Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Why Removing Canna Lily Bulbs is Important
- When to Remove Canna Lily Bulbs
- Essential Tools for the Job
- Step-by-Step: How to Remove Canna Bulbs for Storage
- The Curing Process: Why It Matters
- Best Practices for Winter Storage
- How to Remove Canna Lily Bulbs Permanently
- Dividing Canna Bulbs After Removal
- Removing Cannas Grown in Containers
- Simple Troubleshooting During Removal
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Introduction
There is nothing quite like the tropical flair that canna lilies bring to a summer garden. With their oversized, banana-like leaves and vibrant, torch-like flowers, they transform any backyard into a lush retreat. Whether you are growing tall, stately varieties with bronze foliage or dwarf types with bright yellow blooms, these plants are reliable performers that reward just a little bit of care with an explosion of color. For a quick shopping path, browse our Tall Cannas.
At Longfield Gardens, we want to help you keep that tropical beauty coming back year after year. Removing canna lily bulbs—which are technically known as rhizomes—is a vital part of the gardening cycle for many people. Depending on where you live and what your garden goals are, you might need to lift these bulbs to protect them from winter frost or to divide a large, happy clump that has outgrown its space. If you’re looking for a bright yellow option, try Canna Medium Banana Punch.
This guide will walk you through the simple process of removing canna lily bulbs from the ground or containers. We will cover the best timing for the job, the tools that make it easy, and how to handle the rhizomes so they stay healthy for the next growing season. By following these straightforward steps, you can ensure your cannas continue to be a highlight of your landscape. For smaller plantings, see our Short Cannas.
Why Removing Canna Lily Bulbs is Important
Gardening is all about working with the natural rhythm of your plants. Cannas are tropical by nature, which means they have different needs depending on the climate. Understanding why you are removing the bulbs helps you choose the right technique for your specific situation.
Winter Protection in Cold Climates
For those of us living in USDA hardiness zones 7 and colder, cannas cannot survive the freezing temperatures of winter in the ground. The soil gets too cold, and the moisture can cause the fleshy rhizomes to rot. Removing the bulbs in the fall is the standard way to "overwinter" them. By lifting them and storing them in a cool, frost-free place, you essentially put the plants into a safe nap until the spring sun warms the soil again. If you want to confirm your climate, check the Hardiness Zone Map.
Managing Overcrowding
Cannas are vigorous growers. A single rhizome planted in May can easily turn into a massive clump by October. Over time, these clumps can become so dense that the plants begin to compete with each other for nutrients and water. This often leads to fewer flowers and smaller leaves. Removing the bulbs allows you to divide them, giving the plants more room to breathe and giving you "free" plants to put in other parts of your yard. If you want a mid-size option, see Medium Cannas.
Relocating or Permanent Removal
Sometimes your garden design changes, and a spot that was perfect for a tall orange canna last year is now earmarked for something else. Removing the bulbs allows you to move your tropical favorites to a new home. In warmer climates where cannas stay in the ground all year, they can occasionally become a bit too enthusiastic. In these cases, removing the bulbs is the most effective way to thin out a patch or clear a space for new plantings.
Key Takeaway: Whether you are saving them from the cold or just making more room in the garden, removing canna bulbs is a straightforward task that keeps your plants healthy and productive.
When to Remove Canna Lily Bulbs
Timing is everything in the garden, and for cannas, the signal to start usually comes from the weather. You don't want to rush the process, as the plants use the late summer and early autumn to store up energy in their rhizomes for next year’s growth.
The First Frost Signal
In most regions, the best time to remove canna bulbs for storage is shortly after the first light frost of autumn. You will know it has happened when the lush green or bronze leaves suddenly turn black or brown and begin to wilt. This "blackening" tells you the plant has stopped growing for the season. While the foliage is damaged, the rhizomes underground are still perfectly safe.
It is best to wait for this frost because it signals the plant to move all its remaining energy down into the bulb. However, you should aim to get them out of the ground before a "hard freeze"—when the ground itself begins to freeze several inches deep. A light frost hits the leaves; a hard freeze hits the bulbs.
