Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Why Saving Canna Lily Bulbs is Worth the Effort
- Knowing When to Dig Your Cannas
- Tools and Preparation for the Fall Harvest
- Step-by-Step: How to Lift Canna Rhizomes
- Cleaning and Curing Your Rhizomes
- How to Divide Cannas for More Plants
- Choosing Your Storage Medium
- Finding the Perfect Winter Storage Spot
- Maintaining Your Bulbs Throughout the Winter
- Overwintering Cannas in Containers
- Transitioning Back to the Garden in Spring
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Introduction
There is nothing quite like the tropical drama of a canna lily in full bloom. With their oversized, paddle-like leaves and vibrant clusters of flowers, cannas transform a standard backyard into a lush getaway. The best part of growing these sun-loving beauties is that they get better with age. As the season winds down and the air turns crisp, you have a wonderful opportunity to preserve that beauty for next summer.
Learning how to save canna lily bulbs—which are technically called rhizomes—is one of the most rewarding skills a gardener can master. At Longfield Gardens, we enjoy helping gardeners extend the life of their plants so they can enjoy a more impressive display each passing year. Saving your own rhizomes allows you to keep your favorite colors and even expand your garden through simple division. The Canna Assorted Collection is another easy place to start.
In this guide, we will walk you through the entire process of lifting, curing, and storing your cannas. Whether you are a beginner or looking to refine your technique, these steps will help you keep your plants healthy through the winter months. By following a few simple rules of timing and care, you can ensure your cannas return bigger and bolder than ever. For even more vertical impact, browse Tall Cannas.
Saving your canna lily bulbs is a straightforward process that protects your investment and rewards you with a spectacular garden year after year.
Why Saving Canna Lily Bulbs is Worth the Effort
While some gardeners treat cannas as annuals, there are several reasons why lifting and storing them is the better choice. First, canna rhizomes grow significantly over a single season. A small rhizome planted in May can easily triple in size by October. When you save these bulbs, you are starting the next year with a much larger, more established plant that will produce more flowers and taller foliage.
Second, saving your own stock is cost-effective. Instead of buying new plants every spring, you can use that part of your gardening budget to try new varieties or garden accessories. It is also a great way to ensure you keep specific varieties you love, such as the dark-leaved 'Wyoming' or the striking City of Portland, which may not always be available locally.
Finally, there is a deep sense of satisfaction in the cycle of the seasons. Tucking your plants away for their "winter nap" and seeing the first sprouts of green in the spring is a joy that defines the gardening experience. It connects you to the natural rhythm of your landscape in a way that buying new plants every year simply cannot match. For another mid-size option, see Canna Medium The President.
Knowing When to Dig Your Cannas
Timing is everything when you want to save canna lily bulbs. If you dig them too early, the rhizomes may not have stored enough energy for the winter. If you wait too long, a deep freeze can damage the fleshy roots and cause them to rot later in storage.
For most gardeners in USDA zones 7 and colder, the signal to start digging is the first frost. A light frost will turn the canna’s lush green or burgundy leaves to a dark, soggy brown. This may look a bit sad, but it is actually a good sign. The frost tells the plant to stop growing and send all its remaining energy down into the rhizome. If you're not sure which zone you garden in, check the Hardiness Zone Map.
If you live in a region where frost comes very late, you can still dig your cannas in late autumn once the weather consistently stays in the 40s. The goal is to get them out of the ground before the soil itself freezes. A frozen crust on the soil surface is okay, but you do not want the frost to reach the depth where the rhizomes are buried.
Key Takeaway: Wait for the first light frost to blacken the foliage before digging. This natural cue ensures the rhizomes are fully dormant and ready for storage.
Tools and Preparation for the Fall Harvest
Before you head out to the garden, gather the right tools to make the job easier. Having everything ready ensures the process goes quickly and minimizes the time the rhizomes spend exposed to the elements.
- Garden Fork: This is the best tool for the job. Unlike a shovel, which has a solid blade that can easily slice through a rhizome, a garden fork has tines that can lift the soil and the plant without causing as much damage.
- Pruning Shears or a Small Saw: You will need these to cut back the thick, fibrous stalks.
- Garden Hose: A gentle stream of water is helpful for cleaning off heavy clay soil.
- Labels and Markers: If you grow several different colors or varieties, labeling them now is vital. It is impossible to tell the difference between a yellow and a red canna just by looking at the dormant rhizome.
- Cardboard Boxes or Trays: These are perfect for the initial drying phase.
Start by cutting the stalks down to about 4 to 6 inches above the ground. This "handle" makes it much easier to lift the clump and move it around. It also keeps you from accidentally stepping on the rhizomes while you work.
