Introduction
There is a special kind of excitement that comes with seeing the first bright blossoms of a begonia tucked into a shady corner of the porch. These plants are beloved for their ability to bring saturated color and lush, waxy foliage to the parts of the yard where other flowers might struggle to grow. At Longfield Gardens, we know that once you see how well they perform, you naturally want that same display to return the following year without starting from scratch.
This guide is for home gardeners who want to understand the lifecycle of their begonias and decide whether to treat them as a one-season highlight or a long-term investment. We will explore the different types of begonias, their specific temperature needs, and the simple steps you can take to keep them healthy season after season. Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned gardener, understanding these basics makes the process rewarding and achievable.
The answer to whether a begonia is a perennial is a bit more interesting than a simple yes or no. Botanically speaking, almost all begonias are perennials, but because they are native to tropical climates, their survival in your garden depends entirely on how you manage the change of seasons.
The Botanical Truth About Begonias
When you walk through a garden center, you will often see begonias labeled as annuals. In the world of gardening, an "annual" is a plant that completes its entire life from seed to flower in a single growing season and then dies. A "perennial" is a plant that lives for several years, often going dormant in the winter and regrowing in the spring.
Botanically, almost all begonias are perennials. In their native habitats in Central and South America, Asia, and Africa, they grow continuously or go through a natural rest period before sprouting again. They do not naturally die after one year. However, because they are tropical plants, they have no built-in defense against freezing temperatures.
For most of the United States, we categorize begonias as "tender perennials." This means that while the plant has the biological ability to live for many years, it will only do so if it is protected from the cold. If a standard begonia is left in the ground during a northern winter, the water inside its succulent stems will freeze, causing the plant to perish. If you live in a frost-free climate or move your plants indoors, they will continue to thrive as the perennials they truly are.
Begonias
Identifying the Four Main Begonia Types
To decide how to care for your plants, you first need to identify which type you have. We generally group the most common garden varieties into four categories based on their root systems and growth habits.
Tuberous Begonias
These varieties grow from a thickened, potato-like underground stem called a tuber. They are famous for having the largest and most spectacular flowers, often resembling roses or camellias. Tuberous begonias are favorites for window boxes and hanging baskets. Because they store energy in a tuber, they are the easiest type to save over the winter.
Fibrous-Rooted (Wax) Begonias
Wax begonias are the "workhorses" of the shade garden. They have small, succulent leaves that are either green or bronze and produce a constant supply of small red, pink, or white flowers. These have a traditional root system of thin, thread-like fibers. They are very common as bedding plants and are usually treated as annuals, though they can be kept alive indoors.
Rhizomatous and Rex Begonias
These are primarily grown for their incredible foliage. Rex begonias feature swirls of silver, purple, pink, and green on their leaves. They grow from a rhizome, which is a thick stem that grows horizontally along the soil surface. While they do bloom, the flowers are secondary to the leaves. These are most often grown as houseplants but can spend the summer outdoors in a shaded, protected spot.
Hardy Begonias (Begonia grandis)
While most begonias are tender, there is one notable exception. Begonia grandis, commonly known as the hardy begonia, is a true perennial for much of the United States. Unlike its tropical cousins, this species can survive outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 6 through 9. It features beautiful, heart-shaped leaves and produces airy clusters of delicate pink or white flowers in mid-to-late summer.
Growing Begonias by Hardiness Zone
Your local climate is the biggest factor in determining if you can treat your begonias as perennials in the landscape. The USDA Hardiness Zone Map is a helpful tool for understanding your local conditions.
- Zones 10 and 11: In these tropical and sub-tropical regions, most begonias can stay in the ground year-round. They will grow as evergreen perennials, though they may appreciate a light pruning during the shortest days of the year.
- Zone 9: Gardeners in this zone can often keep begonias outdoors, but a sudden frost can be a risk. Using a layer of mulch or a light frost blanket during cold snaps helps them survive.
