Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Selecting the Best Begonias for Your Baskets
- Timing Your Planting for Success
- How to Pre-Sprout Begonia Tubers
- Choosing the Right Basket and Soil
- Step-by-Step Guide to Planting the Basket
- Finding the Perfect Location
- Watering and Feeding Your Baskets
- Maintaining the Display
- Enjoying the Season and Looking Ahead
- Summary of Planting Steps
- FAQ
Introduction
There is a unique joy in hanging a lush, flower-filled basket on a porch and watching it transform into a cascading waterfall of color. The Hanging Begonias collection includes the trailing begonias that are the undisputed stars of the shade garden, offering large, rose-like blooms and vibrant foliage that thrives where many other flowers struggle. At Longfield Gardens, we love how these versatile plants can turn a simple entryway or a quiet patio into a spectacular floral display that lasts from midsummer all the way until the first frost.
Learning how to plant begonia hanging baskets is a rewarding project for any gardener, whether you are a beginner or have years of experience. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from selecting the right tubers in our Begonia Flower Bulbs for Sale collection to the final steps of hanging and caring for your display. We will cover the specific needs of these tropical beauties to ensure you get the most blooms possible this season.
By following a few simple steps, you can create professional-looking hanging baskets that grow more beautiful with every passing week. This article is designed to help you master the timing, placement, and care required for a successful begonia display.
Selecting the Best Begonias for Your Baskets
Before you get your hands in the soil, it is important to choose the right type of begonia. While there are hundreds of varieties, not all of them are suited for hanging baskets. You specifically want to look for "trailing" or "pendula" varieties. These plants have a natural growth habit that causes their stems to arch and drape over the sides of a container. If you want a different habit, the Non-Stop Begonias collection is another place to browse.
Trailing and Pendula Varieties
Standard upright begonias are wonderful for garden beds and window boxes, but in a hanging basket, they can look a bit stiff. Trailing begonias, such as Begonia Hanging Pink Balcony, produce many stems that grow outward and then downward. These varieties often have slightly smaller but much more numerous flowers than the giant upright types. This creates a fuller, more balanced look for a basket that will be viewed from below.
Boliviensis Begonias
Another excellent choice for hanging baskets is Begonia Hanging Golden Balcony. These plants have a more modern, delicate look with elongated, wing-shaped leaves and bell-shaped flowers. They are exceptionally vigorous and can quickly trail three feet or more. Varieties like 'Santa Cruz' or 'Waterfall' are popular for their ability to handle a bit more heat and sun than traditional tuberous begonias.
Odorata and Scented Options
If you hang your baskets near a seating area or a doorway, consider scented trailing begonias. The Begonia Upright Double Odorata White line offers pendulous blooms with a light, sweet fragrance. These varieties typically feature double flowers in soft shades of pink, white, and apricot, adding a sensory layer to your garden design.
Key Takeaway: Always check the plant description to ensure the variety is "trailing" or "pendula." This growth habit is what creates the beautiful cascading effect needed for a high-impact hanging basket.
Timing Your Planting for Success
Begonias are tropical plants that love warmth and are very sensitive to cold. Getting the timing right is the most important factor in ensuring your plants grow strong and bloom early. Because begonia tubers take a while to wake up and start growing, we recommend starting them indoors before the weather warms up outside. You can use the Hardiness Zone Map to help fine-tune your planting window.
Starting Indoors (Pre-Sprouting)
In most parts of the United States, you should start your begonia tubers indoors about 8 to 12 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area. This "head start" allows the plants to develop a solid root system and several inches of top growth before they ever face the outdoor elements. If you wait to plant them outside until the weather is warm, you might not see flowers until late summer. Starting early ensures a much longer blooming season.
Monitoring Temperature
Begonias should not be moved outdoors until the night temperatures are consistently above 50°F. Even a light frost will damage the tender foliage and can kill the tuber. If you live in a cooler climate, be patient. The wait is worthwhile, as the plants will grow much faster once the soil and air are truly warm.
What to do next:
- Find your local last frost date using an online zip code search.
- Count back 10 weeks from that date to find your ideal indoor planting window.
- Gather your tubers, shallow trays, and a high-quality potting mix.
How to Pre-Sprout Begonia Tubers
Pre-sprouting is the process of "waking up" the tubers in a controlled environment. This step ensures that your hanging baskets are already filled with green leaves by the time the weather is right for hanging them outside.
Identifying the Top and Bottom
When you look at a begonia tuber, it looks like a small, brown, hairy potato or a thick bulb. One side is usually rounded (the bottom), and the other side has a hollow or indented area (the top). This indented side is often compared to a shallow bowl or a cup. The sprouts will emerge from the inside of this cup.
The Sprouting Setup
You do not need deep pots for this stage. A shallow tray or a seed-starting flat works perfectly. Fill the tray with 2 to 3 inches of moist, but not soggy, potting mix. Place the tubers on top of the soil with the cupped side facing up. You can space them just an inch or two apart at this stage.
