Introduction
One of the greatest joys of summer gardening is watching your begonias burst into a riot of color. Whether they are spilling out of hanging baskets or lining your garden paths, their lush foliage and vibrant blooms are hard to say goodbye to when the air turns crisp. At Longfield Gardens, we believe that the beauty of your garden doesn't have to end with the first frost. Many gardeners find it incredibly rewarding to bring these tropical beauties inside, extending their life and saving money for next season.
You might be surprised to learn how simple it is to keep these plants alive through the colder months. Because begonias are tropical perennials, they aren't equipped to handle freezing temperatures, but they are perfectly happy to spend the winter in your home. This guide is designed for home gardeners who want to preserve their favorite varieties and enjoy a head start on next year's garden.
Learning how to winter begonias is a great way to deepen your connection with your plants. By following a few straightforward steps, you can ensure your begonias survive the winter and return even stronger in the spring. Wintering begonias indoors is a practical, effective, and enjoyable way to maintain your garden's beauty year-round.
Identifying Your Begonia Type
Before you start bringing plants inside, you must identify which type of begonia you are growing. While there are thousands of species, most home gardeners grow one of four main types. The method we use to save them depends entirely on how they grow and whether they require a period of rest. For a broader overview of begonia types and care, see our All About Begonias guide.
Tuberous Begonias
These are often the stars of the shade garden. They produce large, spectacular flowers that look like roses or camellias. Tuberous begonias grow from a thick, potato-like root called a tuber. In the winter, these plants naturally want to go dormant. This means they will lose their leaves and "sleep" until the weather warms up again. Common varieties we offer, such as the Non Stop Mix or Illumination series, fall into this category.
Wax Begonias (Bedding Begonias)
Wax begonias are compact plants often used in garden beds or borders. They have shiny, succulent-like leaves that come in shades of green or bronze and produce clusters of small red, white, or pink flowers. These are fibrous-rooted plants, meaning they have a standard root system rather than a tuber. They do not go dormant and can be kept as active houseplants all winter long.
Cane Begonias (Angel Wing)
Cane begonias are named for their tall, bamboo-like stems. Many people call them "Angel Wing" begonias because of their long, pointed leaves, which are often decorated with silver spots. Like wax begonias, these are fibrous-rooted and will continue to grow indoors if they have enough light.
Rex Begonias
Rex begonias are grown primarily for their incredible foliage. Their leaves feature swirling patterns of silver, purple, pink, and burgundy. While they can be a bit more sensitive to humidity than other types, they are popular houseplants that do not require a dormancy period.
Key Takeaway: The first step to success is knowing your plant. Tuberous begonias need a "nap" in a cool, dark place, while Wax, Cane, and Rex begonias prefer to live on your windowsill as houseplants.
Wintering Tuberous Begonias: The Dormancy Method
If you have tuberous begonias, trying to keep them growing all winter is often a losing battle. These plants are biologically programmed to rest. Forcing them to stay green can weaken the tuber. Instead, we recommend following the "lift and store" method.
When to Lift the Tubers
The best time to start this process is after the first light frost of autumn. A light frost will blacken the foliage but won't harm the tuber buried in the soil. This serves as a "wake-up call" to the plant that it is time to go to sleep. If you live in an area where frost is rare, simply wait until the leaves begin to yellow and the plant looks like it is winding down in late October or November.
Digging and Curing
Carefully lift the tubers from the ground or your containers using a garden fork or a small trowel. Be gentle; you don't want to nick or bruise the tuber, as wounds can lead to rot. Once they are out of the soil, shake off the excess dirt and cut the stems back to about one or two inches above the tuber.
The next step is "curing." Curing means letting the tubers dry out so the outer skin can toughen up. Place the tubers in a warm, dry, and airy spot out of direct sunlight. A garage or a shed works well. Let them sit for about two weeks. During this time, the remaining stem stub will usually dry up and fall off naturally.
Storing for the Winter
Once cured, your tubers are ready for their long winter nap. We recommend storing them in a way that prevents them from drying out completely while also ensuring they stay dry enough to avoid mold.
- Packing Material: Place the tubers in a cardboard box or a paper bag filled with peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust. This material acts as insulation.
- Spacing: Make sure the tubers are not touching each other. If one tuber happens to rot, you don't want the moisture to spread to its neighbors.
- Location: Store the box in a cool, dark, and dry place. The ideal temperature is between 40°F and 50°F. An unheated basement or a cool closet is usually perfect.
What to Do Next: Tuber Storage Checklist
- Wait for the first light frost to trigger dormancy.
