Introduction
Watching your first dahlia blooms unfurl in mid-summer is one of the most rewarding moments for any gardener. These spectacular flowers, with their intricate petal patterns and vibrant colors, often become the centerpiece of the backyard landscape. Because we want to enjoy these same beautiful blooms year after year, many gardeners look for the best ways to keep their tubers safe during the cold winter months. At Longfield Gardens, we know that successful overwintering is one of the most common questions for dahlia lovers, especially for those in northern climates where the ground freezes.
Storing your dahlia tubers in newspaper is a classic, time-tested method that remains popular for its simplicity and effectiveness. It is a budget-friendly approach that uses materials most of us already have at home. This guide will walk you through exactly how to use newspaper to protect your tubers, ensuring they stay healthy and hydrated until it is time to plant again in the spring. We will cover everything from the initial dig to the final storage environment so you can feel confident in your gardening success.
Using newspaper is more than just a convenience; it provides a breathable barrier that helps regulate moisture and prevents the spread of rot. Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned grower, mastering this technique is a great way to expand your dahlia collection without starting from scratch every year. This post is designed to take the guesswork out of winter storage and provide you with a clear, step-by-step path to vibrant spring growth.
The Simple Answer: Yes, You Can Use Newspaper
The short answer is a resounding yes—newspaper is an excellent medium for storing dahlia tubers. Many experienced growers prefer it because it offers a perfect balance of protection and breathability. Unlike plastic bags, which can sometimes trap too much moisture and lead to fungal issues, newspaper allows for a tiny bit of air exchange while still insulating the tubers against dry air.
One of the greatest benefits of using newspaper is its ability to act as a "firewall" between tubers. If you wrap each tuber individually, you create a physical barrier. If one tuber happens to develop a spot of rot during the winter, the newspaper helps prevent that moisture and decay from spreading to its neighbors. This significantly increases the survival rate of your entire collection.
Newspaper is also highly absorbent. If there is a slight fluctuation in humidity in your storage area, the paper can absorb excess moisture or release a small amount of humidity back toward the tuber. This keeps the tubers "plump" rather than shriveled. It is an easy win for any gardener looking for a high-trust, low-cost storage solution.
Key Takeaway Newspaper is a highly effective storage medium because it is breathable, absorbent, and provides a protective barrier that prevents rot from spreading between tubers.
Preparing Your Dahlias for Winter Sleep
Success in storage actually begins before the tubers ever leave the ground. To ensure your tubers have the best chance of survival, they need to be fully mature. This maturity happens late in the season, usually triggered by the changing light and cooling temperatures of autumn. At Longfield Gardens, we recommend letting your plants grow until the first light frost hits your area.
Waiting for the "Killing Frost"
Dahlias are tender perennials, meaning they love the heat and are very sensitive to freezing temperatures. A "killing frost" is when the temperatures drop low enough to turn the green foliage of the dahlia black or dark brown. This might look a little sad at first, but it is actually a vital signal to the plant. When the top growth dies back, the plant shifts all its remaining energy into the tubers below the ground, essentially "packing its bags" for winter.
If you live in an area where frost comes very late, you can manually trigger this process by cutting the plants back in late October or early November. However, waiting for nature to take its course usually results in tougher, more resilient tubers. Once the foliage has turned black, cut the stems down to about 4 to 6 inches above the soil line.
The Curing Period
After cutting back the stems, many gardeners find success by leaving the tubers in the ground for another 5 to 7 days. This short wait time is often called "curing." During this week, the "eyes" (the small bumps where next year's stems will grow) become more prominent and easier to see. The outer skin of the tuber also toughens up slightly, which makes it less likely to be damaged during the digging process.
Just be sure to keep an eye on the weather. You want to get the tubers out of the ground before the soil itself freezes hard. If a deep, multi-day freeze is in the forecast, it is better to dig them up a little early than to risk them turning to mush in the frozen earth.
How to Dig Tubers Without Damage
When you are ready to dig, the goal is to lift the entire clump without piercing the tubers or snapping the "necks." The neck is the thin part where the tuber connects to the main stem, and it is where the growth eyes are located. If the neck breaks, the tuber usually won't be able to grow next year.
- Use the right tool: A garden fork or pitchfork is generally better than a shovel. A shovel can easily slice through a hidden tuber, while a fork is more likely to slide around them.
- Keep your distance: Start digging about 12 inches away from the main stem. This gives the tuber clump plenty of room so you don't accidentally strike it.
- Lift gently: Loosen the soil all the way around the plant before trying to lift. Once the soil is loose, gently pry the clump upward.
- The "Stem Handle": You can use the short stem you left behind as a handle to help guide the clump out, but never yank it. If it feels stuck, loosen the soil a bit more.
Once the clump is out of the ground, gently shake off the loose dirt. It is often helpful to turn the clump upside down for an hour or two. This allows any water trapped inside the hollow stems to drain out, which is a simple step that prevents crown rot later on.
