How to Dig Up Canna Lily Bulbs for Winter

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Understanding Canna Lily Rhizomes
3. When to Dig Up Canna Lily Bulbs
4. Essential Tools for the Job
5. Step-by-Step Guide to Lifting Cannas
6. Cleaning and Inspecting the Rhizomes
7. Dividing Cannas for More Plants
8. The Importance of Curing
9. Selecting the Right Storage Medium
10. Where to Store Your Canna Bulbs
11. Winter Maintenance and Monitoring
12. Wintering Over Potted Cannas
13. Spring Reawakening: Getting Ready to Replant
14. Conclusion
15. FAQ

Introduction

There is something undeniably magical about the presence of canna lilies in a summer garden. Their towering stalks, lush tropical foliage, and vibrant blooms bring an exotic energy to any backyard landscape. Whether you love the fiery reds of a classic variety or the dramatic stripes of variegated leaves, these plants are often the stars of the show. At Longfield Gardens, we believe every gardener should enjoy these spectacular blooms season after season.

Because cannas are tropical plants, they thrive in the heat of summer but cannot withstand the freezing temperatures of northern winters. For especially tall plants, browse Tall Cannas. If you live in a region where the ground freezes, you will need to dig up canna lily bulbs—technically known as rhizomes—to keep them safe until spring. This process is a rewarding fall ritual that allows you to save your favorite varieties and even increase your plant collection for free. If you're unsure how your climate is classified, the USDA Hardiness Zone Map is a helpful reference.

This guide will walk you through the entire process, from timing your harvest to ensuring your rhizomes stay healthy in storage. We have designed these steps to be simple and accessible for gardeners of all experience levels. Lifting and storing your cannas is a straightforward way to protect your investment and prepare for another beautiful growing season.

Digging up canna rhizomes is one of the easiest ways to ensure your garden remains vibrant and tropical year after year without needing to buy new plants every spring.

Understanding Canna Lily Rhizomes

Before you pick up a shovel, it helps to understand what you are actually digging up. For more background, read All About Cannas. Although many people call them "bulbs," cannas actually grow from rhizomes. A rhizome is a thick, fleshy underground stem that grows horizontally. It acts as a storage unit for the plant, holding the energy and nutrients needed to sprout new growth when the weather warms up.

In tropical climates (USDA zones 8 through 10), cannas can stay in the ground year-round. In these warmer areas, the soil does not freeze deep enough to damage the rhizomes. However, in zones 7 and colder, the winter chill will turn these fleshy stems into mush if they are left unprotected. By lifting them out of the ground, you are simply moving them to a "dormant" state in a controlled environment.

When you dig up a canna that has been growing all summer, you will likely notice it is much larger than the piece you originally planted. Cannas are vigorous growers. A single rhizome can turn into a large, heavy clump over the course of a few months. This growth is a sign of a healthy plant and gives you the perfect opportunity to divide them and expand your garden. If you want a fresh color option for next season, browse Canna Medium Banana Punch.

What to Do Next: Check Your Garden

• Identify which canna varieties you want to save for next year.
• Locate the base of the stems so you know exactly where to dig.
• Check your local weather forecast for the first signs of frost.
• Clear some space in a cool, dry area for the upcoming storage.

When to Dig Up Canna Lily Bulbs

Timing is everything when it comes to harvesting canna rhizomes. You want to give the plant as much time as possible to store energy, but you must act before the ground freezes solid. The best signal to start the process is provided by nature itself: the first light frost of autumn. For step-by-step timing tips, see How to Keep Canna Lily Bulbs Over Winter.

A light frost will usually turn the lush green or bronze leaves of your cannas to a dark brown or black color. While this might look disappointing, it is actually a helpful sign. This frost tells the plant that the growing season is over and it is time to go dormant. The foliage dies back, but the rhizomes remain safe and snug beneath the soil surface.

Wait for this first frost to occur before you begin digging. The period between the first frost and the first hard freeze is your "harvest window." Usually, this gives you a week or two of flexibility. If you dig too early while the leaves are still bright green, the rhizomes may not have stored enough energy for the winter. If you wait too long and the ground freezes several inches deep, the rhizomes could be damaged.

Watching the Weather

If you live in an area with unpredictable autumn weather, keep a close eye on the nighttime lows. If a hard freeze is predicted—where temperatures stay well below 32°F for several hours—it is time to get outside. Most gardeners find that late October or early November is the sweet spot for this task.