- Zones 2 through 8: In these areas, the ground freezes deep enough to kill tropical roots. To keep your begonias for next year, you must either lift the tubers for storage or bring the entire plant inside before the first frost.
We coordinate our shipping schedule based on these zones. This ensures your plants arrive about two weeks before the ideal planting time in your region so you can get them in the ground when the soil is warm enough. See our shipping information for zone-based timing.
How to Overwinter Tuberous Begonias
If you have a specific tuberous variety you love, you don't have to buy new ones every year. Saving them is a simple process that allows the plant to get larger and produce even more flowers each subsequent season.
Timing the Harvest
Wait until the first light frost kills the foliage or until the leaves start to yellow naturally in the fall. This signals the plant to send all its energy down into the tuber. If a frost is coming, you can cut the stems back to about two inches above the soil line.
Lifting and Cleaning
Gently lift the tubers out of the soil with a garden fork or trowel. Be careful not to nick or bruise the tuber, as this can lead to rot during storage. Shake off the excess soil and remove any remaining bits of stem. It is best to let them dry with a little soil on them rather than washing them with water.
The Curing Process
Place the tubers in a warm, dry, and shaded area for about a week. This "curing" period allows the outer skin to toughen up. A porch or a garage that stays above freezing is a perfect spot. Once the remaining stem stubs are dry and brittle, they should pop off easily with a gentle tug.
Winter Storage
Store the tubers in a breathable container, such as a cardboard box or a paper bag. Fill the container with slightly damp peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust. This keeps them from drying out completely without making them wet enough to mold. Keep the box in a cool, dark place that stays between 40°F and 50°F. A basement or a cool closet usually works well.
What to do next:
- Check your stored tubers once a month during the winter.
- If they look shriveled, mist the packing material slightly with water.
- If you see any soft spots or mold, remove the affected tuber immediately to protect the others.
- Wait until 8–10 weeks before the last frost to start "waking them up" indoors.
For additional details, follow this step-by-step guide to winterizing begonias.
Keeping Wax and Rex Begonias as Houseplants
Since wax and Rex begonias do not have a large tuber to store, the best way to treat them as perennials is to transition them into houseplants for the winter. This is a great way to keep your favorite colors and textures around all year long.
The transition should happen before the outdoor temperatures drop below 50°F. Tropical plants can go into shock if they are moved from a warm garden directly into a heated, dry house. To make it easier on the plant, bring it inside for the night and move it back outside during the day for about a week.
Once they are permanently indoors, place them in a spot with bright, indirect light. A north- or east-facing window is usually ideal. Because indoor air is much drier than outdoor air, begonias may lose a few leaves as they adjust. This is normal. Wait until the top inch of soil feels dry before adding more water. For more guidance, see this begonia indoor-care guide.
Simple Gardening Rules for Begonia Success
Whether you are growing them for one season or ten, begonias thrive when you get the basics right. They are not demanding plants, but they do have specific preferences that make a big difference in how many flowers they produce.
Right Plant, Right Place
Most begonias are famous shade-lovers, but they prefer "dappled" light—the kind that filters through the leaves of a tall tree. If they are in total, dark shade, they may grow long, leggy stems and fewer flowers. Morning sun and afternoon shade are the perfect combination for most varieties. Learn more about begonia light requirements.
Soil and Drainage
Begonias do not like "wet feet." Drainage refers to how fast water leaves the soil. If the soil stays soggy, the stems and roots can rot quickly. When planting in the ground, add some compost to help loosen the soil. For containers, always use a high-quality potting mix and ensure the pot has plenty of drainage holes.
Water Correctly, Not Constantly
It is better to water deeply and then let the soil dry out slightly than to give the plant a little bit of water every day. This encourages the roots to grow deeper. A good rule of thumb is to stick your finger into the soil; if it feels dry up to your first knuckle, it is time to water. Try to water at the base of the plant to keep the leaves dry.
