dormancy.
- Dig carefully to avoid damaging the fleshy rhizomes.
- Cure the rhizomes in a dry area for a few days.
- Store in a breathable medium like peat moss or newspaper.
- Keep the temperature between 40°F and 55°F.
Ready to start your assorted cannas collection? Visit our website to explore our favorite varieties and get everything you need for a stunning garden.
FAQ
Do I have to wash the dirt off canna bulbs before storing them?
It is not strictly necessary to wash them, and many gardeners find that simply shaking off the excess soil works best. If you do choose to wash them to better inspect for pests, make sure they dry completely for several days before you pack them away. Trapped moisture is the biggest cause of rot during winter.
Can I store canna bulbs in a refrigerator?
While a refrigerator is cool and dark, it is usually too cold and too dry for canna rhizomes. Most refrigerators are kept around 35°F to 38°F, which can be stressful for tropical plants. Additionally, the low humidity in a fridge can cause the rhizomes to shrivel quickly. A cool basement or insulated garage is a much better choice.
What should I do if my stored cannas start sprouting in February?
Early sprouting usually means the storage area is too warm or getting too much light. If this happens, try to move them to a slightly cooler spot to slow them down. If they have already grown several inches, you may need to pot them up in soil and keep them near a bright window until it is warm enough to plant them outside.
Is it better to divide cannas in the fall or the spring?
You can do both, but spring is often easier for beginners. In the spring, the "eyes" are beginning to swell and are much easier to see, which helps you make sure each division has a growth point. If you divide in the fall, you must be very careful to let the cuts callous over during the curing process to prevent rot.