The first frost is a natural "off switch" for cannas, signaling that the energy has moved from the leaves down into the rhizome for winter storage.

Essential Tools for the Job

You do not need a shed full of expensive equipment to dig up canna lily bulbs. A few basic garden tools will make the job quick and easy. Having everything ready before you start will ensure the process goes smoothly and prevents unnecessary stress.

First, you will need a sturdy digging tool. A garden fork is often the best choice because it allows you to lift the soil and the rhizomes without cutting through the fleshy stems as easily as a sharp spade might. However, a traditional pointed shovel or spade works perfectly well if you are careful with your placement.

You will also need a pair of sharp garden pruners or a small garden saw. Canna stems can be quite thick and fibrous, especially by the end of a long summer. Clean, sharp blades will make the cutting process much easier and leave a clean wound on the plant, which reduces the risk of rot during storage.

Gathering Your Supplies

• Garden fork or shovel: For lifting the heavy clumps of rhizomes.
• Pruners or loppers: For cutting back the tall stalks.
• Garden hose: To gently wash away excess soil.
• Labeling materials: Waterproof markers and tags to identify varieties.
• Storage containers: Cardboard boxes, plastic bins, or paper bags.
• Packing medium: Peat moss, vermiculite, or even old newspapers.

Step-by-Step Guide to Lifting Cannas

Once the first frost has arrived and you have your tools ready, it is time to get to work. Follow these steps to ensure you lift your cannas safely without damaging the delicate rhizomes.

Step 1: Cut Back the Foliage

Before you start digging, you need to clear away the top growth. Use your pruners or loppers to cut the canna stalks down to about 2 to 4 inches above the soil line. Removing the bulky leaves makes it much easier to see what you are doing and gives you a "handle" to hold onto later. You can compost the healthy foliage, but if the leaves show signs of disease or pests, it is better to dispose of them in the trash.

Step 2: Loosen the Soil

Position your garden fork or shovel about 6 to 12 inches away from the base of the stalks. You want to avoid hitting the rhizomes directly. Dig straight down into the soil all the way around the plant to loosen the earth. This creates a circle of loose soil that makes lifting the entire clump much easier.

Step 3: Lift the Clump

Gently pry the clump upward. Canna rhizomes can be surprisingly heavy, especially if your soil is damp. Use the leftover stems as a handle to help guide the clump out of the ground. If the plant feels stuck, do not pull too hard, as this can snap the rhizomes. Instead, dig a little deeper or further out until the clump moves freely.

Step 4: Initial Cleaning

Once the clump is out of the ground, shake it gently to remove large chunks of soil. You can use your hands to brush away loose dirt. At this stage, you don't need to get them perfectly clean, but removing the bulk of the garden soil will help the rhizomes dry faster.

Pro Tip: Always work on a dry day if possible. Lifting rhizomes out of muddy soil is much more difficult and messy than working with relatively dry earth.

Cleaning and Inspecting the Rhizomes

After lifting your cannas, they need a bit of attention before they head into storage. Proper cleaning and inspection are the best ways to prevent rot and disease from spreading during the winter months.

While some gardeners prefer to keep a bit of soil on the rhizomes, many find that a gentle rinse with a garden hose is helpful. Use a soft stream of water to wash away the remaining dirt. This allows you to see the health of the rhizome clearly. You are looking for firm, light-colored flesh. Avoid scrubbing the rhizomes, as their "skin" is relatively thin and can be easily bruised or scratched.

Once the rhizomes are clean, take a close look at each clump. This is the time to remove any parts that look unhealthy. If you see soft, mushy spots or areas that look like they are rotting, use a clean knife to trim them away. You should also trim off any long, thin roots that are hanging off the main fleshy stems. These small roots will naturally die back during storage anyway.

What to Do Next: The Inspection Checklist

• Rinse away enough soil to see the surface of the rhizomes.
• Identify and trim away any soft or mushy sections.
• Snip off long, trailing hair-like roots.
• Ensure each clump has at least one "eye" or growing point for next year.

Dividing Cannas for More Plants

One of the most exciting parts of digging up canna lily bulbs is realizing how much they have grown. A single rhizome planted in May can easily turn into a massive clump with five or ten potential new plants by October. Dividing your cannas is the easiest way to get more flowers for your garden or to share with friends and neighbors.

You can divide your cannas either in the fall after digging or in the spring before planting. Many gardeners prefer to do it in the fall because the clumps are easier to handle once the soil is removed. To divide them, look for the natural "joints" in the rhizome. You want to break or cut the clump into smaller sections.