Step-by-Step: How to Lift Canna Rhizomes
Lifting cannas is a physical task, but it shouldn't feel like a chore. Think of it as a treasure hunt for the roots that will power your garden next year.
- Loosen the Soil: Start about a foot away from the base of the stems. Cannas have a wide reach, and you want to avoid hitting the rhizomes with your fork. Gently push the fork into the soil and rock it back and forth to loosen the earth.
- Work in a Circle: Move around the plant, loosening the soil in a wide circle. This breaks the tension of the roots and makes the final lift much easier.
- Lift the Clump: Slide the fork deep under the center of the plant and lift upward. If the clump is very large, you might need to lift it in sections, but try to keep as much of the structure intact as possible for now.
- Shake Off Excess Soil: Gently shake the clump to remove large chunks of dirt. Be careful not to bang the rhizomes against hard surfaces, as they can bruise.
At this stage, you will see a tangled mass of fleshy, white or pinkish roots. These are your rhizomes. Don't worry if a few smaller roots break off; the main fleshy "bulbs" are what matter for next year.
Cleaning and Curing Your Rhizomes
Once the cannas are out of the ground, they need a little bit of grooming before they go into storage. For a broader overview, see All About Cannas.
First, decide how much soil to remove. If your soil is sandy and falls away easily, you can simply brush it off. If you have heavy clay soil, you may want to use a hose to gently rinse the rhizomes. However, if you wash them, you must be extra diligent about drying them. Excess moisture is the primary enemy of a stored bulb.
After cleaning, lay the rhizomes out in a single layer in a frost-free, well-ventilated area. A garage, a shed, or even a covered porch works well. Let them sit for about 3 to 7 days. This "curing" period allows the outer skin of the rhizome to toughen up and any cuts to callous over. This protective layer acts as a barrier against fungus and moisture loss during the long winter months.
What to do next:
- Check for any soft spots or signs of insect damage and discard those pieces.
- Ensure the "handles" you left on the stalks are dry to the touch.
- Label each variety using a waterproof marker or a tag tied to the stalk.
How to Divide Cannas for More Plants
One of the best things about cannas is how quickly they multiply. When you save canna lily bulbs, you will often find that a single plant has turned into a massive clump. You can divide these clumps either in the fall after curing or in the spring before planting.
To divide them, look for the "eyes." These are the small, pointed bumps on the rhizome where new growth will emerge—similar to the eyes on a potato. A healthy division should have at least two or three of these eyes and a decent amount of the fleshy rhizome attached to provide energy.
You can usually pull the rhizomes apart by hand, but if the clump is very dense, use a clean, sharp knife. If you use a knife, it is a good idea to let the cut pieces dry for an extra day so the wounds can heal before they go into storage. This simple step can double or triple your garden size for the following year!
Choosing Your Storage Medium
You cannot simply throw canna rhizomes into a plastic bin and expect them to survive. They need to stay hydrated enough that they don't shrivel up into "mummies," but dry enough that they don't turn into a mushy mess. This balance is achieved by using a storage medium.
At Longfield Gardens, we recommend using materials that can breathe. Common choices include:
- Peat Moss: This is a classic choice because it holds just a tiny bit of moisture while remaining airy.
- Vermiculite or Perlite: These are lightweight and excellent for managing moisture levels.
- Wood Shavings or Sawdust: Make sure these are from untreated wood. They provide great insulation.
- Newspaper: Wrapping individual rhizomes in several layers of dry newspaper is an old-fashioned but very effective method.
Place a layer of your chosen medium in the bottom of a cardboard box or a plastic bin with holes drilled in the sides for ventilation. Lay the rhizomes on top so they aren't touching each other, then cover them with more medium. This "nesting" approach protects them from temperature fluctuations and prevents rot from spreading if one bulb happens to go bad.
Finding the Perfect Winter Storage Spot
The environment where you keep your boxes is just as important as how you pack them. Cannas are tropical plants, but they need to be dormant to survive the winter. This means they need a spot that is cool and dark.
The ideal temperature range is between 40°F and 50°F. If the temperature stays above 60°F, the rhizomes might think it is spring and start to grow prematurely. If the temperature drops below freezing, the water inside the fleshy cells will expand and destroy the plant.
Ideal storage locations often include:
- An unheated (but attached) garage.
- A cool basement or crawl space.
- A root cellar.
- A dark closet in a cool part of the house.
Avoid spots near furnaces, water heaters, or drafty windows. You want the temperature to stay as consistent as possible throughout the winter.
Maintaining Your Bulbs Throughout the Winter
Saving canna lily bulbs is not quite a "set it and forget it" task. To ensure the highest success rate, you should check on your "guests" once a month. This small effort can save an entire box of plants.
