# What to Do with Canna Bulbs in Fall
## Introduction
As the late summer garden begins to transition, the vibrant, tropical presence of [cannas](https://www.longfield-gardens.com/collections/canna) often provides one final, spectacular show. These plants are the heavy lifters of the garden, offering lush foliage and bold flowers when other plants might be fading. At Longfield Gardens, we believe that the end of the season is just the beginning of a rewarding cycle. Learning what to do with canna bulbs in fall is a simple way to ensure you can enjoy these stunning plants year after year.
Canna "bulbs" are actually thick, underground stems called rhizomes. While they thrive in the heat of summer, they are sensitive to freezing temperatures. This guide is for any gardener who wants to save their favorite varieties and expand their garden for free. We will cover the best timing for lifting, the right way to clean and cure the rhizomes, and the simple storage methods that keep them healthy until spring. For more basics, see [All About Cannas](https://www.longfield-gardens.com/article/all-about-cannas).
By following a few straightforward steps, you can protect your investment and look forward to an even bigger display next season. Overwintering cannas is a straightforward process that works for both beginners and experienced gardeners alike. If you want a ready-made mix, try our [Canna Assorted Collection](https://www.longfield-gardens.com/products/canna-assorted-collection).
## Timing Your Fall Canna Harvest
The most important factor in saving your canna rhizomes is timing. You want to give the plants as much time as possible to store energy, but you must act before the ground freezes solid. The signal to start usually comes from the weather.
In most regions, the best time to dig up cannas is right after the first light frost. A light frost will turn the lush green or bronze leaves black and limp. While this might look disappointing, it is actually a helpful signal. The cold tells the plant to stop growing and sends the remaining nutrients down into the rhizomes for winter storage.
If you live in an area that does not get frost until very late in the year, you can still dig them up in late autumn. Look for the foliage to naturally start yellowing or slowing down. Aim to have them out of the ground by the time overnight temperatures consistently stay below 40°F.
### Why Wait for the Frost?
Wait for the foliage to die back because this helps the rhizome "cure" while still in the ground. If you dig them up too early while they are still in active growth, the rhizomes may be more prone to shriveling in storage. However, do not wait until the ground is frozen hard. If the soil freezes deep enough to reach the rhizomes, it can turn the plant tissue to mush, making them impossible to save.
> **Key Takeaway:** The first frost is your "green light" to start the harvest. It signals the plant to go dormant and move its energy into the rhizomes for the winter.
## Preparing the Plants for Lifting
Once the frost has nipped the leaves, the first step is to clear away the top growth. Trying to dig up a massive, six-foot-tall canna with all its foliage attached is difficult and unnecessary.
Use a pair of clean garden shears or a sharp spade to cut the stalks down. You should leave about 2 to 4 inches of stem protruding from the soil. These short "stubs" serve two purposes: they act as a handle when you are lifting the clump, and they help you identify where the center of the root mass is located.
Discard the frost-damaged foliage. If the leaves were healthy and free of pests during the summer, they can be added to your compost pile. If you noticed any signs of canna viruses or significant insect damage, it is better to dispose of the foliage in the trash to prevent those issues from returning next year.
## How to Dig Canna Rhizomes Properly
Canna rhizomes grow horizontally and can spread quite far from the original planting spot. By the end of a single summer, one small rhizome can turn into a large, heavy clump. Digging them up requires a bit of space and care to avoid damaging the fleshy "eyes" or growing points.
### Use the Right Tools
A garden fork is often better than a shovel for this job. Shovels have a solid blade that can accidentally slice through a rhizome. The tines of a garden fork allow you to lift the soil and the plant more gently. If you only have a shovel, just be sure to give the plant plenty of "breathing room" by digging further away from the stems.
### Lifting the Clump
1. Start by inserting your fork or shovel into the soil about 10 to 12 inches away from the base of the stems.
2. Circle the plant, loosening the soil all the way around the clump.
3. Once the soil is loose, gently pry the entire mass upward.
4. If the clump is very large and heavy, you may need to lift it in sections, but try to keep the main rhizome mass intact for now.
5. Once the clump is out of the ground, lift it by the stem stubs and gently shake off the loose dirt.
> **What to Do Next:**
> * Cut stalks to 3 inches above the soil line.
> * Clear away any mulch or debris around the base.
> * Use a garden fork to loosen the soil in a wide circle.
> * Lift the entire clump and shake off excess earth.
## Cleaning and Curing the Rhizomes
After lifting the cannas, they need a short period of preparation before they go into storage. This stage is often called "curing." Curing allows the outer skin of the rhizome to toughen up slightly, which helps prevent rot and keeps the moisture inside during the long winter months.
### To Wash or Not to Wash?
There are two schools of thought on cleaning. Some gardeners prefer to wash the rhizomes thoroughly with a hose to remove all soil. This makes it easier to see the growing eyes and check for any soft spots or pests. Other gardeners prefer to simply brush off the dry soil by hand.