Each new section must have at least one "eye." These eyes look like small, rounded bumps or points on the rhizome, similar to the eyes on a potato. This is where the new growth will emerge in the spring. A section with two or three eyes is even better, as it will produce a fuller plant faster. If you use a knife to make the cuts, ensure it is sharp and clean to prevent the spread of bacteria.

Dividing your cannas every year or two prevents the clumps from becoming too crowded and ensures each plant has enough space to grow vigorously.

The Importance of Curing

Curing is a step that many beginners skip, but it is vital for long-term storage success. Curing is simply the process of letting the rhizomes air-dry for a few days before you pack them away. This allows the outer skin to toughen up and any cut surfaces to "callus" over.

After cleaning and dividing, spread your rhizomes out in a single layer. A garage, shed, or covered porch is an ideal spot. You want a place that is out of direct sunlight but has good air circulation. Temperatures between 60°F and 70°F are perfect for this stage.

Let the rhizomes dry for about 3 to 7 days. You will know they are ready when the surfaces feel dry to the touch and any cut ends look dry and firm rather than wet. If the weather is particularly humid, they may need a full week. Don't worry about them shriveling up; canna rhizomes are hardy and can handle a few days of air-drying without losing their vitality.

Curing Tips

• Keep the rhizomes in a single layer so air can reach all sides.
• Avoid areas where they might get wet from rain.
• Label your varieties during this stage so you don't get them mixed up.
• Check them daily to ensure no mold is forming.

Selecting the Right Storage Medium

Once your canna rhizomes are cured and dry, they need a cozy place to spend the winter. You cannot simply throw them in a plastic bag and forget about them. They need a storage medium that manages moisture—keeping them from drying out completely while preventing them from becoming too damp and rotting.

There are several excellent options for packing your rhizomes. Peat moss is the most popular choice because it is sterile and holds just the right amount of moisture. Vermiculite and perlite are also great options. Some gardeners even use wood shavings or sawdust, provided the wood is not chemically treated.

If you prefer a simpler approach, you can wrap individual rhizomes in several layers of old newspaper. This provides a breathable barrier that keeps them separated. Regardless of the medium you choose, the goal is to keep the rhizomes from touching each other. If one rhizome happens to develop rot, the storage medium acts as a buffer to prevent the rot from spreading to the rest of the batch.

Key Takeaway: The perfect storage environment is one that balances humidity. You want the rhizomes to stay firm and hydrated without ever feeling wet or soggy.

Where to Store Your Canna Bulbs

Finding the right location for your stored cannas is the final piece of the puzzle. The ideal storage spot is cool, dark, and dry. You want a temperature range between 40°F and 50°F. If the area is too warm, the rhizomes might try to start growing too early. If it is too cold and the temperature drops below freezing, the rhizomes will die.

A cool basement, a crawl space, or a root cellar are usually the best locations in a typical home. An attached garage can work, but you must be careful that the temperature does not drop too low during a mid-winter cold snap. Avoid storing them near a furnace or water heater, as the dry heat will cause the rhizomes to shrivel.

Place your packed containers on a shelf rather than directly on a concrete floor, which can sometimes be too cold or damp. If you are using plastic bins, keep the lids slightly ajar or drill a few small holes in the sides to allow for air exchange. Cardboard boxes are naturally breathable and are an excellent choice for winter storage.

Choosing Your Storage Spot

• Basements: Usually offer the most consistent temperatures.
• Crawl Spaces: Good for keeping things cool and dark.
• Unheated Closets: A great option for those in apartments or smaller homes.
• Avoid Attics: These tend to fluctuate too much in temperature.

Winter Maintenance and Monitoring

Your job isn't quite finished once the cannas are tucked away. It is a good practice to check on your stored rhizomes about once a month throughout the winter. This only takes a few minutes but can save your entire collection if an issue arises.

When you check them, look for two main things: rot and shriveling. If you find a rhizome that has become soft or smelly, remove it immediately and throw it away. This prevents the rot from spreading to healthy neighbors. If the rhizomes look very shriveled or feel excessively light and "corky," they might be too dry.

If they are drying out too much, you can lightly mist the storage medium with a little bit of water. You only want to add a tiny bit of moisture—just enough to keep the air around the rhizome slightly humid. Never pour water directly into the box, as standing water is a recipe for disaster. Most of the time, if you packed them correctly, they won't need any extra moisture at all.