Open your boxes and feel a few of the rhizomes. They should feel firm and heavy, like a fresh ginger root. If you notice any that are turning soft or smelling sour, remove them immediately and throw them away. This prevents rot from spreading to the healthy bulbs nearby.
If the rhizomes feel very light and look wrinkled, they are losing too much moisture. You can lightly mist the storage medium with a spray bottle to add a tiny bit of humidity. Be very careful—you don't want the medium to be wet, just barely damp to the touch. Most of the time, if you used peat moss or newspaper, the natural humidity in a basement is enough to keep them healthy.
"A quick monthly check-in is the secret to a high survival rate. It takes only five minutes to ensure your garden's future is secure."
Overwintering Cannas in Containers
If you grow your cannas in large pots, you have a bit of a shortcut! You don't necessarily have to dig them up. Instead, you can store the entire pot, which protects the roots and saves you the labor of digging. If you want a compact option for containers, browse Short Cannas.
Once the frost has hit and you have cut back the foliage, move the entire container to your cool, dark storage spot. Stop watering the soil completely. The soil in the pot acts as a natural storage medium, insulating the rhizomes and keeping them at a steady humidity level.
In the spring, you can pull the clump out of the pot, refresh the soil, divide the rhizomes if they have become too crowded, and start the growing process again. This is an excellent option for patio gardeners or those with limited time in the fall.
Transitioning Back to the Garden in Spring
The excitement of saving canna lily bulbs reaches its peak when the days start to lengthen and the soil begins to warm. In most regions, you can start your cannas indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost to get a head start on the season. Starting Canna Lily Bulbs Indoors walks you through the process.
To wake them up, remove the rhizomes from their storage boxes and give them a quick soak in lukewarm water for about an hour. Plant them in pots with fresh potting soil and place them in a warm, sunny window. Once the danger of frost has passed and the soil in your garden has warmed to at least 60°F, you can transplant them into their summer home. For placement basics, see How Deep to Plant Canna Lily Bulbs in the Ground.
If you prefer to plant directly into the garden, wait until the soil is warm. Cannas planted in cold, wet spring soil will sit dormant and may rot before they have a chance to sprout. Patience is key—once the heat of summer hits, those saved rhizomes will grow with incredible speed.
Conclusion
Successfully saving your canna lilies is one of the most practical and satisfying ways to improve your garden year after year. By paying attention to the signals of the first frost and providing a cool, dry place for your rhizomes to rest, you ensure that your landscape remains vibrant and lush without having to start from scratch each spring.
We take pride in providing the high-quality plants and the simple, honest advice you need to grow with confidence. Whether you are lifting a single prized plant or a whole border of tropical color, remember that gardening is a journey of learning and growth. Those quiet winter months when your bulbs are tucked away are just as much a part of the garden's story as the bright blooms of July.
Next Steps for Success:
- Mark your calendar for the average first frost date in your area so you aren't caught off guard.
- Gather your storage supplies, like cardboard boxes and peat moss, a few weeks early.
- Once spring arrives, visit our page on planting cannas to ensure your saved bulbs get the best start possible.
Saving your own bulbs is more than just a way to save money; it is a way to build a personal history with your garden, watching it grow and evolve through your own care and attention.
FAQ
Can I save canna lily bulbs without digging them up?
In USDA zones 8 and warmer, you can often leave cannas in the ground year-round. To protect them, cut the stalks back after the first frost and apply a thick layer of mulch—about 6 to 8 inches of straw or shredded leaves—to insulate the soil. However, in colder zones, the ground will freeze deep enough to kill the rhizomes, so lifting them is necessary for survival.
Should I wash the dirt off the rhizomes before storing them?
There is no single "right" answer, as it depends on your soil type. If your soil is loose, brushing it off is usually enough and reduces the risk of adding too much moisture. If you have heavy clay that sticks to the roots, you can rinse them, but you must ensure they are 100% dry before you pack them away in boxes, as trapped water leads to rot.
How do I know if my saved canna bulbs are still alive in the spring?
A healthy, living canna rhizome should feel firm to the touch, similar to a fresh potato. It should have some weight to it, indicating it still holds moisture. If the rhizome is brittle and snaps like a dry twig, or if it feels hollow and light, it has likely dried out too much. If it is soft, mushy, or smells bad, it has rotted and should be discarded.
Can I store my canna bulbs in the refrigerator?
While a refrigerator is cool and dark, it is generally not recommended for canna storage. Most refrigerators are too cold (around 35-38°F) and have very low humidity, which can cause the fleshy rhizomes to shrivel quickly. Additionally, some fruits and vegetables in the fridge release ethylene gas, which can damage the dormant eyes of the canna lily. A cool basement or garage is a much better environment.