Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Determining if You Need to Save Your Canna Bulbs
- Timing the Harvest Correctly
- How to Lift Canna Rhizomes from the Garden
- Cleaning and Preparing for Storage
- The Importance of Curing
- Should You Divide Now or in the Spring?
- Choosing the Best Storage Materials
- The Ideal Storage Environment
- Step-by-Step Packing Method
- Winter Maintenance: Checking Your Stash
- Saving Container-Grown Cannas
- Preparing to Replant in Spring
- Safety and Care
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Introduction
There is nothing quite like the tropical flair that cannas bring to a summer garden. Their bold, oversized leaves and vibrant blossoms make any backyard feel like a private island retreat. As the season winds down and the first hints of autumn air arrive, you might wonder how to keep that beauty going for next year. The good news is that cannas are incredibly resilient, and saving them is one of the most rewarding ways to grow your garden collection without spending more money. Browse our Cannas Bulbs for Sale.
At Longfield Gardens, we want every gardener to feel confident about keeping their favorite plants healthy year after year. While these tropical beauties love the heat, they are not naturally equipped to survive freezing winter temperatures in most parts of the United States. Learning the right way to lift and store them ensures that your garden will be just as lush next summer as it was this year. If you garden by climate, check the Hardiness Zone Map.
This guide will walk you through the simple steps of harvesting, cleaning, and storing your canna rhizomes for the winter months. Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned gardener, you will find that "saving bulbs" is a relaxing end-of-season ritual. Saving canna bulbs is a straightforward process of lifting the rhizomes after frost, drying them correctly, and keeping them in a cool, dark place until spring. For more background, see All About Cannas.
Determining if You Need to Save Your Canna Bulbs
The first step in saving cannas is knowing whether you actually need to dig them up. This depends entirely on where you live and your local weather patterns. Cannas are tropical and subtropical plants that grow from fleshy underground stems called rhizomes. These rhizomes are often referred to as "bulbs" by gardeners, even though they look more like a piece of ginger root. To compare taller selections, browse Tall Cannas.
In USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10, cannas are generally hardy enough to stay in the ground all year. If you live in these warm regions, you can simply cut the foliage back after it turns yellow and let the plants rest. The soil stays warm enough that the rhizomes will not freeze. For medium-height choices, see Medium Cannas.
However, if you live in Zone 7 or colder, the winter freeze will likely reach deep enough into the soil to damage or kill the rhizomes. In these areas, saving canna bulbs means lifting them out of the garden and moving them to a frost-free environment. If you are in Zone 7, you might have success leaving them in the ground with a very heavy layer of mulch, but digging them up is the only way to be 100% sure they survive a particularly harsh winter.
Timing the Harvest Correctly
Timing is everything when it comes to saving cannas. You want to give the plants as much time as possible to store energy for next year. Throughout the summer, the leaves act like solar panels, sending sugar down into the rhizomes to fuel future growth.
The best time to start the process is right after the first light frost of the autumn. You will know it has happened when the lush green or bronze leaves suddenly turn black or dark brown. This may look a bit sad at first, but it is actually a helpful signal from nature. This frost tells the plant to stop growing and go to sleep for the winter. If you are growing several different varieties, browse the Canna Assorted Collection.
If you live in an area where frost comes very late, you can still dig them up in late October or early November. Just wait until the foliage starts to naturally yellow and die back. Do not wait until the ground freezes solid, as this makes digging difficult and can damage the rhizomes. For planting steps next spring, see How to Plant Canna Lily Bulbs.
Key Takeaway: Wait for the first light frost to blacken the leaves. This signals the plant to go dormant and ensures the rhizomes have stored the maximum amount of energy for next season.
How to Lift Canna Rhizomes from the Garden
Lifting cannas is a physical task, but it does not have to be difficult. The goal is to get the rhizomes out of the ground without slicing through them or bruising them. Fleshy rhizomes are full of moisture, and any deep cuts can become entry points for rot during winter storage. For more container-growing tips, see How to Grow Summer Bulbs in Containers.
Prepare the Foliage
Before you reach for your shovel, use a pair of clean garden shears to cut the stalks down. You should leave about 2 to 4 inches of stem protruding from the base. This provides a "handle" for you to grab and makes it easier to see exactly where the center of the plant is located.
Dig Wide and Deep
Cannas can grow quite large in a single season. A small rhizome planted in May can turn into a massive clump by October. Start digging about 6 to 12 inches away from the base of the stems. Use a garden fork or a sturdy spade to loosen the soil all the way around the plant.
Lift Gently
Once the soil is loose, gently pry the clump upward. If the clump is very large, you might need to lift it in sections. Avoid pulling too hard on the stems, as they can snap off. Instead, use your tool to lift from underneath the root mass. Once the clump is free, shake it gently to remove large chunks of soil.
Cleaning and Preparing for Storage
Once your cannas are out of the ground, they need a little bit of grooming before they go into their winter home. You do not need to make them perfectly clean, but removing excess soil helps prevent pests and moisture issues in storage.