Timing for Warm Climates
If you live in a warm climate (Zone 8 or warmer) and are only removing bulbs to divide them, the timing is more flexible. Many gardeners choose to do this in late winter or very early spring before new growth starts. This allows you to clean up the garden and get the divisions back into the ground just as the growing season begins.
Watching the Soil
If a frost hasn't arrived but the weather is consistently staying below 50°F, the cannas will naturally start to yellow and die back on their own. If your local forecast predicts a long period of cold, wet rain, it is often better to remove the bulbs a little early rather than letting them sit in cold, soggy soil, which can lead to rot.
Essential Tools for the Job
You don't need a shed full of specialized equipment to remove canna bulbs. A few basic garden tools will make the process quick and prevent damage to the fleshy rhizomes.
- Garden Spade or Shovel: A sturdy spade is the primary tool for digging. A "D-handle" spade gives you good leverage for lifting heavy clumps.
- Garden Fork: A fork is often better than a shovel for loosening the soil around the bulbs without accidentally slicing through them.
- Pruning Shears: You will need these to cut away the heavy stalks and foliage.
- Garden Gloves: Canna stalks can be juicy and messy, and gloves protect your hands while digging in the dirt.
- Hose with a Spray Nozzle: Useful for gently washing away excess soil so you can see what you are working with.
- Crates or Cardboard Boxes: Essential for transporting the bulbs and for the initial drying phase.
Step-by-Step: How to Remove Canna Bulbs for Storage
When you are ready to lift your cannas for the winter, follow these steps to ensure the rhizomes stay in top condition.
Step 1: Cut Back the Foliage
Before you start digging, clear away the top growth. Use your pruning shears to cut the stalks down to about 3 to 4 inches above the soil line. Removing the bulky leaves makes it much easier to see where the base of the plant is and gives you a "handle" to hold onto later.
Step 2: Loosen the Soil
Canna rhizomes grow horizontally and can spread out further than you might expect. To avoid cutting into the bulbs, start digging about 12 inches away from the base of the stalks. Use your garden fork or spade to dig straight down into the soil all the way around the clump. Gently pry upward to loosen the root ball.
Step 3: Lift the Clump
Once the soil is loose, slide your spade under the center of the clump and lift. For large, established plants, the root ball can be quite heavy. If it feels stuck, don't force it; continue loosening the soil around the edges until the whole mass comes up easily.
Step 4: Shake and Clean
Lift the clump out of the hole and give it a gentle shake to remove large chunks of soil. At this stage, you can use your hands to pull away loose dirt. If the soil is heavy clay and sticks to the bulbs, a gentle spray from a garden hose can help wash it away. You don't need them to be "kitchen clean," but removing the bulk of the soil helps them dry faster and prevents soil-borne pests from coming indoors.
Step 5: Inspect for Health
Take a moment to look at the rhizomes. Healthy canna bulbs should be firm to the touch, similar to a potato. They are often white, pinkish, or tan inside. If you see any soft, mushy spots or areas that look like they are rotting, use a clean knife to trim those parts away.
What to do next:
- Label your bulbs by color or variety immediately using a permanent marker on the stalk or a tag.
- Keep different varieties in separate crates to avoid mix-ups in the spring.
- Move the cleaned bulbs to a shaded, dry area like a garage or porch for the next phase.
The Curing Process: Why It Matters
One of the most common mistakes in removing canna bulbs is putting them directly into storage while they are still wet. "Curing" is the simple process of letting the outer skin of the rhizome dry out and toughen up.
After you have removed and cleaned the bulbs, lay them out in a single layer on a piece of cardboard or in a plastic crate. Choose a spot that is dry, out of direct sunlight, and has good airflow. A garage, a shed, or even a covered porch works well.
Let the bulbs sit for about 3 to 7 days. During this time, the cut ends of the stalks will dry and "callus" over, and the outer skin of the rhizome will become a bit more leathery. This protective layer is the plant's primary defense against rot and dehydration during the long winter months.
