Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Why Digging Up Canna Lilies is Necessary
- When to Dig Up Canna Lily Bulbs
- Tools You Will Need
- Step-by-Step Guide: How to Dig Up Canna Lily Bulbs
- Cleaning and Inspecting the Rhizomes
- The Curing Process
- Dividing Canna Rhizomes
- Ideal Storage Conditions
- Checking on Your Cannas During Winter
- Special Considerations for Container-Grown Cannas
- Preparing for Spring Replanting
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Introduction
The sight of canna lilies in full bloom is one of the highlights of the summer garden. Their towering stems, vibrant flowers, and lush, tropical foliage bring an unmatched energy to flower beds and patio containers. As autumn arrives and the temperatures begin to dip, it is time to think about protecting these tropical beauties so you can enjoy them again next year. If you’re looking for varieties to grow, start with Longfield Gardens’ Short Cannas and Tall Cannas. (longfield-gardens.com)
At Longfield Gardens, we believe that saving your favorite plants should be a rewarding and straightforward part of the gardening season. Lifting and storing canna rhizomes—often called "bulbs"—is an easy way to expand your garden for free and keep your favorite varieties thriving year after year. Whether you are a beginner or have years of experience, the process of digging up cannas is a satisfying way to wrap up the growing season. For more growing guidance, see the Hardiness Zone Map and the Gardening Essentials. (longfield-gardens.com)
This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about how to dig up canna lily bulbs, including the best timing, the right tools, and how to store them safely through the winter months. By following a few simple steps, you can ensure your cannas remain healthy and ready for a spectacular return next spring. If you’re shopping for a ready-made planting mix, the Canna Assorted Collection is a good place to start. (longfield-gardens.com)
Why Digging Up Canna Lilies is Necessary
Canna lilies are native to tropical and subtropical regions. This means they love the heat of summer but cannot tolerate the freezing temperatures of a typical northern winter. In many parts of the United States, particularly in USDA hardiness zones 3 through 7, the ground freezes deep enough to damage or kill the fleshy underground stems of the plant.
These underground stems are technically called rhizomes. They act as the plant’s energy storage system. When the weather gets cold, the plant needs to go dormant to survive. By digging them up, you are essentially providing them with a "winter vacation" in a controlled environment where they won’t freeze.
If you live in a warmer climate, such as zone 8 or higher, you might be able to leave your cannas in the ground with a thick layer of mulch for protection. However, even in warmer zones, many gardeners choose to dig and divide their cannas every few years to prevent overcrowding. Overcrowded cannas often produce fewer flowers and smaller leaves, so lifting them is a great way to refresh the vigor of your plants. If you need zone-based shipping timing, Longfield Gardens’ Shipping Information page explains how shipments are scheduled by hardiness zone. (longfield-gardens.com)
When to Dig Up Canna Lily Bulbs
Timing is everything when it comes to lifting cannas. You want to give the plants as much time as possible to store energy in their rhizomes, but you must get them out of the ground before the soil itself freezes solid.
The best indicator for when to start digging is the first "killing frost." This is the frost that turns the lush green foliage of your cannas to a dark brown or black color. While it might look a bit sad to see your beautiful plants wilt, this is actually a helpful signal. The cold snap tells the plant that the growing season is over, and it begins to move its remaining nutrients down into the rhizome for storage.
Wait a few days after this first frost before you begin the digging process. This short waiting period allows the plant to fully enter its dormant state. However, do not wait so long that the ground begins to freeze. If the rhizomes themselves freeze, they will turn to mush and will not survive the winter. Keeping an eye on your local weather forecast in late autumn is the best way to time this perfectly.
Key Takeaway: Wait for the first frost to blacken the foliage before digging. This signal ensures the plant has stored maximum energy for next year’s growth.
Tools You Will Need
Having the right tools on hand makes the job of digging up cannas much easier and prevents accidental damage to the rhizomes. You likely already have most of these items in your garden shed.
- Garden Fork: This is the most important tool for the job. A garden fork (or digging fork) allows you to lift the soil and the rhizomes without the high risk of slicing through them, which often happens with a sharp spade or shovel.
- Pruning Shears or a Small Garden Saw: You will need these to cut back the thick, fleshy stalks of the canna lilies.
- Garden Gloves: Canna stalks can be slippery and messy, and the soil may be cold and damp. A good pair of gloves will keep your hands protected.
- Soft Brush: A simple paintbrush or a soft-bristled hand brush is helpful for gently removing excess soil from the rhizomes once they are out of the ground.
- Labels and a Waterproof Marker: If you grow more than one variety of canna, you will definitely want to label them. Once the rhizomes are out of the ground, they all look very similar. For more basic garden planning help, visit Gardening Essentials. (longfield-gardens.com)
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Dig Up Canna Lily Bulbs
Once the foliage has been hit by frost and you have your tools ready, it is time to get to work. Follow these steps for a successful harvest.
