Introduction
Growing dahlias is one of the most rewarding experiences a gardener can have. These spectacular bloomers offer an incredible variety of colors and shapes, often providing armloads of flowers from midsummer until the first frost. Because dahlias are tropical plants at heart, they require a little bit of extra care in colder climates to ensure they return year after year. If you're shopping for the most dramatic forms, browse our dinnerplate dahlias.
At Longfield Gardens, we believe that the end-of-season transition should be just as enjoyable as the first planting. Learning how to pull up dahlia tubers is a simple, satisfying task that signals the successful completion of a beautiful growing season. By taking a few practical steps to lift and store these tubers, you protect your investment and look forward to even bigger, better blooms next summer.
This guide will walk you through the entire process, from recognizing the right time to dig to the best techniques for cleaning and curing your tubers. Whether you are a first-time dahlia grower or looking to refine your technique, we are here to help you navigate this seasonal transition with confidence. Lifting your dahlias is not a chore, but rather the bridge between this year's garden and the next.
Timing Your Harvest: When to Pull Up Dahlia Tubers
The most important part of pulling up dahlia tubers is knowing when to start. For gardeners in most parts of the United States, this timing is dictated by the weather. Dahlias are native to Mexico and are not built to survive freezing soil. However, the cooling temperatures of autumn actually play a vital role in the tuber's lifecycle.
The ideal signal to begin the harvest is the first "killing frost." You will know it has happened when the lush, green foliage of your dahlias turns black or dark brown overnight. While it might look a little sad at first, this is actually a helpful part of the process. This frost tells the plant to stop sending energy to the leaves and flowers and instead focus all its resources on the tubers underground.
If you live in a region where a killing frost does not occur until very late in the year, you should aim to pull up your tubers by mid-November. By this point, the plants have usually had enough time to mature their tubers for storage. Leaving the tubers in the ground for a short period—about one to two weeks—after the foliage dies back is often recommended. This brief waiting period allows the "eyes" on the tubers to become more visible and helps the outer skin of the tuber to toughen up, which makes them easier to store.
Understanding Your Local Conditions
While the frost is the most common guide, your specific soil and moisture levels also matter. If your autumn has been exceptionally rainy, you may want to dig your tubers a bit earlier to prevent them from sitting in soggy soil. Tubers that stay too wet for too long can become prone to rot.
If you're not sure which USDA zone you live in, check our Hardiness Zone Map. On the other hand, if you are in a very warm zone where the ground never freezes, you might choose to leave your dahlias in the ground. However, even in warm climates, many gardeners prefer to pull them up every few years to divide the clumps and refresh the soil. This ensures the plants do not become overcrowded and continue to produce those large, vibrant flowers we all love.
Key Takeaway: The best time to lift dahlia tubers is about one to two weeks after the first killing frost has turned the foliage brown. This allows the tubers to mature and the eyes to become visible.
Preparing the Plants for Lifting
Before you actually reach for your garden fork, there are a few preparatory steps that make the process much smoother. Success in the garden often comes down to preparation, and dahlias are no exception.
The first step is to cut back the foliage. Using a sharp pair of pruners or loppers, cut the main stems of the dahlia plants down so that only about four to six inches remains above the soil line. This remaining stem acts as a "handle" for the tuber clump, but more importantly, it helps you keep track of where the center of the plant is while you are digging.
When cutting, keep a bucket of a simple disinfectant—like a mild bleach solution or rubbing alcohol—nearby to dip your tools in between plants. This is a great habit to get into because it prevents the accidental spread of any soil-borne diseases from one plant to another.
Labeling Your Varieties
If you grow several different types of dahlias, such as the massive Cafe au Lait or the bright Kelvin Floodlight, labeling is your best friend. Once the flowers are gone and the foliage is brown, it is impossible to tell one variety from another just by looking at the tubers.
The same is true for Kelvin Floodlight, so a clear tag at the digging stage saves a lot of guesswork in the spring. As you cut back each plant, attach a waterproof tag to the remaining stem or place a label directly into the soil next to it. Some gardeners use surveyor's tape or even write directly on the tuber later, but having a clear tag at the digging stage saves a lot of guesswork in the spring.
Gathering Your Tools
To pull up dahlia tubers correctly, you only need a few basic tools:
- A garden fork (pitchfork): This is much better than a shovel because the tines allow soil to fall through while minimizing the risk of accidentally slicing through a tuber.
- Pruners or loppers: For cutting back the heavy stems.
- A garden hose: To wash away excess soil.
- Crates or mesh bags: For temporary holding and drying.
The Correct Technique for Pulling Up Tubers
Now that the plants are cut back and labeled, it is time to lift them. This is the stage where a little bit of patience goes a long way. Dahlia tubers are connected to the main stem by a very narrow, fragile area called the "neck." If this neck breaks, the tuber usually won't be able to grow a new plant next year, as that is where the growth "eyes" are located.
For a visual walkthrough, see our How to Lift and Store Dahlia Bulbs.