Light and Moisture
Cover the tubers with just a half-inch of soil. Some gardeners prefer to leave the tops slightly exposed so they can watch for the first signs of pink or red buds. Place the tray in a warm spot (around 70°F) with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct, hot sunlight, which can dry out the tubers too quickly. For a broader refresher on planting and care, see our All About Begonias guide.
Water very sparingly at first. The goal is to keep the soil barely moist. If the soil stays too wet before the tuber has roots, it can lead to rot. Once you see green leaves emerging, you can begin to water more regularly, allowing the soil surface to dry slightly between drinks.
Choosing the Right Basket and Soil
The home you choose for your begonias matters as much as the plants themselves. Hanging baskets are prone to drying out faster than garden beds, so the materials you use will dictate how much maintenance is required.
Basket Types and Sizes
A 12-inch hanging basket is the standard size for most home gardens. This size provides enough room for three begonia tubers, which will grow together to create a full, lush look. If you use a smaller 10-inch basket, stick to two tubers.
For the material, you have a few options:
- Plastic Baskets: These are excellent for retaining moisture, which begonias appreciate. Many come with built-in reservoirs at the bottom.
- Wire Baskets with Liners: Using a coco coir or moss liner provides a classic look and excellent drainage. However, these dry out very quickly. To help with water retention, you can place a plastic saucer or a piece of a plastic trash bag (with a few holes poked in it) at the bottom of the liner before adding soil.
The Importance of Potting Mix
Never use garden soil or topsoil in a hanging basket. It is too heavy and will compact over time, preventing oxygen from reaching the roots. Instead, use a high-quality, peat-based or coco-coir-based potting mix. These mixes are lightweight and designed to hold the right amount of moisture while allowing excess water to drain away freely.
Adding Drainage
Ensure your basket has drainage holes. Begonias love moisture, but they cannot sit in water. If the roots stay saturated, they will suffocate and rot. If you are using a decorative pot without holes, use it as an "outer" pot and keep the begonias in a plastic liner with holes inside it.
Step-by-Step Guide to Planting the Basket
Once your tubers have sprouted and have a few sets of leaves, it is time to move them into their permanent hanging baskets. This usually happens a few weeks before they are ready to go outside.
Step 1: Prepare the Basket
If you are using a wire basket with a coco liner, ensure it is securely seated. Fill the basket about two-thirds of the way with pre-moistened potting mix. It is much easier to work with moist soil than to try and saturate dry soil after planting.
Step 2: Arrange the Tubers
For a 12-inch basket, place three sprouted tubers in a triangle pattern. Position them toward the outer edge of the basket rather than right in the center. This encourages the stems to grow outward and trail over the sides more effectively.
Step 3: Set the Depth
Gently set the tubers into the soil. You want the top of the tuber to be covered by about 1 inch of soil. If the plants already have several inches of growth, be very careful when handling them. Begonia stems are notoriously brittle and can snap easily.
Step 4: Fill and Firm
Add more potting mix around the plants until the soil level is about an inch below the rim of the basket. This "headroom" allows you to water the basket without the water and soil spilling over the edges. Gently press the soil down with your fingers to remove large air pockets, but do not pack it tightly.
Step 5: Initial Watering
Give the basket a gentle but thorough watering to settle the soil around the roots. Use a watering can with a "rose" attachment (a shower-head style tip) to avoid washing away the soil or damaging the tender stems.
Key Takeaway: Spacing tubers toward the edges of the basket encourages a fuller, more dramatic cascade. Always handle the plants by the root ball or the tuber, as the stems break easily.
Finding the Perfect Location
Where you hang your basket will determine how many flowers you get. While begonias are famous for being shade plants, they do need some light to produce blooms. For a quick overview of the best siting advice, see our Are Begonias Shade Plants? guide.
Light Requirements
The ideal spot for most trailing begonias is a location that receives bright, filtered light or morning sun and afternoon shade. The morning sun provides the energy for blooming, while the afternoon shade protects the foliage from being scorched by the intense midday heat. A covered porch, the north or east side of a house, or under the canopy of a large tree are usually perfect spots.
Protection from Wind
Because begonia stems are succulent and brittle, they can be easily damaged by strong winds. Avoid hanging your baskets on a corner of the house where wind whipped around the building. If a storm is predicted, it is a good idea to take the baskets down and place them in a protected area until the wind subsides.
Air Circulation
While begonias need protection from wind, they still require good air circulation. Avoid cramming too many baskets together or hanging them in a stagnant corner. Good airflow helps prevent common issues like powdery mildew, which can occur if the leaves stay damp for too long in a humid environment.
Watering and Feeding Your Baskets
Hanging baskets require more frequent attention than plants in the ground. Because they are exposed to air on all sides, the soil evaporates moisture quickly.
The Finger Test
The best way to know when to water is to stick your finger an inch into the soil. If it feels dry, it is time to water. If it still feels moist, wait another day. In the heat of midsummer, you may need to water your baskets every single morning.
How to Water
When you water, do so thoroughly. Continue adding water until it runs freely out of the drainage holes at the bottom. This ensures that the roots at the very bottom of the basket are getting hydrated. Whenever possible, try to water the soil directly rather than pouring water over the leaves and flowers. This keeps the foliage dry and reduces the risk of fungal problems.
