Introduction
Growing dahlias is one of the most rewarding experiences a gardener can have. There is a unique thrill in watching a brown, potato-like tuber transform into a towering plant covered in intricate, colorful blooms. Whether you are looking for massive dinnerplate varieties or charming little pompons, the journey begins with sourcing the right starting material.
At Longfield Gardens, we enjoy helping people discover the sheer variety of shapes and colors these dahlias offer. Getting your hands on high-quality tubers is the first step toward a summer filled with fresh-cut bouquets. This guide is for anyone ready to bring these stunning flowers into their landscape, whether you are starting your very first garden or adding to a growing collection.
We will cover the best ways to find healthy tubers, how to tell a good one from a dud, and how you can even get more tubers for free from the plants you already have. For a broader overview, see our All About Dahlias guide. By understanding a few simple basics about tuber quality and timing, you can set yourself up for a successful and vibrant growing season.
Choosing the Best Source for Your Tubers
When you are looking for dahlia tubers, you generally have three main paths: buying from online retailers, visiting local garden centers, or sourcing from specialty flower farms. Each option has its own benefits depending on what you are looking for in your garden.
Shopping with Online Retailers
Online retailers are often the best choice for gardeners who want a wide selection. Because these companies work with large-scale growers, they can offer dozens or even hundreds of different varieties. This is where you will find the specific colors or flower shapes you might have seen on social media or in gardening magazines.
When you order online from us, your tubers are typically reserved months in advance. We coordinate our shipping schedule with the weather in your specific area. This ensures your plants arrive when the ground is ready for them. It is a convenient way to plan your garden during the winter months so you are ready to hit the ground running in spring.
Visiting Local Garden Centers
Your local nursery or "big box" store will often carry dahlia tubers in late winter and early spring. These are usually sold in bags with colorful labels. The advantage here is that you can get them immediately and start "pre-sprouting" them indoors if you want an early start.
However, local selections are often limited to the most common varieties. You may find a generic "red decorative" or cactus dahlia rather than a specifically named cultivar. If you are just looking for a splash of color and aren't picky about the exact name, this is a quick and easy way to get started.
Sourcing from Specialty Farms
Small-scale flower farms often sell their surplus tubers in late winter. This is a fantastic way to find rare or "collector" varieties that aren't grown in large enough quantities for big retailers. These growers often have a deep personal knowledge of how each variety performs.
Keep in mind that these sales are often very competitive. Because quantities are small, popular varieties can sell out within minutes of a website opening. If you go this route, it helps to join their email lists so you know exactly when the sale begins.
Key Takeaway: For the widest variety and most convenient planning, online retailers are ideal. For immediate planting of common colors, check your local nursery. For rare "unicorn" varieties, look to small specialty farms.
Identifying High-Quality Dahlia Tubers
Not all tubers are created equal. Since the tuber holds all the energy the plant needs to sprout and grow its first leaves, you want to start with the healthiest material possible. When you receive your order or pick out a bag at the store, look for three specific parts: the eye, the neck, and the body.
The Importance of the "Eye"
The eye is the most critical part of a dahlia tuber. It is a small bump or growth point located on the "crown" of the tuber, which is the area where the tuber connects to the old stem. Without an eye, a tuber will never grow, no matter how large or healthy it looks.
In early spring, eyes can be very hard to see. They often look like a tiny, dormant pimple. As the weather warms, they may begin to swell or even send out a small green shoot. If you are buying tubers in person, look for that tiny bump to ensure the tuber is viable.
Checking the Neck and Body
The neck is the thin part that connects the main body of the tuber to the crown where the eye lives. It is important that the neck is firm and unbroken. If the neck is snapped or "wobbly," the connection between the energy source (the body) and the growth point (the eye) is severed, and the tuber likely won't grow.
The body of the tuber should feel firm, like a fresh potato. It is normal for tubers to have some surface wrinkles, especially after being stored over the winter. However, they should not feel mushy or completely dried out and hollow. A little bit of shriveling is fine; as soon as the tuber hits moist soil, it will plump back up.