Digging the Circle
Start by standing about 12 inches away from the main stem. It is a common mistake to dig too close to the plant, which often results in chopped tubers. By starting a foot away, you ensure that you stay outside the main clump.
Insert your garden fork deep into the soil. Gently rock it back and forth to loosen the earth. Move around the plant in a circle, Repeating this process every few inches. You are essentially "unplugging" the clump from the surrounding soil.
Lifting the Clump
Once you have circled the plant and the soil feels loose, slide your fork under the clump at an angle. Use the handle of the fork as a lever to pry the clump upward while gently grasping the stem handle with your other hand.
Do not use the stem to yank the plant out of the ground. Instead, let the fork do the heavy lifting. As the clump rises, you will feel the feeder roots—the thin, hair-like roots—start to give way. This is perfectly normal. Once the clump is free, lift it out and gently shake it to remove large clods of soil.
What to Do Next
- Check for labels: Ensure the tag is still firmly attached to the stem handle.
- Initial cleaning: Use your hands or a small stick to poke away large chunks of dirt from between the tubers.
- Immediate inspection: Look for any tubers that were accidentally sliced during the digging process. These can be trimmed off immediately.
Key Takeaway: Always dig a wide circle around the dahlia plant—at least 12 inches out—and use a garden fork to pry the clump up. Never pull forcefully on the stem, as the necks of the tubers are very fragile.
Cleaning and Rinsing Your Tubers
Once the tubers are out of the ground, they will likely be covered in garden soil. While some gardeners prefer to store them with the soil on, most experts at Longfield Gardens recommend washing them. Cleaning the tubers makes it much easier to inspect them for health and to find the eyes if you plan on dividing them.
For more on tuber anatomy, see Dahlia Tubers: What You Need to Know.
The Washing Process
Using a garden hose with a gentle spray nozzle, rinse the soil off the clumps. You don't need a high-pressure blast; a steady stream is enough to melt the dirt away. Be sure to get into the center of the clump, as soil often gets trapped between the individual tubers.
If you are working on a lawn or a driveway, you can place the tubers on a screen or a piece of hardware cloth held up by sawhorses. This allows the water and mud to fall straight through, keeping your workspace clean.
Trimming the "Mother Tuber" and Roots
As you clean the clump, you will notice one tuber that looks a bit different—usually darker, more wrinkled, or larger than the others. This is the "mother tuber," the one you originally planted in the spring.
Many gardeners choose to remove the mother tuber at this stage because it is more prone to rotting over the winter and has already done its job of fueling the plant. You can also trim away the long, stringy feeder roots. Use clean snips to tidy up the clump so that you are left with just the healthy, firm, new tubers.
The Curing Phase: Drying for Success
You should never move freshly washed tubers directly into a sealed storage container. They need time to "cure." Curing is simply a fancy word for letting the tubers dry out so that the outer skin can toughen up. This layer of "cured" skin acts as a barrier against rot and prevents the tuber from losing too much moisture during the winter.
Where to Cure Tubers
Find a spot that is out of direct sunlight and protected from frost. A garage, a shed, or a covered porch works perfectly. Place the tubers upside down (with the stems pointing toward the ground) on a layer of newspaper, cardboard, or in mesh crates. Turning them upside down allows any water trapped inside the hollow stems to drain out.
How Long to Wait
The curing process usually takes between three days and a week, depending on the humidity and airflow in your drying area. You will know they are ready when the skins feel dry to the touch and any remaining bits of soil have turned into a dry dust that easily brushes off.
During this time, keep an eye on the weather forecast. If a hard freeze is predicted, move your curing tubers into a more protected area. Even though they are out of the ground, they are still very sensitive to freezing temperatures.
Key Takeaway: Cure your tubers by letting them dry upside down in a frost-free, shady area for 3 to 7 days. This toughens the skin and ensures they are ready for long-term storage.
Deciding Whether to Divide Now or Later
One of the most common questions we hear is whether to divide the dahlia clumps immediately after pulling them up or to wait until the spring. The truth is, both methods work well, and the right choice depends on your schedule and comfort level.
Dividing in the Fall
Some gardeners prefer to divide their tubers in the fall while the clumps are still relatively soft. It is often easier to cut through the plant tissue now than it is after several months of storage. Additionally, divided tubers take up much less space than whole clumps.
If you choose to divide now, look for the "eyes." These are small bumps, similar to the eyes on a potato, located on the crown of the tuber where it meets the stem. Every division must have at least one eye to grow. If you cannot see the eyes clearly, it is better to wait.
Dividing in the Spring
Waiting until spring is a great option for beginners. After a winter in storage, the eyes often begin to swell or even sprout slightly, making them much easier to identify. At our trial gardens, we often find that keeping the clumps whole over the winter provides a little extra insurance against dehydration.
If you decide to store them whole, you can simply tuck the entire clump into its storage medium and handle the dividing when the weather warms up and you are ready to plant.