The Spring Transition
Begonias are very sensitive to cold soil and chilly nights. Wait until the danger of frost has completely passed and nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F before moving them back outside. If you put them out too early, the cold soil can stun the plants, and they may take several weeks to recover.
Why Some Begonias Don't Return
If you have tried to keep begonias as perennials and they didn't come back, don't be discouraged. There are a few common reasons why this might happen, and they are usually easy to adjust for the next season.
- Late Frost: Even in warmer zones, an unexpected late spring frost can kill tender new growth.
- Winter Rot: If tubers are stored in a place that is too damp, or if garden soil doesn't drain well in the winter, the roots can rot.
- The Wrong Type: You may have planted a tender variety and expected it to behave like a hardy one. Double-check the variety name when you buy.
- Temperature Extremes: Storing tubers in a place that gets too cold (freezing) or too warm (above 60°F) can prevent them from sprouting in the spring.
Gardening is a journey of observation. If one method doesn't work for your specific microclimate, trying a different overwintering method often leads to success.
The Benefits of Growing Begonias as Perennials
While it is easy to buy fresh begonias every spring, there are several reasons why we love keeping them as perennials. First, tuberous begonias actually get larger and more impressive every year. A three-year-old tuber will produce a much more substantial plant with more flowers than a brand-new one.
Second, it allows you to preserve specific colors or rare varieties that might not be available at the garden center every year. Finally, there is a deep sense of satisfaction in the rhythm of the seasons. The act of putting the plants to bed for the winter and welcoming them back in the spring creates a wonderful connection to the natural cycle of your garden.
Conclusion
Begonias are versatile, resilient, and stunningly beautiful plants. While they are often sold as annuals, remembering that they are actually tender perennials opens up a world of possibilities. By identifying the type of begonia you have and providing the right winter care—whether that is lifting tubers, bringing pots inside, or planting hardy varieties—you can enjoy these wonderful flowers for many years.
- Hardy begonias (Begonia grandis) are the best choice for year-round outdoor growth in zones 6-9.
- Tuberous begonias are easy to save by lifting and storing the tubers in a cool, dry place.
- Wax and Rex begonias can spend the winter indoors as beautiful houseplants.
- Successful growth always comes back to the basics: good drainage, filtered light, and protection from the cold.
At Longfield Gardens, our goal is to help you find joy in every part of the growing process. Taking a few simple steps to protect your begonias this winter is a rewarding way to ensure a vibrant and colorful start to your next gardening season.
"Begonias bridge the gap between indoor beauty and outdoor vibrancy, making them one of the most versatile and rewarding plants for any shade gardener."
FAQ
Can I leave my wax begonias in the ground if I mulch them heavily?
In most parts of the US, a heavy layer of mulch is not enough to protect wax begonias from freezing. If your ground freezes, the roots will likely die. This method only works in zones 9 and warmer, where the ground stays consistently above 50°F.
Do I need to prune my begonias before I bring them inside for the winter?
It is often helpful to give them a light trim to remove leggy growth and make the plant more manageable indoors. However, do not cut them back to the soil unless you are storing tuberous varieties for dormancy. For houseplants, a light "haircut" is sufficient.
How can I tell the difference between a tuberous and a wax begonia?
Look at the base of the plant and the leaves. Tuberous begonias usually have larger, pointier leaves and very large, complex flowers. If you dig an inch into the soil, you will feel a hard, potato-like lump. Wax begonias have rounder, smaller, waxy leaves and smaller flowers with thin, fibrous roots. This begonia type guide can help with identification.
Why did my stored begonia tubers get soft and mushy over the winter?
Mushy tubers are usually a sign of rot caused by too much moisture or a lack of airflow. This can happen if the tubers weren't dried properly before storage or if the packing material was too wet. Ensure they cure for a full week in a dry area before putting them away in a breathable container.