First, use your hands to brush away the loose dirt. If your soil is heavy clay, you might find it easier to let the clumps sit in the sun for an hour or two so the mud dries slightly and crumbles off. Some gardeners prefer to rinse their rhizomes with a garden hose. This is fine as long as you allow them to dry completely afterward.
Inspect each rhizome as you clean it. Look for any parts that feel soft, mushy, or smell bad. These are signs of rot and should be cut away with a clean knife. You only want to keep the firm, healthy pieces. Healthy canna rhizomes should feel heavy for their size and have a firm texture similar to a fresh potato.
What to Do Next:
- Cut stems down to 3 inches.
- Dig a wide circle around the plant to avoid damage.
- Lift from underneath rather than pulling the stems.
- Brush off loose soil and check for firm, healthy tissue.
The Importance of Curing
Curing is a fancy gardening word for letting the rhizomes air-dry before you pack them away. This step is vital for saving canna bulbs because it allows the "skin" of the rhizome to toughen up. It also helps any small nicks or cuts from the digging process to callous over, which naturally seals out disease.
Place your cleaned rhizomes in a single layer on a tray, a piece of cardboard, or a screen. Keep them in a dry, well-ventilated area that is out of direct sunlight and protected from rain. A garage, a covered porch, or a garden shed works perfectly.
Let them cure for about 3 to 7 days. You are not trying to dry them out until they are shriveled and hard. You simply want the outer surface to feel dry to the touch and the remaining soil to be completely desiccated. If the weather is very humid, they may need a few extra days.
Should You Divide Now or in the Spring?
As you prepare your cannas for storage, you will notice that the original rhizome has produced many new sections. These are called "eyes" or growth points. You have two choices: you can store the entire large clump as it is, or you can divide it into smaller pieces now. If you want a ready-made mix, browse the Canna Assorted Collection.
We often recommend waiting until the spring to do the heavy dividing. Large clumps tend to hold their moisture better over the winter and are less likely to dry out completely. However, if the clumps are too large to fit into your storage containers, you can certainly break them down into smaller sections.
If you do decide to divide them now, make sure each piece has at least one to three "eyes." These look like small, pointed bumps or buds on the surface of the rhizome. Use a sharp, sterilized knife to make clean cuts. If you divide them in the fall, give the cut pieces an extra day or two of curing time to ensure the new wounds have calloused over before they are packed.
Choosing the Best Storage Materials
How you pack your canna bulbs is just as important as how you dig them. The goal is to keep them in a "goldilocks" state: not so wet that they rot, but not so dry that they turn into shriveled husks. At Longfield Gardens, we have found that using a packing medium is the most reliable way to achieve this balance.
Peat Moss or Coco Coir
Peat moss is a classic choice because it holds a tiny bit of moisture while remaining airy. It acts like insulation for the rhizomes. Coco coir is a sustainable alternative that works just as well.
Pine Shavings or Sawdust
If you have a local pet store, bags of pine shavings (used for animal bedding) are excellent for bulb storage. They are very inexpensive and provide great airflow while keeping the rhizomes separated.
Newspaper
For a simple, low-cost method, you can wrap each individual rhizome in several layers of dry newspaper. The paper absorbs excess moisture and prevents any rot from spreading from one bulb to another.
Vermiculite or Perlite
These lightweight minerals are often used in potting soil. They are completely sterile and excellent at regulating moisture. While they are a bit more expensive than shavings or newspaper, they are very effective at preventing rot.
The Ideal Storage Environment
Once your cannas are packed in their containers, you need to find the right "bedroom" for them to sleep in. The temperature and light levels in your storage area will determine whether your bulbs stay dormant or start to grow or rot prematurely.
The ideal temperature for saving canna bulbs is between 45°F and 55°F. If the temperature stays consistently above 60°F, the rhizomes may think it is springtime and start to sprout in the dark. If the temperature drops below 40°F, you risk the rhizomes getting frost damage, even if they are indoors.
Cool basements, unheated crawl spaces, and insulated garages are usually the best spots. Avoid storing them in a boiler room or near a water heater, as these areas are too warm and dry. Likewise, avoid uninsulated sheds in very cold climates, as the temperature inside will eventually match the freezing air outside.
Keep the containers in a dark place. Light can also signal the plant to wake up. A dark corner of the basement or a shelf in a cool closet is perfect.
Key Takeaway: Aim for a storage temperature of 45–55°F. A dark, cool, and dry location like a basement or insulated garage will keep the rhizomes dormant until spring. Before ordering replacements, review our Shipping Information.
Step-by-Step Packing Method
Now that you have your materials and your location, it is time to pack. Using the right container ensures that the rhizomes can breathe.
- Select a Container: Plastic storage bins, cardboard boxes, or even nursery pots work well. If you use a plastic bin, do not put the lid on tight. You can also drill a few small holes in the sides of the bin to allow for gas exchange.
- Create a Base Layer: Place 2 to 3 inches of your chosen packing material (like peat moss or shavings) at the bottom of the container.
- Arrange the Rhizomes: Lay the cured canna rhizomes on top of the base layer. Make sure they are not touching each other. This "social distancing" for plants ensures that if one piece happens to rot, it won't spread to its neighbors.