Fertilizer for Continuous Blooms
Begonias are "heavy feeders," meaning they need a lot of nutrients to keep producing those large, beautiful flowers all summer long. We recommend using a water-soluble fertilizer formulated for flowering plants. For more general care guidance, see our How to Take Care of a Begonia Plant guide.
Start fertilizing once the plants are established and growing vigorously. A common approach is to use a half-strength solution every two weeks. If you prefer a more "set it and forget it" method, you can mix slow-release fertilizer granules into the potting mix at the time of planting.
What to do next:
- Check the soil moisture every morning before the sun gets high.
- Keep a liquid fertilizer and a dedicated watering can nearby for easy maintenance.
- Empty any saucers under the baskets so the roots are not sitting in stagnant water.
Maintaining the Display
Once your begonia baskets are hanging and growing, a little bit of grooming will keep them looking their best throughout the season.
Deadheading
"Deadheading" is the process of removing faded or spent flowers. Most modern trailing begonias are somewhat self-cleaning, meaning the old flowers will eventually fall off on their own. However, picking off the brown, wilted blooms helps the plant look tidy and encourages it to put its energy into creating new buds rather than setting seeds.
Pinching for Fullness
If your begonias look a bit "leggy" or thin, you can pinch off the very tip of the growing stems. This signals the plant to grow more side branches, resulting in a fuller, bushier basket. Only do this early in the season, as it will briefly delay flowering. If you want more help shaping your plants, see our How to Trim a Begonia Plant guide.
Managing Pests
Begonias are generally free from major pest problems, but you might occasionally see aphids or slugs. If you notice holes in the leaves, check the bottom of the basket for slugs. For aphids, a gentle spray of water from a hose is often enough to dislodge them.
Enjoying the Season and Looking Ahead
As the summer progresses, your begonia baskets will become more and more impressive. The stems will lengthen, and the number of flowers will increase, often completely hiding the basket itself.
Realistic Expectations
The performance of your begonias can vary depending on your local microclimate. If you have a particularly hot and humid summer, the plants might grow a bit more slowly or take a "break" from blooming during the hottest weeks of the season. Don't worry—as soon as the nights cool down slightly, they will usually bounce back with a fresh flush of flowers.
Planning for Frost
Tuberous begonias will continue blooming until the first frost. When the weather starts to turn cold in late autumn, the foliage will begin to yellow. This is a signal that the plant is entering dormancy. At this point, you have two choices: you can treat the plants as annuals and compost them, or you can save the tubers to plant again next year.
If you choose to save them, stop watering and let the soil dry out. Once the foliage has died back, you can lift the tubers from the soil, clean them off, and store them in a cool, dry, frost-free place (like a basement or garage) in a paper bag filled with peat moss. Our customers at Longfield Gardens often find that their tubers grow larger and produce even more flowers each year they are replanted.
Summary of Planting Steps
Creating a stunning begonia display is a straightforward process when you break it down into simple tasks. By starting early and paying attention to the needs of the tubers, you can enjoy months of continuous color. If you're planning an order, our Shipping Information page explains timing and delivery details.
- Choose trailing varieties for the best cascading effect.
- Pre-sprout tubers indoors 10 weeks before the last frost to maximize the blooming season.
- Plant concave side up in high-quality, well-draining potting mix.
- Provide morning sun and afternoon shade to prevent leaf scorch while encouraging buds.
- Water consistently and feed with a liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Creating a beautiful garden shouldn't be a chore. With trailing begonias, the plants do most of the heavy lifting for you, providing a spectacular show with just a little bit of consistent care.
At Longfield Gardens, we take pride in providing high-quality tubers that are ready to thrive in your home garden, and we stand behind our 100% Quality Guarantee. We hope this guide gives you the confidence to start your own begonia hanging baskets this spring. Whether you are decorating a shaded apartment balcony or a sprawling country porch, these plants are sure to bring a smile to your face all summer long.
FAQ
Which way is up on a begonia tuber?
A begonia tuber usually has one side that is rounded and one side that is indented, looking like a shallow bowl or a cup. The indented (concave) side should face up when planting, as this is where the sprouts will emerge. If you are unsure, look for small pink or red buds, which always indicate the top.
How many begonia tubers should I put in a 12-inch basket?
For a full and lush display, we recommend planting three begonia tubers in a 12-inch hanging basket. Space them in a triangle pattern near the outer edges of the basket. If you are using smaller tubers or a larger 14-inch basket, you can increase the number to four or five for an even denser look.
Why are my begonia stems breaking?
Begonia stems are very succulent and contain a lot of water, making them brittle and heavy. They can break easily if handled roughly during planting or if they are exposed to strong winds. Always pick up the plant by the root ball or the tuber rather than the stem, and hang your baskets in a location protected from heavy gusts.
Do I need to take begonias down when it rains?
A light rain is generally beneficial for begonias, as it helps clean the foliage and hydrate the soil. However, during heavy downpours or thunderstorms, it is a good idea to bring the baskets under cover. Large raindrops and high winds can snap the delicate stems or batter the large, heavy flower heads.