Step 1: Cut Back the Foliage
Before you start digging, you need to clear away the top growth. Use your pruning shears or a garden saw to cut the stalks down. We recommend leaving about 2 to 4 inches of the stem attached to the rhizome. This small "stump" acts as a convenient handle when you are lifting and moving the plants. It also helps you identify which side of the rhizome is "up" when it comes time to replant in the spring. Dispose of the blackened foliage in your compost pile, provided the plants were healthy and free of pests.
Step 2: Loosen the Soil
The most common mistake when digging up cannas is digging too close to the center of the plant. Canna rhizomes grow outward and can spread quite far from the original planting spot.
Start by placing your garden fork in the soil about 12 inches away from the base of the stalks. Gently push the fork into the ground and rock it back and forth to loosen the earth. Move in a circle around the entire clump, loosening the soil as you go. This "circle of safety" ensures that you won't accidentally spear a large rhizome with the tines of your fork.
Step 3: Lift the Clump
Once the soil is loose all the way around, slide your fork deeper under the center of the clump. Use the handle of the fork as a lever to gently pry the entire mass of rhizomes upward. Depending on how long your cannas have been in the ground, this clump can be quite heavy and large. If it feels stuck, do not force it. Instead, go back around with the fork and loosen the soil a bit more.
Step 4: Shake Off Excess Soil
Lift the clump out of the hole and gently shake it to remove the largest chunks of soil. At this stage, the soil might be damp and clingy. Use your hands or a soft brush to clear away enough dirt so you can see the individual rhizomes. You do not need to scrub them perfectly clean or wash them with a hose. In fact, keeping the rhizomes dry is a priority, so avoid using water to clean them if possible.
What to Do Next:
- Cut stems to 3 inches.
- Loosen soil 12 inches out from the stem.
- Pry the clump up gently with a fork.
- Shake off loose dirt by hand.
Cleaning and Inspecting the Rhizomes
Once the cannas are out of the ground, take a few minutes to inspect your harvest. Healthy canna rhizomes should feel firm to the touch, much like a fresh potato. They are typically light tan or white in color, though some varieties may have a reddish or purple tint to the skin.
As you clean them, look for any soft spots, signs of rot, or damage from garden pests. If you find a section of a rhizome that feels mushy or looks shriveled and dark, use a clean knife to trim that part away. Only store firm, healthy rhizomes.
If you accidentally sliced a rhizome with your fork during the digging process, don't worry. These plants are very resilient. Simply let the cut end air-dry for a few extra days to "callous" over before you put it into storage. This hard, dry skin acts as a barrier against rot.
The Curing Process
Curing is a vital step that many gardeners overlook. Curing simply means letting the rhizomes dry out slightly in a protected area before they are packed away for the winter. This process helps the outer skin toughen up and ensures that excess moisture—the primary cause of winter rot—is removed.
Place your cleaned rhizomes in a single layer on a tray, a piece of cardboard, or a screen. Keep them in a dry, well-ventilated area that is out of direct sunlight and protected from frost. A garage, a shed, or a covered porch works perfectly.
Leave them to cure for about 3 to 7 days. You will notice the outer skin becoming a bit more paper-like and any remaining soil turning into a dry dust that is easy to brush away. After a few days of curing, your cannas are ready for their long winter nap.
Dividing Canna Rhizomes
One of the most exciting parts of digging up cannas is seeing how much they have grown. A single rhizome planted in the spring will often turn into a large, multi-stemmed clump by autumn. You can choose to store the entire clump as one piece, but many gardeners find it easier to divide them now.
Dividing your cannas makes storage more manageable and gives you more plants to share with friends or to fill new areas of your garden next year. To divide them, look for the "eyes" on the rhizome. These are the small, rounded bumps where new growth will emerge.
Using a sharp, clean knife, cut the large clump into smaller sections. Each section should have at least one or two healthy eyes and a decent portion of the fleshy rhizome to provide energy for the new sprout. If you divide them now, make sure to let the cut surfaces cure for a few days before packing them away. If you want a compact plant for smaller spaces, Canna Short Pink Magic is one option, while Canna Short Orange Chocolate offers dramatic foliage. (longfield-gardens.com)
Ideal Storage Conditions
The goal of winter storage is to keep the rhizomes dormant, cool, and just moist enough that they don't shrivel up completely. If the storage area is too warm, the cannas might try to grow prematurely. If it is too cold, they will freeze. If it is too damp, they will rot.
Temperature and Light
The ideal temperature for storing canna lilies is between 40°F and 50°F. An unheated basement, a crawl space, or a cool closet in a mudroom are often the best spots. Avoid areas near furnaces or water heaters, as these will be too warm and dry. The storage area should also be dark, as light can signal the plant to wake up too early.
Storage Mediums
You don't want to leave the rhizomes completely exposed to the air, as they can dry out and become "mummified." Instead, we recommend tucking them into a storage medium that regulates moisture. Common choices include:
- Peat Moss: This is a popular choice because it holds just a tiny bit of moisture but stays airy.
- Vermiculite or Perlite: These are sterile and excellent for preventing rot while maintaining a consistent environment.
- Wood Shavings: Common cedar or pine shavings (the kind used for pet bedding) are inexpensive and work very well.