- Cover and Repeat: Pour more packing material over the rhizomes until they are completely covered. If you have a deep container, you can add a second layer of rhizomes on top of the first.
- Label Everything: This is a step many gardeners skip, only to regret it in the spring. Use a permanent marker to write the variety or flower color on the outside of the box or on a tag tucked inside.
Winter Maintenance: Checking Your Stash
Saving canna bulbs is not a "set it and forget it" task. To ensure the highest success rate, you should check on your rhizomes once a month throughout the winter. It only takes a few minutes and can save your entire collection.
Open your containers and feel a few of the rhizomes. If they feel firm and plump, they are doing great. If you notice any that feel mushy or have visible mold growing on them, remove them immediately and throw them away. This prevents the problem from spreading to the healthy bulbs.
On the other hand, if the rhizomes feel very light and look shriveled, they might be getting too dry. You can use a spray bottle to lightly mist the packing material with water. You do not want to make it wet; you just want to add a tiny bit of humidity back into the air. Most gardeners find they only need to do this once or twice during a very dry winter.
Saving Container-Grown Cannas
If you grow your cannas in large pots on a patio or deck, you have a shortcut available to you. You do not necessarily need to dig the rhizomes out of the soil. Instead, you can save the entire pot.
After the first frost kills the foliage, cut the stems back to the soil line. Move the entire container into a cool, frost-free area like a basement or garage. Stop watering the pot completely. The soil will dry out, and the cannas will go dormant right where they are.
In the spring, about six weeks before the last frost, you can bring the pot back into the light, give it a good soak with water, and the plants will usually start growing again. Every two or three years, however, you will still need to dump the pot out and divide the rhizomes, as they will eventually become "root-bound" and run out of space to grow. If you want to know more about Longfield Gardens, read our About Us.
Preparing to Replant in Spring
When the days start to get longer and the threat of hard frost passes, it is time to wake up your saved bulbs. This transition is an exciting part of the gardening calendar.
About four to six weeks before your area's last expected frost date, bring your storage containers into a warmer room. This gentle heat signals to the rhizomes that winter is over. You can check them for new growth—you might see small white or pink "eyes" starting to swell and push upward.
If you want to get a head start, you can plant the rhizomes in pots indoors and place them in a sunny window. This gives them a few weeks of growth so that when you finally move them outside into the warm soil, they are already well on their way to being the stars of your garden.
Safety and Care
While cannas are beautiful, it is important to remember that most garden bulbs and rhizomes should not be eaten. When you are storing them, keep them in a place where pets or curious children cannot reach them. If you have pets that like to dig or chew, ensure your storage boxes are kept on a high shelf or in a secured room.
Always wash your hands after handling rhizomes and soil. Using garden gloves during the digging and cleaning process is a great way to keep your hands clean and protected from any minor scratches or skin irritation.
Conclusion
Saving canna bulbs is one of the most practical and satisfying tasks in the fall garden. By taking just a little bit of time to lift and store these tropical treasures, you ensure that your garden remains a vibrant, lush sanctuary year after year. It is a simple cycle of growth, rest, and renewal that connects you more deeply to the rhythm of the seasons. For a dramatic foliage option, see Canna Tall Tropicanna.
At Longfield Gardens, we believe that gardening should be a source of joy, not stress. Don't worry if you don't get every single step perfect the first time—cannas are very forgiving plants. As long as you keep them cool, dry, and away from the frost, they will be ready to reward you with stunning blooms and bold foliage once the summer sun returns. For a darker statement plant, see Canna Tall Australia.
- Wait for the first frost to signal dormancy.
- Lift rhizomes carefully to avoid bruising.
- Cure the rhizomes in a dry, shaded area for a few days.
- Store in a cool (45–55°F) dark place using peat moss or shavings.
- Check monthly for moisture levels and health.
Saving your own canna rhizomes is like putting a little bit of summer in a box for safekeeping. When you open that box in the spring, you are already halfway to your most beautiful garden yet.
FAQ
Can I leave cannas in the ground if I use enough mulch?
This depends on your specific USDA zone. In Zone 7, a very thick layer (6–8 inches) of straw, leaves, or mulch can sometimes protect cannas through a mild winter. However, in Zone 6 or colder, the ground usually freezes deep enough that mulch alone will not keep the rhizomes from dying.
What happens if I dig my cannas before the first frost?
You can certainly dig them up earlier if your schedule requires it. The plants may have slightly smaller rhizomes because they didn't have those last few weeks of energy storage, but they will still survive storage just fine. Just make sure the foliage has at least started to turn yellow before you begin.
My stored canna bulbs look shriveled; are they dead?
Not necessarily. A little bit of wrinkling is normal as they lose moisture during the winter. If the rhizome still feels somewhat firm when you squeeze it, it is likely still alive. If it feels like a hollow sponge or crumbles in your hand, it has dried out too much and should be replaced.
Do I have to wash the dirt off the rhizomes before storing them?
No, washing is optional. Shaking off the majority of the soil is usually enough. Some gardeners prefer not to use water because it increases the risk of rot if the rhizomes aren't dried perfectly afterward. Brushing off dry soil with a soft glove is often the safest method.