Size Doesn't Always Matter
One common misconception is that a bigger tuber produces a bigger plant. This isn't necessarily true. Different varieties naturally produce different-sized tubers. Some of the most spectacular dinnerplate dahlias grow from small, skinny tubers, while some smaller pompon varieties produce huge, chunky ones. As long as the tuber has a healthy eye, a solid neck, and a firm body, it has everything it needs to succeed.
What to do next:
- Inspect your tubers as soon as they arrive.
- Gently feel the neck to make sure it is solid.
- Look for a small bump (the eye) near the top.
- Store them in a cool, dark place until you are ready to plant.
Understanding Timing and Shipping
Timing is everything when it comes to getting dahlia tubers. Because they are tropical plants native to Mexico and Central America, they are very sensitive to cold temperatures. If they are planted in cold, wet soil too early, they may rot before they have a chance to grow.
When to Place Your Order
Most dahlia retailers open their "online doors" in the winter, often between January and March. Even though you won't be planting for several months, it is best to get your order in early. The most popular colors and shapes always sell out first. If you want to check your climate first, use the Hardiness Zone Map.
By ordering early, you "claim" your tubers. The retailer will then hold them in a climate-controlled environment until the danger of frost has passed in your specific region.
The Shipping Schedule
We ship orders based on the USDA hardiness zone of the delivery address. This is a system that helps us determine when it is safe to send live plants through the mail without them freezing in transit or sitting in a garden that is still covered in snow. For more details, see our Shipping Information.
Typically, shipments begin in late March for the warmest parts of the country and continue through May for the northernmost states. We aim to have your tubers arrive about two weeks before the ideal planting time for your area. This gives you a little time to inspect them and prepare your garden beds.
Regional Variations
It is important to remember that weather is unpredictable. If a late-season cold snap hits, shipping might be delayed by a week or two to protect the plants. Patience is part of the process. While it is tempting to want your tubers as early as possible, waiting for the right "window" of warmth ensures your plants start off strong and healthy.
How to Get More Tubers Through Division
If you already have dahlias growing in your garden, you have a built-in source for new tubers every year. A single tuber planted in the spring will grow into a large "clump" by the autumn. This clump can be divided into several individual tubers, each of which will grow into a brand-new plant the following year. If you want a step-by-step refresher, see How Do You Dig Up and Store Dahlia Bulbs?.
When to Lift Your Dahlias
In most parts of the United States, dahlia clumps need to be "lifted" (dug up) in the fall if you want to save them. This usually happens after the first frost has turned the foliage black. The frost tells the plant to go dormant and sends all the remaining energy down into the tubers.
After the foliage dies back, wait about a week, then carefully dig up the clump. Be sure to dig wide around the plant to avoid slicing through the tubers with your shovel.
Tools for the Job
You don't need fancy equipment to get more tubers. A few simple items will do:
- A garden fork or shovel for digging.
- A hose to wash off the soil so you can see what you are doing.
- A sharp pair of snips or a small serrated knife.
- A permanent marker to label the tubers (this is a step many people skip and later regret!).
The Steps for Dividing
Dividing can feel a bit like a puzzle, but it is a very satisfying task. The goal is to separate the clump so that every piece you cut off has at least one "eye."
- Clean the clump: Use a gentle stream of water to wash away all the dirt. It is much easier to see the eyes and necks when the tubers are clean.
- Find the eyes: Look at the crown of the clump (the part where the tubers meet the main stem). You are looking for those small bumps or growth points.
- Make your cuts: Using your sharp tool, carefully cut a tuber away from the main stem. Ensure you include a piece of the "crown" with it, as that is where the eye is located.
- Inspect the cut: Check that the neck is intact and the tuber is firm.
- Label immediately: Write the variety name directly on the skin of the tuber with a permanent marker. This ensures you won't have any "mystery" plants next year.
Key Takeaway: Dividing is the most cost-effective way to expand your garden. One healthy plant can often yield 3 to 5 viable tubers for the next season.
Growing from Seed vs. Tubers
While most people get dahlias as tubers, you can also get them by sowing seeds. However, there is a big difference in what you will get at the end of the season.
