Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Understanding if Begonias are Annuals or Perennials
- The Role of Growing Zones
- Different Types of Begonias and Their Habits
- How to Make Tuberous Begonias Grow Back
- Bringing Wax Begonias Indoors
- Saving Plants with Cuttings
- The Exception: Growing Hardy Begonias
- Starting Over in the Spring
- Common Reasons Begonias Don't Grow Back
- Best Practices for Begonia Success
- Toxicity Note for Pet Owners
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Introduction
Begonias are a favorite for many gardeners because they provide such a generous display of color with very little effort. Whether you love the massive, rose-like blooms of tuberous begonias or the constant flowering of wax begonias, these plants bring a tropical feel to any porch or flower bed. There is a special kind of excitement that comes with seeing those first buds open in early summer, knowing that the display will only get better as the season progresses.
At Longfield Gardens, we want to help you make the most of these versatile plants. Many people wonder if they need to buy new plants every spring or if their existing ones will return. The answer depends largely on where you live and the specific type of begonia you are growing. While most are treated as annuals in cooler climates, many can actually be saved and enjoyed for years. For a quick overview of the plant group, see our begonia collection.
In this guide, we will explain which begonias have the potential to return on their own and how you can help the others "grow back" by using simple overwintering techniques. This information is perfect for anyone looking to extend the life of their garden favorites. Whether you have a green thumb or are just starting out, you can successfully keep your begonias healthy season after season.
Whether your begonias grow back every year depends on your local climate and how you care for them during the winter months.
Understanding if Begonias are Annuals or Perennials
To understand if your plants will return, it helps to know the difference between an annual and a perennial. An annual is a plant that finishes its entire life cycle in one year. It grows from a seed, flowers, produces more seeds, and then dies when the frost arrives. A perennial is a plant that lives for several years, often going dormant in the winter and regrowing from its roots or bulbs in the spring.
Technically, almost all begonias are perennials. They are native to tropical and subtropical regions where it never freezes. In those warm environments, they grow year-round or take a short rest before blooming again. However, because most parts of the United States experience freezing temperatures in the winter, we often treat them as annuals. If you want a broader care overview, our begonia growing guide covers the basics.
When a plant cannot survive the winter in your specific area, gardeners call it "tender." Most begonias are very tender. This means that if the temperature drops below freezing, the plant will likely die. If you want them to grow back, you have to either live in a very warm climate or bring the plants indoors before the first frost.
The Role of Growing Zones
Your success with begonias depends heavily on your USDA hardiness zone. These zones are a way to describe how cold it gets in your area during the winter. Most begonias are only hardy in zones 9 through 11. These are areas like southern Florida, parts of Texas, and coastal California. In these regions, you can often leave begonias in the ground, and they will grow back every year on their own.
For the rest of the country (zones 3 through 8), the ground freezes deep enough to kill the roots or tubers. If you live in these cooler zones, your begonias will not grow back if left outside. We recommend checking a hardiness zone map to see where your garden falls. This helps you decide if you need to take extra steps to save your plants.
Key Takeaway: Most begonias are tropical perennials that cannot survive freezing weather. If you live in a cold climate, they will only "grow back" if you move them to a frost-free area for the winter.
Different Types of Begonias and Their Habits
Not all begonias are the same. The way they grow back depends on which group they belong to. Identifying your plant is the first step in knowing how to handle it when the weather turns cold.
Tuberous Begonias
These are some of the most spectacular begonias you can grow. They produce large, dramatic flowers that can look like roses, camellias, or carnations. These plants grow from a "tuber," which is a thick, fleshy underground stem that stores energy.
Tuberous begonias, like the Non-Stop or 'Picotee' varieties, are designed to go dormant. In the wild, they have a dry season where they lose their leaves and rest. In your garden, this rest happens during the winter. Because they have a tuber, they are very easy to save. You can dig up the tuber, store it in a cool, dry place, and replant it the following spring.
Wax Begonias (Fibrous-Rooted)
Wax begonias are the classic bedding plants you see in parks and garden borders. They have succulent stems and shiny, "waxy" leaves that are either green or bronze. They produce clusters of small flowers in red, white, or pink. For more options in this group, start with the main begonia selection.
Unlike tuberous types, wax begonias have a fibrous root system. They do not have a thick bulb or tuber to store energy, so they do not go dormant in the same way. These plants will continue to grow as long as they are warm and have light. To have these grow back every year, you usually have to bring the entire plant inside as a houseplant or take cuttings to start new plants.
Cane and Angel Wing Begonias
These begonias are known for their tall, upright stems that look a bit like bamboo. Their leaves are often shaped like wings and may feature beautiful silver spots or metallic colors. Many gardeners grow these in containers. Like wax begonias, these are fibrous-rooted and do not go dormant. They are often kept as year-round houseplants in colder climates. If you want more detail on this type, see the angel wing begonia guide.