Cleaning and Drying Your Tubers
Before you reach for the newspaper, the tubers need to be clean and, most importantly, dry to the touch. There are two main schools of thought on cleaning: the "dry brush" method and the "wash" method. Both work well, and the best choice often depends on your soil type.
The Wash Method
If you have heavy clay soil, it often sticks to the tubers in large clumps. In this case, using a garden hose to gently wash the dirt away is the easiest path. It allows you to see the eyes clearly and ensures no soil-borne pests or fungi are tucked into the crevices. If you wash your tubers, you must allow them to dry completely—usually 24 to 48 hours in a cool, shaded, frost-free area like a garage or basement.
The Dry Brush Method
If you have sandy or loose soil, you might not need water at all. Simply let the clumps dry for a few hours, and then use your hands or a soft brush to whisk away the dirt. This method is faster and reduces the risk of introducing too much moisture into the storage container.
Regardless of how you clean them, ensure the "skin" of the tuber feels dry like a potato before you wrap it. If you wrap a soaking wet tuber in newspaper, the paper will become a soggy mess, and the tuber will likely rot.
What to Do Next
- Cut the blackened stems to 4-6 inches.
- Wait 5-7 days for the tubers to cure in the ground.
- Gently lift the clump with a garden fork, starting 12 inches away from the center.
- Clean the tubers of excess soil and allow them to dry for 24-48 hours until they are dry to the touch.
The Newspaper Wrapping Technique
Now we get to the core of the process. There are two ways to use newspaper: wrapping individual tubers or wrapping entire clumps. Most home gardeners find that wrapping individual tubers is the safest bet for long-term success.
Storing Individual Tubers
If you have divided your dahlia clumps into individual tubers, this is the gold standard for newspaper storage.
- Select your paper: Use standard black-and-white newsprint. Avoid the glossy, colorful advertisements or magazine pages, as these don't breathe or absorb moisture as well.
- The Wrap: Take a single sheet of newspaper and place the tuber in the corner. Roll it up, tucking in the sides as you go, much like you would wrap a fragile glass ornament.
- Labeling: This is a vital step! Use a permanent marker to write the variety name directly on the outside of the newspaper bundle. It is very easy to forget which tuber is which by March.
- Packing: Place the wrapped bundles into a cardboard box or a plastic bin with the lid left slightly ajar. Don't pack them too tightly; leave a little bit of "breathing room" between the bundles.
Storing Whole Clumps
If you prefer not to divide your dahlias until spring, you can still use newspaper.
- Large Sheets: Use several layers of newspaper to wrap the entire clump. Ensure the hollow stem is also covered or filled loosely with a bit of crumpled paper to prevent moisture from entering the crown.
- Cushioning: Place a layer of crumpled newspaper at the bottom of a cardboard box. Set the wrapped clumps on top, then fill the gaps with more crumpled paper. This provides insulation and keeps the clumps from shifting.
Finding the "Goldilocks" Storage Spot
The success of your newspaper-wrapped dahlias depends heavily on where you put them. Dahlias need a spot that is cool and dark, but not freezing. We call this the "Goldilocks Zone"—not too hot, not too cold.
The ideal temperature range is between 40°F and 50°F. If the temperature stays consistently in this range, the tubers will remain dormant. If it gets much warmer, the tubers might think it is spring and start to sprout prematurely, wasting their stored energy. If the temperature drops below 32°F, the water inside the tubers will freeze, expanding and destroying the cell walls. When they thaw, they will be soft and useless.
Good storage locations include:
- An unheated basement or cellar.
- A crawlspace that stays above freezing.
- An insulated garage (but be careful of the floor, which can get very cold).
- A cool closet in a mudroom.
Avoid placing your storage boxes directly on concrete floors, as concrete can pull moisture out of the boxes or transmit freezing temperatures. Placing the box on a wooden pallet, a shelf, or even a few extra layers of cardboard is a simple way to protect them.
Monthly Maintenance: The "Peek and Check"
One mistake many gardeners make is "setting and forgetting" their tubers in November and not looking at them again until April. Even with the best preparation, a few tubers might struggle. We recommend checking your newspaper-wrapped dahlias once a month.
When you do your monthly check, you are looking for two things: rot and shriveling.
- Checking for Rot: Pick up a few bundles. If the newspaper feels damp or smells "earthy" or sour, unwrap it. If the tuber is soft or mushy, throw it away immediately. This is where the newspaper shines—it usually prevents that one bad tuber from ruining the ones next to it.
- Checking for Shriveling: If the tubers feel extremely light or look like a wrinkled raisin, they are getting too dry. This can happen if your storage area has very low humidity. If this occurs, you can lightly mist the newspaper with a spray bottle. You don't want it wet—just slightly "damp-ish" to provide a hint of humidity.
If most of your tubers look plump and the newspaper feels dry and clean, you are doing a great job! Wrap them back up and let them continue their winter nap.
Comparing Newspaper to Other Methods
While newspaper is fantastic, it is helpful to know how it compares to other common storage materials like vermiculite, wood shavings, or plastic wrap.
- Vermiculite or Peat Moss: These are excellent for regulating moisture but can be messy and more expensive. They are often used in plastic bins. Newspaper is much cleaner and essentially free if you have a recycling bin nearby.