If your soil is heavy clay, washing is usually helpful. If you have sandy soil, a quick shake is often enough. If you do choose to wash them, make sure you allow them to dry completely afterward. Moisture trapped in crevices is the leading cause of mold in storage.
### The Drying Process
Find a cool, dry place that is protected from the rain and wind. A garage, a covered porch, or a shed works well. Spread the rhizomes out in a single layer on a piece of cardboard or a newspaper. Do not stack them.
Let them air dry for one to three days. You aren't looking to dry them out completely until they are shriveled—you just want the surface moisture and any remaining soil to be dry to the touch. Once they are dry, you can trim off the long, thin feeder roots and any remaining foliage stubs that have turned brown.
## Dividing for More Plants
One of the best things about cannas is how much they multiply. A single rhizome planted in May can easily become five or six by October. Fall is an excellent time to divide these clumps, though you can also wait until spring.
Dividing in the fall saves space in your storage containers. To divide, look for the "eyes"—these are the small, rounded bumps that will become next year’s stems. Each division needs at least one healthy eye, but two or three per piece is even better.
You can often snap the rhizomes apart by hand at the narrow points where they joined. If they are too tough, use a clean, sharp knife. If you use a knife, let the cut pieces dry for an extra day so the "wound" can callous over. This protective layer is the plant's first line of defense against rot.
## Choosing Your Storage Method
The goal of storage is to keep the rhizomes dormant, cool, and just barely moist. If they get too warm, they will start to grow in the dark. If they get too cold (below freezing), they will die. If they are too wet, they will rot. If they are too dry, they will shrivel up and lose their vitality.
### Storage Containers
You have several options for containers. The key is to ensure there is some air circulation.
* **Plastic Totes:** These are popular, but you must leave the lid slightly ajar or drill air holes in the sides.
* **Cardboard Boxes:** These are excellent because they "breathe" naturally.
* **Paper Bags:** Good for small quantities or individual varieties.
* **Crates or Baskets:** Best for large quantities if you have a humid basement.
### Packing Materials
At Longfield Gardens, we recommend surrounding the rhizomes with a packing medium. This material acts as insulation against temperature swings and helps maintain a consistent moisture level. Popular choices include:
* **Peat Moss:** This is the most common choice. It is naturally acidic, which helps inhibit mold growth.
* **Perlite or Vermiculite:** These are very clean and provide great aeration.
* **Wood Shavings:** The kind sold for pet bedding works perfectly and is very affordable.
* **Shredded Newspaper:** A great budget-friendly option that recycles household waste.
### The Layering Technique
Start by placing a two-inch layer of your chosen packing material in the bottom of your container. Lay the rhizomes on top, making sure they aren't touching each other. Cover them with more material and repeat the layers until the container is full.
> **Key Takeaway:** Canna rhizomes need a "Goldilocks" environment: not too wet, not too dry, and definitely not freezing.
## Where to Store Your Cannas
The location of your storage is just as important as the container. You need a spot that stays consistently between 40°F and 55°F.
* **Unheated Basements:** Usually the best option for most home gardeners. They stay cool and have a bit of natural humidity.
* **Crawl Spaces:** These often have the perfect temperature, provided they stay dry.
* **Attached Garages:** This can work, but you must be careful. If the garage temperature drops below freezing during a cold snap, your cannas may be lost. If you use a garage, keep the boxes off the concrete floor and wrap them in old blankets for extra insulation.
* **Closets:** If you live in an apartment or a house without a basement, a cool closet on an exterior wall might work. Just keep it away from heating vents or appliances.
## Winter Check-ins and Maintenance
"Out of sight, out of mind" can be a risky strategy for stored plants. It is a good idea to check on your canna rhizomes once a month throughout the winter. This takes only a few minutes but can save your entire collection.
### What to Look For
Gently dig through the packing material and inspect a few rhizomes.
* **If they look shriveled or feel light:** The storage medium is too dry. Lightly mist the packing material with water. Do not soak it; a little moisture goes a long way.
* **If you see mold or soft spots:** The environment is too damp. Remove any infected rhizomes immediately so the rot doesn't spread. Leave the container open for a few days to improve air circulation and consider replacing the packing material with fresh, dry media.
* **If they are sprouting:** The storage area is too warm. Move the container to a cooler spot to keep the plants in their dormant state.
## Special Case: Cannas in Containers
If you grow your cannas in large pots, you have a shortcut available. You don't necessarily have to dig them out of the soil. Once the frost has killed the foliage, cut the stems down as you would with garden-grown cannas.
Move the entire pot into a cool, frost-free area like a basement or garage. Stop watering completely. The soil in the pot will act as the storage medium. In the spring, you can pull the clump out of the pot, refresh the soil, divide them if needed, and start watering again to wake them up. This is a very easy way to handle [dwarf canna varieties](https://www.longfield-gardens.com/collections/canna-short) or patio displays.
## Cannas in Warm Climates (Zones 8-10)
If you live in a region where the ground does not freeze, you may not need to dig up your cannas at all. In USDA [zones 8 through 10](https://www.longfield-gardens.com/article/hardiness-zone-map), cannas are generally hardy.