Hardy Begonias (Begonia grandis)
If you are looking for a begonia that truly grows back every year in the ground, this is the one for you. Begonia grandis is the only variety that is reliably winter-hardy in much of the US (down to zone 6). It looks very similar to other begonias but has the unique ability to survive freezing soil. It goes dormant in the fall and sprouts again in late spring.
To understand how that compares with other types, the are begonias perennial plants article is a helpful companion read.
How to Make Tuberous Begonias Grow Back
Tuberous begonias are the most common type that gardeners want to save. Because the plant stores all its "instructions" and energy in the tuber, you can keep it for many years. Here is the simple process for saving them.
Step 1: Watch the Weather
In the fall, your begonia will start to look a little tired. The leaves may turn yellow, and the plant will stop producing as many flowers. This is a natural signal that it is ready for a nap. You can leave the plants in the ground or in their pots until the first light frost. A light frost will turn the foliage black but won't hurt the tuber underground.
Step 2: Cure the Tubers
Once the stems have wilted, carefully dig the tubers out of the soil. Be gentle, as they can be brittle. Cut the stems off about an inch above the tuber. Shake off the excess dirt, but don't worry about getting them perfectly clean yet.
Place the tubers in a dry, shaded area for about two weeks. This is called "curing." It allows the outer skin to toughen up, which prevents the tuber from rotting or drying out too much during the winter. A garage or a covered porch is a great spot for this.
Step 3: Proper Storage
After curing, you can rub off the remaining dry soil and any bits of old roots. Place the tubers in a container filled with a dry material that allows for some air circulation. Good options include:
- Peat moss
- Wood shavings or sawdust
- Dry sand
- Shredded paper
Store the container in a cool, dark, and dry place. The temperature should be between 40°F and 50°F. A basement or a root cellar is usually ideal. Avoid spots that are too warm, as the tubers might try to sprout too early. Also, ensure the spot stays above freezing.
What to do next:
- Mark your storage containers with the variety and color.
- Set a reminder on your calendar to check the tubers once a month.
- Discard any tubers that feel soft or mushy, as this is a sign of rot.
- Lightly mist the storage material if the tubers look shriveled.
Bringing Wax Begonias Indoors
Since wax begonias don't have tubers, they won't survive if you just dig them up and put them in a box. However, they make excellent houseplants. If you want your wax begonias to grow back next year, follow these steps to move them inside.
Digging and Potting
Before the first frost, select the healthiest plants from your garden. Dig them up with a good ball of soil around the roots. Place them in a pot with fresh potting soil. It is a good idea to trim the plant back by about a third. This helps the roots adjust to the new container without having to support too much foliage.
Transitioning to Indoor Light
Moving from the bright outdoors to a dim living room can be a shock for plants. They may drop some leaves at first, but don't worry—this is normal. Place your potted begonias in a bright window that gets indirect light. Avoid placing them directly next to a heater or a drafty door.
Winter Care
Indoor begonias need less water than they do in the summer. Let the top inch of soil dry out before you water them again. "Drainage" is very important here; it refers to how fast water leaves the soil. Make sure your pot has holes at the bottom so the roots don't sit in soggy soil, which can lead to rot. You can stop fertilizing during the winter and start again in the spring when you see new growth.
Saving Plants with Cuttings
If you don't have room for large pots indoors, you can still ensure your begonias grow back by taking cuttings. This works best for wax, cane, and angel wing varieties. A cutting is simply a small piece of the parent plant that you grow into a brand-new plant.
- Cut: Use a clean pair of scissors to snip a 4-inch piece of a healthy stem. Choose a piece that doesn't have flowers on it if possible.
- Strip: Remove the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting.
- Root: Place the cutting in a small jar of water or stick it directly into a pot of moist potting soil.
- Wait: In a few weeks, the cutting will grow its own roots. By springtime, you will have a small, healthy plant ready to go back into the garden.
Starting new plants from cuttings is a fun and easy win for any gardener. It’s a great way to double your plant collection for free.
The Exception: Growing Hardy Begonias
If you live in USDA zones 6 through 9, you can grow Begonia grandis. This is the only begonia that truly grows back every year like a traditional perennial. It is a shade-loving plant that produces beautiful pink or white flowers in late summer.
To ensure it returns, plant it in a sheltered spot with plenty of organic matter in the soil. In the fall, let the plant die back naturally. You can apply a layer of mulch—like shredded leaves or bark—over the spot where it is planted. This mulch acts like a blanket, protecting the roots from extreme temperature swings during the winter. In the spring, be patient. Hardy begonias are famous for being "late sleepers" and may not show new growth until the ground is quite warm.