- Wood Shavings: Often sold as pet bedding, these provide great insulation. However, they can sometimes "wick" too much moisture away from the tuber, leading to shriveling. Newspaper tends to hold onto a bit more of that internal tuber moisture.
- Plastic Wrap: Some gardeners wrap individual tubers tightly in plastic kitchen wrap. This is very effective at preventing shriveling because it seals the moisture in. However, if the tuber isn't perfectly dry when wrapped, it can rot very quickly. Newspaper is much more forgiving for beginners because it "breathes."
Many growers find that a combination works best. For example, you might wrap your tubers in newspaper and then place those bundles into a plastic bin with the lid cracked open. This gives you the moisture-balancing benefits of the paper with the extra protection of the bin.
Understanding Zones and Timing
When you order your dahlias from us, we make sure they arrive at the right time for planting in your specific area. Our shipping schedule is based on USDA hardiness zones, which helps ensure that your new tubers aren't sitting in a cold mailbox during a freeze. We typically ship about two weeks before the ideal planting time for your region.
Dahlias are generally hardy in zones 8 through 11. In these warmer areas, some gardeners can leave their tubers in the ground all year, provided the soil drains well and doesn't stay soggy during the winter. However, for most of the United States (zones 3 through 7), digging and storing in newspaper is a necessary and rewarding part of the yearly garden cycle.
Please note that due to local agricultural restrictions, we do not ship any bulbs—including dahlias—to Hawaii, Alaska, or international locations. We also do not ship allium bulbs to Idaho. For the 48 contiguous states, we provide tracking information as soon as your order is picked up by the carrier, so you can be ready for their arrival.
Spring Awakening: Moving from Paper to Pot
As the days get longer and the ground starts to warm, it is time to wake up your dahlias. In most areas, this happens in late April or May, once the danger of frost has passed and the soil temperature reaches about 60°F.
When you unwrap your tubers from their newspaper bundles, you might already see small green or pink "eyes" starting to sprout. This is an exciting sign! If you haven't divided your clumps yet, spring is the perfect time to do it. The eyes are much easier to see now than they were in the fall.
If you want an early start on the season, you can "pre-start" your tubers indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost. Simply place the tubers in pots with a little bit of moist potting soil and keep them in a warm, sunny window. By the time the weather is nice enough to plant outside, you will have a head start with healthy green shoots. If you prefer to keep it simple, you can plant dahlias directly in the garden. Just remember the "Simple Gardening Rule": wait for the soil to be warm. Planting too early into cold, wet soil is the most common reason for tuber failure.
Key Takeaway In spring, unwrap your tubers and look for "eyes." You can plant them directly in the garden once the soil is 60°F or start them in pots indoors for earlier blooms.
Conclusion
Storing dahlia tubers in newspaper is a practical, effective, and rewarding way to preserve your favorite garden varieties. By following the simple steps of waiting for the frost, curing the tubers, and wrapping them individually, you can significantly increase your success rate. This method respects the plant's need for a breathable, stable environment and gives you a simple way to monitor their health throughout the winter.
At Longfield Gardens, we want every gardener to experience the joy of seeing their dahlias return bigger and better each year. While it takes a little bit of effort in the fall, the reward is a garden filled with spectacular color and armloads of fresh-cut flowers all summer long. Remember to be patient, keep your storage spot cool, and check your bundles once a month.
- Wait for the first frost to signal the plant to go dormant.
- Clean and dry your tubers thoroughly before wrapping.
- Use individual newspaper wraps to prevent the spread of rot.
- Store in a cool, frost-free location between 40°F and 50°F.
Ready to add new colors to your collection? Explore our selection of premium dahlia tubers and start planning your most beautiful garden yet!
FAQ
Can I use glossy magazine paper instead of newspaper?
It is best to avoid glossy or highly coated paper. These materials don't absorb moisture or allow for air exchange as well as standard newsprint. Stick to the traditional black-and-white newspaper for the best results, as it provides the perfect balance of breathability and insulation.
What should I do if the newspaper feels wet during a monthly check?
If the newspaper is damp, unwrap the tuber immediately and inspect it for soft spots or signs of rot. If the tuber is still firm and healthy, let it air dry for a few hours, then re-wrap it in fresh, dry newspaper. If the tuber is mushy or smells bad, it should be discarded to protect the rest of your collection.
Do I need to use fungicide before wrapping tubers in newspaper?
While some gardeners use a light dusting of fungicidal powder or a quick dip in a diluted bleach solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water), it isn't strictly necessary if your tubers are clean and dry. Many home gardeners have great success simply ensuring the tubers are dry to the touch before wrapping them in clean newspaper.
How do I know if my storage area is too cold?
The best way to be sure is to use a simple indoor/outdoor thermometer that records minimum and maximum temperatures. If you see the temperature dropping below 35°F, you may need to add more insulation to your boxes or move them to a slightly warmer spot, such as an interior wall or a basement shelf. Avoid letting them sit on cold concrete floors.