Best Practices for Winter Storage
Once your canna bulbs are cured, they need a cozy place to spend the winter. The goal is to keep them dormant—neither growing nor rotting.
Choosing a Storage Medium
To prevent the bulbs from drying out completely (which can shrivel them) or staying too damp (which causes rot), we recommend packing them in a slightly moisture-retentive material. Common choices include:
- Peat Moss: Excellent for holding just enough moisture.
- Vermiculite or Perlite: Provides great aeration.
- Wood Shavings: Often used for animal bedding, these are inexpensive and effective.
- Newspaper: You can wrap individual large rhizomes in sheets of dry newspaper. For more storage tips, see Storing Canna Lily Bulbs Over Winter.
Temperature and Location
The ideal storage temperature is between 40°F and 50°F. If it gets much warmer, the bulbs might think it is spring and start to sprout prematurely. If it gets colder, they may freeze and die. A cool basement, a crawl space, or a "root cellar" environment is usually perfect. Avoid storing them near a furnace or in a spot that gets drafty.
Monitoring During Winter
It is a good habit to check on your stored cannas once a month. If you notice any bulbs starting to look shriveled and dry, give the storage medium a very light misting of water—just enough to add a hint of humidity. If you find a bulb that has started to rot, remove it immediately so the decay doesn't spread to its neighbors.
How to Remove Canna Lily Bulbs Permanently
While most gardeners want to save their cannas, there are times when you need to remove a patch permanently. Perhaps they have become too crowded, or you are redesigning your landscape. Because cannas grow from sturdy rhizomes, simply cutting them down won't stop them from coming back.
The Thorough Digging Method
The most reliable way to remove cannas permanently is to dig them up as described above. However, when the goal is elimination, you must be more meticulous.
- Remove the main rhizomes: These are the thick, fleshy parts.
- Don't worry about the "hair" roots: You may notice many thin, stringy roots growing off the rhizomes. These thin roots do not contain the "eyes" or nodes necessary to grow a new plant. If you miss a few thin roots, they will simply decompose in the soil.
- Sift the soil: If you want to be 100% sure, run a garden rake through the area after digging to catch any small pieces of rhizome that may have broken off. Any piece of rhizome with a "node" or "eye" can potentially start a new plant.
Starving the Plants
If digging is physically difficult, you can kill off a patch by "starving" it. This involves cutting the foliage to the ground every time it appears. Without leaves to perform photosynthesis, the rhizome will eventually exhaust its stored energy and die. This takes patience and consistency, but it is effective over the course of a single growing season.
Smothering
For a large area, you can cover the patch with a heavy-duty tarp or several layers of cardboard topped with mulch. This blocks all light and eventually kills the root system. This method is best started in late spring when the plants are trying to grow.
Dividing Canna Bulbs After Removal
Removing the bulbs is the perfect time to multiply your collection. Dividing cannas is very similar to dividing iris or ginger roots. At Longfield Gardens, we find that dividing every 2–3 years keeps the plants vigorous and the blooms plentiful. For a step-by-step refresher, see How to Split Canna Lily Bulbs.
Identifying the "Eyes"
Look closely at the cleaned rhizome. You will see small, pointed bumps or swellings, often reddish or white. These are the "eyes," and each one is a potential new stalk.
Making the Cut
Use a clean, sharp knife to cut the rhizome into sections. Each piece should have at least two or three healthy-looking eyes and a good portion of the fleshy root attached. Smaller pieces may take longer to reach flowering size, while larger clumps will give you a bigger show in the first season.
Post-Division Care
If you are dividing in the fall before storage, let the cut ends dry and callus for an extra day before packing them away. If you are dividing in the spring, you can plant the pieces directly into pots or the ground once the soil has warmed.
Removing Cannas Grown in Containers
If you enjoy growing cannas in large pots on your patio, the removal process is even simpler. You have two main options for winter:
- The "Dormant Pot" Method: Cut the stalks down to the soil level after the first frost. Move the entire container into a cool, frost-free area like a basement. Stop watering entirely. The soil in the pot will act as the storage medium. In the spring, you can pull the clump out, divide it, and refresh the soil.