Monthly Checkup Steps

• Open the storage containers and check for any "off" smells.
• Gently squeeze a few rhizomes to ensure they are still firm.
• Discard any pieces that show signs of mold or decay.
• Lightly mist the packing material only if it feels bone-dry.

Wintering Over Potted Cannas

If you grow your cannas in containers, you have a shortcut available. You don't necessarily need to dig the rhizomes out of the soil. Instead, you can overwinter the entire pot. This is a great option for gardeners who have limited time or space for curing and packing. For other container-friendly picks, see Summer Blooming Bulbs for Containers.

Once the frost hits and you cut back the foliage, move the entire pot into your cool storage area. Stop watering completely and let the soil dry out. The dry soil acts as a natural storage medium for the rhizomes. In the spring, you can simply bring the pot back outside, start watering again, and wait for the new shoots to appear.

Keep in mind that cannas grow very fast. If your canna has been in the same pot all summer, the rhizomes might be "root-bound" or taking up all the space in the container. In this case, it is still a good idea to tip the pot over, remove the clump, and divide it every year or two. If you prefer a shorter habit for containers, browse Short Cannas. This ensures your container plants have enough fresh soil and room to thrive in the coming season.

Storing cannas in their pots is the ultimate "easy button" for fall garden chores, provided you have a frost-free space to keep the containers.

Spring Reawakening: Getting Ready to Replant

As the days get longer and the threat of frost passes, it is time to think about bringing your cannas back into the garden. This transition usually happens in late spring, once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F.

A few weeks before you plan to plant them outside, take the rhizomes out of storage for a final inspection. They should still be firm and may even show the very beginnings of small white or pink sprouts. If any feel hollow or completely dried out, you can discard them. For an extra head start, some gardeners like to "wake up" their cannas indoors by planting them in pots in a sunny window a month before the last frost.

When you are ready to plant them in the ground, choose a spot with full sun—at least six hours of direct light. For a mid-size option, browse Medium Cannas. Dig a hole about 4 inches deep and lay the rhizome horizontally with the "eyes" facing upward. Cover with soil, water them in well, and get ready for another summer of spectacular tropical beauty. We take pride in helping you achieve these results at Longfield Gardens, and we love seeing how these plants transform a yard.

Conclusion

Digging up canna lily bulbs is a simple, satisfying task that bridges the gap between the end of one growing season and the promise of the next. By following these steps—waiting for the frost, lifting carefully, curing thoroughly, and storing in a cool spot—you can preserve your favorite varieties for a lifetime. This cycle of growth and rest is one of the most rewarding parts of gardening.

• Wait for the first frost to signal the start of dormancy.
• Cure rhizomes for a few days to prevent rot.
• Store in a cool, frost-free location between 40°F and 50°F.
• Check monthly to ensure your plants stay healthy and firm.

Gardening is a journey of learning and growth, and saving your own cannas is a great way to deepen your connection to your outdoor space. If you are ordering replacements for spring, review Shipping Information. If you are looking to add even more variety to your collection, we invite you to explore our selection of premium rhizomes and perennials. With our 100% Quality Guarantee, you can shop with confidence.

The effort you put into your garden today is the foundation for the beauty you will enjoy tomorrow.

FAQ

Can I leave my canna lilies in the ground if I live in zone 7?

In zone 7, cannas are on the edge of hardiness. They will often survive a mild winter if you cut them back and apply a thick layer of mulch (6–8 inches) for insulation. However, in an unusually cold winter, they may still perish, so many gardeners in this zone choose to dig them up just to be safe.

What happens if I don't wait for a frost to dig them up?

You can dig up cannas before the first frost, but it is not ideal. The frost acts as a signal for the plant to move all its remaining energy into the rhizome. Digging early may result in smaller, less vigorous rhizomes that have a harder time surviving the winter or blooming the following year.

Do I have to use peat moss for storage?

No, peat moss is just one option. You can use vermiculite, perlite, coconut coir, or even shredded paper. The most important factor is that the medium is slightly breathable and not soaking wet. Some people even have success simply wrapping the dry rhizomes in newspaper and placing them in a cardboard box.

How do I know if my canna rhizomes have rotted during the winter?

Check the texture of the rhizome. Healthy rhizomes should feel firm, similar to a fresh ginger root or a potato. If the rhizome feels squishy, mushy, or slimy, it has rotted. You may also notice a sour or unpleasant odor, which is a clear sign that the piece should be discarded immediately.