Creating the Ideal Storage Environment
Once your dahlia tubers are pulled up, cleaned, and cured, they need a safe place to sleep for the winter. The goal is to keep them in a "Goldilocks" environment: not too cold, not too warm, not too wet, and not too dry.
The Best Temperature
Dahlias prefer a consistent temperature between 40°F and 50°F. An unheated basement, a crawl space, or a cool closet in a mudroom often fits the bill. If the temperature drops below freezing, the tubers will turn to mush. If it stays above 60°F, they may begin to sprout prematurely or shrivel up from dehydration.
Storage Containers and Media
To keep the tubers from drying out completely, most gardeners pack them in a moisture-regulating material. Popular choices include:
- Peat moss: Excellent for holding just enough moisture.
- Vermiculite: A sterile mineral that provides great insulation.
- Pine shavings: Often sold as pet bedding, these are inexpensive and effective.
- Newspaper: Wrapping individual tubers in several layers of newspaper can also work well.
Place a layer of your chosen material in the bottom of a cardboard box, a plastic bin (with the lid slightly ajar for airflow), or a paper bag. Arrange the tubers so they aren't crowded, then cover them with more material.
Winter Check-ups
It is a good idea to check on your tubers once a month. If you notice any soft spots or signs of rot, remove those tubers immediately so the rot doesn't spread. If the tubers look very shriveled and dry, you can give the storage material a very light misting of water to add a touch of humidity.
Common Myths About Pulling Up Dahlias
When searching for advice on how to pull up dahlia tubers, you might encounter some confusing "hacks." Let's clear up a few common misconceptions with straightforward facts.
Myth: You must wax the ends of the tubers. While some gardeners use paraffin wax to seal the cut ends of tubers, it isn't necessary for success. Proper curing—allowing the skin to dry naturally—is usually sufficient to protect the tuber.
Myth: You should leave the soil on to protect them. While some people have success with this, leaving soil on can hide pests or fungal issues. Cleaning them allows for a better inspection and a cleaner storage area.
Myth: If a tuber doesn't have a neck, it's fine. Actually, the neck and the crown are vital. A tuber that has broken off without a piece of the crown (where the eyes are) will not produce a plant. It might grow roots if planted, but it will never produce a sprout.
Conclusion
Pulling up dahlia tubers is a rewarding final chapter in the gardening year. It is a simple process that ensures your favorite varieties return to bring beauty and joy to your yard next season. By waiting for the frost, digging carefully with a fork, and allowing the tubers to cure before storing them in a cool, dark place, you are following the same reliable steps we use at Longfield Gardens to maintain our healthy stock.
Gardening is about the cycle of the seasons, and the act of tucking your tubers away for winter is a great way to stay connected to your garden even when the ground is frozen. With these practical steps, you can look forward to a spectacular display of dahlias every summer.
- Wait for the first frost to signal dormancy before digging.
- Dig a wide circle around the plant to avoid damaging the tubers.
- Clean and cure the tubers for several days to toughen their skins.
- Store in a cool, dark place (40-50°F) in a medium like peat moss or vermiculite.
Pulling up dahlia tubers isn't just about protection; it's about preparation for the future. Every tuber you save today is a bloom you'll enjoy tomorrow.
We invite you to explore our dahlia collection and other spring-planted bulbs at Longfield Gardens to find the perfect additions for your next garden season.
If you want a ready-made mix, browse the Dahlia Assorted Sunlit Jewel Collection.
For a bold, season-long color blend, try the Dahlia Dinnerplate High Summer Mix.
Longfield Gardens backs its plants with a 100% Quality Guarantee.
For shipping timing and zone-based delivery, see our Shipping Information.
FAQ
Do I have to wait for a frost before pulling up dahlia tubers?
While waiting for a frost is the best way to ensure the tubers have fully matured and the plant has entered dormancy, it is not strictly required. If you live in an area with a very late frost, you can cut the plants back and dig them in mid-November. The most important thing is that the plant has had about 120 to 150 days of growth to develop healthy tubers. For another color-rich option, see the Dahlia Dinnerplate Summer Lovin Collection.
Can I use a regular shovel to dig up my dahlias?
You can use a shovel, but a garden fork (pitchfork) is much safer for the tubers. The tines of a fork are less likely to slice through the tubers than the solid blade of a spade. If you do use a shovel, be extra careful to start your digging at least 12 inches away from the stem to give the clump plenty of room.
What should I do if I accidentally break a tuber while digging?
If a tuber breaks off but still has a piece of the crown (the area where it connects to the main stem) and an eye, it can still be viable. However, if a tuber breaks in the middle or loses its neck entirely, it will not be able to grow a new plant. You can simply compost any broken pieces that lack an eye and focus on the healthy, intact tubers.
How dry should the tubers be before I put them into storage?
The tubers should be dry to the touch, and the outer skin should feel slightly leathery or "cured." This usually takes 3 to 7 days of air-drying. You don't want them to be so dry that they become shriveled and hard, but you also don't want any visible moisture or damp soil on them, as this can lead to rot during the winter months.