In these warmer zones, "what to do in fall" is much simpler. After the foliage begins to look spent or is hit by a light frost, simply cut the stalks back to the ground. Apply a 3-to-4-inch layer of mulch—such as wood chips, straw, or leaves—over the top of the planting area. This mulch helps regulate soil temperature and protects the rhizomes from the occasional cold snap.
In the spring, when you see new green shoots poking through the mulch, you can pull the extra covering away to let the sun warm the soil. If your cannas become too crowded after a few years in the ground, you can dig and divide them in the spring just as the new growth starts.
## Managing Pests and Diseases in Fall
Fall is the best time to do a "health check" on your plants. While cannas are generally robust, they can occasionally be affected by pests like canna leaf rollers or diseases like canna rust.
As you are cleaning your rhizomes, look for any small holes or tunnels. This could be a sign of borers. If you find a rhizome that is heavily tunneled or feels hollow, it is best to discard it. Similarly, if a rhizome is covered in orange, rusty-looking pustules or has strange, streaky discolourations, it might be infected with a virus.
Healthy rhizomes should feel heavy for their size and firm, like a fresh potato. By only storing the healthiest specimens, you ensure that next year's garden starts off strong and vibrant.
## Preparing for Spring: The End Goal
The work you do in the fall pays off in the spring. By storing your cannas correctly, you'll have a head start on the growing season. About 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date in your area, you can bring your rhizomes out of storage.
Many gardeners like to "wake them up" early by [planting them in pots indoors](https://www.longfield-gardens.com/blogs/spring-planted-bulbs-how-to/summer-bulbs-for-containers). This gives the plants time to develop roots and even a few inches of green growth before they are moved outside. This extra time results in earlier flowers and a longer season of tropical beauty.
If you don't have space to start them indoors, simply wait until the soil is warm (at least 60°F) and there is no danger of frost. Then, plant them directly in the garden.
> **What to Do Next:**
> * Label your containers or bags with the variety name and color.
> * Set a recurring reminder on your phone to check the rhizomes once a month.
> * Research [spring-planted bulbs](https://www.longfield-gardens.com/collections/spring-planted-bulbs) to pair with your overwintered plants for next year.
## Conclusion
Taking care of canna bulbs in the fall is one of the most satisfying tasks in the garden. It marks the transition from the exuberant growth of summer to the quiet rest of winter. By lifting, cleaning, and storing your rhizomes, you are participating in a timeless gardening tradition that saves money and preserves the plants you love. Longfield Gardens stands behind every order with a [100% Quality Guarantee](https://www.longfield-gardens.com/article/about-us-our-guarantee).
At Longfield Gardens, we want every gardener to feel confident in their ability to keep their garden growing year after year. Whether you have a single pot on a balcony or a massive border of [tall, tropical cannas](https://www.longfield-gardens.com/collections/canna-tall), the process remains the same: wait for the frost, dig with care, and keep them cool and dry.
* **Timing is key:** Wait for the first frost to signal dormancy.
* **Be gentle:** Use a garden fork to avoid damaging the rhizomes.
* **Cure before storing:** Let them dry for a few days to prevent rot.
* **Check monthly:** A quick inspection ensures they stay healthy all winter.
> Overwintering your cannas is a simple investment of time that yields a spectacular return of color and height in your landscape every single summer.
We invite you to explore our selection of [summer-blooming bulbs](https://www.longfield-gardens.com/collections/shop-all-spring-planted-summer-blooming-bulbs) and planning guides to make your next garden the most beautiful one yet.
## FAQ
### When is the latest I can dig up my canna bulbs?
You should aim to dig up your canna rhizomes shortly after the first light frost kills the foliage. While the rhizomes can handle a little cold soil, you must get them out before the ground freezes solid. If the frost hasn't arrived by late November, it's usually safe to go ahead and dig them up anyway to ensure they are stored before the deep winter cold sets in. For order timing details, see our [Shipping Information](https://www.longfield-gardens.com/pages/shipping-information).
### Do I have to wash the dirt off the rhizomes?
Washing is optional but can be very helpful if you have heavy or wet soil. Removing the dirt allows you to inspect the rhizomes for rot, pests, or disease more clearly. If you do choose to wash them, it is critical that you allow them to air dry completely in a protected area for a few days before packing them away for the winter.
### Can I store canna rhizomes in the refrigerator?
While a refrigerator provides the right temperature range (40-45°F), it is generally not recommended for canna storage. Refrigerators are designed to remove moisture, which can cause the rhizomes to shrivel and die very quickly. Additionally, some fruits and vegetables release ethylene gas, which can damage the dormant "eyes" of the rhizome. A cool basement or garage is a much better environment.
### Why did my stored canna bulbs turn to mush last winter?
The most common reason for rhizomes turning to mush is rot caused by too much moisture. This can happen if the rhizomes were not dried properly before storage, if the storage container didn't have enough air circulation, or if the packing material became damp. Another cause is freezing; if the storage location dropped below 32°F, the plant cells would have ruptured, leading to a mushy texture once they thawed.