- The Standard Removal Method: If you need your pots for winter evergreens or pansies, simply tip the pot over and slide the root ball out. Shake off the potting mix and follow the standard cleaning, curing, and storage steps used for in-ground plants. For a ready-made container idea, see Container Collection Caladium Carolyn Whorton & Canna Tropicanna Black.
Key Takeaway: Container-grown cannas are often easier to manage because the potting soil is looser than garden soil, making the lifting process a breeze.
Simple Troubleshooting During Removal
Even with the best care, you might run into a few questions while removing your bulbs.
"I accidentally sliced a bulb with my spade."
Don't worry! Cannas are quite resilient. If you slice a rhizome, simply make a clean cut to remove the jagged edges. Let the piece cure thoroughly so the wound calluses over. As long as there is an "eye" elsewhere on the piece, it will likely grow just fine.
"The bulbs look really small."
If your cannas didn't grow much over the summer, the rhizomes might be small. This usually happens if the plant didn't get enough sun, water, or fertilizer. You can still save them, but they may need an extra year of care to return to their full, flowering glory. If the bulbs look really small, see How to Care for Canna Lily Bulbs for more growing tips.
"There is white fuzz on my stored bulbs."
This is usually a sign of mold caused by too much moisture or poor airflow. Remove the affected bulbs, wipe off the mold, and let them air dry for a day. Replace your storage medium with fresh, dry material and ensure the storage area isn't too damp.
Conclusion
Removing canna lily bulbs is a rewarding part of the gardening season that ensures these tropical showstoppers return to your garden year after year. By paying attention to the weather and following a few simple steps to dig, clean, and cure your rhizomes, you protect your investment and set the stage for an even more beautiful display next summer.
At Longfield Gardens, we believe that gardening should be a source of joy and relaxation, and our 100% Quality Guarantee is part of that promise. Taking the time to care for your bulbs in the autumn is a great way to wrap up the growing season and look forward to the promise of spring. Whether you are storing them away or sharing divisions with a neighbor, the process is easy and achievable for gardeners of all levels.
Next Steps for Success:
- Wait for that first frost to signal the end of the season.
- Dig widely to keep those fleshy rhizomes intact.
- Give them a few days to cure before tucking them away for winter.
- Check your storage area to make sure it stays cool and dry.
Ready to plan next year's tropical paradise? Explore our selection of premium canna lilies and other summer-blooming bulbs to find the perfect colors for your garden, starting with Canna Tall Tropicanna.
FAQ
Can I leave canna bulbs in the ground if I mulch them heavily?
In USDA Zones 8 and warmer, cannas can usually stay in the ground year-round with a layer of mulch for protection. In Zone 7, they may survive a mild winter with heavy mulching, but it is a risk. For anyone in Zone 6 or colder, the ground will freeze deeply enough to kill the rhizomes, so they must be removed and stored indoors. If you're ordering replacements ahead of time, check our Shipping Information page for zone-based timing.
Do I need to wash the bulbs with soap or bleach?
No, plain water is all you need to remove excess soil. Using soap or harsh chemicals can damage the living tissue of the rhizome. If you are concerned about fungal issues, some gardeners lightly dust the bulbs with sulfur powder before storage, but for most home gardens, proper curing and dry storage are more than enough to keep them healthy.
How long can canna bulbs stay out of the ground?
Canna rhizomes are designed to survive a dormant period. When stored properly in a cool, dark place, they can stay out of the ground for 5 to 6 months without any issues. However, they should not be left out in the open air for months at a time, as they will eventually shrivel and lose their viability.
Why didn't my canna bulbs bloom after I replanted them?
If your cannas didn't bloom after being removed and replanted, it is usually due to environmental factors rather than the removal process itself. Cannas need at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sun and consistent moisture to produce flowers. If the rhizomes were stored in a place that was too warm, they might have exhausted their energy before planting, so keeping them cool during dormancy is key. For a broader overview of planting and care, read All About Cannas.