Starting Over in the Spring
If you have successfully overwintered your tubers or kept your plants alive indoors, the most exciting part is getting them back into the garden.
For tubers, you can start them indoors about 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date. Place them in a shallow tray of moist potting soil with the hollow side facing up. Keep them in a warm, bright spot. Once they have a few leaves and the outdoor temperatures are consistently above 60°F, you can move them outside.
For indoor plants and cuttings, you should "harden them off" before planting them in the ground. This means moving them outside for a few hours a day, gradually increasing their time in the sun and wind. This toughens them up so they don't get scorched or wilted by the sudden change in environment.
Common Reasons Begonias Don't Grow Back
Even with the best intentions, sometimes begonias don't return. If your plants didn't make it, it is usually due to one of a few common factors. Lead with these simple checks to improve your results next year:
- Excessive Moisture: If the soil or storage material is too wet, the roots or tubers will rot. Always ensure your pots have drainage and your stored tubers stay dry.
- Temperature Extremes: If the storage area freezes, the tubers will die. If it is too hot, they will dry out or sprout prematurely.
- Timing: Waiting too long to bring plants in can be fatal. A single night of hard frost is often enough to kill tender begonias.
- Pests: Occasionally, mice or insects might find your stored tubers. Keeping them in a secure container can help.
By focusing on these few basics—proper timing, correct temperature, and avoiding rot—you will find that saving your begonias is a very rewarding and achievable goal.
Best Practices for Begonia Success
Whether you are starting with new plants or regrowing old ones, following a few simple rules will ensure they look their best.
- Right Plant, Right Place: Match your begonia to the light you have. Most prefer partial shade, but some newer wax begonia varieties can handle full sun. Check the tag to be sure.
- Water Correctly: Begonias like to be moist but never soggy. The best method is to water deeply until it runs out the bottom of the pot, then let the top of the soil dry out before watering again.
- Feeding: Begonias are "heavy feeders," meaning they like regular nutrients. Using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every few weeks during the growing season will keep the blooms coming.
- Spacing: Give your plants room to breathe. Good airflow helps prevent fungal issues like powdery mildew, which can look like white dust on the leaves.
"Gardening success is often about getting the basics right. For begonias, that means providing great drainage and protecting them from the cold. If you do those two things, the plants will handle the rest."
Toxicity Note for Pet Owners
It is important to remember that begonias are toxic to cats and dogs if eaten. The most toxic part of the plant is the underground portion (the roots or tubers). If you have curious pets, keep your potted begonias on high stands or in hanging baskets where they cannot be reached. When storing tubers for the winter, make sure they are in a secure container in a spot your pets cannot access.
Conclusion
Seeing your begonias grow back every year is a wonderful way to connect with your garden over many seasons. While these tropical beauties usually need a little help from us to survive the winter, the process is straightforward and very satisfying. By identifying the type of begonia you have and choosing the right way to protect it, you can save money and enjoy larger, more established plants each year.
- Check your USDA zone to see if begonias can stay outside.
- Identify if your plant has a tuber (for easy storage) or fibrous roots (to keep as a houseplant).
- Always bring tender varieties inside before the first frost.
- Use well-draining soil to prevent rot during both summer and winter.
We at Longfield Gardens hope this guide gives you the confidence to try overwintering your favorites. With a little bit of planning and care, your begonias will continue to brighten your home and garden for years to come.
To get started with the best varieties for your garden, explore our selection of premium begonia tubers and start planning your most colorful season yet.
FAQ
Can I leave my begonias in the ground over winter?
You can only leave begonias in the ground if you live in a very warm climate, typically USDA zones 9 to 11. In these areas, the ground does not freeze, allowing the plants to survive. In cooler zones, the freezing temperatures will kill the plants unless they are a specific "hardy" variety like Begonia grandis.
How do I know if my begonia is a tuberous type?
Tuberous begonias usually have very large, showy flowers and thick, fleshy stems. If you gently dig around the base of the plant and find a brown, potato-like structure, it is a tuberous begonia. Fibrous-rooted begonias, like wax begonias, will only have a mass of thin, hair-like roots.
Do begonias need sun or shade to grow back?
During the growing season, most begonias prefer partial shade or filtered light, though this depends on the variety. However, when they are "growing back" from dormancy in the spring, they need warmth and bright, indirect light to trigger new growth. Never put dormant tubers in direct, hot sun, as this can dry them out before they have a chance to grow.
My stored begonia tubers are shriveled; are they dead?
Not necessarily. It is normal for tubers to lose a little moisture during winter storage. If they are slightly shriveled but still firm to the touch, they are likely fine. You can lightly mist them with water to help them rehydrate. However, if the tuber is completely dry and brittle, or if it is soft and mushy, it has likely failed and should be discarded.