- Lift tubers carefully and trim stems to 1 inch.
- Cure in a dry spot for two weeks.
- Pack in peat moss or vermiculite.
- Store in a cool, dark place (40–50°F).
Wintering Wax and Cane Begonias as Houseplants
For wax, cane, and Rex begonias, the goal is to keep the plant active. These varieties don't have a dormant phase, so they can provide a splash of green and even a few flowers inside your home while the snow falls outside.
The Importance of Acclimation
Moving a plant from the humid, bright outdoors to the dry, dimmer indoors can be a shock. To make the transition easier, we suggest an acclimation period. About two weeks before you plan to bring them in permanently, move your pots to a more shaded area on your porch or patio. This helps the leaves adjust to lower light levels.
Preparing the Plant
Before the plant crosses your threshold, give it a thorough inspection. Insects love to hitch a ride into the warmth of your home. Wash the foliage with a gentle spray of water to knock off any hidden pests. If the plant has grown too large for its pot or looks "leggy," you can trim it back by about a third. This encourages the plant to grow bushier and makes it more manageable indoors.
Soil and Pots
If your begonias are currently in the ground, you will need to transplant them into pots. Always use a high-quality, "soil-free" potting mix rather than garden soil. Garden soil is too heavy for containers and can contain pests or diseases.
"Drainage" is the most important factor for begonia health. This means the water should be able to flow freely out of the bottom of the pot. Ensure your containers have plenty of holes. Begonias hate "wet feet," which occurs when roots sit in stagnant water for too long.
Key Takeaway: Acclimation is the secret to success. Gradually moving your plants to lower light before bringing them indoors prevents the leaves from dropping in protest.
Essential Indoor Care for the Winter Months
Once your begonias are settled inside, their needs will change. The indoor environment in winter is typically much drier and darker than what they are used to outdoors. To keep them thriving, focus on these three pillars: light, water, and humidity. If you want a fuller step-by-step care refresher, our How to Plant and Care for Begonias guide covers the basics.
Finding the Right Light
Begonias are famously shade-loving outdoors, but indoors, they need more light than you might expect. A north-facing window usually isn't bright enough. Aim for an east or west-facing window where they can get several hours of bright, indirect light.
If your leaves start to look pale or the stems become very long and thin, the plant is likely reaching for more light. You can supplement natural light with a simple LED grow light if your home is particularly dark.
Master the Water
Overwatering is the number one reason begonias fail indoors. In the winter, plants grow more slowly and use much less water. Always use the "finger test" before grabbing the watering can. Stick your finger about an inch into the soil. If it feels moist, wait a few more days. If it feels dry, give the plant a thorough drink, but make sure to empty any water that collects in the saucer.
Boosting Humidity
Our heating systems strip moisture from the air, which can cause begonia leaves to develop brown, crispy edges. Since we can't turn our living rooms into tropical rainforests, we use "pebble trays."
To make a pebble tray, fill a shallow waterproof tray with small stones or pebbles. Add water until it is just below the top of the stones. Place your potted begonia on top of the stones, making sure the bottom of the pot isn't touching the water. As the water evaporates, it creates a small zone of high humidity right around the plant.
Temperature and Airflow
Begonias prefer the same temperatures we do—somewhere between 65°F and 75°F. However, they are sensitive to drafts. Keep them away from heating vents, which can blow hot, dry air on them, and away from drafty doors or windows that might let in a chill.
Common Challenges and Easy Fixes
Even with the best care, you might notice your begonias acting a bit differently indoors. Don't worry; most of these issues are easy to resolve once you know what to look for. For help choosing the best light exposure, see our begonia sun or shade guide.
Leaf Drop
It is very common for a begonia to drop a few leaves shortly after moving inside. This is usually just the plant adjusting to the change in light and humidity. As long as you see new growth eventually appearing, your plant is doing just fine. Simply pick up the fallen leaves to keep the soil surface clean.
Leggy Growth
If your stems are getting tall and sparse, the plant needs more light. You can pinch back the tips of the stems with your fingers to encourage branching. This tells the plant to stop growing up and start growing out, resulting in a fuller, more attractive plant.
Fuzzy White Spots (Powdery Mildew)
If you see a white, flour-like dust on the leaves, it is likely powdery mildew. This is a common fungal issue that happens when the air is still and the foliage stays damp. To fix this, improve the airflow around the plant. You can also mix a simple spray of one part milk to nine parts water and lightly mist the leaves. This is a gentle, natural way to help manage the fungus.