The Surprise of Seeds
Dahlias are genetically complex. If you plant a seed from a "Cafe au Lait" dahlia, the resulting flower will almost certainly NOT look like its parent. It might be a different color, a different shape, or a much smaller size. Growing from seed is like a lottery; you never know exactly what you will get, which can be part of the fun.
Seeds are a great way to get a lot of plants for very little money. They are often grown as "bedding dahlias" and are usually shorter with simpler flowers.
The Consistency of Tubers
Tubers are clones of the parent plant. When you get a tuber for a specific variety, you are getting an exact genetic copy. If you want that specific, perfect shade of coral or a specific "ball" shape, you must get a tuber.
Another benefit of tubers is that they grow much faster than seeds. Because the tuber is a storage organ full of energy, the plant can hit the ground running as soon as the soil warms up, leading to earlier blooms.
Preparing to Receive Your Tubers
Once you have decided how to get your dahlia tubers and placed your order, there are a few things you can do to get ready for their arrival. Preparation makes the planting process much easier and more enjoyable.
Soil Preparation
Dahlias love "rich" soil that drains well. "Drainage" simply means how fast water leaves the soil. If water sits in a puddle for hours after a rain, the soil might be too heavy (like clay), which can make tubers unhappy. For a full planting refresher, see How to Plant and Grow Dahlia Tubers: A Step-by-Step Guide.
You can improve your soil by mixing in some compost or well-rotted organic matter. This helps the soil hold onto the right amount of moisture while allowing the excess to drain away.
Selecting the Right Spot
Dahlias are sun-worshippers. To get the most flowers, you should choose a spot that gets at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day. If they are planted in too much shade, the stems will become "leggy" as they stretch for the light, and they won't produce as many blooms.
Gathering Your Supplies
Before your tubers arrive, make sure you have what you need:
- Stakes: Tall dahlias can get heavy and catch the wind. It is best to put a stake in the ground at the time of planting so you don't accidentally poke a hole through the tuber later.
- Labeling stakes: Even if you marked the tubers, having a sturdy stake in the garden helps you keep track of what is where.
- Trowel or shovel: For digging the planting holes. For more staking tips, see our How to Pinch and Stake Dahlias.
What to do next:
- Choose a sunny spot in your yard.
- Mix some compost into the soil to improve drainage.
- Buy your stakes now so you are ready to plant as soon as the weather is right.
Getting a Head Start: Pre-Sprouting
If you live in a region with a short growing season (like the northern US), you might want to get a "head start" on your dahlias. This is a simple process where you encourage the tubers to start growing indoors before it is warm enough to plant them outside. For a fuller timing guide, see When Should I Plant Dahlia Tubers? Best Planting Guide.
The Potted Method
About four to six weeks before your last frost date, you can tuck your tubers into pots filled with slightly damp potting soil. You don't need large pots—just enough to cover the tuber. Place the pots in a warm, bright spot, such as near a sunny window or under a grow light.
Do not overwater them at this stage! Since there are no leaves yet, the plant isn't "drinking" much water. Too much moisture can cause the tuber to rot. Just keep the soil barely damp.
Transplanting
Once the weather has warmed up and the risk of frost is completely gone, you can move these started plants into the garden. Because they already have a root system and a few leaves, they will often bloom several weeks earlier than tubers planted directly into the ground.
Realistic Expectations for Your Tubers
While we provide the highest quality tubers at Longfield Gardens, it is important to remember that gardening involves living things and changing environments. Success depends on a combination of the tuber's health, your soil, and the local weather. Our 100% Quality Guarantee is part of that promise.
The Role of Weather
Sometimes, even the best tuber might be slow to sprout if the spring is unusually cold and wet. Dahlias wait for the soil to reach about 60°F before they really start to move. If your tubers don't show green shoots right away, don't worry. They are likely just waiting for a few more days of sunshine to warm their "toes."