- Paper Bags or Cardboard Boxes: These allow the rhizomes to breathe while keeping them organized and dark.
Line a cardboard box or a plastic bin (with the lid left slightly ajar for ventilation) with a few inches of your chosen medium. Place the rhizomes inside so they aren't touching each other, then cover them with more of the medium. For broader seasonal shopping, browse Shipping Information and Longfield Gardens’ 100% Guarantee. (longfield-gardens.com)
Key Takeaway: Storage is about balance. Aim for a cool, dark place (40-50°F) and use a dry medium like peat moss to prevent shriveling.
Checking on Your Cannas During Winter
Gardening is a continuous process of observation. It is a good idea to check on your stored canna rhizomes about once a month throughout the winter. This "winter wellness check" allows you to catch potential issues before they ruin your whole collection.
When you check them, feel a few of the rhizomes. If they feel extremely dry, brittle, or look shriveled, they may be losing too much moisture. You can lightly mist the storage medium with a spray bottle of water to add a touch of humidity. Be careful not to make the medium wet; you just want it to be barely damp.
On the other hand, if you notice any rhizomes that have become soft, mushy, or have a fuzzy mold growing on them, remove them immediately. This prevents the rot from spreading to the healthy rhizomes in the container. By spending five minutes a month checking your stock, you ensure a high success rate when spring finally arrives.
Special Considerations for Container-Grown Cannas
If you grow your canna lilies in pots, you have a couple of options for the winter. Some gardeners prefer to dig them out of the pots and follow the same storage steps mentioned above. This is often best if the container is small or if you want to divide the plants for next year.
However, a simpler method is to leave the rhizomes right in the pot. Once the foliage has been hit by frost, cut the stalks down to the soil level. Move the entire pot into a cool, frost-free area like a garage or basement. Stop watering the pot completely. The soil will dry out, and the cannas will go dormant in place. In the spring, you can simply bring the pot back out, refresh the top few inches of soil, and start watering again to wake them up.
Preparing for Spring Replanting
As the days get longer and the threat of frost begins to fade, you will likely see your cannas starting to "peek" out from their storage medium. Small white or green sprouts appearing on the rhizomes is a sign that they are ready for the new season.
In most parts of the country, we recommend waiting until the soil temperature reaches at least 60°F before planting your cannas back into the garden. If you want to get a head start, you can pot them up indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date. This gives them a "jump start" and often results in earlier blooms during the summer.
When you are ready to plant, remember the simple rules of canna success: plenty of sun, rich soil, and consistent moisture. After their winter rest, these rhizomes will be full of energy and ready to grow into the tropical giants that make the summer garden so special. For more inspiration, the Canna Assorted Collection and Tall Cannas are both strong options. (longfield-gardens.com)
Conclusion
Digging up canna lily bulbs is a rewarding tradition that marks the end of one successful season and the beginning of another. By following these practical steps, you can protect your investment and enjoy a more beautiful garden year after year. Our team at Longfield Gardens is always here to support your gardening journey with quality plants and straightforward advice. If you want to learn more about the company behind the plants, visit About Us. (longfield-gardens.com)
- Wait for the first frost to signal dormancy.
- Use a garden fork to lift the rhizomes safely.
- Cure the rhizomes in a dry, cool spot for a few days.
- Store in a cool, dark place (40-50°F) in a medium like peat moss.
Lifting cannas is more than just a chore; it is a way to preserve the life and color of your garden across the seasons. With a little care, these tropical rhizomes will reward you with years of spectacular beauty.
Ready to add more color to your landscape? Browse our selection of summer-blooming bulbs and perennials at Longfield Gardens to find the perfect companions for your cannas. (longfield-gardens.com)
FAQ
Can I leave my canna lilies in the ground over winter?
This depends entirely on your location. If you live in USDA zones 8 through 11, cannas can usually stay in the ground if you apply a thick layer of mulch to protect the roots from occasional light frosts. In zones 7 and colder, the ground freezes deep enough to kill the rhizomes, so digging them up is the only way to ensure they survive.
What happens if I dig them up before the first frost?
You can dig them up earlier if you need to, but the plants may not have stored as much energy as they would have after a frost. The frost acts as a natural signal for the plant to move all its nutrients from the leaves down into the rhizome. If you must dig early, try to wait until the weather has at least cooled down significantly. For zone-specific guidance, review the Hardiness Zone Map. (longfield-gardens.com)
Do I need to wash the rhizomes with a hose before storing them?
We recommend avoiding the use of water to clean your canna rhizomes. Excess moisture is the leading cause of rot during winter storage. It is much safer to let the soil dry and then gently brush it off with your hands or a soft brush. If you must wash them due to heavy clay soil, ensure they are allowed to dry completely in a well-ventilated area for several days.
Why did my stored canna rhizomes turn to mush?
Mushy rhizomes are almost always a sign of rot caused by too much moisture or freezing temperatures during storage. To prevent this next year, ensure the rhizomes are properly cured (dried) before packing them away. Also, check that your storage medium is not wet and that the storage area stays between 40°F and 50°F. Always discard mushy rhizomes immediately so the rot does not spread.