Yellowing Leaves
Yellow leaves are almost always a sign of too much water. If you notice yellowing, check the drainage holes in your pot to make sure they aren't blocked and cut back on your watering frequency. Allow the soil to dry out a bit more between sessions.
Transitioning Back to the Garden in Spring
As the days get longer and the threat of frost passes, it's time to think about moving your begonias back outside. This transition needs to be as gradual as the move indoors was in the fall.
Waking Up Tuberous Begonias
In late February or early March, take your stored tubers out of their box. You might even see tiny pink "eyes" or buds starting to sprout. Place them in a shallow tray of moist potting mix with the hollow side facing up. Keep them in a warm, bright spot. Once they have a few inches of growth, you can move them into their summer pots.
Hardening Off
Whether you have tubers that are waking up or houseplants that have been growing all winter, they need to be "hardened off." This is a process of slowly reintroducing them to the outdoor elements. Our shipping information page explains how timing ties in with your USDA hardiness zone.
- Week 1: Put the plants outside in a sheltered, shady spot for an hour or two during the warmest part of the day, then bring them back in.
- Week 2: Increase their time outside daily. Move them into slightly brighter light.
- Week 3: If the night temperatures are reliably above 50°F, they can stay outside overnight.
Once the danger of frost is completely gone—usually mid-to-late May in many US regions—you can safely plant them in their permanent summer homes. If you want a quick reference for choosing the right season, our How Tall Do Tuberous Begonias Grow? article also covers how these plants perform through the season.
Why We Love Overwintering
At Longfield Gardens, we see wintering begonias as a bridge between gardening seasons. It turns a temporary summer display into a long-term investment in your landscape. While it requires a small amount of effort, the payoff is a larger, more vigorous plant the following year. If you are planning to expand your collection next season, our Non Stop Begonias collection is a great place to start.
Remember that gardening is a learning process. If a plant doesn't make it through the first time, don't be discouraged. Every home has its own unique microclimate, and part of the fun is discovering what works best in your space. With a little patience and the right steps, you can enjoy the lush, tropical beauty of begonias year after year.
Key Takeaway: Success comes from a slow transition. By respecting the plant's need for acclimation and proper winter rest, you ensure a vibrant and colorful return in the spring.
Conclusion
Wintering begonias indoors is a rewarding practice that transforms these "annual" favorites into long-lived garden companions. Whether you choose to let your tuberous varieties rest in a cool basement or keep your wax begonias bright on a sunny windowsill, the process is accessible for gardeners of all levels. By managing light, water, and humidity, you can navigate the winter months with ease.
- Identify: Know if your begonia needs dormancy (tuberous) or active care (fibrous-rooted).
- Prepare: Clean, trim, and acclimate your plants before the first frost.
- Monitor: Use the finger test for watering and pebble trays for humidity.
- Transition: Slowly reintroduce plants to the outdoors once the weather warms.
We invite you to explore our selection of premium begonias and other summer-blooming bulbs to find the perfect additions to your garden. With the right care, these stunning plants will continue to bring joy and color to your home and yard for many seasons to come.
FAQ
Can all begonias be wintered indoors?
Yes, nearly all begonias grown in home gardens can be saved indoors. The key is knowing whether to keep them growing as houseplants (Wax, Cane, and Rex) or to let them go dormant (Tuberous). Both methods are effective if you match the care to the specific type of begonia you own. For more planting details, our begonia planting guide is a helpful next step.
How do I know when to bring my begonias inside?
You should bring your begonias indoors before the first hard frost. For varieties you intend to keep as houseplants, it is best to bring them in when night temperatures start dipping into the 50s to avoid cold stress. For tuberous begonias, you can wait until the first light frost kills the foliage before digging up the tubers for storage. Our Where to Plant Begonias: Sun or Shade? article can also help you judge the best outdoor spot before fall arrives.
Do I need to fertilize my begonias during the winter?
In general, we recommend pausing or significantly reducing fertilization during the winter. Because there is less natural light, the plants grow much more slowly and don't require the extra nutrients. Once you see vigorous new growth in the spring, you can resume a regular feeding schedule with a balanced liquid fertilizer.
My begonia tuber feels soft or mushy; can I still save it?
Unfortunately, a soft or mushy tuber is usually a sign of rot, which is often caused by too much moisture during storage. It is best to discard any tubers that feel hollow, shriveled, or mushy to prevent rot from spreading to healthy plants. Always check your stored tubers once a month to ensure they remain firm and dry. If you are starting fresh next season, the How Deep Should I Plant Begonias? guide is a good reference for getting tubers off to a strong start.