Performance Variation
Every garden has its own "microclimate." A variety that grows five feet tall in a neighbor's yard might only reach four feet in yours if your soil is different or you have slightly more shade. This variety is part of the charm of gardening. Over time, you will learn which types of dahlias love your specific spot the most.
Pests and Nature
As your tubers grow into beautiful plants, they might attract a few visitors like slugs or aphids. This is a normal part of a healthy garden ecosystem. Most of the time, a strong plant can handle a few nibbles. If you see a lot of activity, a simple spray of water from the hose or a visit from local ladybugs usually keeps things in balance.
Storing Your Tubers for Next Year
Once you have successfully grown your dahlias, you will likely want to keep them for the following year. Getting tubers for "free" through storage is a favorite tradition for many gardeners. For a full end-of-season walkthrough, see How Do You Dig Up and Store Dahlia Bulbs? A Simple Guide.
The Drying Process
After you have lifted and divided your clumps in the fall, let the tubers sit in a shaded, dry area for a day or two. This allows the skin to "cure" or toughen up slightly, which helps prevent them from rotting or drying out too fast during the winter.
Choosing a Storage Medium
To keep tubers happy over the winter, they need a "Goldilocks" environment: not too wet, and not too dry. Most gardeners store them in boxes or bins filled with one of the following:
- Pine shavings: The kind used for animal bedding.
- Vermiculite: A mineral that helps regulate moisture.
- Peat moss: A classic choice that keeps tubers cozy.
The Ideal Temperature
Store your bins in a cool, dark place that stays between 40°F and 50°F. A basement, an insulated garage, or a root cellar are usually perfect. If the area gets too warm, the tubers might try to sprout too early. If it freezes, the tubers will turn to mush and won't survive.
Check on your tubers once a month during the winter. If they look very shriveled, you can give them a tiny mist of water. If any look soft or mushy, remove them immediately so they don't affect their neighbors.
Key Takeaway: Winter storage is the secret to a "forever" dahlia garden. With a little care, the tubers you get today can be the ancestors of a huge garden years from now.
Conclusion
Getting dahlia tubers is the start of a wonderful summer adventure. Whether you choose to order unique varieties from us at Longfield Gardens or decide to divide your own clumps in the autumn, the process is straightforward and deeply rewarding. By focusing on quality indicators like a healthy eye and a firm body, and by timing your planting with the warmth of the sun, you can ensure a season filled with incredible color.
Remember that gardening is a journey of discovery. Every tuber you plant is a chance to learn something new about your soil, your climate, and the amazing resilience of plants.
- Plan early: Order your favorite varieties in winter to beat the rush.
- Inspect quality: Look for the eye, the neck, and the body.
- Time it right: Wait for warm soil before planting outdoors.
- Multiply your joy: Divide your clumps in the fall to get more tubers for free.
Starting with high-quality tubers is the easiest way to ensure your garden is the talk of the neighborhood. With a little patience and the right sunlight, those humble-looking tubers will soon become the stars of your summer landscape.
FAQ
What should I do if my dahlia tuber has no visible eye?
Don't worry if you don't see an eye immediately, as they can be very dormant in early spring. You can place the tuber in a warm, bright spot for a week or two to see if an eye "wakes up" and swells. If it remains firm and the neck is solid, it is likely still viable and just needs a bit more warmth to show its growth point.
Is it better to get big tubers or small ones?
The size of the tuber does not determine the size of the flower or the eventual height of the plant. Small tubers can produce massive dinnerplate blooms, while large tubers might belong to a compact border variety. As long as the tuber is firm, has an intact neck, and a healthy eye, it will grow into a beautiful, full-sized plant.
When is the best time to buy dahlia tubers?
The best time to buy is usually in late winter (January through March) when online retailers and specialty farms open their stores. This gives you the best selection of varieties before they sell out. If you want to see current options, browse our Dahlia Collections.
Can I get dahlia tubers from the flowers I cut for vases?
You cannot grow a new tuber from a cut flower or a leaf. To get more tubers, you must either buy new ones or wait until the end of the growing season to dig up and divide the "clump" that has formed underground. Each plant naturally multiplies its tubers over the course of a single summer.
